Torque vs. Speed - changing sprockets

[Easy-X]

After dropping off the XSR this weekend I followed up with a ride out on the Husky which was nice given the weather. I'm still enamoured by the latter's lightness - both weight and handling - so I've resolved to go "all in" on its continual refinement.

I'm considering the value of changing out the sprockets. Maybe I go up 4 or so teeth on the rear but that also means a new chain with more links. The alternative is drop a tooth on the front but does that lead to excessive chain wear?
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Royal Enfield Continental GT 535, Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[MarJay]

There is a minimum number of teeth you're supposed to have on a front sprocket to prevent extra chain wear. Going down one tooth on most bikes is fine, but it depends on the number of teeth it currently has vs the new size (and presumably the size and pitch of the chain).
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British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.

[blurredman]

Front sprocket is cheaper too
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CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S, 1979 MZ TS150.
Current: 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 18k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 10k, 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (295cc) - 40k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 50k.

[Easy-X]

For reference the 401 is 15T front, 45T rear, 520 chain, 112 links.

I'll give a 14T a go. The downside is 14T and smaller don't have the rubber noise dampening ring thingy. Probably due to the locking nut screw holes.
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Royal Enfield Continental GT 535, Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter