There is nothing wrong with a bicycle...(Russian Federation)

[natv4]

...that an engine wouldn't fix.

And so began my third travelbiking* adventure. A little over 2 months ago, I began planning my 2006 Summer holiday. Once again it would be a biking trip, this time delving further East then I have ever been.

I knew I had to try something a bit different. Something that required more than just the normal, jump on a ferry, ride around, have a ball. Its not particularly impressive when compared to the travels of many people, but to me this is a significant step.

The Russian Federation. It seems that although they have embraced Capitalism, they are not fully versed in it as yet. For instance, they make no effort to make the process of visiting their country easy. Long queues, strict rules on documents, unfriendly staff. I spoke with people whom had come from Birmingham twice, because the VISA requirements weren't clear, or because they got to the embassy at 9am, and were still waiting at 1130am when they close the doors each day.

A word of warning; Ensure that your invite has your name spelt exactly as it is in your passport. One misspelling would cause your application for a VISA to be binned.

What you require:
- Accomodation (for every night of your stay, though usually hotels will assist you by pretending you are staying for longer, allowing you travel time in and out of the country)
- An offical invitation (available from various websites and hotels)
- A VISA (Get this from the Russian Embassy, after queuing for hours, by turning up with your invitation [both parts], passport, and photo)
- Insurance (Available at the border, I hope)

The Russian Embassy in England is on Bayswater Rd near the corner with Kensington Palace Gardens. Just look for the queue.

Google Russian Visa for more info.

So I have finished final preparations to my bike; Servicing, new tyres, checking luggage space, adding power sockets, checking radio gear (for meeting friends), organising telephones (I'm trying sim4theworld.com whom seem cheaper than everyone else), money for the trip, final packing lists etc.

I happen to be moving house at the same time (leaving my current place before I leave, then moving into my new flat when I come back. What is it they say, the second most stressful thing in life is moving house??

I leave Saturday 22nd July, 5am. I'll update this and my blog - https://driftby.com - as often as possible.

The above was written last week and ammended today.
____________________
Travelling around the world...a bit at a time. Where am I now? / Visit my BLOG
Bike: Blue Honda VFR800fi (*NEW*) Mileage: 22k Countries visited: GB/F/D/CZ/PL/E/I/B/A/HR/H/Rus/E/MA
West Europe...2004, East Europe...2005, Russia/France...2006, Morocco...2007

[natv4]

Well I sit here in a hotel in Blackburn, contemplating my trip. So far I have jumped many hurdles and organised most of the things I need for my trip.

Last Wednesday, at 6.30pm, I was travelling home from a shopping trip with my girlfriend (Manda). We were hit from the left by a car turning right. It impacted at the rear left hand side of my bike (Manda's right foot). The bike, now unsettled, went straight for the railing protecting a pedestrian crossing.

When the dust settled, I found myself covered in engine coolant from the radiator. I turned back to see Manda dripping blood from her foot. Already there were 3 or 4 people moving toward us. The police turned up almost immediately. The ambulance not long after. Manda's foot was leaking quite badly. I was worried about her and tried to get her to stop worrying about the bike. She really is a wonderful girlfriend, but priorities are not about bikes when your foot is cherry red with blood. I phoned my brother and hopped into the ambulance with Manda.

After the hospital was a strange time. Manda has a temporary cast, and will find out Monday if she has anything broken (they could not see anything, but the swelling may hide it - Monday they take off the cast and x-ray again).

I had a look at some pics of the scene of the accident, thanks to a kind by-stander whom emailed them to me. The bike is almost certainly a write-off. The forks snapped and the front is flat. So if moving and going on holiday at the same time seemed stressful, add in trying to find a new bike to use as well.

I am fortunate enough to have a brother kind enough to loan me his spare bandit 600 (my old bike). This is not the best tourer, and requires some servicing before leaving, but will do the job. I have said before that its not about what you ride, but rather where; so here is my chance to prove it.

I am still hopeful of finding another VFR800, but it seems unlikely to be able to prepare it in time. I have to go now to find a GIVI wing rack kit for the bandit. All I can think is how lucky we (Manda and I) are to be okay (it could have been worse). This will simply make the trip more of an adventure.

