Kawasaki GPZ500S pulling off problems...

[DynamiteBoy]

Just got a Kawasaki GPZ500s for my first big bike. Lovely example for age (91) and only has 22k. Previous owner was elderly biker who unfortunately had a stroke almost 2 years ago so the bike only did 16 miles since the MOT issue date...

Riding her home was a blast, 60bhp compared to my CG125... The only issues i had were pulling off in first:

If the revs werent really high when slowly realising the clutch the revs would die right down and engine cut out - has anyone had similiar issues or knows why this is happening.

Over the weekend im planning on filling her with fresh petrol and change the spark plugs...hope this will sort it all out....looking forward to commuate in our lovely british weather...cheers, Ow
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[MikeH]

Prob just needs using, but a full service and fresh fuel won't go amiss.

Mike
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[DynamiteBoy]

Reading paper, hear bang out-side, think to myself shit...me bike.

Bloddy thing was blown over by wind, only owned it for 1hr and 40mins of that was riding her home. I had on the side-stand leaning into wind..didnt think it was that strong...

Luckly the damage seems very minor, all plastics look ok, slight scuff on exhaust but the front right indicator needs changing (complete smash)...shes still starts ok, havent ridden her though

For future refrence in windy conditions should I use the side-stand or centre -stand
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[nrml76]

Sidestand. Position the bike so that the left hand side (stand side) faces away from the wind. This way the stand will prop up your bike in the wind rather than topple over. Make sure the surface is firm, or the stand may dig a little hole in the ground and fall over.

[0ddball]

Wouldn't hurt to pull the carbs off and give them a good clean, sounds like the pilot jets might be slightly gummed up. It should pull away from virtually no revs.

[ZRX61]

[Teaman]

or you could even aim it into the wind to lesten the area of force,,
I stood my bike up on a muddy field on its side stand at the base of snowdon in a gale and thing stayed up,,

surprised me cos about 5 tents didnt

check the shape of the tent,, thats when it was breeezy
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[Kickstart]

Hi

The GPZ side stand does leave the bike rather too vertical. You get used to parking it with care.

To be honest with the problem pulling away I would tend to think it is something to do with not being used for ages. Drain the carbs and the fuel tank and clean the rubbish out (Charlottes GPZ500 is a pig for getting water in the fuel tank).

All the best

Keith
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[RiChY_RiCh]

welll mines only a 50cc but i shud think it could be the same problem... it hadnt been used for a while and when i took the spark plug out it was well and truly covered in god knows what lol... try cleaning them and see ifit helps.

[iCraig]

Exactly the same thing happened with my GPZ, was leaning into the wind but blew over anyway. Even was on its centre stand at one point and blew over too.

The sidestand is indeed far to upright for the bike, just a design flaw, and something you gotta live with unless you want to start cutting bits off.

[DynamiteBoy]

Changed the plugs and fuel today, hoping this might help...the tank was full of crap....

Anyway it doesn’t have seemed to have helped, the bike still struggles to pull off or ride very well at slow speeds, the revs keep dropping - have to be quick to pull the clutch in before it stalls...very strange to explain as the rev needle seems to jump about quite erratically, it does kangaroo’s quite a bit in first and second before speed is picked up where it rides fine...

I got a haynes manual but to be honest im a bit scared of stripping down the carbs in case I break anything...if anyone has any suggestions or alternative ideas of the problem I would be grateful....
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[stinkwheel]

Kangarooing sounds like either a fuel starvation issue, water in the tank or an electrical problem.

Since the fuel tank was full of crap, this would be favourite, could have bunged something up in the carbs.

I would make sure the tank is cleaned out and give the fuel filter a clean. You might get away with running some redex through it although if something is realy blocked, it probably wont do much.

Also worth checking the air filter is clean.

If this doesn't work, I would be thinking about giving the carbs a strip and clean because at the revs you describe the problem is probably either in the pilot jet or one of the small venturi jets that are located round the edge of the air inlet.

The most difficult bit of pulling the carbs is getting the airbox rubbers back on afterwards. Also worth having a couple of clamps handy to clamp off the anti-icing hoses, then you don't have to drain down all the coolant.
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[DynamiteBoy]

Thanks for the quick reply stinkwheel.... Ive arranged for someone to come and help me strip/clean the carbs on wednesday night as im slightly hesitant of messing her up.

Think ill buy some new oil for her while im at and in the middle of ording a new air filter off ebay, give her a good service without paying over the odds at a garage.

