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C0rruptd0wnl0...
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PostPosted: 14:24 - 03 Jun 2022    Post subject: Suzuki gsx s125 Reply with quote

So I'm seeking advice.

I have a suzuki gsx s125 2017 gp, the issue I'm facing is the bike losing power and dieing after a short distance (has led to some rather long walks home pushing it).. I originally believed the issue to be the stator not charging the battery, however I have now replaced the stator, and still the same issue continues.

With a freshly charged battery, the bike starts and runs. There is a whine on the engine on acceleration and deceleration. The bike will run until it has drained the battery, and then starts to die a slow death. The abs light flicks up on the speedo to start with, even at 50mph, it will then slowly dim out as the bike seems like its starved for fuel and then seems to be misfiring, upon which gears no longer show on the speedo. Then engine then cuts out after a cough and splutter. All of this happens within 5 to 10 minutes. I've also noticed I no longer have low or high beam lights even when at full battery, the light on the speedo doesn't light up at all when switching between them or touching the yellow pass button..

Unfortunatly I am self taught with all of my mechanic ability and electrical knowledge, and this is leaving me stumped. A friend of mine thinks it could be the cdi. I thought to hit a forum and see if you beautifully minded people could advise before I go spending a lump of money on a new cdi.

Thank you in advance
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 14:31 - 03 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

The battery should last more than 10 minutes before it's flat.

Are you actually checking the voltage on the battery? Have you checked to see if the voltage goes up to 14-15V when the engine is running?

It sounds more like the HT coil is breaking down when hot.
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C0rruptd0wnl0...
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PostPosted: 14:35 - 03 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
The battery should last more than 10 minutes before it's flat.


My apologise, I should've been more specific in that sense. The bike will last for 14 miles before all of what I have stated begins to happen.
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Bhud
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PostPosted: 14:49 - 03 Jun 2022    Post subject: Re: Suzuki gsx s125 Reply with quote

As you will have noticed from replacing the stator, replacing stuff isn't the way to go. It's all about diagnosing and testing things, until you've absolutely determined the cause of the fault.

Is it correct to say that you get all the lights and everything back, and the bike runs for 14-15 miles, when the battery is fully charged with a trickle/smart charger?

Have you checked your fuse box with regard to the indicator dash lights and headlight?
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C0rruptd0wnl0...
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PostPosted: 14:54 - 03 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, apart from the whine on acceleration and deceleration everything does come back, apart from the high beam and high beam indicator.

And I have been through the fuses and all seem to be okay and not blown.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 15:02 - 03 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

C0rruptd0wnl0ad wrote:
Yeah, apart from the whine on acceleration and deceleration everything does come back, apart from the high beam and high beam indicator.

And I have been through the fuses and all seem to be okay and not blown.


The headlight problem Indicates that there's a further problem. It should work with a full battery.
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C0rruptd0wnl0...
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PostPosted: 15:13 - 03 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:


The headlight problem Indicates that there's a further problem. It should work with a full battery.


The bit that baffles me some, is that in idle both the low beam and high beam flicker as they should, but as soon as revs, its gone completely.

I do apologise for the lack of knowledge I possess.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 15:20 - 03 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Buy a meter!
for less than £20 you buy one that can save you lots of time and money
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C0rruptd0wnl0...
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PostPosted: 15:22 - 03 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
Buy a meter!
for less than £20 you buy one that can save you lots of time and money


I've done just that today, however due to shops being shut in my area due to the jubilee, its been ordered online, so now waiting on delivery.
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C0rruptd0wnl0...
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PostPosted: 07:52 - 06 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I've got my multimeter now. What's the best way to go about diagnosing the problem?
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Robby
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PostPosted: 08:38 - 06 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Set it to DC volts. Connect to the battery.

With the bike all turned off, you should be seeing 12.5-13v. That's the voltage of a healthy, charged battery.

With the engine idling it should be around 13v, and stable. If the voltage is dropping, it isn't charging.

With the engine at 4000rpm (ish) it should be around 14.5v and stable. Generally if the charging system is knackered, you will see 12v and falling at this point.

If it isn't charging and you already replaced the stator, next common point of failure is the regulator/rectifier. Don't buy a £10 one on ebay, they're shit. If you're going to get a pattern part rather than genuine Suzuki, get it from someone reputable like Wemoto. More chance of it working, and you can return it if it doesn't work.
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 08:39 - 06 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

C0rruptd0wnl0ad wrote:
So I've got my multimeter now. What's the best way to go about diagnosing the problem?

If you can follow directions , and if you can set up your meter to read voltage and continuity, this flow chart is a pretty good place to start.
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C0rruptd0wnl0...
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PostPosted: 17:26 - 06 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay, thank you guys. I'm gunna give it a try and see where it all gets me..
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C0rruptd0wnl0...
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PostPosted: 10:09 - 08 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
Set it to DC volts. Connect to the battery.

With the bike all turned off, you should be seeing 12.5-13v. That's the voltage of a healthy, charged battery.

With the engine idling it should be around 13v, and stable. If the voltage is dropping, it isn't charging.

With the engine at 4000rpm (ish) it should be around 14.5v and stable. Generally if the charging system is knackered, you will see 12v and falling at this point.



So I checked the battery before putting it on the bike last night, I was at 12.5v. Once I'd put it on the bike it dropped to 12.2v, started the bike up and had the engine idling it dropped to 12v, with 5k rpm it dropped down to 11.8 and then climbed back to 12 and kept fluctuating between the 2 readings.

From everything I've checked following the flow chart, everything is pointing to the RR, so I've ordered a genuine suzuki rr for the bike. It arrives Friday, so I will post whether it has resolved my issue.. Thank you for all your time guys, youve been very helpful
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 10:17 - 08 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

It could well be the stator so I'd check the output from that before youi assume the RR.
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C0rruptd0wnl0...
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PostPosted: 18:15 - 08 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
It could well be the stator so I'd check the output from that before youi assume the RR.


I do hope it's not the stator, as I've already replaced that with a new part before coming to this forum.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 19:07 - 08 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

In that case I'd check the output from the rrr first after disconnecting it from the loom just to check that the loom isn't the issue.
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C0rruptd0wnl0...
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PostPosted: 19:27 - 10 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, it would seem it is now fixed.. I replaced the rectifier.. And now the battery is pulling a solid 14v while running. Thank you guys for all your help!!
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