Be lucky all.
____________________
Travelling around the world...a bit at a time. Where am I now? / Visit my BLOG
Bike: Blue Honda VFR800fi (*NEW*) Mileage: 22k Countries visited: GB/F/D/CZ/PL/E/I/B/A/HR/H/Rus/E/MA
West Europe...2004, East Europe...2005, Russia/France...2006, Morocco...2007

[Steve H]

Hope everything turns out OK - Take Care
____________________
Mellow Yellow
The BCF Top TEN - 2010, 2009, 2008, The Original.

[Annabella]

Oh no!


That is so unlucky, I was really looking forward to reading about your exploits in Russia. I hope your girlfriend recovers and you are able to continue your holiday as planned
____________________
Avast! Pirates ahoy!
I did Cadwell!
www.bikepics.com/members/bella

[Flip]

Sh1t dude.

Fair play to your missus she looks very calm.

[Sephiroth]

Looking forward to reading this, looks promising .

Shame about the bike, hope the missus and whatnot are alright.

Good luck with everything

[Dom]

Glad the crash hasn't put a stop to the trip, plenty of people probably would've postponed it after something like that happening.

Hope you get a bike sorted and have a good 'un.
____________________
Photos and that

[Danny]

Sorry to hear about the accident, I hope your girlfriend is ok and that your trip goes ahead on time.

[Lawnie]

Damn that sucks

Hopefully this wont delay the trip too much, it sounds wonderful (I am planning a similar trip myself).

[Nath]

That's a pretty ballsy trip anyway, but to still go after that accident is incredible! Good luck!
____________________
Hard livin', hard luck.

[Modo]

total respect for you taking on such a journey Hope everything goes to plan and you good lady is ok

[natv4]

Thanks for all the support guys. I guess I'm a lucky lad. Everyone has been great. The accident was very unfortunately timed. Although I sometimes wonder if it didn't fix something much worse. If you've seen a film called Interstate 60, you'll know what I mean Maybe that bike just wasn't going to make it?

Firstly, I have some very very sad news. Yesterday my darling girlfriend (Manda / Moo) told me that she is unable to join me this time. This is because her foot, although not broken, is going to require treatment to the cuts etc. I am heart broken and so is she. What this means is that we continue as planned except that when I meet the others, she won't be there. I will also come back with them (We were going to Croatia). Get well soon my Moo!

Anyway our journey begins....

The clock reads 20:00, its a Wednesday. I sit in this little box room, hunched over an aging PC about to buzz its last. Keys in front of my eyes look unfamiliar, with strange red letters next to the ones I know. I'm in Hotel St Petersburg, those of you with functioning brain cells will guess correctly that this country is the Russian Federation.

My journey began months back, as mentioned above. With the small hicup that is a motorcycle accident but a week before departure, I am relegated to a Suzuki Bandit 600. No fairing, 8 years old, reliablility uncertain. Its black and I managed to fit a full luggage kit to it (3 panniers of 40 odd litres). I have items of clothing for myself and my now to be absent missus. A first aid kit, several electrical goodies (cameras, phones, batteries etc), waterproofs, toothbrush, and a whole load of documents and VISA's. Credit cards too. Seeing as how I'm already 5 days in, I don't think there is anything I have forgotten.

AWAY AWAY
As I set sail from my soon not to be home, I was greeted with a calm breeze and slight wet pavement smell in the air. Along the M20 I hurtled, stopping only to apply waterproofs and again to adjust. With a thunder in my ears, not born of bike, the skies are open and stinging my face.

A ferry operator saves this fool, squeezing me into a ship nearly adrift. The thunder still raging, keeps me inside. I copy an unknown traveller and lay head to hand. Only 3 hours of sleeping, it just isn't enough. No matter how much you prepare, it always seems too tough.

France is bleary, not even a dot. My mind is on moving, I see not a lot. Amsterdam is the lunch stop, thats a little strange, I do not see it, the reason for the acclaim. I pass on nonchalantly, through more and less rain.

