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AcIdBuRnZ
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PostPosted: 16:39 - 30 Jan 2005    Post subject: Its fucked Reply with quote

Hi,

Had been meaning to change the spark plugs for a while now. Got all the tools together that I needed and started...

Catalogue of fuck ups from the off:

Took long enough to figure out how to remove the tank (you think it could have been easier - Haynes manual is shit)

A screw holding one of the side panels had to be drilled out - it was so bloody tight it rounded so I had no other option.

Plug holes full of crap so got hoover to clean out most of it.

Got one of the plugs out - it was completely fucked, I'm surprised that it started at all!

Put in new plug - but I don't think that its' going down all the way.

Then attached HT lead and tried to start it - only firing on the other cylinder. Bugger.

Made sure HT lead was on properly - then it fell apart. That's right, the end of the HT lead was only just pushed together!!! Fuck me! Laughing

So basically I have two problems:

1) How can I make sure the plug is seated correctly.

2) Where (and how much?) can I get a set of HT leads for a 1998 ER-5.

I well pissed off. No bike and no money to take it to a garage Sad

Any one got any ideas?
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Scotsman37
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PostPosted: 17:28 - 30 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can buy any new replacement OEM parts for a Kawasaki from Z Power, but they don't list everything on their homepage and so contact them by e-mail with a full description of the bike ie year & model and explain to them what you need. They will contact you within 24 hours with a price for the repalcement.

www.z-power.co.uk
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AcIdBuRnZ
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PostPosted: 17:40 - 30 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

You are a legend Thumbs Up Very Happy Thumbs Up

Cheers mate, I've just sent them an email.

Mark
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Guest
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PostPosted: 17:45 - 30 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can buy replacement plug caps in various shapes .......

https://www.dirtbikestore.co.uk/acatalog/plugcap.JPG

Just cut the old one off and screw the new one into the end of the HT lead.



Of course, if your bike has those fancy combination leads and coils just ignore what I say Embarassed
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 20:43 - 30 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Make sure there is no junk under where the plug is supposed to seat, a lump of blue-tak on the end of a screwdriver is useful for this. Now screw the plug in by tightening it 1/2turn, loosening 1/4 turn, tightening 1/2 turn, loosening 1/4 turn. This should clean any junk out of the threads and reseat any that are slightly bent.

Do not force it!
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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AcIdBuRnZ
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PostPosted: 22:46 - 30 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool, cheers Stinkwheel Thumbs Up

Gonna order a new set of leads then have another bash. Not in any rush for the bike (rideout on the 13th Feb).

I hate it when simple jobs turn out to be the worst Laughing
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instigator
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PostPosted: 23:28 - 30 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mark - totally wish you'd told me about this before, could have saved you an age. Very Happy

I've taken the tank off about 10-15 times now, and first time it took about 30 minutes, now, approximately one minute if you don't have to take the tank RIGHT off the bike, and 4 minutes if you do. The fuel tap is a right fidgety bastard to move around the frame and engine block. Its all in the technique relaly, ones you've got it, its easy.

And the right hand spark plug is a real bother to get out because of the coolant pipework. I wonder how the helll they managed to get away with planning that one????

My screws holding the mid fairings have almost rounded off as well (common fault) and believe it or not, I believe one of my plug caps is done for. Managed to bodge it on but its not very secure. The original ones are stupidly cheap and nasty, thinking of ordering myself some NGK ones instead.

Really pisses you off, doesnt it Sad
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AcIdBuRnZ
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PostPosted: 02:27 - 31 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Never thought you'd have had much time to play with the mechanics of the bike Greg - I've had mine almost a year! Laughing

Never had a reason to remove tank until now.

I removed the tank and turned it 90 degrees to rest across the bike - that how you do it?

Anyway, needing new HT leads. Can't do nothing until they arrive.

Pissed off - I hate leaving a job unfinished Mad
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instigator
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PostPosted: 10:18 - 31 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

AcIdBuRnZ wrote:
I removed the tank and turned it 90 degrees to rest across the bike - that how you do it?


Well, thats the way I do it now, for jobs like adjusting the head bearings if they're notchy (cheers stinkwheel) but firstly, when putting in the restrictors, the tank has to come right off. You just take off two pipes on the fuel tap, negotiate the fuel tap around the frame and voila, its off. Everyone says its not easy to do at first, its a right c*nt of a job.

If you hate leaving jobs unfinished, try this one for size. I drained the oil on my bike, put drain screw back on and started filling it up again. Filled it up with 2 bottles of 1l silkolene and realised I didnt have enough (8 mile trip to get some more, the NEXT day)

Then, when I filled it up with the single bottle, I realised I didn't change the oil filter.

BUGGER!!!!!

No chance I was going to take the oil out and waste more money/get contaminants in it.
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AcIdBuRnZ
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PostPosted: 14:54 - 31 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmm, I tried to remove my oil filter a while back but it won't budge. Changed the oil though (well kinda had to since I had drained it).
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Scotsman37
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PostPosted: 15:14 - 31 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Would it not move even with a torque/socket wrench?

It must have been over tightened without the use of a torque wrench. Neutral
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kasandrich
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PostPosted: 15:52 - 31 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Use a chain wrench, that'll shift it.
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AcIdBuRnZ
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PostPosted: 15:55 - 31 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

kasandrich wrote:
Use a chain wrench, that'll shift it.


