Poor spray job

[Bomberman]

Hiya,
Well, as I posted elsewhere, I slid down the road on my bike last week Problems,problems most of which appear solved now but...
The previous owner spray painted it matt black, almost certainly to cover previous crash damage. Crashing caused this paint to sort of bubble up and flake off in areas, apparently a crappy job. What I want to know is how do I get the rest off? Its blue underneath and I'd quite like to see it but if that isn't possiblw what's my next step? Do I need to respray it? If so can I do that myself?
Cheers
____________________
'Allo! My name is Inigo Montoya, you killed my father, prepare to die!
'89 TZR 125 - '94 GPZ500s - ZK3 GSXR600 Alstare

[mchaggis]

Brake fluid takes paint off a treat! I doubt you'll be able to strip it with solvents without taking off all the layers. I'd say you'd want to use solvents or wet and dry (fine sandpaper) to rub it back to the metal and smooth it. Then you'd want at least one primer coat, then several layers of blue, sanding each one after leaving it to dry. Eventually over the lot you'd want a layer or few of lacquer type stuff, I'm not sure what it might call itself.

Please don't just blindly follow my instructions, I've not had to respray anything yet so haven't done it before. You probably should be able to do a decent respray job yourself, getting it professionally done costs the earth from all accounts.

Without knowing what bike it is, if it's been ratted before, then it's tempting just to say rat it again. Matt black all the way.

Here's a basic Halfords how to. Whether it's really right or not is anyone's guess.

https://www.halfords.com/268.asp
____________________
I must not be a troll...
Mmmm, Guinness
Discovering the delights of Hammerite and a 3/4" brush.

[ZRX61]

[mchaggis]

[instigator]

Although I detected your sarcasm haggis, you might want to put in a smilie..... Some people do actually take stuff for gospel as soon as they read it, believe it or not

[Bomberman]

Hmm, thanks for the replies. Well, the one anyway
I was actually more refering to the fairings to be honest. I'm rather afraid that brake fluid may be just a little too harsh? The worry that I have, is that if I just primer over the current rat black it may eventually just come off when the black starts to fall off again So how to get the bodge job off?
On the rat bike issue, I discovered (a while ago now) that a previous owner had replaced the hinges on the lower fairing with a pair of actual door hinges I was impressed at the ingenuity (or laziness) shown by this
Oh, finally, what's best to repair a crack in fairing?
Cheers
____________________
'Allo! My name is Inigo Montoya, you killed my father, prepare to die!
'89 TZR 125 - '94 GPZ500s - ZK3 GSXR600 Alstare

[Frost]

Best crack filler is fiberglass resin.

If you do spray over the bike then there is no need to sand ALL of the black off. so long as it's all rough enough for the paint to stick, and smooth enough thats theirs no imperfections. Just sand it down with quite rough sand paper (120 grit) and make sure you are rid of all bubbling and imperfections (use a courser grit if neccicary, especially for sanding off excess fireglass) once its all as smooth as you can get it, sand it down with 400 grit.

Spray all the panels with primer sanding it down with 1200+ grit to keep it smooth.
Once thats all done and dry spray it the colour you want (gloss black?) sanding betwean coats.
You can laquer the panels if you like, but unless it's a very nice looking expensive bike i wouldnt bother.

[Kaben]

You should sand it back with 600 grit, then move onto 1000 or wet n dry paper. Remove the majority of the black paint (you dont have to worry about little bits here and there that hugging the surface below, just make sure that there are no heavy layers of paint, or loose surfaces). It is important to make the surface as smooth as possible before priming, and you should prime with at least two coats of whatever colour primer you are using. Sand teh primer back with 1200 between the coats lightly to remove any fine bumps. Allow a couple of hours for the primer to cure, then begin to spray your topcoat.

Im guessing you will be using halfords type spray cans, so hold these about 10-12 inches from the surface, and start spraying before you hit the leading edge of the fairing, and stop after you leave the trailing end (this insures edges are covered too) Do this is horizontal lines slightly overlapping eachother. 1st line going from left to right, next right to left etc etc.
After you have finished the first coat, leave for at least 3 hours, and then lightely sand it back with 1200 again. repeat this process 2 or 3 times (more the better, but can get expensive)to get an even coat.

When finished, leave teh fairing overnight to cure, and then next day gently rub back the top coat before spray laquering. Laquer is aplied in the same way as the spray paint, including light rubbing back (except for last coat) 3 layers of laquer should be the minimum you use to stop it looking bobbly. let it dry for about two hourz, then polish with a damp rag HARD. this will bring up a shine and also eliminate teh bobbles which can sometimes give paint jobs a "leathery" look. If u have an electric buffer, this is even better. Leave the whole fairing for another full 24 hours before fitting it to the bike, and you will have a deep, glossy, durable paintjob that will look almost as good as a factory finish ENJOY.