A stop for petrol, leads to my first meeting. He is a biker, and likes my loud bike. My bandit can sing, but only at the top of its voice. His bike is a Rat bike, but it seems through choice. It seems we are similar, if only through fateful force. We set off together, to battle the wake (water).

MOTORCYCLE CLUB
At a busy truck stop, we fill our bellies. He asks where I'm staying, I motion "don't know". His phone rings a number, whom imparts to him, bring him down...stay for the night. The "something MC" or motorcycle club. Its bona-fide true to its name. Most have long beards, most would look scary and you could picture them in movies carrying iron bars. Their faces carry a history with them. They are all friendly. Quite happy to talk with a South African born, english chap. I hear many stories, interrupted only by the odd roar of a motorcycle engine, inside, being ceremoniously started and reved...hard. The room is full of laughter, Rock music, and now the smell of much consumed beer and sweet exhaust fumes. I think I like this place...

After exchange of addresses, and promises of Russian Vodka; I depart early morning, with too much beer drunk. I've a ferry to catch, and I've no idea or hunch. My SatNav says 1800, earliest there. The ferries at 1600, I'll make it I swear. Its all going wrong. The bikes not quite right. Where is my fairing, this isn't right, only 70 and my necks all tight. I'll look like an ape now. After many many miles, I loose the will to fight. It is too far. I phone the Moo, she rebooks the ferry for friday. I'll go via latvia and I'll back via sweden.

So much rain, and so much heat make this an uncomfortable run. I snatch 20mins sleep, once and twice. A rest stop, a quiet lay-by. Its all ok. I can do without this much sleep?

POLAND IN STING
Poland brings a unique greeting. I have since discovered that the vents on my new helmet, are actually big enough to scoop up a bee, at 70mph, and deposit said insect on the inside of my visor, quite alive. The first thing I though was "who the devil.." which may well have been his second though following "what the fuck just happened to me?" I did not think it wise to spend any more time waiting for him to find a scape goat for his now building anger, so a twist of the head, a flick of the wrist, and parted were this bee and I. I wonder now if that was his near death experience, to be retold through generations of bees (they only live for 30 days). I was flying along, minding my own business, just working when....WHAM! I saw this thing coming towards me. I thought SH...... Then there I am, chatting with the big man himself. Well I didn't know what to say. I was just about to open my mouth when he said "you shouldn't be here" and WHOOOSH!! I'm back where I was, flying along! Strangest thing. I guess there is a ......

Now his story ends there, but mine continues. I have never been fond of bees...well their sting anyway. Sadly for him, the next buzzy character to cross my path, hit my visor and parachuted into my neck. His last breath was used to sting my neck, hard. The fire, it feels so warm. I pack sting cream, and am very please of it. Although my neck still swelled up till today.

BROKEN BIKES
My steed seems a little less than Honda. Engine wise its using oil slightly less than petrol and I have already lost my speedo cable (so I'm guessing at speeds :-s ). A kind parking attendant (rare but true) has brought a loose rear axel bolt to my attention, would have been messy if that fell out at 70?? I get a strong pulse from the recently refurbished rear brake, so am assuming that caused it. Consequently I will not be using that till I get back. There is a rattling noise at idle, but thanks to that ridiculously loud can, I don't hear it whilst moving In fact the bike sounds fine at any speed.

WHERE HAVE ALL THE GOOD ROADS GONE
At best I'm limited to 60mph. There are many police along the way and they all hope to catch a noisy biker. To add to my issues. It seems lots of petrol stations and all hotels/shops do not bother accepting credit cards, well not mine. 3 girls giggle and direct, in polish, me to a bankomat. I stay in a hotel for 12gbp and get a room to match. The shower is broken and I have a sofa for a bed. I slept within seconds and stirred not at all.

