Home tyre changes

[The Tot]

I've been deliberating as to whether or not to pull my finger on the trigger and start doing my own tyre changes. Between my R1 and Fazer, I tend to go through 2 sets of tyres per year on each bike.

I'm constantly remounting and mounting tyres quite frequently on my enduro and downhill mountain bikes, but 190 section tyres are a different kettle of fish.

So if any of you do your own changes, what kit you've been using. I can get my tyres mounted for a tenna at my local tyre place but they don't do motorcycle tyre balancing. Not that it'll be an issue since I'll be using a kit that converts your paddock stand to wheel balancer.

I was considering using the Motion pro tyre levers and bead breaker

https://www.dirtbikexpress.co.uk/images/products/15653_med.jpg

or the Pro Works Tyre Machine once it's back in stock

https://pierce-images.imgix.net/images/8/8/7/8/8878f627e3b28b5cabcef3cdb23789715c10b7a2_2_PW_GTM_B_0_01.PNG?h=1200&auto=format&q=50&fit=crop&bg=F0F1F2&fm=jpg&auto=compress&w=1200

Secondly, what's the minimum compressor flow rate that is recommended to bead the tyre. Has anybody seated their tyres using a dual cylinder foot pump. I'm approaching this from a convenience and excuse to get my hands dirty and tinker point of view rather than short term cost savings. The missus would like to convert the old tyres into flower beds and hanging baskets in a section of our garden.

My local tyre shops are only 3 miles away and I get on well with them, but I'd want the convenience of doing an evening job, fettling in the garage.
____________________
The Tot 2019 Z1000SX - 2007 R1
Never argue with autism

[doggone]

There are ways to get the initial seal, I have used a ratchet strap round the circumference several times, but some lube is your best friend.
The most difficult part at home is breaking the bead, with low profile tyres you might have barely two inches to work on.
The tool you suggest looks much better than my techniques which have involved a big vice, door jambes, spades and running over with another vehicle

[The Tot]

Most of the youtube tutorials have gone with full blown tyre soap, so that's what I'll be using. In hindsight, I could have probably done with using some of that stuff when doing downhill tyres on my neighbour's bike!

I've also seen spades and wooden stakes hammered in with a mallet, and yes, reversing into it. G also suggested warming the tyres up in tyre warmers, or failing that, hair driers if you can't leave them out in the sun.

I'm also going to assume that your petrol station forecort compressor won't be much cop either when it comes to beading the tyre.
____________________
The Tot 2019 Z1000SX - 2007 R1
Never argue with autism

[doggone]

It probably will if you take the valve out, air can rush in quicker.
You can take it up to well above normal full pressure if need be to pop it out fully.
Then smartly screw the valve in before it all comes out, but it would be unlikely to drop off even if it did.

[Riejufixing]

[Nobby the Bastard]

For the sake of £18 a wheel I'll let someone else do them.
____________________
trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Triumph Sprint ST 1050

[yen_powell]

Buzzetti levers (the long ones are good). Had mine for about 20 years now. They are very good for not pinching inner tubes and when I switched to tubeless they carried on doing good work. Note I am talking about the long ones, I use three, I have the short ones as well, bought them for carrying on the trail but I am not a fan.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/BUZZETTI-Professional-Lever-Dismantling-Tyres/dp/B077JXQL3X
____________________
Blackmail is a nasty word........but not as nasty as phlegm!
XT1200Z and a DR350 in bits

[The Tot]

I was looking at something from MAX2H.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCSvbI6Nqb_DM5FgYf3kpscQ

They also had something similar from XLmoto too. If that's the consensus, I probably won't mind investing in it, since it would probably pay for itself after a season of riding.

I think the only outstanding question is compressor tank volume and pump capacity. Will I get away with a 24L that delivers >8CFM or would a 50L reservoir be required to bead the tyre with the valve core removed? On my tubeless downhill casing tyres, I've got a booster reservoir on my track pump that I can get to 100PSI (probably about 1L volume) that I use to bead the rims, but I don't know what the equivalent volume/pressure would be. Obviously will have other uses for the compressor in and around the house.

I guess for me, it's the satisfaction of doing things done myself, even if it means perseverance and swearing, so that I can sort out my mates out for tyre changes too. I'm already the go to mountain bike mechanic on my estate for tyres and drivetrain and suspension setting.
____________________
The Tot 2019 Z1000SX - 2007 R1
Never argue with autism

[ThatDippyTwat]

Used the Motion Pro ones without issue on everything from tiny 90/90's on a YBR to a 300 thing on a custom V-Max. Usual things apply, rim protectors, lube bead up, good compressor to seat bead.
____________________
'98 VFR800 (touring) - '12 VFR800 Crosrunner (Commuting) - '01 KDX220 (Big Green Antisocial Machine)

[steve the grease]

Changing cold tyres in cold weather is a nightmare, in comparison, warm rubber falls off the rim and is lovely and flexible whether removing or fitting. As everyone else has said - considerations around breaking the bead, nipping tubes, getting the tyre to seal , etc all apply.

Get a big tub of tyre fitting paste and split it with your mates- its like 12 quid for 5kg enough to fitt half a dozen resealable ice cream tubs.
____________________
All the above is my personal opinion, you can see my lips move, but I'm talking out of my arse.
I've been riding, and fixing , bikes for 50 years, in that time the more I learn, the less I am absolutely sure of.....

