NSR wont start after taking carb restricter out

[blamchez]

hi all,

ive just taken out the restricter in the carb, put everything back in as it was before (except the plate) and now it wont start.

also, the battery is now nearly flat from trying to start it.

any help please! god damn stressed!
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50cc honda ---> CG125 ---> 125cc jap scooter ---> NSR125 ---> NC30 ---> CB500 ---> ZX7R

[alains]

did you open the fuel tap ?
now , put your battery on charge (if you do it on the bike disconnect the + ) . then try to start (choke on , no acceleration)
if it doesnot start , take off plug and :
- plug wet , ignition doesnot work . put the cap on the plug and let the plug lying on the cyl head , push starter button 5 sec. and look if sparks come , if not , change plug and try again . if still nothing download https://www.geneva-racing.com/~alains/NSRtips.doc and look chapter about ignition bug
- plug dry , verify the fuel line if ok , take off carb and check the fuel valve
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the worst day fishing is better than the best day working

[blamchez]

ok alains thanks for the reply.

ill try these things in the morning.

thanks again
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50cc honda ---> CG125 ---> 125cc jap scooter ---> NSR125 ---> NC30 ---> CB500 ---> ZX7R

[Minty]

Are you sure it was the inlet restrictor and not the reed block?

You wouldnt be the first!!!
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My fingers smell of your mum.

[alains]

[blamchez]

ok...

ive traced back all the tubes and the fuel line was kinked which i have now sorted. im hoping this was the issue but...

my battery is flat and i dont have charger, can i jump start it with a car? or will this fry my bikes battery? do you know any other way of getting a bike started with a flat battery?

thanks in advance.
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50cc honda ---> CG125 ---> 125cc jap scooter ---> NSR125 ---> NC30 ---> CB500 ---> ZX7R

[Sephiroth]

Bump start it.

Push it forward *getting a mate to help is alot easier on the legs * then kick it in gear and let go of clutch.

[Minty]

If all is well then you should be able to bump start it. Turn on ignition, put it in 2nd and hold the clutch in. Run, build up speed, jump on and release clutch. The moment bike fires up, pull the clutch back in. Keep revving it as this will help recharge the battery.

DO NOT START FROM A CAR USING JUMP LEADS.
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My fingers smell of your mum.

[0ddball]

[alains]

electronics do not like that
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the worst day fishing is better than the best day working

[Fawbish]

Most cars are 24 volt systems, (well in the UK they are) using one of them wouldnt technically be toooo bad straight off, but leave it on for any longer than the bare minimum and you'll probably fry the wires/battery terminals.
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"Oh....it looks like Average Joe's is forfeiting the match!" - "Yeah, its a risky strategy but lets see if it pays off for 'em Cotton."

[0ddball]

[ROB_NSR]

Yup, every car I've had has been 12v!
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CBT: PASSED!! THEORY: PASSED!! PRACTICAL: PASSED!!

[Finglonga]

[alains]

i think it's better you learn than saying stupidities
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the worst day fishing is better than the best day working

[Jebus]

99% of the cars on the road are going to be 12v the only "car's" that will be 24v will be some ex miltary stuff and this is so they can jump start the trucks and even some of em have to have a plug so they can jump a helicopter! this is in the case on miltary land rovers anyway the only thing that you might want to watch out for is a car battery is a hell of a lot more powerfull than a bikes one, dont want a massive surge of power or anything like that.
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2nd time around CBT: 8/9/11
125 Varadero

[blamchez]

i tried to jump it from my g friends fiat bravo, but i had been advised to not have the car running because it could blow the electrics on my bike. After a while it still didnt have enough charge to turn over.

final resort... push the bike 1/4 mile and call out the RAC. they had it running within minutes.

next.. new battery.

thanks for all your help
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50cc honda ---> CG125 ---> 125cc jap scooter ---> NSR125 ---> NC30 ---> CB500 ---> ZX7R

[finpos]

heh - I reckon you ought to do your lass a favour and get her to change the battery in her bravo before it craps out on her. Car battery in good nick will turn a small bike over for a good long time; sound like hers isn't too clever any more

finpos.

[novocaine100]

never jump a bike from a car. yes jebus was wrong most cars are 12 volts on the road but he was on the right track's a standard car battery is around 100 amp hour whilst bikes are rated at 10-20 amp hour thats a rather large difference. it will not only fry the battery but will reduce the coil life as well as burn out the starter relay. a jump pack which is designed to start a car is ok because these use a battery very similar to a bike battery and will turn a car over.
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i ham what i ham

[finpos]

You've heard of Ohms law, right?

finpos.

[0ddball]

[sickpup]

Dear God. A return to the 'never start a bike off a car, it'll blow up' bollocks. Don't they teach GCSE physics anymore?

[novocaine100]

ok so ohms law yer great but to create that resistance all that energy has to go somewhere it doesn't sit in the battery. heat build up is what happens normally across the starter relay a very quick way to reduce a relays life. as for the battery can you tell me why when a reg rec starts over charging the battery suffers.

Irrelevant. It's the load on the circuit that determines how much current flows, not the battery.

yer thats right but when you pump 4 times the amount of power into a battery it becomes a conductor rather than a battery.

yes they do teach gsce physics did you attend.
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i ham what i ham

[finpos]

Ok, it's do this or finish another completely useless powerpoint presentation.

The resistance in the relay winding is a function of the wire used, so we can assume that is constant. Referring to ohms law, I=V/R, R is constant, V is constant (12V), so the amount of current flowing throught the relay coil is also constant, regardless of the amp/hr rating of the battery you choose to connect to it.

Now, it's true that the relay coil will produce heat and this will affect the resistance of that coil. However, I think we must rely on the fact that whoever designed said relay isn't a complete retard, and actually managed to build one that dissipated that heat in a satisfactory manner so not to cause a problem.

If this were not the case, then, again, the reserve capacity of the battery is not relevent. The heating problem would occur both with the low capacity battery and also the high capacity battery.

Now, it could be that you are talking about the current that is passing through the relay's switched circuit to the starter motor. In exactly the same way, ohms law once again suggests that there would be no difference in any ill effects with regard to the capacity of the battery, as long as the voltage is the same.

Moving on...

It's the job of the regulator to keep it's output VOLTAGE clamped very close to the nominal voltage of the battery. The internal resistance of the battery is tiny (and more or less constant), so again, with I=V/R, we will see that any small difference in the voltage output of the regulator from that of the battery will cause a large change in the amount of current that the battery draws from the regulator, which we prefer not to happen because we only want to trickle charge the battery, as opposed to boil the arse off it.

Finally...

You don't pump anything anywhere. The amount of current passing through a curcuit is defined by.... [answer left to reader]

finpos.

[Minty]

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My fingers smell of your mum.