LONG & STRAIGHT OF IT - Ignore SatNav, only sometimes
Polish roads are fun in the west, if not the most friendly insect wise (first hundred miles). After that, I got SatNav'd along the longest, straightest road I have ever seen. It did not bend for 100 miles, and looked old. The grass was peeping between the concrete slabs. The verge had invade what was once road. I spot a sign that says no vehicles beyond here. SatNav says forward. I navigate around. The road is clear, so with Nat logic in full flow I continue, for 15miles... into an unfinished check point, nearly literally. Sand across the entire road, a light sprinkling. I'm already on it by the time I brake...and brake and shit, stop braking. My SatNav says its a border crossing. A big angry non english speaking man insists its not. Tail between legs I head for the next one over. Its just an old barrier backed up by ton upon ton of rubble. Even a cheeky route through a field, risking a drop several times, does not let me pass. They must have thought about this....

RUSSIAN FEDERATION - slogan: Why make it easy?
4th time lucky they say. I gave up after 3 and went for a major town. The SatNav found a petrol station for my now empty bike. From there I follow signs to the border. Only 3 hours, to sail through the border, whilst I'm WAITING singing WAITING talking WAITING explaining WAITING not WAITING understanding WAITING my way into Russia (the little one, see a map). Insurance is part of the border crossing thingy. So don't worry about it till you get there! Whoo, I had got something right.

THIS IS RUSSIA
The very large, block like structures are everything I imagined. Square and imposing in a very Russian industrial revolution falling apart style. Nothing looks new, and then even when it is, the crumbling concrete and sand to the sides reminds you that a new building, cannot change the feel of a place. With the cloak of darkness concealing the day, a working girl confuses my intrigue for business, a single step as I drive away from the lights. I sorry a glance; I get my loving at home.

HEADLIGHTS & CANYONS
I must press on. I am likely to miss my hotel at this rate. I decide sleep will wait and ride through the night. The motorway is but a dual and I but a fleeting dot in the night. 40kph through the road works, this is bumpy. REALLY bumpy. My headlight agrees and to make it apparent detaches itself on a small canyon. Its black, I'm still moving, but my eyes see are devoid of light (moon or electric). I brake, whilst on sand; not knowing if I'm already heading for the ditch. We stop in a cloud of dust (I presume as I can't see). Well, its not that bad. Oncoming traffic will not see me till they hear the sound of splintering bones/bike. No breakdown. No phone (ran out of credit with the battery) Wait, its ok. Its still on. Just pointing downward dangling by its own cable. I put the stand down and dismount. The stand doesn't, dust being too soft, so I hold bike and scrabble for something ... a rock. Once secure, I feel around in my luggage and find the magic duct tape and head torch (both a must). Ah, voila monsieur, la botch job. 5mins later wind in whats left of my hair, wondering what I'd have done if it was really broken....

I guess I have waffled far too much already. I'll bid you a dieu, and write more later, I'm going to get drunk at the bar here, tomorrow is for going out.

Be very lucky all!

Nat.
P.S - Photos to follow, this PC doesn't even have USB!
---
To visit Russia: (don't forget take Duct tape and a head torch)

Get an invitation from where you plan to stay or google russian invitation. - Check your name is printed correctly!!

Goto Russian Embassy and queue (you will be there at least 3 hours) - Take your invitation (both parts) your passport, 30gbp (more if needed quickly), and a passport sized photo.

Wait around a week and a half. Go back and collect your passport with VISA (about 45min wait).

Goto Russia.

Insurance - 23 euros (2 weeks bike insurance)
Customs - 100 Rubels (about 2gbp)
____________________
Travelling around the world...a bit at a time. Where am I now? / Visit my BLOG
Bike: Blue Honda VFR800fi (*NEW*) Mileage: 22k Countries visited: GB/F/D/CZ/PL/E/I/B/A/HR/H/Rus/E/MA
West Europe...2004, East Europe...2005, Russia/France...2006, Morocco...2007

[natv4]

Not assuming anyone will read the long post above, I figured I'd reply to people seperately.

Nath - Thanks mate. Are you still out here somewhere? Spain I presume? Where are you gonna be next week? Ballsy?? do you mean foolish It is a lot further than you ever expect. I do some mileage for work, but there is always a motorway. Travelling the last 1000 miles on normal roads (very poorly surfaced) at cop friendly speeds (60mph) is harsh. Its taken 2 days longer than I wanted, but I did get to drink beer with a load of Dutch proper bikers! WHOO!