That's what I was using, believe it or not Confused
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kasandrich
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PostPosted: 15:59 - 31 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

^^^^or a sharp'sh screwdriver, and tap a notch into the rolled edge, then try and tap it around with the hamer and screwdriver. Surprised
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mchaggis
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PostPosted: 17:13 - 01 Feb 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

kasandrich wrote:
^^^^or a sharp'sh screwdriver, and tap a notch into the rolled edge, then try and tap it around with the hamer and screwdriver. Surprised


Or just hammer the screwdriver through the filter and hammer it round using that as a handle to hit. Whistle I've no idea if the filter is accessible enough on a GPz for that though.
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bish777
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PostPosted: 17:18 - 01 Feb 2005    Post subject: Re: Its fucked Reply with quote

AcIdBuRnZ wrote:
Hi,


Then attached HT lead and tried to start it - only firing on the other cylinder. Bugger.

Made sure HT lead was on properly - then it fell apart. That's right, the end of the HT lead was only just pushed together!!! Fuck me! Laughing

So basically I have two problems:

1) How can I make sure the plug is seated correctly.

2) Where (and how much?) can I get a set of HT leads for a 1998 ER-5.


May have been a little premature buying new leads.....

You can snip half a centimetre off and screw the cap back on.

Dont be too scared when putting the plug in, grab the socket handle close to the ratchet end and tighten til it wont move. Then give it a quarter turn using the full length of the handle. That should seat it. Bear in mind you have to crush the washer on a new plug. Dont be too timid!
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Scotsman37
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PostPosted: 17:22 - 01 Feb 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

You know what you might have to do? Take it to a mechanic/welder with welding epuipment so that he can spot weld onto the filter plug temporarily a steel bar and then you will be able to remove it so as to do your oil filter change. I would highly recommend getting a replacement filter plug and buy a torque wrench and smear some engine oil on the plug's threading to prevent future seizing !

Last edited by Scotsman37 on 17:52 - 01 Feb 2005; edited 1 time in total
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 17:33 - 01 Feb 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

mchaggis wrote:
Or just hammer the screwdriver through the filter and hammer it round using that as a handle to hit. Whistle I've no idea if the filter is accessible enough on a GPz for that though.


Yes, it is. That is how I do it.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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AcIdBuRnZ
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PostPosted: 01:12 - 02 Feb 2005    Post subject: Re: Its fucked Reply with quote

bish777 wrote:
May have been a little premature buying new leads.....

You can snip half a centimetre off and screw the cap back on


Not bought any yet!

Will give that a try - I never knew they just screwed on?

It just pulled off in my hand, surely that shouldn't happen if it's screwed in place?
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 01:24 - 02 Feb 2005    Post subject: Re: Its fucked Reply with quote

AcIdBuRnZ wrote:


Not bought any yet!

Will give that a try - I never knew they just screwed on?

It just pulled off in my hand, surely that shouldn't happen if it's screwed in place?


It is just a metal screw that you twist into the end of copper cored wire with thick insulation on it. The copper core corrodes after a while and falls to bits round the screw (differing metal corrosion?)

A decent bike shop should sell loose copper cored HT lead by the foot, v.cheap.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 08:23 - 02 Feb 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

AcIdBuRnZ wrote:
Hmm, I tried to remove my oil filter a while back but it won't budge. Changed the oil though (well kinda had to since I had drained it).


Problem is probably that someone did not oil the rubber O ring that seals the filter to the bike when they last replaced it.

Agree with Stinky that the caps normally just unscrew. They attach to the lead by what is basically a self tapping screw moulded into the cap.

All the best

Keith
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AcIdBuRnZ
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PostPosted: 10:17 - 03 Feb 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers guys, you really have helped me understand a bit better.

I'll try the suggestion of cutting a bit off the lead and screwing it back in again. Hopefully should work!!!

Fingers crossed, I'll keep you posted Thumbs Up
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map
Mr Calendar



Joined: 14 Jun 2004
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PostPosted: 10:32 - 03 Feb 2005    Post subject: Re: Its fucked Reply with quote

bish777 wrote:
Dont be too scared when putting the plug in, grab the socket handle close to the ratchet end and tighten til it wont move. Then give it a quarter turn using the full length of the handle. That should seat it....Dont be too timid!

Or you could do the job properly. Get a torque wrench and the settings from Haynes/dealer. Also very useful when tightening the oil sump bolt so you don't over do it. Remember you're screwing a hard piece of metal into a piece of soft metal, guess which will split first Wink.

Draper torque wrench around £20-£25. Amazingly useful and once ought should last a good few years.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 13:00 - 03 Feb 2005    Post subject: Re: Its fucked Reply with quote

map wrote:
bish777 wrote:
Dont be too scared when putting the plug in, grab the socket handle close to the ratchet end and tighten til it wont move. Then give it a quarter turn using the full length of the handle. That should seat it....Dont be too timid!

Or you could do the job properly. Get a torque wrench and the settings from Haynes/dealer. Also very useful when tightening the oil sump bolt so you don't over do it. Remember you're screwing a hard piece of metal into a piece of soft metal, guess which will split first Wink.

Draper torque wrench around £20-£25. Amazingly useful and once ought should last a good few years.


Sorry to disagree, but bish777 has stated the correct way to tighten a sparkplug with a compression washer (ie finger tight then 1/4 turn). On easily deformable threads which are subjected to extremes of temperature such as those found on sparkplugs, angular tightening is a more accurate way of getting the correct degree of tension on the threads.

It is increasingly being used on cylinder heads too. When working on modern cars, it is unlikley that a torque wrench will be used at all on the cylinder head bolts, just a series of screwing and backing off of the bolts through a pre-set number of turns.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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map
Mr Calendar



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PostPosted: 13:11 - 03 Feb 2005    Post subject: Re: Its fucked Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Sorry to disagree, but bish777 has stated the correct way to tighten a sparkplug with a compression washer...

If it was that straightforward why bother publishing the torque settings? Confused
Trouble is you can start using the same method on everything and then wonder why your sumps leaking Shocked

You do it your way, I'll do it mine and we'll both be happy Very Happy
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