Starter motor serviceing (urgentish)

[mr.z]

Ello all,

decided to tackle the tricky starting on my cx, its allways been a bit more effort than it should be (they are known for starting right off the button)

Ive posted a pic of the current state of it, somebody said would probably need some new grease as the old stuff would have gona solid after this time.. and... there dosn't seem to be any :o anywhere :/ so i was wondering where would it need it? also as you can probably see the larger bit of the core is a bit rusty, should i have a go at it with a wire brush or would that be bad? or pointless?

Should i be useing normal high melting point grease? where does it need it? any advice?

thanks for reading
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>RidingSkills<->Tech Tips<->MyBikes<

[GSXFire]

All you need to do is take a bit of fine sand paper to the "Commutator ring" this is the small copper stripy bit at the far left of your picture, the bit that the two carbon brush contacts touch, get it nice and shiny and put a small blob of grease on the very end of the shaft where it goes into the end cap, you don't want any grease on the bit you just sand papered.
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Fire by name Firefighter by nature.
My old bikes. https://www.bikepics.com/members/firefighter1/

[finpos]

Of course, you tried a new/known good battery before you took that to bits

Be really careful if you decide to clean the commutator - you'll see it's a series of copper strips seperated by thin strips of insulator. If you contaminate the insulator with bits of copper, it'll stop working entirely. If that happens you can usually fix it by scraping along the insulator with something, but be careful not to scrape too deep. It's all a bit fraught.

Same goes for any internal cleaning of rust from inside - tiny bits of metal floating around inside will kill it.

If there is no dried out grease in it, it is probably because it uses sealed bearing which will outlast the bike. Decide yourself if you want to add grease to it.

I think what I am saying is put it back together before you break it.

finpos.

[alains]

brushes look fine . the comutator needs to be dig and clean . buy waterproof sand paper size 220 and 400 . make a tool as the one shows by my design . put the rotor axis in a hand drill (you will hold it in a vice) turn gently and grind the outside of the rotor to clean rust . then grind the comutator with the 220 then with the 400 . dig with the tool between all coper strips of the comutator (about 1mm) , then refit the rotor in your drill and make an other cleaning with the 400 . why doing that ? it's because the brushes dust goes inside and cram the ditch and will create a short-circuit when the brushes go from 1 strip to the next making sparks .
do not forget to oil every end and pinion .
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the worst day fishing is better than the best day working

[mr.z]

Yep, battery is new and have tryed others (includeing a car battery )

Ended up cleaning the comunicators with the finest sandpaper i could find (p1200) worked nicely, then a once over with contact cleaner.. ended up greaseing the notch at the end and also going over the larger part, seemed quite a bit of rust.. i know somebody with a lathe so might see if i can get it put on there and clear the crud off...

I can imagine some hamfistedness would cause some major problems, its amazeing its gone 20 years with no attention (i know the previous owner who loged every bolt he ever brought or changed on it in a book)

Seems to have worked a treat! i'll know better once its winter but one short jab with the choke out a little had it going instantly

Thanks for the replys
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