Modo, Annabella, Steve H, Sephiroth, Danny - The lady is cool, her foot is not broken, but she has some deep cuts (2cm), so they need to redress it every few days, hence she can't come. We were both hoping she would get the all clear. Thanks for your support. I'll get her to read the nice things you've written.

ROB84 - Go for it mate, the first day I was not feeling it. Then this biker invites me to their club and I'm chatting to a really great interesting bunch of people...can't beat it.

DOM - If I could do it then I would. I look forward my whole year to these trips. I'm a traveller born into a world of work and grind. Travelling feels like home.

Flip - You are right, the whole time she just kept saying, but your bike.... she is so sweet. I love her to bits (not literally)

Thank you all again for your support, it really helps.
____________________
Travelling around the world...a bit at a time. Where am I now? / Visit my BLOG
Bike: Blue Honda VFR800fi (*NEW*) Mileage: 22k Countries visited: GB/F/D/CZ/PL/E/I/B/A/HR/H/Rus/E/MA
West Europe...2004, East Europe...2005, Russia/France...2006, Morocco...2007

[alliamc]

Well done nat for going ahead with your trip and managing to move house before you left!! I didn't realise how bad the bike was when you described it over the phone, just saw the photos hope Amanda is ok now.

Enjoy your journey, speak soon x
____________________
Alli x
https://www.bikepics.com/members/alliamc/

[Nath]

Nice poetry there, must have taken hours to write I'm currently hauled up in marseill waiting for some new tyres, but i will be heading south into italy before the week is out. can't fully read your route map thingy but i'm guessing you're heading back to england via northern europe?

Any trouble with the russian police? I really thought you could be riding into trouble with this trip from the stories i've heard of russia!
____________________
Hard livin', hard luck.

[natv4]

[Steve H]

Thanks for taking the time to do the write ups, they really do make interesting and informative reading.

Good Luck with the rest of the journey
____________________
Mellow Yellow
The BCF Top TEN - 2010, 2009, 2008, The Original.

[natv4]

Well, as promised, here are some pics...
____________________
Travelling around the world...a bit at a time. Where am I now? / Visit my BLOG
Bike: Blue Honda VFR800fi (*NEW*) Mileage: 22k Countries visited: GB/F/D/CZ/PL/E/I/B/A/HR/H/Rus/E/MA
West Europe...2004, East Europe...2005, Russia/France...2006, Morocco...2007

[natv4]

and some more pics...
____________________
Travelling around the world...a bit at a time. Where am I now? / Visit my BLOG
Bike: Blue Honda VFR800fi (*NEW*) Mileage: 22k Countries visited: GB/F/D/CZ/PL/E/I/B/A/HR/H/Rus/E/MA
West Europe...2004, East Europe...2005, Russia/France...2006, Morocco...2007

[natv4]

and yet more pics...
____________________
Travelling around the world...a bit at a time. Where am I now? / Visit my BLOG
Bike: Blue Honda VFR800fi (*NEW*) Mileage: 22k Countries visited: GB/F/D/CZ/PL/E/I/B/A/HR/H/Rus/E/MA
West Europe...2004, East Europe...2005, Russia/France...2006, Morocco...2007

[SimonB]

Cool another great writeup looks like your having a good time. It was your last trip that inspired me to do a mini tour of Europe myself with a friend next not quite as grand as yours but maybe one day.

Hope you enjoy your time there and that your girlfriend recovers quickly.

More pics, more pics
____________________
Bikes: Honda CBR250RR [sold], Yamaha FZR600 [sold], Honda CBR600RR6

[CriPPle]

Some great shots there bro, makes me feel pretty gutted I was not able to make it this year........Will make sure my bike is ready to go for next year.

Hope the Bandit makes it through the last few legs of your tour it sounds like it will be just about dead by the time it gets back to the UK.

[Dave_ZedDragen]

Very interesting thread

sorry that youve had so many troubles along the way but I wish you all the best

Wonderful pictures too
____________________
Dave_ZedDragen - (2005)Z1000

https://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt306/zeddragen/zeddragensig-1.jpg

[Whosthedaddy]

After all the plannig that must have been done, an accident nearly scuppers the whole trip.

