Overheating in This Cold Wether in Ques ( ... Still!)

[alien.46.uk]

Hi there all, haven't posted on here for a while as I've been out running my bike in, got 411Km on the clock in no more than a month ...

But since I've been using it to college and had the usual cues to deal with and not yet braving the world of filtering I've noticed that my Cooling system still isn't quite right.

Before my issue was overheating just idling but Kickstart worked out that was due to the Wrong sensor being in.

But this is after say a 15/20 ride. At the start i don't hit cues so it moving and sits at 60* which is also 20* under the best running temperature.

Then when im sitting in a cue of traffic within say 4 - 5 minutes im past 80* with it still on the rise.

Got stuck for a good 10 minutes once and was virtually in the Red just before i managed to get moving a little bit ...

I know you might say, well start filtering then, but i haven't built the courage yet ...

Also to those who say to take the stat out, i know the system is working due to the similar heated Rad. Also with the stat out it might become even more of a pig to start in the morning than it is already ... Also, when Kickstart and I tested it, the Stat and Rad system is working fine.

Its idling at around 4-5k, but that's due to some suspected broken seals allowing some gearbox fluid into the engine running with some air.

Could this high idling be almost running the engine too much and over-heating that way?

I'm going on a Big Charity Ride out on Saturday up near Manchester with 700+ Bikers, so have a good long run then, but im afraid that with the amount of bikes and police escorts etc, im going to get held up or at least not move too fast ... And im afraid of overheating at that point.

How about if i was to let the clutch out a tad and lower the revs whilst in cues, not enough to move, but i can let it out enough to get the revs back down to near 2k ...



Hope someone can help,

Luke.
____________________
2007 Kawasaki ZX10R :: 1998 Kawasaki ZX-9R - SOLD
1998 Yamaha FZS600 Fazer - SOLD :: 1994 Aprilia Pegaso 125 - SOLD

[Kickstart]

Hi

High idle speed will certainly make heat up far more rapidly. Especially at 4~5k.

Have you checked the gearbox oil level recently, by the way.

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[alien.46.uk]

As i wrote that I've reminded myself, so that'll be done tomorrow ...

It feels fine and smooth unlike when it was dry, so i think there's some gunk in there, but there's certainly less in there than when i started, just got to have a guess at how much ... Not so easy when it's all based on taking a bolt out and not having a level viewer to see ...

So, there high Idling would cause the quick heat build up?

I think it idling that high is helping run it in though, hehehe ...

I'm soo close to being happy with it again, just got this heat issue.



Luke.
____________________
2007 Kawasaki ZX10R :: 1998 Kawasaki ZX-9R - SOLD
1998 Yamaha FZS600 Fazer - SOLD :: 1994 Aprilia Pegaso 125 - SOLD

[Walloper]

When anyone says 'Take The Stat Out' they mean:
"Poke two of your fingers up my nostrils please and pull my head back till it hurts."

Taking the stat out is old fashioned shite.

You could do something to check waterpump circulation, airflow etc.

To check circulation:
1) With the engine stopped (**NOT MAD HOT**) loosen a fitting in the water jacket just enough to start a drip of coolant.
2) Start the engine.
This should increase the flow and pressure in the cooling system.
3) If the pump is good then you should get a Pee from the fitting instead of a drip.
4) If no noticable difference. Open till you get a Pee.
5) Observe.
6) Then shut off the engine.
7) The pee should slow to a dribble/drip.
This checks Flow from the pump.

Check the radiator core is clean by shining a torch from one side to the other. You will need to remove some fairing maybe.

Check the fueling of the engine it may be weak and cause the overheating.

The stat may be broken. Take it out and boil it in a pot of water when your Mum is at work. If it's good, it will open at about 80 Deg C. If it's bad it wont open.
It is difficult to see the stat opening in bubbling water so heat the pot slowly it should open befor the boil.....
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W-ireless A-rtificial L-ifeform L-imited to O-bservation P-eacekeeping and E-fficient R-epair

[finpos]

I wouldn't be surprised if that high idle was entirely to blame for the problem.

Have you got a fan fitted? Should you have? Has it actually ever come on yet?

Could also be that the radiator is not quite as clever as it once was (bunged up either externally or internally).

Also, have you checked recently that the rad is still full of collant?

finpos.

[Kickstart]

[Finglonga]

[alien.46.uk]

[Kickstart]

Hi

The RS is a bit like that. The power drops off a touch before the power valve opens (although I would expect it to pull through happily in 4th), and then picks up at 8000.

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[alien.46.uk]

Yer, i thought it would have too ... especially with my lower gearing. I think my dad had a play with the PV, so perhaps he set-it up rong, but when he showed me what he did, i have to admit it did look pretty bang on as somehow, there was a washer on the end of the solenoid for the gap, or we presumed it was as other PV's didnt have them on.

