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How much to replace fork seals??

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Slinn84
Scooby Slapper



Joined: 20 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 21:13 - 12 Oct 2005    Post subject: How much to replace fork seals?? Reply with quote

My right fork oil seal is leaking so i need ot get it fixed, not gonna do the job myself as i dont trust myself enuf

gonna take it in tomorrow hopefully but how much do you reckon i will be looking at to pay??

gonna shop round but there's only one garage near my that i trust enuf to leave my dear thundercat with

cheers
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instigator
Super Spammer



Joined: 19 Oct 2004
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PostPosted: 21:24 - 12 Oct 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

£40 perhaps a little more. Depends on how easy it is to remove the forks on that particular bike (do any plastics need taken off) Time is money.

Get yourself a thin metal tube a little bigger in diameter than the fork (the shiny bit that moves, god I can't remember the name) and do it yourself that way. Bit of brute force and it's an easy job. Smile
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Kickstart
The Oracle



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 21:25 - 12 Oct 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

The seals are cheap (~£10 probably for a Yamaha one), and add a bit of oil. They are probably very similar forks to my FZR600 in which case they should not take long.

Them doing all the work and it is probablya couple of hours labour.

If you can get the fork out yourself you can probably save 75% of the labour.

All the best

Keith
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White Noise
Mr Dudwee



Joined: 17 Dec 2004
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PostPosted: 21:29 - 12 Oct 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

doing it on my ZX at the mo, taken out the forks myself and taken them to the garage, he recons £50 parts and labour. (2 X oil and dust seals)
WN
____________________
Buy my wife: 96' Yam XJ600s (Diversion)
Wing Commander White Noise - SE Clique
Riding Tip #86: See God, then back off a bit: Problem is i haven't seen god yet, just a close up of tarmac on revett straight
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instigator
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Joined: 19 Oct 2004
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PostPosted: 21:38 - 12 Oct 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

WN, have you given him the bits yet?

If not, just rip the old ones out (bit of brute force) and put the new ones in with a homemade fork seal pushing device. Bit of metal piping which just fits over the fork internals. Thumbs Up That and a hammer is all you need.

https://motorcyclecruiser.com/tech/Forkseal-Step8-lg.jpg

Quote:
Moisten the inner surface of the new seal with fresh fork oil. Carefully slip it over the top of the stanchion and slide it down to the slider. If you have a fancy seal driver set, simply drive the seal into the slider. If you're cheap like me, take the old seal, cut out the inner surface, and place it upside down over the new seal. If you're lucky, you were able to find a piece of PVC pipe that matches the outer diameter of the fork seal perfectly. If not, take a hacksaw and cut out six sections evenly spaced around the PVC (Photo 7). Clean up all the grit and place it over the stanchion. Wrap a beefy wire-tie around the pipe and tighten it until the PVC fingers fit the diameter of the fork seal. Now, tap the top of the PVC until the fork seal is completely seated. Remove the old seal and snap the retaining ring into its groove.


Works a treat. Very Happy
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Slinn84
Scooby Slapper



Joined: 20 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 21:47 - 12 Oct 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

its not quite as simple as forcing the old seal out and putting the new one it,
you need ot dissasemble the fork, compress all the relevant bits and unscrew it all just to get it all apart, then all the old bits need replacing and stuff

i wish it were as simple as forcing the seal out and jamming a new one in

i can prolly get the forks off as kickstart suggests, so i'll try that and maybe get to grips with the haynes manual and a few days off work

workth a try i suppose
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White Noise
Mr Dudwee



Joined: 17 Dec 2004
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PostPosted: 21:48 - 12 Oct 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

instigator wrote:
If not, just rip the old ones out (bit of brute force) and put the new ones in with a homemade fork seal pushing device.


you missed out the part about draining the fork oil, seperating the two tubes and sliding the old seals of then the new ones back on, puting forks back together, putting the correct level of oil back in and compressing the spring and putting the folk top back on Rolling Eyes Very Happy
WN
____________________
Buy my wife: 96' Yam XJ600s (Diversion)
Wing Commander White Noise - SE Clique
Riding Tip #86: See God, then back off a bit: Problem is i haven't seen god yet, just a close up of tarmac on revett straight
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White Noise
Mr Dudwee



