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FZS600 3rd cylinder refuses to fire.

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OhHowOriginal
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PostPosted: 18:04 - 15 Aug 2024    Post subject: FZS600 3rd cylinder refuses to fire. Reply with quote

Evening guys and girls.
I've got a 2000 FZS600 and the 3rd cylinder simply won't fire.
I've exhausted my mechanical knowledge thus far and don't know what else to do.
So I've had the carbs off, unblocked all jets, completely cleaned all 4, they'd been balanced in my care by a garage prior to buying the bike back off a mate.
I've changed both coils, the HT leads and fresh plugs.
The compression across all 4 cylinders is within a tolerance of 10, around 175psi average.
There's spark on cylinder 3, but it's not super strong, although I would have thought enough to fire the cylinder up at least, but no.
I've put a new battery on today and still nothing.
I'm determined I'll fix it myself rather than just putting it into a garage (which I can't justify with an upcoming wedding anyway) but I'm not sure what else to check or try.
Can anyone recommend anything else to check please, I'm pulling my hair out going back and forth trying to figure it out.
Any help would be massively appreciated.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 18:10 - 15 Aug 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Typically a straight 4 is wasted spark so if cylinder 3 isnt firing and cylinder 2 is then it's not electrical unless...

either the gap on the spark plug is so small as to be no real spark or the HT lead is shorting on the engine.
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 18:52 - 15 Aug 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I've changed both coils, the HT leads…


Does that include new spark plug caps? Seems likely, but worth asking.[/quote]
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OhHowOriginal
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PostPosted: 19:00 - 15 Aug 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Typically a straight 4 is wasted spark so if cylinder 3 isnt firing and cylinder 2 is then it's not electrical unless...

either the gap on the spark plug is so small as to be no real spark or the HT lead is shorting on the engine.


How would I test for a short?
I put all new plugs in and I've swapped them around as well so if it was the gap, it would have swapped to a different cylinder not firing?
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 19:00 - 15 Aug 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unless the spark plug cap is leaking electricity to the engine block it's not the cap.

It's easy to check, just swap the leads between 2 and 3. A 2000 bike isn't going to have a crossplane crank so firing timing is going to be the same for both.
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Last edited by Nobby the Bastard on 19:03 - 15 Aug 2024; edited 1 time in total
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OhHowOriginal
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PostPosted: 19:00 - 15 Aug 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kawasaki Jimbo wrote:
Quote:
I've changed both coils, the HT leads…


Does that include new spark plug caps? Seems likely, but worth asking.
[/quote]

Yep, changed the caps as well bud.
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OhHowOriginal
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PostPosted: 19:24 - 15 Aug 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Unless the spark plug cap is leaking electricity to the engine block it's not the cap.

It's easy to check, just swap the leads between 2 and 3. A 2000 bike isn't going to have a crossplane crank so firing timing is going to be the same for both.


I should have said I did that and it ran on what i think was 2 cylinders and let out a hell of a loud bang.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 19:33 - 15 Aug 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

In that case your problem is electrical.
Unless, of course, I'm completely wrong about it being wasted spark.

I'd look at the coil, leads etc. for 2 and 3.
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OhHowOriginal
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PostPosted: 19:50 - 15 Aug 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
In that case your problem is electrical.
Unless, of course, I'm completely wrong about it being wasted spark.

I'd look at the coil, leads etc. for 2 and 3.


I've changed the whole lot though, the coils, the leads, the caps and spark plugs, I did check all the wires and such before fitting, checked all connections for dirt or corrosion as well.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



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PostPosted: 20:00 - 15 Aug 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking at parts lists, it's a single pickup ignition with three triggers on the rotor, one at TDC, one about 20 degrees or so round from it with the timing mark near it and a third at around 90 degrees so it may not be a straightforward wasted spark.


EDIT: No scrub that, it's a wasted spark, just checked a wiring diagram. Swapping the plug caps on 2 and 3 should make no difference on a normally functioning bike. Your problem is electrical.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 20:10 - 15 Aug 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

In that case ignore everything I said.

How many coils? If there is only 2 then don't disregard what I said.

Edit: The FZS is a follow on from the FZ and the FZR. Its wasted spark and if 2 is firing 3 should. if you swap the leads and it goes to fuck the problem is the leads/coil/plug/cap.
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OhHowOriginal
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PostPosted: 22:09 - 15 Aug 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll try again tomorrow when we get back from bowling with the kids.
So, from memory, coil 1 fires cyl1 and cyl3, and coil 2 fires cyl2 and cyl4, to test if its specifically the lead/cap/plug in cyl3, am I right in thinking I should swap it with cyl2 or cyl4?
If not, I'm happy to be corrected.
I also still have my old coil sets, I may try putting my old coil 2 onto the bike in place of coil 1 and see what happens.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 22:26 - 15 Aug 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

One of the coils does 1 and 4, the other coil does 2 and 3.

Each coil has a 12v supply in a black on red wire from the kill switch/safety interlock box. Since you are getting sparks on one, this could only be a problem where it splits between the two coils or connects to them. Check for overall condition and make sure there's 12V in both when the ignition is on.

Each coil has a single wire running to the CDI, one orange and one grey. Worth having a good look at the one that's supplying the suspect coil at each end checking for corrosion on the connectors and maybe doing a continuity and resistance test on that wire.

