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SRAD 600 cuts out when hot - won’t start until cooled down

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alan0259
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Joined: 25 Aug 2010
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PostPosted: 06:59 - 13 Jun 2024    Post subject: SRAD 600 cuts out when hot - won’t start until cooled down Reply with quote

Hi all,

Picked up a 600 SRAD project, it fires up perfect (full choke on) and idles perfect (choke off) for around 8 minutes, then it starts to sound a bit groggy and will eventually cut out (temp on dash shows around 90 degrees).

The bike will just about start again (straight away) if I give it lots of throttle and keeping the starter button pushed in, but it just wants to die again straight away.

Checked the battery voltage, it’s 12.8 when turned off, goes to 17v when running (no lights on), drops to 14v with headlights on.

When it struggles to start when hot, the starter motor seems to turn over like a snail, really sluggish (battery boost pack attached helps slightly but still super slow and won’t fire up).

I’ve tried it with and without the airbox. I’ve checked the tank fuel pipes for any kinks, I’ve tried running the bike with the fuel cap off, nothing makes a difference.

Unsure if it’s fuel / electrical, can’t see it being mechanical as it sounds so healthy when cold and starts perfect when cold.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.
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mattsprattuk
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PostPosted: 08:13 - 13 Jun 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

17v is too much. Try a different reg/rec
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Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!! Mr. Green
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith
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Nobby the Bastard
Harley Gaydar



Joined: 16 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: 10:03 - 13 Jun 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

The excess voltage (and Im not convinnced it is that excessive) whilst running will not be a factor when its not running.
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virus
World Chat Champion



Joined: 16 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: 18:36 - 13 Jun 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

check to see if its got a good spark, both hot and cold.

check to see what the plugs look like.

Drain all 4 float bowls after it cuts out and see if the same volume of fuel is there as should be.

Have you tried bumping it cold/warm to see how well it wants to start then?
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mattsprattuk
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PostPosted: 01:07 - 14 Jun 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
The excess voltage (and Im not convinnced it is that excessive) whilst running will not be a factor when its not running.


It most certainly could be. misinformation like this is the reason forums suck so hard for advice. 17v at idle is probably in the 20s when the revs are up. Battery is also probably toast as a result of this.
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Blue_SV650S wrote: it was a sh1te wheelie, but it proves that he can get it up in 3rd and can do angles. In summery, mattsprattuk is a gobby little sh1tebag, dopehead tw4t, but sadly for all of us, he probably isn't THAT full of sh1te!! Mr. Green
Kickstart wrote: Hi I tend to agree with Matt. All the best Keith
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 06:36 - 14 Jun 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

The regulator being at fault wouldn't result in the bike starting fine when cold but not starting when hot.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 06:54 - 14 Jun 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
The regulator being at fault wouldn't result in the bike starting fine when cold but not starting when hot.


Depends how hot the coils are getting with the overvoltage.

Sluggish starter on a hot restart sounds like the battery is less than happy with this state of affairs too. The fact it's turning over but slowly suggests all the parts of the starter system are working so there's either a power supply issue or something causing increased mechanical resistance to the starter turning. We have already established there's a problem with the power supply if it's charging at 17v so it makes sense to look into this first.

EDIT: Be interesting to try a hot restart with the booster pack only (battery disconnected) or a different battery and see if it turns over at normal speed.
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P.
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Joined: 14 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: 07:15 - 14 Jun 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

17v into a battery isn't good, cooked my SV one at about 17, sudden smell of eggs and a very swollen battery. Low 14s is all of everything want, the rest of the wiring and kit might not like being 17+.

Also I saw you mentioned idling, even whilst moving and being covered in plastic, it's still going to have some air flow over or near the coils, minimal but still. Not saying ride it cos battery going pop under your nuts wouldn't be fun, but wonder if you experience the issues with it then, or whether they break down faster being under actual use.
Change reg rec, make sure you see high 13 low 14 at the battery then would replace battery. If you are near me I can probably provide a reg rec, have a box full
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alan0259
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Joined: 25 Aug 2010
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PostPosted: 15:22 - 14 Jun 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

I’ve just put another rectifier on it, it’s now around 13.5v when it’s running and the headlights going on don’t affect it

Sadly still cuts out after 10 mins though. Will check for spark another day when I get chance

Thanks for the comments so far
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 15:42 - 14 Jun 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your ignition coils are breakiing down when they get hot.
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