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Bultaco sherpa 250

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doggone
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Joined: 20 May 2004
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PostPosted: 13:26 - 15 Oct 2025    Post subject: Bultaco sherpa 250 Reply with quote

So... we have been given this as 'running five years ago'.
Having been built up from parts in a box by previous owner Rolling Eyes
But it won't start.
After cleaning points there's a good spark and it should be timed right.
Carb seems to be getting fuel and plug gets wet with fuel - when it doesn't start after prolonged turning over by running down a steep hill.
Two strokes are known to be temperamental but would have hoped to get a few pops and bangs even if it wouldn't run properly.
We have heard crankase seals can go and that will make it not run at all.
Is this next thing to be checking.
Had carb apart to clean out and it was surprisingly good in there TBH.
I'm guessing its from about 1980 but has the look of being cared for e.g. grease on things like chain...
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doggone
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PostPosted: 13:29 - 15 Oct 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

The engine kill on bars has been accidentally mashed, there is just a wire to hold against bars to stop it - we think.
Surely that doesn't work the other way round like needs to be earthed to run.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 16:23 - 15 Oct 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

doggone wrote:
The engine kill on bars has been accidentally mashed, there is just a wire to hold against bars to stop it - we think.
Surely that doesn't work the other way round like needs to be earthed to run.


It wouldn't have a spark if that was the case.

My experience of failed crank seals has been you can have compression, but you lose induction vacuum. So I presume it has decent compression when kicked over? Is it also drawing air through the carb if you put your hand over the carb inlet? If it doesn't, I'd strongly suspect crank seals.

A stroker ought to fire up for a bit if you throw a few ml of petrol down the plug hole and bump start it. Even with no carb fitted.

That also said, those bultacos can be latchy to cold start. I've seen some on long distance trials whose owners had contrived some highly bizarre starting drills.

Have you tried a new plug? If not, you should.

Does it have a crankcase drain plug? Could it be full of fuel/oil residue?
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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doggone
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PostPosted: 17:01 - 15 Oct 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
doggone wrote:
The engine kill on bars has been accidentally mashed, there is just a wire to hold against bars to stop it - we think.
Surely that doesn't work the other way round like needs to be earthed to run.


It wouldn't have a spark if that was the case.

My experience of failed crank seals has been you can have compression, but you lose induction vacuum. So I presume it has decent compression when kicked over? Is it also drawing air through the carb if you put your hand over the carb inlet? If it doesn't, I'd strongly suspect crank seals.

A stroker ought to fire up for a bit if you throw a few ml of petrol down the plug hole and bump start it. Even with no carb fitted.

That also said, those bultacos can be latchy to cold start. I've seen some on long distance trials whose owners had contrived some highly bizarre starting drills.

Have you tried a new plug? If not, you should.

Does it have a crankcase drain plug? Could it be full of fuel/oil residue?

Useful things to try there thanks.
Most two strokes seem hard on plugs ny first bike was yam RS100 and it was advisable to always have a spare in your pocket.
It does seem to have a good meaty spark but getting correct new one seems well worthwhile.
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A100man
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PostPosted: 18:29 - 15 Oct 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

Like Stinkers mentioned..
I'd go with weak spark (plugs, points condensor, coil - change 'em all)
and/or poorly timed.. I'd expect it to run even with bad seals - although it might not be able to pull the skin off a rice puddin'.
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Now: A100, GT250A, XJ598, FZ750

Then: Fizz, RS200, KL250, XJ550, Laverda Alpina, XJ600, FZS600
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ZebraDriver
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PostPosted: 07:39 - 16 Oct 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had one of those back in the 80's. Bought it as a non runner. Spent ages trying to get it to start. Eventually heated the barrel with a blowtorch and got my kid brother to push me to bump start it (4th gear). When it did start I found out (the hard way) that the throttle cable had been replaced with one that was too short and was holding the throttle 3/4 open...... Worst bit was that the kill switch was an old Lucas car light switch and it was mounted in the middle of the handlebars.

ZD
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blurredman
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PostPosted: 10:10 - 16 Oct 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you actually verified timing yourself?
____________________
CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S, 1979 MZ TS150.
Current: 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 18k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 10k, 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (295cc) - 40k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 51k.
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doggone
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PostPosted: 11:46 - 16 Oct 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

blurredman wrote:
Have you actually verified timing yourself?

With the piston at TDC is when it sparks, we know someone with a vernier (?) tool to do it properly and will borrow it to check but it should be near enough to at least pop and bang a bit.
It doesn't have anywhere to drain sludge out, we have what seems reasonable suction into carb too.
New spark plug arriving by weekend
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doggone
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PostPosted: 12:58 - 18 Oct 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

Had it running this morning, I got new plug for it but carb has been in an ultrasonic cleaner.
After about ten minutes it was pretty hot but running then after stopping it would not start again.
At least we know it does run.
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doggone
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PostPosted: 14:29 - 20 Oct 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

It was still proving temperamental to start from cold but it appears the choke was not working.
It has an amal mk2 concentric carb.
The choke doesn't work by restricting air but gives a richer mixture by drawing additional fuel through a fine jet when you operate the lever.
The jet is hidden in a thin channel that draws from bottom of float bowl, and it was blocked at the L shaped bit at very bottom.

With hindsight once we had spark and timing something like, the lack of choke could have been the main problem.

Once that was cleared and reassembled it has been starting first kick and not a lot of effort needed either.
So a quite usable bike for very little money - however now it is running OK we need new rear mudguard (plastic), brake shoes for rear and hose to airbox (it has been running without for testing).
The rear wheel has some loose spokes we might be able to improve things ourselves rather than sending it off with any luck.
Probably around £150 to sort it out.

https://www.inmotiontrials.com/ seem to be a good source of most parts if not always cheapest.
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A100man
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PostPosted: 15:48 - 20 Oct 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

doggone wrote:
It was still proving temperamental to start from cold but it appears the choke was not working.
It has an amal mk2 concentric carb.
The choke doesn't work by restricting air but gives a richer mixture by drawing additional fuel through a fine jet when you operate the lever.
The jet is hidden in a thin channel that draws from bottom of float bowl, and it was blocked at the L shaped bit at very bottom.

With hindsight once we had spark and timing something like, the lack of choke could have been the main problem.

Once that was cleared and reassembled it has been starting first kick and not a lot of effort needed either.
So a quite usable bike for very little money - however now it is running OK we need new rear mudguard (plastic), brake shoes for rear and hose to airbox (it has been running without for testing).
The rear wheel has some loose spokes we might be able to improve things ourselves rather than sending it off with any luck.
Probably around £150 to sort it out.

https://www.inmotiontrials.com/ seem to be a good source of most parts if not always cheapest.


Good work - Mikuni (derived from Amal) often have the same choke /enrichening circuit.

Obviously I now feel suitably meek for my electrical mis-diagnosis. Embarassed
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Now: A100, GT250A, XJ598, FZ750

Then: Fizz, RS200, KL250, XJ550, Laverda Alpina, XJ600, FZS600
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 16:33 - 20 Oct 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

The only good thing about a mk2 concentric is that it isn't a mk1 concentric.

Have a look on feked.com for parts too.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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