Nice to see that you managed to still get about.

Pics looked cool
____________________
Current : MSX 125 Past : CBR 900RR Monkeybike : c50 LAC : ZXR750 H2 : FZR600 : ZX7R P3 : YW100 : TRX850: Trophy 900 T309 : GSXR 600 L0: Monkeybike : XJ6S Whosthedaddy

[natv4]

Thank you all. Manda is now out here with me, hopping a little, but it looks like she is going to stay on. We have cancelled the Croatia part of the trip, due to the uncertainty of the bandit making it there. We are currently hauled up in Montpellier with friends, trying/waiting for parts for both bandits.

My bandit is awaiting cams and lifters (supplied by my wonderful mechanic in the UK and transported via my brother whom is meeting us tomorrow) and Mat's bike has a broken radiator which managed to piss all over his leg yesterday after we thought we had fixed what was then a small leak.

So I left you yawning at the St Petersburg Hotel, in the Russian Federation...

AMERICAN CHIT CHAT and BOLTING BOLTS
I did indeed manage to get drunk after my last report. Once again holidays and travelling allow for more friendly interaction between strangers. After spotting a couple leaving a table on the veranda/beer garden, I swiftly dash to the door, noticing as I swung it open 3 americans (a lady and 2 gents) on the same course. I gracefully motioned for them to proceed at which point, instead of the usual "thanks, goodbye" they asked me to join them. We chatted about many things, politics, history, the arts, travel...the normal sort of traveller fare. It was nothing particularly special, just like minded individuals carving into the night, aided by cool beer and warm summer air. I swayed to my upgraded, window overlooking the river, room and slept soundly, dreaming of a better world.

The mornings plans are changed with a single downward pointing finger. The kind parking attendant admires the rear axel on my bandit and, in Russian, asks if its meant to look like that. My face breaks a smile... I knew this trip would be interesting without my Honda reliability. I may be slightly unfair to the bandit, after all my honda had regular maintenance and was cherished, if not cleaned.

This bandit has had a couple of reluctant owners and is not in the same position. The Axel nut has undone, probably due to Russia's unique road surfaces (I though the Alps were mountainous), but maybe due to the pulsing nature of the rear brake. I can only smile. I make enquiries as to mechanics and luck shines on me as it often has this trip. An hour later a kind non-english speaking Russian Suzuki dealer is tightening the axel and briefly no no no, ok-ing my gesture of gratitude. Did this happen because of the pulsing rear brake?? I don't chance it and decide its front only from here on in.


PALACES PALACES PALACES
A day riding round looking at Palaces is all I can take, they are very pretty, but really. A palace is a palace is a palace. I take heed from the Americans and visit Peterhof, a good hour from St Petersburg. I enjoy the peaceful gardens of the palace, supposedly the most lavish of the era. There are around 150 fountains, all powered by nothing more than gravity. Its quite beautiful and peaceful. Much better than being herded through another tourist laden Palace. My time is running out, I must depart for Finland in order to meet my friends on time.

PETROL PETROL NO PETROL
As I leave the city, I notice more of the poverty they hide on the outskirts of St Petersburg. The dusty, graffiti strewn road side slowly slips into the distance. Out on the open road, Russia is an unfinished land. The roadside doesn't end, but fades out, tarmac fading into dust, sand, and rubble. The fields are untamed and unloved. Even trees look like bushes, with a slight height advantage.

I cover mile after mile. Another truck stop, this time no friendly voice. There is a queue behind me and mutterings in Russian that need no translation. I point and again. The lady serving me says something. I nod yes, then no twice. It seems to do the trick. My food arrives and I realise that I ordered chips to side and will never know what was missing. Good Russian food, well fast food. A hungry mind never cares too much.

The petrol is getting low, I switch to the reserve tank and wait for the next service station (I passed one a mile ago, but they have been every 5 miles so far). 30 miles later and I'm still looking. I know my tank is good for 50 miles but thats not enough to turn back now. 35 miles and I pull in, to find that they have no unleaded. I press on, my mind wondering what its like to be stuck on an empty highway, surrounded by forest and not a sign of life. Are there bears around here? With nothing but fumes and hope I roll in at the 50 mile mark. Fill up and promise never to let that happen again.

