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Coolant change/bleed - bandit 1250s

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Tonyg1987
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 18 Feb 2017
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PostPosted: 19:54 - 17 Jul 2020    Post subject: Coolant change/bleed - bandit 1250s Reply with quote

Hey guys, just wondering if my bandit engine is made from magnesium alloy? I've noticed a lot of these coolants all say not compatible with this type of metal.
Also, can someone help walk me through the bleeding process.
I've never done it before and would prefer not to cause any damage to my bike. Any tips, or how to's on this particular bike would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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xX-Alex-Xx
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Joined: 12 Sep 2019
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PostPosted: 20:30 - 17 Jul 2020    Post subject: Re: Coolant change/bleed - bandit 1250s Reply with quote

Tonyg1987 wrote:
Hey guys, just wondering if my bandit engine is made from magnesium alloy? I've noticed a lot of these coolants all say not compatible with this type of metal.
Also, can someone help walk me through the bleeding process.
I've never done it before and would prefer not to cause any damage to my bike. Any tips, or how to's on this particular bike would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.


What does it sat to use in the owner's manual? Go with that ....

I've just posted a page from the GSR-750 service manual in another thread, but the bleeding process will be the same.

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=330946
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 00:24 - 18 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is the procedure I use. You might use some of these steps to augment the procedure posted by xX-Alex-Xx
1: Inspect all cooling system hoses before you start. Look for hardened hoses, bulging hoses, soft, weak spots, cracks, or damage caused by overtightened hose clamps.
2: Drain coolant into a 6 to 8 quart capacity container. Loosen drain screw (usually on or near the water pump), then remove pressure cap. Then completely remove the drain screw and direct the coolant into your pan.
3: Remove plastic surge tank (overflow tank) and pour out the coolant. Clean if necessary.
4: Replace defective cooling system components found during inspection.
5: Install surge tank. Install drain screw using a new copper washer.
6: Premix your coolant to the appropriate concentration of antifreeze/water. Use a hydrometer to determine the concentration and therefore freeze point and boiling point.
7: Slowly pour coolant into the system until full. Too much enthusiasm can cause air to become trapped in the recesses of the water jacket. Do it slowly. Don't forget to fill the surge tank to between the lower and upper limit levels.
8: Rock the bike side to side to free trapped air. Top off the coolant.
9: Start engine. The coolant level may drop as the water pump circulates the coolant. Top off the coolant.
10: Replace the pressure cap.
11: Run engine until the thermostat opens. It will achieve that point when the hose going to the top of the radiator becomes hot.
12: Shut down the engine and allow to cool for several hours. When cool, remove pressure cap and top off coolant.
13: Take the bike for a ride around the block. Upon return, check the system for leaks, especially around any parts you replaced during service. After the engine cools, check the coolant level and top off if necessary. If the system is working as designed, the surge tank level will fluctuate slightly, but engine coolant will always be right up to the level of the pressure cap. When the pressure cap goes bad, more often than not it will force excess coolant into the surge tank and out the overflow. That is the classic sign of a defective pressure cap.

NEVER EVER REMOVE THE PRESSURE CAP FROM A HOT ENGINE. Hot scalding coolant can permanently disfigure your attractive mug, and you could suffer the consequence of that mistake for the rest of your life. I know a guy who was off work for 6 weeks when he pressure cooked his hands by removing the cap off a hot radiator. BEWARE.
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Robby
Dirty Old Man



Joined: 16 May 2002
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PostPosted: 12:20 - 18 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bandit engine will just be normal aluminium alloy. Magnesium alloys are more expensive, and rarely used.
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Nobby the Bastard
Harley Gaydar



Joined: 16 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: 17:29 - 18 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
Bandit engine will just be normal aluminium alloy. Magnesium alloys are more expensive, and rarely used.



Would have thought magnesium alloy would be exotic race engines and not standard blandit engines.
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Robby
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PostPosted: 19:38 - 18 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes. Seems to get used a few lightweight motocross bikes. Often seems to be a bit of a gimmick. Slightly lighter crankcases is all well and good, but it doesn't do anything for the weight of all the hardened steel inside.
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 22:17 - 18 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am frequently amused at the lengths some people go to lighten their bikes by a pound or two. For that kind of weight to make a measurable effect on your riding, you would need the skills of Marquez or Rossi.
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xX-Alex-Xx
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PostPosted: 07:26 - 19 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

jeffyjeff wrote:
I am frequently amused at the lengths some people go to lighten their bikes by a pound or two. For that kind of weight to make a measurable effect on your riding, you would need the skills of Marquez or Rossi.


Met a bloke once who was asking about drilling holes in his frame to save weight. Totally bog standard R6 except for a slip on exhaust, hadn’t even consider wheels etc. Was even more amusing as he was about 5 foot nothing and 18 stone Rolling Eyes Laughing
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sickpup
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Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 10:50 - 22 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
Yes. Seems to get used a few lightweight motocross bikes. Often seems to be a bit of a gimmick. Slightly lighter crankcases is all well and good, but it doesn't do anything for the weight of all the hardened steel inside.


The RK has Magnesium covers and a 1 kilo lighter crank among other things. Sometimes it all makes sense.
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redeem ouzzer
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Joined: 06 Oct 2015
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PostPosted: 12:14 - 22 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

jeffyjeff wrote:
I am frequently amused at the lengths some people go to lighten their bikes by a pound or two. For that kind of weight to make a measurable effect on your riding, you would need the skills of Marquez or Rossi.


As a friend of mine says - "if it isn't doing two jobs why is it there?"

Apply the "for speed, add lightness" philosophy religiously and it does make a difference.

Case in point - i converted my YR5 to a GPS speedo over winter, but as I had to take the front hub apart to service the brake over the weekend I took the opportunity to remove the speedo drive mechanism. Few ounces and a fair bit of drag, gone.
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Robby
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PostPosted: 12:16 - 22 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, it has its place on a bike where you're trying to reduce the weight everywhere and prepared to pay for it. It still strikes me as one of the last places to try to lose weight - somewhere sprung, near the centre of gravity, and low down. Also an expensive way to lose weight - going from fairly lightweight alloy to very lightweight alloy.
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 14:16 - 22 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Forced wrote:
I took the opportunity to remove the speedo drive mechanism. Few ounces and a fair bit of drag, gone.

How will you measure your increase in performance, now that your instrumentation is gone?
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redeem ouzzer
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PostPosted: 14:40 - 22 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

jeffyjeff wrote:

How will you measure your increase in performance, now that your instrumentation is gone?


As i originally said, it's not about doing one thing - it's the mentality when applied across the entire bike.
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