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to v or not to v
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PostPosted: 12:28 - 20 Jul 2023    Post subject: clutch slip Reply with quote

replaced the friction plates and springs with genuine parts on the Thunderace but still getting clutch slip at higher revs.
its not consistent, sometimes worse than others. clutch is hydraulic not cable.
when i replaced the plates the whole clutch looked in fairly good condition to me, the metal plates were fine and unmarked, friction plates and springs well within their limits. clutch basket was a bit notched and i filed it smooth, which made getting into neutral a lot smoother on reassembly.

where should i look next?
i have heard theres a tiny fluid return hole in the clutch reservoir which can block causing mild slip?
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 12:52 - 20 Jul 2023    Post subject: Re: clutch slip Reply with quote

to v or not to v wrote:
i have heard theres a tiny fluid return hole in the clutch reservoir which can block causing mild slip?

That is called a "compensating port", and indeed a restricted port could impede the clutch from fully engaging. When you bleed the hydraulic circuit, you should see fluid squirt out of that port. Release the clutch lever slowly and be careful, ham fisted operation of the clutch lever can cause fluid to forcefully eject from the port. Brake fluid on your tank can ruin the paint job.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 13:02 - 20 Jul 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've seen these 'bleed ports'get clogged on older bikes
braking systems so its a possibility I suppose.
Same cylinder on a clutch.

Found this simple diagram and added the Deflector part which is found in lot of them
It's just a spring plate to stop fluid squirting back all over the place if the brake is operated when the cover is off
when bleeding for instance.

It's easy enough to check pressure is being released by observing it to see if fluid rushes/flows back into the reservoir when the lever is released.
It's worth mentioning the slave cylinder could be getting stiff/sticky as well of course.

https://imgur.com/dA2Uq1Y.jpg
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 14:56 - 20 Jul 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it's hydraulic, I presume it'll have a long pushrod going through the engine between the slave cylinder and clutch centre? If it does, check it for rust binding on seals and make sure it's straight by rolling it on a sheet of glass.
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to v or not to v
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PostPosted: 17:56 - 20 Jul 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

push rod is fine and no sign of corrosion around the slave cylinder.
how would i go about cleaning/unblocking the return hole in the reservoir?
do i have to remove it and use brake cleaner?
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 18:22 - 20 Jul 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd whip the master cylinder cover off work the clutch and observe first as we're not certain of the cause.

The brake fluid should be utterly clean and you should be able to see the effect of returning fluid disturb the fluid in the reservoir when you release the lever.
If it all looks fine then a blocked return hole may not be the cause
( does the piston fully retract?)
On old bikes I've seen particles n shit which I assumed were degraded seals so new seals and a fluid flush was called for.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 18:24 - 20 Jul 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is there any adjustment procedure to go through after replacing the plates?
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 18:27 - 20 Jul 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not with a hydralic clutch, aside from pumping it a couple of times, which the failure to do would not cause it to slip.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 20:38 - 20 Jul 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Not with a hydralic clutch, aside from pumping it a couple of times, which the failure to do would not cause it to slip.


Well yes, now I come to think about it it's just the reverse of a disk brake. Now I feel a bit dumb Smile
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 20:41 - 20 Jul 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy-X wrote:
Now I feel a bit dumb Smile



It took that for you to feel like that?
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to v or not to v
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PostPosted: 06:21 - 21 Jul 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
I'd whip the master cylinder cover off work the clutch and observe first as we're not certain of the cause.

The brake fluid should be utterly clean and you should be able to see the effect of returning fluid disturb the fluid in the reservoir when you release the lever.
If it all looks fine then a blocked return hole may not be the cause
( does the piston fully retract?)
On old bikes I've seen particles n shit which I assumed were degraded seals so new seals and a fluid flush was called for.


followed your advice and whipped the cover off this morning. my ham fisted first grab of the lever sent fluid squirting out of the reservoir!
it looked like it was coming from the smaller of 2 holes, a pin sized one farthest from the brake lever. the larger hole i can see the piston moving through.
i couldnt see any movement in the fluid when releasing the lever though.

the bottom of the reservoir was quite dirty so i soaked up the the fluid then gave it a good wipe around with clean tissue which came away quite black looking at first.
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blurredman
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PostPosted: 07:31 - 21 Jul 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is it possible the fluid line (if a soft flexy at any point) could be swolen internally not letting fluid return at a fast enough rate?
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 07:47 - 21 Jul 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

The pipes on my brothers brakes managed to break down internally and started to work as a one way valve so it is possible.

Yes, we both thought that the person who suggested it was talking bollocks but it fitted the symptoms and replacing the pipes fixed the problem.
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to v or not to v
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PostPosted: 08:03 - 21 Jul 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

its braided line on the bike but it is 25+ years old
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 12:11 - 21 Jul 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

25+ years old and dirty fluid
This may not be the cause of the clutch slipping but
you my want to do a bit of shopping here
The clutch Master and Slave cylinder repair kits are pretty cheap

https://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/yzf_1000_r_thunderace/98
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to v or not to v
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PostPosted: 17:08 - 21 Jul 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

i was hoping it would be something simple Neutral
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 19:32 - 21 Jul 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Could be as simple as the oil you are using. Energy Conserving motor oils have friction modifiers that can cause clutch slip in wet clutches.
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to v or not to v
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PostPosted: 19:37 - 21 Jul 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

using the recommended oil. currently Mobil, was Castrol before that.
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to v or not to v
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PostPosted: 19:39 - 21 Jul 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

new master/slave rebuild kits on their way, hopefully this will fix things.
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doggone
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PostPosted: 21:19 - 21 Jul 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

With my old bandit 1200 it was a little push rod by the front sprocket would get gunked up and sticky - that was what physically activated the clutch and intermittently it would not let the plates engage properly when you released the (hydraulic) clutch.
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to v or not to v
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PostPosted: 07:15 - 22 Jul 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

had the push rod out when i changed the plates last year. everything was clean and in good condition.
the bike is only used in good weather.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 12:13 - 22 Jul 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Like Jeff I also wondered if a bit of the old friction modifiers had crept in somewhere, you mention Mobil and Castrol but are you sure it was pukka
Motorcycle oil?
I've heard of people getting some clutch slip when trying fully synth
and this was on bikes with far less torque than yours

25 years is high time for a clutch hydraulics service and its not expensive
so hopefully does the trick
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to v or not to v
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PostPosted: 12:21 - 22 Jul 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

the Castrol was from Halfords so i would hope it was genuine. the Mobil from an ebay shop. also had Silkolene in there but binned it and changed
to Mobil just to test if it was the oil causing slippage, before i changed the plates.
all were the manufacturer recommended motorcycle oils for my bike.
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blurredman
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PostPosted: 10:26 - 23 Jul 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Yes, we both thought that the person who suggested it was talking bollocks but it fitted the symptoms and replacing the pipes fixed the problem.


I also doubted this too when it occured on the rear of my car. But taking off the flexible pipe it was completely without a hole. Thankfully I had changed the drums/shoes/cylinders not long before so no drum wear lip hindered me for inspection.
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CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S, 1979 MZ TS150.
Current: 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 18k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 10k, 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (295cc) - 40k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 51k.
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