(Oh and do it all inside a well ventilated area. If you do it outside, the wind will blow the paint droplets and you will get uneven coverage. I know it sounds like a long process, but it is well worth it to have a decent paint job( leave as much time as you can spare between coats and it will be even better)........especially if you are thinking of selling it any time soon )
____________________
Its Not a Melon, Its Clearly a Lime!!
Yamaha Fazer 600Now dead, MZ 125 SM
My Deviant Art homepage https://robabloke.deviantart.com/

[ZRX61]

[Kaben]

whats wrong with the paintjob advice??
____________________
Its Not a Melon, Its Clearly a Lime!!
Yamaha Fazer 600Now dead, MZ 125 SM
My Deviant Art homepage https://robabloke.deviantart.com/

[Bomberman]

[Kaben]

the steps i have posted i have used on a number of my friends panels, and also on car panels and door etc (but generally using a charged spray gun rather than halfords spray paints) The method is the same, just make sure you take your time, or you will end up with a shoddy finish.
It is also important to sand lightely between coats, or the following coats will have nothing to "bite" onto........leading to peeling.

hope the respray goes well mate, post some pics on here on you are done
____________________
Its Not a Melon, Its Clearly a Lime!!
Yamaha Fazer 600Now dead, MZ 125 SM
My Deviant Art homepage https://robabloke.deviantart.com/

[ZRX61]

[Kaben]

have you ever sprayed anything?!! its called Keying! you sand lightely with very fine grit, and it removes imperfections as well as giving something for the next coat to bind to.
It is important, otherwise you get the paint peeling that is the problem in the first place, or little bumps from dust/hair etc particals that stick to the fresh surface.

I think it is you sir who is talking absolute bollocks!

Go get your finger paints out, then use them to lube your fingers and shove them up your arse
____________________
Its Not a Melon, Its Clearly a Lime!!
Yamaha Fazer 600Now dead, MZ 125 SM
My Deviant Art homepage https://robabloke.deviantart.com/

[ZRX61]

[Kaben]

im am not saying that you take it back to primer each time! just a gentle rub. When using charged spray guns (which i should bloody hope you used for a fecking spitfire or vintage machine!) you will not need to bother with keying, as that is the purpose of the charge, as well as to give an even coverage.
However it would seem to me that halfords type spraypaints are more the order of the day here, and these DO require keying, otherwise the paint will settle into individual layers, making the paint work far less durable, and leaving it open to bubbling at a far earlier stage.

[Kaben]

i dont want this to turn into a flame war, we obviously just have completely different approaches to getting a decent finish upon a surface.
I apologise for my previous posts being so ratty, am just in hyper tense mode as my dissitation is due tomorrow at 4 and im nowhere near finished yet

i can agree with you that you dont HAVE to sand back every coat, but i am a perfectionist and want a perfect glossy finish when i respray things. Gently Sanding back on laquer coats however does give a much deeper shine imo.

Also if you wet the surface of the object and use an electric buffer to buff in some liquid laquer polish (G30 i think the stuff i use is called) you get an Uber deep shine that is far harder than spray laquer alone.

Again sorry for bein rude, and sorry bomberman for hijacking your thread and turning it into a rant about the correct way to respray a fairing lol hopefully you have more of an idea on how to go about it anyway

Back to the dissitation now.....*sigh*
____________________
Its Not a Melon, Its Clearly a Lime!!
Yamaha Fazer 600Now dead, MZ 125 SM
My Deviant Art homepage https://robabloke.deviantart.com/

[ZRX61]

[Hex]

[Bomberman]

[Kaben]

Hex i was taught to spray paint by a guy that runs a custom auto respray shop in Exeter. He charges alot for his work, and pretty much always rubs between coats. I guess it has something to do with the quality of the finish you are after. Or perhaps he just has an extremely anal approach and this has rubbed off on me as he taught me.

Hope the finished article come out great bomberman. As for the detailing after laquering, id again say clean it thoroughly before attempting to cover over the laquer. and if its a large area (such as big flames.....god forbid) then you will want to lightely sand the area. Small lines will not need this as you dont need a consistent finish over a wide area. You will need to laquer over the top again though. a number of coats will be needed to remove ridging caused by the new layer of detailing paint.

good luck buddy, post some pics when it is finished.
____________________
Its Not a Melon, Its Clearly a Lime!!
Yamaha Fazer 600Now dead, MZ 125 SM
My Deviant Art homepage https://robabloke.deviantart.com/

[ZRX61]

[Kaben]

Well he charged £8K for an x-reg mini to be resprayed with a single color metallic finish, but with bonnet stripes painted on rather than as a transfer, and mini cooper detailing along the sides.
He also recently did a Ford gran tourino in the Starsky and hutch paintjob and got well over 12k for it. Maybe he's a little over priced, but theres not much competition in the south west.

[Bomberman]

[Kaben]

definitely looks better than the matt black mate, good job
____________________
Its Not a Melon, Its Clearly a Lime!!
Yamaha Fazer 600Now dead, MZ 125 SM
My Deviant Art homepage https://robabloke.deviantart.com/