Hmm ... I dont think ill ever quite have the same bike again ...

Oh well ... Just need the heat sorted and to be fully run-in before i can really see if the PV is struggling

Luke.
____________________
2007 Kawasaki ZX10R :: 1998 Kawasaki ZX-9R - SOLD
1998 Yamaha FZS600 Fazer - SOLD :: 1994 Aprilia Pegaso 125 - SOLD

[hmmmnz]

i would go with pulling the thermostat out. even when they are working perfectly they restrict the flow quite alot.

just my 5 cents
good luck
____________________
the humans are dead
I kick arse for the lord
Wiring Diagrams BIDNIP it bitches

[Kickstart]

[Blau Zedong]

I think it's over heating because it's running lean as you are riding it with what seems to be a definate crank seal problem. A leaking crank seal is more than just a minor problem to ride around - the first time you give the engine heavy load you'll melt the piston. A failed crank seal should of kept this bike off the road untill sorted, as it WILL be nicely slurping all the gearbox oil, you'll find this out when the gearbox locks up soild. It won't get better with use - get it sorted.
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18:54:48 Rob Fzs: jews don't give away stuff for free

18:54:59 Rob Fzs: unless its their clothes/ hair/ golden teeth

[alien.46.uk]

EDIT as Blue posted whilst Typing :

As to the Piston Melting when under load, I've had it under load going up this damn huge hill up to college. When accelerating and running and sometimes pushing it a bit ... It's absolutely fine ... No over-heating whilst running and moving ...

____________


Right ... I'll check the Gearbox Level Tomorrow ...

And i'll double check the Rad level but it was completely filled about 4 weeks ago, so should still be the same and before anyone says ... yes i got all the air of the system] ...

My next note is that I bought a Chain a Sprocket Kit "For my Bike" only to find (Admittedly opening it about 2 months after buying it) to find that the Front sprocket is Totally wrong. The on on there is in pretty good nick so i "was" going to change the Rear Sprocket and Chain ...

Then I've now found that the IZUMI Heavy Duty O-Ring Chain in the Set has 114 Links. I was under the assumption mine didn't use O-Ring and also it was 104 Links ...

What can i do in this situation as I can no longer get hold of the Company on Ebay and cant find them, plus it was 2 Months + ago ...

Thanks,

Luke.
____________________
2007 Kawasaki ZX10R :: 1998 Kawasaki ZX-9R - SOLD
1998 Yamaha FZS600 Fazer - SOLD :: 1994 Aprilia Pegaso 125 - SOLD

[Kickstart]

Hi

What is wrong with the front sprocket?

With the chain you can just take a few links out to shorten it if necessary. Just don't take too many out!

O ring chain will last longer. In theory will absorb slightly more power than a conventional chain, but in practice tha difference will be tiny (and give it 10000 miles and the O ring chain will be in far better condition so absorbing less power).

However I would check you have the correct rear sprocket as well, rather than a kit for some other random bike.

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[alien.46.uk]

Basically the Front Sprocket is For a totally Different Bike. Its has 5 bike Square notches cut out of it instead of lots of little teeth like my bike has. But the current one looks fine.

The Rear is identical [Again, ill double Check], so that should be okay.

Its just the kit i have on atm has a Precautionary on the MOT in July so they're even worse probably by now ...

So that could be absorbing some of the power did you say? It's in pretty bad condition, hence the new kit wanting to be fitted.


Luke.
____________________
2007 Kawasaki ZX10R :: 1998 Kawasaki ZX-9R - SOLD
1998 Yamaha FZS600 Fazer - SOLD :: 1994 Aprilia Pegaso 125 - SOLD

[Kickstart]

Hi

Yes, but not that much power.

From memory I think the 122 engine uses a sprocket with loads of splines on the inside.

All the best

Keith
____________________
Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[alien.46.uk]

The Front i Got Looked something like the attached image. Except the sqaure notches were alot bigger ...

My Front sporcket look like the second attached image with lots of little teeth. Except mine has little tirangle teeth i think, not square little'uns like the image.
____________________
2007 Kawasaki ZX10R :: 1998 Kawasaki ZX-9R - SOLD
1998 Yamaha FZS600 Fazer - SOLD :: 1994 Aprilia Pegaso 125 - SOLD

[Marci]

Invest in a 120mm PC Cooling fan, a switch, some wire, and some zipties.

Attach aforementioned fan to radiator with aforementioned zipties.
Attach aforementioned switch to bars or headstock.

Splice it into a 12v line.

When you notice temps hitting painful levels whilst queuing, switch on fan.

That's the quickfix whilst you find out the actual cause.
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FAB-Racing MiniMotoSidecars - Back with a vengeance - F1 Class 2011...
CBR170 engine, custom chassis - www.minimotoscene.co.uk

[Walloper]

FIRST

[Kickstart]