[oilyrag]

Having done it I don't think it's worth the effort and you end up with a stack of used tyres to get rid of.

[Mr Hammers]

I've used this to change about a dozen tyres, saving me about £120 so far. Off ebay for £75, so it's easily paid for itself. Nice to not have the hassle of taking the wheel down to the tyre shop, or being limited to their opening hours.

https://www.planetash.net/bcf/tyrechanger.jpg

Had to bolt it to a paving slab as i haven't anywhere solid to bolt it to, which stops it from spinning around when levering off/on the tyres.

Before i do another i'll be welding some better, wider fingers on it, as the existing ones tend to scrape the rim if it's not in tight enough and the wheel moves, but apart from that it does a reasonably good job. The arm is a bead breaker that works very well too.
____________________
A Guide To Powerbands

[Riejufixing]

[doggone]

[Robby]

It's one the very few jobs I still outsource, although I do my own tubes crossplies on the 250. To do tubeless tyres properly requires spending a fair amount on quite bulky kit that rarely gets used, and probably cocking it up and scratching rims when I'm learning. Then I need to be confident that I haven't done it wrong.

On an R1, no, I'd take that to a tyre shop. Also helps that my local tyre shop is FWR in Kennington, who are cheap.

[Pigeon]

Have tried spoon style levers and big 450mm jobbies.

But have easier success with 240mm motox levers like these

Get 3.

Rim protectors are often quite thick (for good reason). A plastic bottle does the job a bit easier as its thinner, but will move about.

Bead breaker. If you have another bike, can use sidestand while sitting on bike.
I did get one of these though
Works well enough, but fairly cheaply made.

Wheel balancer works well.

Fairly liquid makes the job much easier.

I've managed to inflate all tyres just using a twin piston foot pump.
But might have used a cheap 250psi ebay compressor on one set thinking about it.


Spent £100. Changed 6 tyres. Then decided, it wasn't worth the slips and dings in the rim. Or the time.


If you have a shop that close, that charges that little. I'd stick with it.
But if you want to save money over years of changing tyres, then

[sickpup]

Tubeless tyres especially radials regardless of size are the easiest tyres to change by hand. I learnt to change tyres by hand and did so for many years until I got a tyre machine.
In fact a 190 section 17" tire is pretty much the easiest of all tyres to fit by hand and will likely only require a tyre lever for the last part of the 2nd side.

All you need is a bead breaker, tyre lube, 2 spoon type tyre levers, 3 rim protectors and a decent compressor.

[colink98]

[droog]

I've got the MAX2H EVO2 tire changer - I got one last year and have mounted two sets of tires with it.

I'm a beginner so my unmounting/mounting attempts with the EVO2 were not as fast and slick as the guy in the MAX2H video but the tires mounted successfully.

I'm pleased I bought it, as it was definitely satisfying and interesting doing the job myself and I guess it will have paid for itself at some point.

Tire soap is an absolute must and as mentioned unmounting/mounting tires is much easier if they are warm - unmounting/mounting stone cold tires can be an absolute bitch even with a machine like the EVO2.

I successfully seated the tire beads with a twin barrel foot compressor (take the valve out as mentioned). Final job was balancing the tires.

[A100man]

Its a job I hate but I persist because I'm mean. I only do teh tubed tyres on my 550 and 250 the worst bit is trying to feed the valve stem in (lots of trapped an bruised fingers) then trying to make sure the bead sits properly 'circular'. That said I have tyre fitters not do tat properly too. 75 quid for a tool seems cheap if it works well and doesn't scratch teh rims
My local place used to be 12 quid (10 plus dreaded) but last time it was 18 quid which is a but tall IMO.
____________________
Now: A100, GT250A, XJ598, FZ750

Then: Fizz, RS200, KL250, XJ550, Laverda Alpina, XJ600, FZS600

[yen_powell]

[Riejufixing]

[droog]

[Fizzer Thou]

I have been changing tyres on my road and dirt bikes for countless years using the Michelin type levers and rim protectors.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Apico-Michelin-Type-Motocross-MX-Enduro-Motor-Bike-Tyre-Lever-15-380mm/293120881254?epid=1749052963&hash=item443f5db266:g:X34AAOSwJRxbT3ny

The bead breaker is the ABBA type,using a course threaded bar to wind down onto the sidewall of the tyre without any problem,when used in conjunction with a good lathering of tyre soap.

As for balancing,I use a very similar one to what Pigeon/Steve has used but with the addition of an additional tool from Demon-Tweeks for more finely balancing of the front wheel

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Motorcycle-Wheel-Balancer-Balancing-Stand-Bike-Motorbike-Race-Track-Paddock/303195787047?hash=item4697e08f27:g:-PEAAOSw6o9dC7aP

I would say that the larger devices used by other forumites are all very well if you have somewhere to keep them when not in use.My compressor is widely used for many other operations other than inflating tyres,so has been a worthwhile investment.

Although I do have some local places that charge anything up to and including £25 per tyre,they were not open the other year the day before the Mayday Run down to Hastings when I got a puncture.I had a spare new rear tyre so it took about one hour to change and be back on the road before riding a few miles to meet friends and to scrub the tyres in before the big ride.
____________________
Just talk bikes.What else is there?

Always have a 'Plan B'

[Bhud]