Quick (dumb) question about engine oil from halfords - my manual recommends 10/40 but halfords also sell 5/40 (fully synthetic) for sports 4 strokes...basically will it worth paying £5 more for the 5/40 fully synthetic oil or is this not suitable for my engine...soz for all these basic questions - but i am trying to learn how to fully look after a bike - not just ride her... cheers, Ow
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[Kickstart]

Hi

Before diving in and stripping the carbs, drain them. On the bottom of each float bowl you will see a small cross head screw. Undo this and the float bowl will empty out. Do this to both carbs, wash away what is spilt and then try the bike (note it will take a while cranking over to start, as it needs to refill the carbs and the GPZ does not have a "prime" position on the fuel tap).

All the best

Keith
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[stinkwheel]

I would just use the bog standard oil and change it every 3,000miles without fail. I do a filter with every oil change (manual recommends every second one), I reckon your fiver would be better spent on a filter for every change rather than some fancy oil.

The engine design is over 20 years old, any oil you can buy today will exceed the specification it was designed for.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[RiChY_RiCh]

rite... im also back with a problem... my dad reckons its fuel stavation and he should be right because he used to rebuild bike engines, only problem is he doesn't have the time.. it ticks over at hgher revs than it should and wen i try to pull off it just dies. he said to take the carb off and clean it but i was wondering if it could be anythin else.

[DynamiteBoy]

Cheers for all the suggestions so far....a mechanical minded bike friend came over last night and helped me strip/inspect/clean and re-build the carbs on my GPZ500.... wasnt much dirt in the carbs but the bike now starts and sounds so much nicer...

Unfortunately the first gear problem is still happening....had the bike up on the centre stand with rear wheel off floor, but unless the engine was revving over 5k the engine would stall.... . My friend is adement that the problem is electrical and has taken my haynes manual home to inspect, but i was wandering if anyone on BCF had any ideas as to what could cause this.

Heres the symptoms in more detail:

- Idles in netural fine, clutch in first fine, let out clutch engine cuts out as if 'turning off at key'

- Unable to engage second gear unless back wheel spinning

- rear wheel seems a bit hesitant to start spinning (stiff), i but it down to being stood so long

- had heated grips added by previous owners just before sale

As menthoned previously when shes moving shes fine, its getting her there... cars at lights must think im a nutter as i rev the bollocks off her and shoot off..... .

Cheers for all your help so far...Ow
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[finpos]

Reading your description, one possibility is that you have a hell of a lot of drag in your final drive somewhere. Certainly there may be a problem if it has been stood a long time.

If I were you, I'd quickly check for partially seized brakes / wheel / chain (amazing how stiff a rusty one can be) / clutch. You should be able to easily spin the rear wheel with the bike in neutral. If the bike has a rear drum brake, there should hardly be any resistance at all.

finpos.

[DynamiteBoy]

The rear wheel is a drum and it wont spin on its own in netural - i tried this yesterday - theres alot of resistance. The bike was standing for around 8 months before I picked her up so im guessing shes slightly siezed. I bought some chain spray wax, maybe ill give her a good spray and inspect the rear drum

But could this be causing my stalling/electric problems? Are there any switch etc i should be checking?

Cheers, Ow
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[finpos]

I'm actually thinking maybe that the final drive drag is what is causing the stalling. You need more power/revs just to overcome that drag (it would be like doing a hill start on very steep hill).

The good news is that if this is indeed the problem, your bike will go even faster when it's fixed

Other than that I agree with your mate - loss of power under load can usually be put down to an electrical problem - but more likely a marginal component (e.g. coil, ht lead...) than a switch.

On an old bike that has been stood, it may well be a combination of both. Whatever the case, get that final drive sorted.

finpos.

[DynamiteBoy]

Cheers for the suggestion finpos, ill have a look tonitght hopefully...

Lets hope this is the prob, been a good couple of days really...thanks to everyone ive learnt more bout my bike and almost given her a full service...most def looks and sounds alot nicer/healthier...cant wait to get back on the road...

Ow
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[Kickstart]

Hi

One problem I had with a GPZ500 was the shaft in the rear drum seizing up (ie, the bit the actuating arm connects to). That would tend to cause it to stick on. Easy enough to strip down, tap it out and lube the shaft.

All the best

Keith
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[finpos]

If you can, take the chain off (easy if you have a split link)

1. Repeat your running engine -> into first/ second test.
2. See just how bendy the removed chain is
3. The back wheel should just whizz around with no resistance at all.

finpos.

[stinkwheel]

[DynamiteBoy]

Just thought i'd post to let u all now that the bike is now running fine...eliminated the problem this evening.

After all the hassel the side-stand switch was to blame, one of the terminals was loose with the switch covered in s**t... . Managed to get her out on the road briefly where she ran fine through all speeds and gears...

Have a busy weekend ahead of me - change oil/ remove and inspect back drum (stiff)/ oil chain and general wash.

Cheers again for everyones help and suggestions...Ow
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