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Brake Pad Too Tight? Sound is disturbing on new Tracer 9 GT+

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Belanir
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Joined: 04 Jul 2024
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PostPosted: 19:42 - 04 Jul 2024    Post subject: Brake Pad Too Tight? Sound is disturbing on new Tracer 9 GT+ Reply with quote

Hello, I bought a Yamaha Tracer 9 Gt+ 2 weeks ago. When I bought it, I thought the brake pad was too tight. The dealer said it was like that because it was new. After using 800 km. the same situation continued in the first maintenance, again I was told that it was normal. However, I was not satisfied with it. Today, I did not use the rear brake at a distance of 6 km, but when I stopped, the rear disc was very hot. I am curious about your opinions, I am in a small city in Turkey and not many motorbike users around me. In the 25 sec video you can see the brake pad and sound. Video taken immediately after cleaning with brake cleaner spray

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/wvp2rABuNiU
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 19:52 - 04 Jul 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

The brake is binding. The wheel should spin reasonably free andthe brake shouldn't cause any noticable drag.
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Belanir
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PostPosted: 19:56 - 04 Jul 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
The brake is binding. The wheel should spin reasonably free andthe brake shouldn't cause any noticable drag.


Yes, I think the same way, but I am confused because both the dealer I bought and the dealer where I had the first maintenance done afterwards said there was no problem. There is no dealer or a technician I can trust in the city where I live, but I will take it to the service again at the first opportunity.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 22:00 - 04 Jul 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

You might want to watch a few YouTube videos on how disk brakes are meant to work so they can't fob you off as easily.

In essence: when you're not pumping on the brakes the disk should "push back" against the pistons and fluid flows (very slowly) back into the reservoir. It should be a self balancing system.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 23:36 - 04 Jul 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does it look to anyone else like there's an awful lot of piston showing for a brake with brand new pads on? Also that the calliper looks like it's fully against the stop on the sliding pins? So the static pad is jammed against the disc and the calliper can't float to the left any further. Like the whole calliper bracket should be sitting further to the left by 3 or 4mm OR the wheel/disc should be to the right by the same amount?

May be the angle of the video but I can't see the steel shim on the static pad (the one on the left). There should be a stainless steel shim with a fibre pad under it on the static pad exactly the same as the one you can see on the sliding pad. Has this been missed off because they couldn't fit the calliper on with it in there?

It's all a bit fuzzy on the video but is the back wheel in right? Looks a bit like there's a gap between the spacer and the wheel hub and the threads on the wheel spindle don't seem to be going all the way to the end of the nylok wheel nut.

I wonder if it's been assembled correctly? Maybe a wheel spacer in the wrong place or missing or a wheel bearing not seated correctly making the whole wheel sit further to the left than it should be? Is the wheel nut done up tight? Is there any side-to-side play (at all) on the rear wheel if the calliper is removed?
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 01:00 - 05 Jul 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Does it look to anyone else like there's an awful lot of piston showing for a brake with brand new pads on? Also that the calliper looks like it's fully against the stop on the sliding pins? So the static pad is jammed against the disc and the calliper can't float to the left any further. Like the whole calliper bracket should be sitting further to the left by 3 or 4mm OR the wheel/disc should be to the right by the same amount?

May be the angle of the video but I can't see the steel shim on the static pad (the one on the left). There should be a stainless steel shim with a fibre pad under it on the static pad exactly the same as the one you can see on the sliding pad. Has this been missed off because they couldn't fit the calliper on with it in there?

It's all a bit fuzzy on the video but is the back wheel in right? Looks a bit like there's a gap between the spacer and the wheel hub and the threads on the wheel spindle don't seem to be going all the way to the end of the nylok wheel nut.

I wonder if it's been assembled correctly? Maybe a wheel spacer in the wrong place or missing or a wheel bearing not seated correctly making the whole wheel sit further to the left than it should be? Is the wheel nut done up tight? Is there any side-to-side play (at all) on the rear wheel if the calliper is removed?

I wonder if it's been assembled correctly? Thumbs Up
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 07:08 - 05 Jul 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy-X wrote:
.In essence: when you're not pumping on the brakes the disk should "push back" against the pistons and fluid flows (very slowly) back into the reservoir. It should be a self balancing system.


That's rubbish.

The piston is pulled back by the deformed square section seal returning to it's normal shape.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 08:34 - 05 Jul 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

What if the seal's round? Laughing
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 09:53 - 05 Jul 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

As for the brake rubbing, I think this is acceptable. Also, keep in mind the chain and gearbox are both source of a resistance when rotating the wheel like that. Not to forget chain too worn or too tight even adds to that resistance, the same could be said about worn and/or very cold oil in the gearbox.

As for the exposed brake caliper piston, are both brake pads worn equally? Is the dust seal present?
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 12:08 - 05 Jul 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

RhynoCZ wrote:
As for the brake rubbing, I think this is acceptable. Also, keep in mind the chain and gearbox are both source of a resistance when rotating the wheel like that. Not to forget chain too worn or too tight even adds to that resistance, the same could be said about worn and/or very cold oil in the gearbox.

As for the exposed brake caliper piston, are both brake pads worn equally? Is the dust seal present?


Disc shouldn't be getting hot if the brake hasn't been used though.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 13:27 - 05 Jul 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree there's a lot of piston showing for what appears to be new pads

I know SFA about the Tracer but dont recall ever seeing that much
as I usually have to retract the piston/s back as far as possible to accept the new pads.
Then with new pads in, the pistons are usually just 'peeping' out of the caliper body

Even if it's supposed to be like that, I really don't like it

I also wonder, like Stinkers, if an 'outside' washer has been fitted inside
to push the caliper out
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 13:44 - 05 Jul 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Out of curiosity I tried to find a high res pic of the Tracer 9 GT rear brake
and only found one iffy pic I had feck aboot with

Our Turkish friends bike
https://i.postimg.cc/HkRz3WnF/tracer1.jpg

A Tracer 9 GT pic from the internet, possibly an earlier model
but the caliper looks 'right' to me

https://i.postimg.cc/25WwtpBy/tracer2.jpg
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 18:39 - 05 Jul 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Disc shouldn't be getting hot if the brake hasn't been used though.

Watching the video again, there is no way the rotor gets hot when OP can spin the wheel with ease like that. Thinking
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 18:46 - 05 Jul 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

I’d ignore that. My bikes’ wheels have rarely, if ever, spun entirely freely. There’s hot, and hot enough to warp. I don’t think you’re there.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 19:19 - 05 Jul 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Actually having watched the video now, thats not dragging, thats normal.
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Fizzer Thou
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PostPosted: 01:35 - 06 Jul 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just for clarification,remove the pads and see how much the caliper slides on the pins.It should move freely.

If not,remove the slider pins and after cleaning,lubricate with seal grease and not petroleum or copper grease.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 19:57 - 13 Jul 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just for the fun of it, today I tried how freely my wheels spin. Not bad, I'd say.

I usually get to 4.5L per 100 km (62.77 MPG?) but also can do 4L per 100 km (70.62 MPG?) when I'm reasonable with the throttle and know the road well enough, so there's no unnecessary braking. Meaning, if there is any drag in the brakes, it's negligible.

*'87 Honda XBR 500

Both brakes have almost brand-new pads/shoes and the front caliper was fully rebuilt last year (fresh seals, brand-new pots, fresh DOT4). With a big single cylinder 4 stroke you don't use the brakes that much. Closing the throttle is often enough to slow down in front of most of the corners, almost like driving an EV with recuperation without the energy regen thing. Laughing
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