THE BORDER CHANGES EVERYTHING
As seems to be the case, crossing the border in Russia (arriving or leaving) seems to be a time consuming headache. Although I feel worse for the long queue of trucks that always appear on the miles approaching Russian borders. They ask a lot of questions but let me through. Finland glances at my passport and waves me by.

The change is astonishing. The edge of the road is now apparent. The tarmac finishes and the neatly trimmed grass verges create a perfect line. The fields are cultivated and cared for. No land is left to farrow. The sky line is amazing, watching day to dusk, as I weave on perfect tarmac with brightly painted markings. I snap a few particularly beautiful shots. The fir trees filter the yellow sun and produce an inspiring effect against yet another mirror smooth, super reflective lake, perfectly reflecting a sky of a thousand colours. It makes you breath an involuntry sigh of satisfaction. I must return here.

The country is clean and neat. The houses look cosy and content. No bored graffiti doodles here. Drivers are curteous and well mannered. As the night rolls on, I never loose sight of the sunset/sunrise to my right. We are far enough north here to never loose sight of the dusk glow.

ANOTHER DAY ANOTHER CITY
Helsinki is like any other major western european city. McDonalds is my coffee break. I watch for an hour as drunken people stagger in for a midnight fast-food-fix. Ladies look less lady like at this point. Loud-swearing, slightly-wobbling, face-stuffing...ah their feminine grace. My mind is far too tired. I get my cards denied again. Maybe this isn't a Russian thing. I walk to the bankomat and collect Euros for my petrol. No more than 80km away, I'm engulfed by my tiredness and out of necessity leave the road for a power knap.

POWER KNAPS AND CABIN NOISE
Its only at the ferry port, 2 hours early, that upon talking to a dutch motorcyclist, I realise that I haven't conversed with anyone for more than 2 days. A cabin awaits, but it is too long a wait for me. I bed down again, much to the amusement of fellow travellers, beneath the shadow of my bike. Full motorcycle gear, makes for a comfortable bed. The helmet supports the head better than any pillow.

The ferry is a non-affair. A cabin to sleep, a shower to wash, a toilet... I make a few phone calls from upon deck, unable to sleep due to noisy neighbours. I leave Stockholm, hindered by my SatNavs lack of underground ability. How many tunnels, how long? This place is just like the computer game. I'm unable to race, my steed is floundering. I seem unable to function. Sleep deprived and under nourished, my meatball dinner aboard ship seems less substantial at this hour.

WHOOSH!
What was that?
Sweeden.
Oh, will I see that again?
Maybe.

Sweeden flashes before me. I remember less than I see, the speed is high, the eyes unsteady. This is a long run to Paris to meet friends on time. I power knap my way to Germany, wrong turns and mis-placed GPS trust mean an unplanned ferry (just 30mins this time). Germany is but a blurr, and suddenly I'm in the Netherlands, visiting my week old biking buddies.


GOOD NEW FRIENDS AND THE KISS OF DEATH
I donate the customary bottle of Vodka, and seek guidance for the new ticking noise that overwhelms me whenever riding slowly. I'm little reassured to be told that it probably happens at speed, but is not heard over the wind/noisy pipe. A few phone calls, and a brain arrives. Cams or lifters, may be damaged / out of adjustment. You have only half the oil you should have. Probably terminal. Will I make Paris, I remember asking. Maybe. Croatia? Probably not.

I say a swift goodbye, evening has arrived and I am not yet half way to Paris. I ride all night, finding sleep when required. The fields are beautiful, but my bleary eyes barely notice. Netherlands is flat as. I sail into Belgium and then to France. I notice a convoy of bikers, join them until the outskirts of Paris, their invite for brunch, rewarded with a sad wave of the hand. Travelled far, far to go, maybe next time. Thanks for the company. All this conveyed without a word uttered, whilst disappearing into the distance. Maybe next time... seems to be becoming my motto. I must slow down, I will slow down...maybe.

