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Suzuki TS50 will not start

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Farmingstock
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Joined: 17 Jun 2016
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PostPosted: 20:12 - 03 Jun 2024    Post subject: Suzuki TS50 will not start Reply with quote

As title says I cannot get the thing to start, the plug is constantly dry, fuel is getting to the carb fine, just not getting to the cylinder, all jets and pathways in carb are clear, tried an auxiliary tank, brand new plug, kicked over hundreds of times it’s not started once, reeds are fine, no cracks and seal fine., plenty of compression!

If I put fuel into the cylinder it still doesn’t start!
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A100man
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PostPosted: 12:15 - 04 Jun 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Squirt soem carb cleaner into the intake (or EasyStart) at least you can then eliminate timing if it starts.
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c_dug
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PostPosted: 14:06 - 04 Jun 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a TS50x as my first bike, long time back now.

Mine also wouldn't start, and confusingly despite it being a kick start the thing that made the difference was a new battery - worth checking yours?
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blurredman
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PostPosted: 15:10 - 04 Jun 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

c_dug wrote:
Mine also wouldn't start, and confusingly despite it being a kick start the thing that made the difference was a new battery - worth checking yours?



Indeed- kick start doesn't necessarily mean 'self-exciting'.


We don't know what specific year or variation of TS50 this is?
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CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S, 1979 MZ TS150.
Current: 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 18k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 10k, 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (295cc) - 40k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 51k.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



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PostPosted: 15:46 - 04 Jun 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

How do you know the crank seals are fine?
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Farmingstock
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PostPosted: 18:02 - 04 Jun 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Took the carb of completely and squirted some carb clean into the intake, (not ideal but the bike was a none runner and I’m almost cured of it now) the bike didn’t start as such just popped over like it was misfiring, I have taken the flywheel off to checked the woodruff key all seems fine, however the stator looks like it’s on the very limit counter clockwise, there are no markings to centre it up, but looks like it’s way to advanced, the screws are of course threaded and won’t loosen so I’m going to have to order an impact driver! Tried hitting the end of a screwdriver whilst turning it but no joy!

There is plenty of spark on the brand new plug, so no battery issue as I’m kicking it over, compression is fine, so fuel or timing related, I’m guessing timing as the spray only caused a pop/ran for under a second!
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Farmingstock
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PostPosted: 18:17 - 04 Jun 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

It’s a TS50X 1984
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 18:27 - 04 Jun 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

As a 2T the only timing is on the ignition. If electronic there is no timing adjustment available typically, if points the adjustment is on the poinnts gap.
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Farmingstock
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PostPosted: 19:21 - 04 Jun 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
As a 2T the only timing is on the ignition. If electronic there is no timing adjustment available typically, if points the adjustment is on the poinnts gap.


https://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-ts50xk-1984-e-e02-e16-e18-e21_model14157/partslist/FIG13.html

Can you see the area of adjustment for the 3 screws no.11
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 22:40 - 04 Jun 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

A good way of cracking those screws free is using a screwdriver bit in an old fashioned hand drill brace. You can then push into the screw head with your chest on the end of the brace and crack it loose with the handle.

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
As a 2T the only timing is on the ignition. If electronic there is no timing adjustment available typically, if points the adjustment is on the poinnts gap.


Not really a true statement in any respect. It's true of some but I'd say not of most.

Most 2t ignition timing with points is achieved by rotating the stator plate on slots. Only the really basic ones have a fixed points plate. Take this from someone who had to maintain a Kawasaki triple for his Dad where ignition timing had to be done every 500 miles or so by adjusting three seperate, stacked stator backing plates for three sets of points.

I've seen more than a few electronic ignitions with slotted hall effect sensor mounts.

You can also have port timing, especially with crankcase induction disc valve engines. The T50 isn't one but eg a FS1E/YB100/RXS100 is.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Farmingstock
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PostPosted: 14:09 - 05 Jun 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the stator plate off after drilling the screws out and behind it was the crankcase seal fallen out! I’m going to replace this now but I’m guessing that wouldn’t help matters.

Top end compression was fine, but may explain why the carb wasn’t sucking any fuel in
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Farmingstock
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PostPosted: 17:54 - 06 Jun 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Put the new crank seal in and it starts perfectly! Hallelujah!!

Thanks for the advice guys!
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blurredman
World Chat Champion



Joined: 18 Sep 2010
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PostPosted: 07:37 - 07 Jun 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Congrats! Cool
____________________
CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S, 1979 MZ TS150.
Current: 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 18k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 10k, 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (295cc) - 40k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 51k.
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