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Steering Head Bearings - Renewal

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MarJay
But it's British!



Joined: 15 Sep 2003
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PostPosted: 16:44 - 18 Oct 2004    Post subject: Steering Head Bearings - Renewal Reply with quote

Hi people,

Does anyone have any hints or tips on Steering head bearing renewal? I'm just about to attempt it for the first time on the TT.

I have removed the top ball race and the outer race from the lower taper roller bearing. I need to pull the inner race from the steering stem.

I realise that I will have to use a drift to replace the Bearings, and I have a suitable one made of some soft composite stuff.

What I really really need to know is, where do I grease, what sort of grease should I use, and how much grease should I use?

I'm going to try the 'leave the outer race in the freezer' trick on the bottom bearing. Good old Haynes manual!

Any other hints appreciated! Smile
____________________
British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F; Cheap project: CBR900RR FireBlade
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 18:24 - 18 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

So you have managed to get the bottom race out of the headstock then? If not, my top tip is to get someone with a welder to run a ring of weld in a circle round the inside, this makes it contract as the weld cools and a sharp tap with a drift against the lip of weld either makes it drop out or shatter to bits.

I use Molybdenum disulphide grease (the black stuff) as this is a high-load, low movement application, put it on the actual bearings, as much as you can fit.

If you get a big bit of threaded bar (M10) you can put it through the headstock and use the old races to pull the new ones in with the assistance of a couple of nuts and a big washer. Just wind them in with a spanner. Saves a lot of hammering and swearing.

Don't do so many wheelies next time Wink
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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MarJay
But it's British!



Joined: 15 Sep 2003
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PostPosted: 19:16 - 18 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

My main problem is pulling the old steering race from the steering stem. Thats the last part I need to remove.

Putting the new ones in shouldn't be too much of an issue - I have a lovely steering stem sized drift that should do the job.

The main trouble I have is that there is a rubber gaiter around the old inner race on the steering stem. This does not come with the new bearing. This means I have to remove the old bearing without damaging the gaiter. what I really need is a bearing puller. Unfortunately I don't have one. Sad
____________________
British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F; Cheap project: CBR900RR FireBlade
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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Robby
Dirty Old Man



Joined: 16 May 2002
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PostPosted: 21:35 - 18 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

These were an utter cunt of a job on my old suzuki VX800. No lip on the bottom outer shell (call it what you want, its hard and round) to get some purchase on. Ended up making lots of random tools, eventually got it out.

If it has a lip you can get to from above, then just get something long and hard and bash the shit out of it. Old chisel would be good.

I used CV joint grease because it was in my grease gun at the time. Put lots into the bearings themselves, then filled the headstock tube with as much as I could get in. If I had been keeping the bike for a long time afterwards I would have fitted a grease nipple too.
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Kickstart
The Oracle



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 21:38 - 18 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

The seal is normally part of the bearings, unless you have bought cheap pattern ones. I would say to buy a new seal if they are seperate from Triumph.

All the best

Keith
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MarJay
But it's British!



Joined: 15 Sep 2003
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PostPosted: 22:17 - 18 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

The bearings are pattern ones, but they are the same make and model as the 'official Triumph ones'. They just cost half the price!

The original top race said it was made in poland and the bottom race made by a japanese company. Both of the new bearings are made by the same Japanese company as the original bottom race.

The trouble is, the new pattern bearings don't come with a seal! Sad

Raaaaagggghhhh! Evil or Very Mad
____________________
British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F; Cheap project: CBR900RR FireBlade
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 22:29 - 18 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am sure a new seal doesn't cost all that much, trumpet parts aren't all that expensive. Then you can roast the hell out of the old one with a blowlamp to get it off.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Big Pete
Spanner Monkey



Joined: 18 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 23:18 - 18 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

for the bottom rollers - smash them off with a cheap n nasty screwdriver or a cold chisel, then carefully grind the race till its very thin, then pop it with a chisel, it should be loose enough to pull off.
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Big Pete
Spanner Monkey



Joined: 18 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 23:19 - 18 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

forgot to add, use a peice cut out of an inner tube on the stearing step under the bearing. The seal is a non standard bearing component, most bearings go in a proper housing with decent seals.
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MarJay
But it's British!



Joined: 15 Sep 2003
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PostPosted: 23:37 - 18 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks People! I'm currently thinking a Dremel or something to get the race off.
____________________
British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F; Cheap project: CBR900RR FireBlade
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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Git
Brolly Dolly



Joined: 17 Dec 2003
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PostPosted: 09:43 - 19 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

A dremel is my prefered tool for bottom race removal, just cut in a small slit from top to bottom then just pop it open with a screw driver, works every time for me.

On the subject of loading the bearing with grease, best way I found is to take a tub of the grease you will be using and put it into an old saucepan, gently warm the grease untill it melts(you don't want to boil it) then dump the bearing in there on a piece of welding rod, let the grease slightly harden and remove bearing that has now a full load of grease in there, easy and not messy.
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Kickstart
The Oracle



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 13:12 - 19 Oct 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

A less smelly way to pack the bearing with grease is to get a small zip lock back, stick some grease in it and lob the bearing in. Seal it up and then manipulate it for a while. The grease should get everywhere in the bearing.

All the best

Keith
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