It's a fairly safe assumption that everything upstream of the CDI is ok based on it only having one pickup coil and it producing a spark. I say fairly safe because weird things can happen but it would need to be something oddball like a partial failure in the CDI or a damaged trigger bump on the rotor.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 00:13 - 16 Aug 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

After running the engine for a bit is the said cyl/ spark plug wet with fuel or dry?
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that_impulse_guy
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PostPosted: 08:12 - 16 Aug 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

going on from what stinkwheel said...if youre into diagnosis....the two wires going to the coil will be
1) one is permanently hot. 12v or thereabouts, when ignition is on.... Depending on bike and age of bike, this path may well go from battery, through ignition, through killswitch, to cdi..then from cdi to hot side of coil. ...any one of those items may well reduce the expected battery voltage (lets say 12.8v on a fresh battery), down by 1v or more...reducing spark power
2) second wire is ground, but not just any ground...its ground direct from the cdi...the cdi triggers this ground momentarily which causes the spark..

normally, cyl1+4 are together and fire at the same time, because its just one ground form the cdi to that coil thats getting momentarily interrupted by the cdi.
and then cyl2+3 is the other ground thats getting twiddled.

therefor, its totally possible to have the bike switched off, remove normal input wires from a coil.....run a 12v feed and a ground to the coil and manually twiddle the ground on and off to check for spark....effectively removing a lot of stuffs thats ordinarily in the way of getting a good spark.
and then you can work backwards from there...

before doing all of this, i tend to have the bike on but not idling or anything, just battery on, measure battery voltage, measure coil voltage, and then from there decide what Im gonna do..if theyre close, no need for the above tests...if theyre not close....then dive in.
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Last edited by that_impulse_guy on 09:29 - 16 Aug 2024; edited 1 time in total
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OhHowOriginal
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PostPosted: 09:25 - 16 Aug 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all the very helpful replies, if the weather is on my side I will do some more checking later on from everyones suggestions and report back.
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OhHowOriginal
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PostPosted: 20:14 - 16 Aug 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update, so I've test all 4 sparks from all 4 HT leads, they're all strong and equal, I've changed the coil for cyl2 and 3 and it's sparking great now.
I put quite a lot of fuel down the barrel (out of frustration if I'm honest) and all 4 cylinders ran for a few seconds then cylinder 3 stopped again, so I did it again and the same thing... I'm thinking it's carb related, despite having had them off... Should I have them off again or is there somewhere else fuel could be getting stuck to just 1 cylinder?
Again, I really appreciate everyone's replies.
On another small note, I've just tried to tax the bike ready for MOT and it says I can't tax it without an MOT, so am I legal to ride it to the garage for an MOT and should it still pass on 3 cylinders?
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 21:58 - 16 Aug 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have an MoT appointment you're entitled to ride there without an MoT (or tax) but you do need insurance.
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A100man
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PostPosted: 07:28 - 17 Aug 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

OhHowOriginal wrote:
Update, so I've test all 4 sparks from all 4 HT leads, they're all strong and equal, I've changed the coil for cyl2 and 3 and it's sparking great now.
I put quite a lot of fuel down the barrel (out of frustration if I'm honest) and all 4 cylinders ran for a few seconds then cylinder 3 stopped again, so I did it again and the same thing... I'm thinking it's carb related, despite having had them off... Should I have them off again or is there somewhere else fuel could be getting stuck to just 1 cylinder?
Again, I really appreciate everyone's replies.
On another small note, I've just tried to tax the bike ready for MOT and it says I can't tax it without an MOT, so am I legal to ride it to the garage for an MOT and should it still pass on 3 cylinders?


If you have some carb cleaner ( or 'Start ya bastard') with the airbox off you can squirt some down the mouth of #3 to see if that bring it on line = carb issue.
Can you drain the bowl of #3 to see if there's any fuel in it?
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OhHowOriginal
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PostPosted: 08:55 - 17 Aug 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm insured so that's great, she's booked in today at 1pm.

I've got carb cleaner so I'll give that a try before removing them again.
Is it best to squirt some down prior to starting or when the bikes already running?
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 10:02 - 17 Aug 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
to the garage for an MOT and should it still pass on 3 cylinders?

Interesting question. I don’t think it will pass but good luck. Let us know.
6.2.7. Clutch and throttle controls
Defect Category
(a) A throttle control:

(i) not functioning correctly
(ii) functioning such that safe operation of the motorcycle is affected
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OhHowOriginal
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PostPosted: 16:30 - 17 Aug 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

It did indeed pass,got one advisory for a warped front disk.
I have tried carb cleaner in carb 3, still won't fire into life, any mobile mechanics fancy coming and having a look, in the Warcop area?
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A100man
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PostPosted: 07:17 - 18 Aug 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can you run it in the dark to check for arcing on #3 ignition leads/cap?
I guess you might have to set-up a remote fuel tank.
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OhHowOriginal
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PostPosted: 10:32 - 18 Aug 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

A100man wrote:
Can you run it in the dark to check for arcing on #3 ignition leads/cap?
I guess you might have to set-up a remote fuel tank.


I checked that yesterday evening and i can't see anything, you're actually able to see everything even with the tank on which is a bonus.
Unfortunately you can't take the airbox off though without taking the carbs off so I struggled with spraying carb cleaner into #3 while it was running because of battery placement and the wires not being long enough to reach the battery when removed, annoyingly its directly behind the airbox.
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OhHowOriginal
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PostPosted: 14:43 - 18 Aug 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

In my majesty today I've pulled the carbs off again.
I've noticed number 3 is dirty.
The other 3 aren't, even though that was clean when I put them back on last time.
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