Joined: 17 Dec 2004
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PostPosted: 21:52 - 12 Oct 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Slinn84 wrote:
i can prolly get the forks off as kickstart suggests, so i'll try that and maybe get to grips with the haynes manual and a few days off work


getting the folks of is straight forward, the pain in the behind is a way to stand the bike with no front end. my bike currently looks like this Laughing

https://www.bikechatforums.com/files/wheres_the_front_gone.jpg

its not the safest way but feels secure, just hope to have the forks back by the weekend! Thumbs Up you could try and abba stand or a paddock stand that supports the bike under the steering head
WN
____________________
Buy my wife: 96' Yam XJ600s (Diversion)
Wing Commander White Noise - SE Clique
Riding Tip #86: See God, then back off a bit: Problem is i haven't seen god yet, just a close up of tarmac on revett straight
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instigator
Super Spammer



Joined: 19 Oct 2004
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PostPosted: 21:57 - 12 Oct 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

White Noise wrote:
instigator wrote:
If not, just rip the old ones out (bit of brute force) and put the new ones in with a homemade fork seal pushing device.


you missed out the part about draining the fork oil, seperating the two tubes and sliding the old seals of then the new ones back on, puting forks back together, putting the correct level of oil back in and compressing the spring and putting the folk top back on Rolling Eyes Very Happy
WN


Yeah but that bit takes less than 10 minutes!!! That's the easiest bit Very Happy

Wouldn't mind an abba stand myself, my bike sat on it's downpipes on a car jack. Thumbs Up
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Slinn84
Scooby Slapper



Joined: 20 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 22:19 - 12 Oct 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

i used to use a pretty similar method to get the front wheel up when changing the discs, two car jacks, one on either side of the crankcase

gets it up no probs, but the front paddock stand is much easier
no good for removing the forks tho.

i wanna give it a go but i've read the haynes manual and it seems very tricky to me

having to compress the forks to un-do screws and thread different things in certain places, and alsorts of stuff

on a scale of 1 to 10, how hard would you say it is to get to the seals??

1 being stupidly simple, (eg turning ignition on Razz)
and 10 being the hardest, (eg engine, and gearbox overhaul)

cheers guys
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White Noise
Mr Dudwee



Joined: 17 Dec 2004
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PostPosted: 22:27 - 12 Oct 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Slinn84 wrote:
on a scale of 1 to 10, how hard would you say it is to get to the seals??


i've never done it but i recon a 6-7. would have like to had a go myself but itching to get the bike on the road and no time + no light evenings to work on it! Crying or Very sad
WN
____________________
Buy my wife: 96' Yam XJ600s (Diversion)
Wing Commander White Noise - SE Clique
Riding Tip #86: See God, then back off a bit: Problem is i haven't seen god yet, just a close up of tarmac on revett straight
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G
The Voice of Reason



Joined: 02 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 22:48 - 12 Oct 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've done it a few times.

First time I needed it done I paid someone to do it. £80 all in.

Next time I did it myself and regretted I hadn't done the first time.


Compressing the springs can be a bit tricky, but usually doesn't take /that/ long. Helps if you have a friend to hold the fork.

If you give yourself a day to do it you should have plenty of time for stuff to go wrong.
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Kickstart
The Oracle



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 22:51 - 12 Oct 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

USD forks like those fitted to WNs ZX7R tend to be far more difficult to disassemble.

Normal forks are usually quite easy. However from what you say I would guess the Thundercat must have some adjusters on the top of the fork.

Normally crack off the bolt at the bottom, take off the top of the fork, remove the spacer, remove the spring, tip the oil out, fully undo the bolt at the bottom, take off the dust seal, remove the circlip above the fork seal and then just yank the top and bottom apart.

All the best

Keith
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Slinn84
Scooby Slapper



Joined: 20 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 23:58 - 12 Oct 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

well i'm gonna go for it
got the damper and pre-load adjusters on the top so the damper needs removing

all very fiddly but i've got all weekend off so i'm gonna order all the parts, dust seals, oil seals etc, then give it a go

cheers for the help guys Thumbs Up
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Robby
Dirty Old Man



Joined: 16 May 2002
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PostPosted: 09:05 - 13 Oct 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you're patient, a little crafty, and posses a slide hammer and a few self tapping screws you can change the seals without having to dismantle the forks.

Basically get a self tapping screw stuck into the fork seal a bit and tap it out with a slide hammer. Drive the new one in, your seals are changed.

If you have drain plugs on the fork legs that makes the fork oil change very easy. Otherwise you can upend the leg and pump it out. I'd pump it into a measuring device to see how much you get out, and then when you refill it measure the level.
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