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Presta valves annoyingly fiddly

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thx1138
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PostPosted: 13:06 - 08 Sep 2021    Post subject: Presta valves annoyingly fiddly Reply with quote

Got a flat tyre on roadie the small portable pump doesn't push on it screws on. This same pump is fine with my schwabe mtb tyres

But with the pump on Presta setting every time I unscrewed pump, it removed the core and all the air wooshed out.

Anyway, I got another portable bicycle pump kicknig about that cllips on, so far so good, but it's rather bulky.

How do I stop these stupid valve thingies coming out?
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Ste
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PostPosted: 13:16 - 08 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get a better pump that's less bulky. Razz
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thx1138
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PostPosted: 13:18 - 08 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just spent my money on a swanky new track pump Crying or Very sad
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Ste
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PostPosted: 13:29 - 08 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Go tubeless?
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ThunderGuts
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PostPosted: 14:50 - 08 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Having never come across this problem before, funnily enough the other weekend this happened to a friend while we were out cycling. I think the crux of the issue is a screw on type pump is, by definition, not a good design when it's screwing onto something that itself can come undone!

I'd get a new pump. I have a Road Morph G. Frame mount for it puts it in place of a bottle cage. Not particularly heavy, has a little flip out footstand (tiny but effective) and extendable hose. Clip on fitting to the valve like a track pump. Little in-line gauge and can pump to 120+ PSI so enough for road bike tyres. Had mine for years and years and it still works perfectly.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 20:41 - 08 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is why I like mountain bikes: Schrader valves or GTFO. If someone would care to inform me of the the superiority of Presta valves I'm all ears Middle Finger
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 20:54 - 08 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've never had an issue with any pumps with either type.

All our mountain bikes have Presta valves btw. Admittedly they all cost a least a grand new though.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 21:49 - 08 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Smaller hole equals stronger rim.
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Ste
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PostPosted: 00:02 - 09 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

They are the boring reasons about stuff like presta valves are slightly easier to inflate, having a lockring on the valve is useful, they're better at high pressures than schrader valves and other such marginal differences but the real reason is that presta valves need a smaller hole drilled in the rim than schrader valves do.

I like Lezyne pumps for anything when a track pump can't be used. But as good as they are, tubeless is still preferable. Razz
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 00:13 - 09 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Smaller hole equals stronger rim.


Says Wreck-it Ralph... Laughing
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 01:07 - 09 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Smaller hole equals stronger rim.


Less of your Saturday nights and more bicycles Wink

Ste wrote:
They are the boring reasons about stuff like presta valves are slightly easier to inflate, having a lockring on the valve is useful, they're better at high pressures than schrader valves and other such marginal differences but the real reason is that presta valves need a smaller hole drilled in the rim than schrader valves do.


tl;dr gay race bike stuff.
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Ste
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PostPosted: 01:35 - 09 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
I've never had an issue with any pumps with either type.

Thinking

Other people have had problems when using your pumps.

Laughing
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 08:59 - 09 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ste wrote:
Nobby the Bastard wrote:
I've never had an issue with any pumps with either type.

Thinking

Other people have had problems when using your pumps.

Laughing


That was the tyre, not the valve.
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weasley
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PostPosted: 13:36 - 09 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

IIRC there’s a brand that’s notorious for this - Continental maybe?
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 18:09 - 09 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Could you threadlock the core in? I can't remember EVER having a need to remove a presta valve core. in fact, I wasn't even aware they were removable. I think some of them aren't.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 19:34 - 09 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Last year, I got one of those mini pumps from Zefal with the lever mechanism and it works great. It fits in my ''tool bottle'' and can do 7 BAR (101.5 PSI), which is more than enough for my road bike.

I also carry one of those presta to schrader valve adaptors in my wallet, so I can use schrader valve pumps when needed. I got it manybe 20 years ago and still have it. Before I got the mini pump, this adaptor saved me many times and I still use it everynow and then. With this you can use whatever air pump. Thumbs Up

This thing.
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thx1138
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PostPosted: 22:24 - 09 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Could you threadlock the core in? I can't remember EVER having a need to remove a presta valve core. in fact, I wasn't even aware they were removable. I think some of them aren't.


well, as it happens, I got another flat on a different bike last night on a club ride changed the tube in a farmers field in the dark, with little fuss, and I noticed this tube didn't have a removable core, so I gonna get more of those Thumbs Up
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Ste
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PostPosted: 22:53 - 09 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could buy more inner tubes or you could go tubeless. Wink
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thx1138
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PostPosted: 23:37 - 09 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ste wrote:
You could buy more inner tubes or you could go tubeless. Wink


well I marsahlled at a TT on the A1, and a guy running tubeless still got a flat, and are they not a PITA to then fix? Confused
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Ste
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PostPosted: 12:59 - 10 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

You've got to get a fairly big puncture for the sealant to not immediately seal the hole!! But if are unlucky enough to get a puncture that's too big for the sealant then you've got several options.

You can use a tubeless repair kit thing that's similar to what would be used for motorcycle tyres. https://muc-off.com/products/puncture-plug-repair-kit

You can spend a bit more on that repair kit and get one that fits inside the ends of your handlebars. https://muc-off.com/products/stealth-tubeless-puncture-plug

Or if you're wanting to repair it quickly then something along the lines of this is much faster to use. https://www.notubes.com/dart With one of those and CO2 cartridges to reinflate the tyre, you should be going again before you even know it.

If you end up having to put a tube in then it's slightly messy because of the sealant in the tyre but they're all biodegradable or similar so the mess isn't going to do anything bad.

Once you've run tubeless, you won't go back to running tubes.

The fact your rims are drilled for schrader valves is a bit of a problem though. Laughing
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 13:50 - 10 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ste wrote:
You could buy more inner tubes or you could go tubeless. Wink


How often do you replace the sealant inside the tyres?
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Zen Dog
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PostPosted: 15:35 - 10 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ste wrote:
Once you've run tubeless, you won't go back to running tubes


I have, and I have.

Bike was tubeless when I got it. Had slow punctures. One went flat and it was a PITA to reinflate as I don't have a compressor. Horrible gunk inside the tyre too. Stuck tubes in since I had them anyway. No problems since. Thumbs Up

Don't really understand the advantage of tubeless unless you're racing and you want to save a few grams.
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Ste
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PostPosted: 15:53 - 10 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

RhynoCZ wrote:
How often do you replace the sealant inside the tyres?

Running the standard Stans sealant I top it up about every six months if using the amount of sealant the bottle says to use for your tyre size or about every twelve months if you're more generous with how much sealant you put in.

How often the sealant needs topping up depends on which sealant you're using; you can get ones which are good for the life of the tyre and you can get ones which need topping up every few months.

Zen Dog wrote:
I have, and I have.

Bike was tubeless when I got it. Had slow punctures. One went flat and it was a PITA to reinflate as I don't have a compressor. Horrible gunk inside the tyre too. Stuck tubes in since I had them anyway. No problems since. Thumbs Up

Don't really understand the advantage of tubeless unless you're racing and you want to save a few grams.

Over time tubeless tyres do lose pressure. You don't need a compressor, you just need a half decent track pump.

You don't get slow punctures with tubeless because as the wheel is spinning the sealant seals the puncture. If the previous owner hadn't put the tape on properly then that could explain the 'slow puncture'.

The advantages of tubeless are that you're far less likely to ever get a puncture.

It's a bit of an old video but this shows how well the sealants work. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FTlZvOVG8zs
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 15:58 - 10 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think you should just make life as fiddly and difficult as possible and fit tubs.
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