PROBABLY THE BEST IN THE WORLD...
My school yard chum is on the phone. He cannot see me. We arranged to meet under the eifel tower, how exciting. I am, naturally, lying on a bench. Careful instruction doesn't seem to help, so I up and look. Its bigger than you think. We greet each other and then set about the work of catching up and planning our next nights sleep. We see a few of the Paris sights (The tower, the louvre, the notre dame). About 80km south of Paris lies Nemours. A beautiful little town, with a lovely chinese restaurant by the riverside. We grab a formule1 (28euros per night for all 3 of us) and rest for the fab biking beaut of a road between Clermont-Ferrand and Millau (A75). Probably the best motorway in the world.

WHAT A ROAD-A-COASTER
I don't remember it being this good, 100's of km of great up-down-left-right smooth as silk motorway. The only pain, the forward-facing gatso that is so popular here

With pizzas as bit as a satellite dish, safely stowed in our bellies, we leave our stay for the night, middle of nowhere, hotel and continue on. The Millau bridge is a sight to behold. Huge, nature conquering, it may not be long, but it sure is beautiful. 284m from the ground at the tallest point, it bridges an natural phenomenon which would otherwise mean a long trek on tiny roads through the town below.

A rest stop rendezvous leads to us finding a moto campsite near Montpellier. As hardcore bikers, we couldn't resist. Take the road from Lodeve to Lunas, then head to Joncels and its just a couple of km on the right. A proper, hardcore, motorcycle enclave. Plenty of loud music, beer, and friendly conversation. This is a bikers utopia. The toilets are unisex, as are the showers. There is a swimming pool and you pitch your tent wherever you want. Its 8euros per night and they work on a points system. They tick a card each time you get drinks and you pay at the end. A lovely way to holiday.

BANG BANG YOU'RE DEAD
So my bandit made it here, but its sounding worse than ever. The roads keep taunting me, the one from Lodeve to Lunas particularly good, nice wide A road, recently surfaced with hair pin corners and mountainous views. Its everything I can do to resist pinning it and enjoying myself...ok that is exactly what I do do. We speak with my mech back home and he gets us an entire 25k bandit engine for 220gbp. My brother agrees to collect and bring us the parts (he was planning to join us anyway). Everything is looking good... until Mat's bike billows with smoke from a dying radiator. He is steaming (litterally with oil) up the road I mentioned, he only stops because of a warm leg (from the oil splashing out of the ailing rad). This bike is going nowhere, I think, as he free wheels his way back down the hill to the campsite. The little Honda (Bros 400) carries him and her (Carly) into Montpellier where we are to meet Oz and Maude, to stay with them a couple nights. How strange the oldest bike is the only one still going. Maybe its just the legendary Honda reliability?!? I certainly am missing mine.

OLD FRENCH FRIENDS
Oz & Maude's hospitality is second to none. They insisted we stay for a couple nights with them. They have a lovely home cooked (merci Maude) meal waiting for us. As old friends often do, we chatted the night away. This morning Oz helped us find the French equivalent of a breakers. This turned out to be "Cas Moto" for motorcycle breakers. There is one in Montpellier (pieces occasion Moto) and after a phone call, we had a rad and an address. Hopefully we will continue our journey monday/tuesday after fixing the bikes. I am looking forward to more social tonight along with a good meal, this time made by us to show our appreciation.

Sorry once again for my rambling nature, maybe one day I'll tidy this up a bit, make it a little more concise, but for now this is really a personal reminder of my trip, free for anyone to share. Enjoy your travels all, anything is possible if you dare to try, no matter what goes wrong, you can never fail, true adventure is the trying, not whether things go according to plan.

Hope you all enjoy the photos, there were many more that I never captured. You'll just have to go yourselves!
Be Lucky All!

Nat.
____________________
Travelling around the world...a bit at a time. Where am I now? / Visit my BLOG
Bike: Blue Honda VFR800fi (*NEW*) Mileage: 22k Countries visited: GB/F/D/CZ/PL/E/I/B/A/HR/H/Rus/E/MA
West Europe...2004, East Europe...2005, Russia/France...2006, Morocco...2007