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Stupid Question - Camshaft Removal

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Zen Dog
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PostPosted: 19:05 - 24 Jul 2022    Post subject: Stupid Question - Camshaft Removal Reply with quote

As part of the work I'm doing on the VFR 750, I'm doing the valve clearances, and I need to get the camshafts out to measure the shims. In the haynes manual, the procedure for doing this for the rear cylinders (1 and 3) is to set the engine to the TDC mark on cylinder 1, and then undo the bolts and remove the camshafts.

But when I set the engine to this position, the camshaft lobes for cylinder 1 are facing outwards (as you'd expect) and the timing marks on the cam gears are horizontal as they should be, but the lobes for cylinder 3 are one up and one down. You can see this in the pic below, which shows cylinder 3.

https://i.imgur.com/416azw7.jpg

Won't this mean that the intake camshaft on 3 (which is the one with the lobe pointing downwards), will have the valve spring pressure applied to it, potentially damaging the bolts/camshaft carrier when I try to remove it? Am I missing something? Or is that how it's supposed to be?
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Current - '94 VFR750FR (Dead), '00 VFR800FI, 2011 CBF125 Previous - '10 Street Triple R, '92 MZ ETZ301, '05 TTR250, NSR125R, KMX125, "Honda" Win (chinese copy of an old Honda design with a C90 engine)
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to v or not to v
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PostPosted: 19:13 - 24 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

have a look here, might be of help?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O5JXMiKv6zc
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 22:38 - 24 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Probably need to turn it another 360 degrees. You'll likely be on TDC on the exhaust, not compression stroke.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 01:42 - 25 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think you check the clearance before pulling the shafts.
The clearance may still be within tolerance.

I know triumph 955i require a tool to push the shims down to slide the shaft out.
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Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN.
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Nutty
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Joined: 16 Jan 2021
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PostPosted: 06:52 - 25 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

once you have TDC on #1 cylinder and T1 mark in place measure the clearances , for cylinder 3 turn the crankshaft 180 degrees and align the T3 mark, for cylinder 2 turn the crankshaft 270 degrees and align T2 on the crank, for cylinder 4 turn another 180 degrees and align T4 on the crank . all rotations in the clockwise direction
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Zen Dog
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PostPosted: 09:16 - 25 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

to v or not to v wrote:
have a look here, might be of help?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O5JXMiKv6zc

It's all a bit different (chain driven, VTEC nonsense etc.) but he does specifically mention that the valve springs will be applying pressure to the camshaft, so I think that I'm probably worrying unnecessarily, and I just need to make sure I relieve the pressure on the camshaft carrier evenly. Cheers!
stinkwheel wrote:
Probably need to turn it another 360 degrees. You'll likely be on TDC on the exhaust, not compression stroke.

See above, but will try this. I'd rather relieve all pressure if I can so I'll give it a go, but I suspect the result after doing it is going to be that Cyl3 will now have the exhaust lobe down and the intake lobe up.
MCN wrote:
I think you check the clearance before pulling the shafts.
The clearance may still be within tolerance.

You do. I have. And it's not. I'm onto the next stage of adjusting them now.
Nutty wrote:
once you have TDC on #1 cylinder and T1 mark in place measure the clearances , for cylinder 3...

Yep, that's the procedure for checking the clearances, but I've done that and they're in need of adjustment, so this is now about getting the camshafts out so I can measure the shims (and calculate appropriate replacements).
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Current - '94 VFR750FR (Dead), '00 VFR800FI, 2011 CBF125 Previous - '10 Street Triple R, '92 MZ ETZ301, '05 TTR250, NSR125R, KMX125, "Honda" Win (chinese copy of an old Honda design with a C90 engine)
My bike trip around S.E. Asia 2010/2011
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Nutty
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Joined: 16 Jan 2021
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PostPosted: 10:22 - 25 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Same as before rear cylinder to T1 on crank and remove bolts in a criss-cross manner and evenly , then same for the front but with T2 on crank , making sure that number 1 piston is on compression stroke , and the same for T2 with cylinder 2 on compression stroke when you do that, holder pin bolts are different length so separate them front and back
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 10:36 - 25 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Zen Dog, think about it this way; when #1 is on TDC compression stroke (which it is in your photograph), #3 cannot possibly have both its valves unloaded. If it did, it would also be somewhere on the compression stroke. Your engine in the photograph is indeed in the position to remove the forward bank camshafts. Be careful and methodic, and remove the bolts evenly to minimize stress on the cam caps. You'll be OK.

My 5th gen cams were a little different than yours in that the gears were on the right side of the cylinders and there were one-piece cam caps for both intake and exhaust. I was pretty anal about checking the valves at the 16000 mile intervals; I think I did four valve checks on my '98 and one on my 2000.

I found it difficult to get to and tighten the band clamps around the rubber isolators that hold the throttle body in place. To make the job easier, I replaced the phillips head screws with allen head screws, and fabricated an extended allen wrench to get in there and tighten them down. Worked a treat.
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 10:39 - 25 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another quick recommendation. Check and record the shim dimensions on all your valves. In the future, when you measure a valve that is out of specification, you will know which shim dimension you need to correct the clearance before removing the cam.
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Zen Dog
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PostPosted: 20:42 - 25 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

jeffyjeff wrote:
Another quick recommendation. Check and record the shim dimensions on all your valves. In the future, when you measure a valve that is out of specification, you will know which shim dimension you need to correct the clearance before removing the cam.


That is a very good suggestion. I wasn't going to bother removing the intake camshaft for 1 and 3 (they're all within tolerance) and taking measurements for those, just the exhaust ones, but I've done both now. Just need to store them somewhere I'll be able to find them in 16,000 miles... Thinking

They both came out and went back in fine btw, I just had to be careful when tightening the intake camshaft as the camlobes meant it naturally wants to be tilted.
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Current - '94 VFR750FR (Dead), '00 VFR800FI, 2011 CBF125 Previous - '10 Street Triple R, '92 MZ ETZ301, '05 TTR250, NSR125R, KMX125, "Honda" Win (chinese copy of an old Honda design with a C90 engine)
My bike trip around S.E. Asia 2010/2011
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