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Rebuilding as we Speak, need Help ...

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alien.46.uk
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PostPosted: 15:15 - 30 Sep 2006    Post subject: Rebuilding as we Speak, need Help ... Reply with quote

Got the Mikata Kit through post today and the company who sent were really helpfull too, ill dig there name out.

Anyways, just preping the engine at the moment, scrapped off all the old gasket and about to fit the new set, but just want to flush it out first ...

I have these two options that are the screw to be able to flush ... I also want to flush out the gear box, so i rekon each one is on of those options, but just need hep as to which does what Very Happy ...

Here they are:

https://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a317/taazzukcb/Pegaso%20Barrel/LeftSide.jpg

https://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a317/taazzukcb/Pegaso%20Barrel/RightSide.jpg


I think after the flush im just going to build it as i think thats all i need to do to prep it.

Also, how do i fit the piston rings without that piston ring tool, I'm going to lube everything up with a bit of 2-Stroke oil ...

Then, what can i flush the engine out with? I dont/cant flush it with TTS as thats expensive and i only have a little left to lube the barrel/piston/rings etc ...

Could i send some light engine oil through it thats for a car that i was going to use in the gearbox? [As ive picked up some proper gearbox oil.

Also can i just clarify that this is DEFFINATLY the gearbox filler cap ...

https://marci.over-clock.com/DSCN0002Small.jpg



Thanks alot, sorry for the questions yet again, but im getting twitchy as im actually doing this, but enjoying every minute Razz ...


Thanks,

Luke.
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Last edited by alien.46.uk on 16:16 - 30 Sep 2006; edited 1 time in total
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alien.46.uk
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PostPosted: 16:08 - 30 Sep 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shocked S**T F**K B******S

Just realised The kit i ordered didnt have the head and more more funds are available ...

Would i be able to use the old one? It's a bi battered and bruised with bits of ring hitting the top ...

Does the piston go up and touch this, or can i get away with it?

Will this be okay to run for a while, or would it do any damage?

Thanks,

Luke.
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Whosthedaddy
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PostPosted: 16:14 - 30 Sep 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have absolutely no idea what you are asking about for the 1st 2 pictures? They just look like the bolts / studs that secure the covers to the engine? A gasket should fit flush and when the covers are secured the gasket will take up the shape between them and form a tight seal as long as the surfaces are clean and smooth.

The 3rd picture does nt look like the filler cap to me, more like an electrical connection for the neutral light or something along those lines.
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cagiva gezzer
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PostPosted: 16:24 - 30 Sep 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can't use a head that's been bashed. It'll have loads of hot spots and it'll mess up the combustion.

They're only inner heads so shouldn't be that expensive.

Have you not got a workshp manual for this? Even an RS one would show you everything you need to know.

Flushing - petrol / 2 T oil / diesel? Never flushed myself, prefere to open them up.
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alien.46.uk
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PostPosted: 16:28 - 30 Sep 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Noo ... i just want to flush any deposites of piston ring that might still be sitting at the bottom waiting to mess things up again ... I want to flush some light engine oil through it to get them out, but i dont know which of the 2-screws above let it out ...

Then i also want to flush the gearbox and re-fill that, so thats all good ...

Also that is not the neutral thingy as you can open it up and see engine inside and that tube just doesnt go to anything ... Something can go in ther,e but just want to check that its for the gearbox oil ...
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cagiva gezzer
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PostPosted: 16:30 - 30 Sep 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fill up the crankcase with "liquid."

Take your best bet at locating the drain plug. Undo drain plug. If above liquid comes out you've hit the jackpot. If not, you've missed.

If you've missed, try another drain plug.
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alien.46.uk
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PostPosted: 16:45 - 30 Sep 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

"Liquid" Confused , you hinting to something there that im not getting Razz ...

Also, how'd i test the oil pump is doing its thing Very Happy ... ?


Luke.
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cagiva gezzer
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PostPosted: 16:57 - 30 Sep 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

"liquid" as i'm not telling you what to flush you crankcase with as i do not believe it's a worthwile or effective task. But, i've already listed the possibilities.

To test the oil pump you want to fill the tank with pre-mix and idle the engine. A pulsating flow of oil should come from the outlet of the oil pump. Disconnect the throttle cable from the pump and raise the revs. The amount of oil coming from the tube should increase. Keep the revs steady and swing the rocker around. This will cause the flow to suddenly increase.

^^ if its a dellorto look-a-like oil pump.
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Paddy Blake
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PostPosted: 17:18 - 30 Sep 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

The best thing is to take out the engine so you can rince the crankshaft
area out with petrol and turn it upsidedown to clear it.You need to do this
a few times.There should be no need to flush the gearbox just drain the
oil before you flush the crank and refill after.
The head should be ok with a light sanding but the piston should not have
hit the head so check the big end bearing for wear.Turn the crank until
the conrod is at the top and check for up and down movement.

The picture you say is the filler has the breather on it so you could put the
oil in there no problem,you just need to know how much.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 17:23 - 30 Sep 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Splitting the cases is a pig on the Rotax engines. You will need pullers to reassemble the engine (unless you want to be rebuilding it with new main bearings within 1000 miles).

Neither of those 2 bolts are the one you want. The bolt to drain the crankcase goes in almost vertically, and is just in front of the starter motor.

All the best

Keith
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alien.46.uk
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PostPosted: 17:34 - 30 Sep 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Paddyblake: Im not confident enough to take the whole engine out, so i cant use your method.

Okay, i tihnk i know which bolt you mean then ... It's about 225 [Degrees] from 12 o'clock if you get me from the left hand side ... Right up front ...

And testing the oil pump seems highly complicated, lol, oh well ... I really need to make sure its working so that will be my next task, although i dont know how testing the pump will effect the run-in of the new top end?

Can anyone also find a link to a chaper Piston Head that doesnt cost £60 for origional and can be here by tuesday at the latest Razz ... No matter what i do, there's always something preping itself to set me back ...

Perhaps im not born to be a biker, but I'm fighting it all the way Very Happy ...

Anyways, i must nearly be there ... just need this head and another blag for money ...

Ill give this flush a go, and ill put through some spare engine oil [Some cheapo stuff from Tesco Very Happy] ... Hopefully its drain any crap in there ...




Luke.

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Paddy Blake
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PostPosted: 17:48 - 30 Sep 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Use petrol to flush it out then oil the bearings with twostroke oil.

Paddy.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 17:57 - 30 Sep 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Last time I flushed a 2-stroke crankcase (because it had been under water and was full of silt) I used diesel. Filled it up and spun the crank round using the end of the conrod then drained it (I had to turn it upside down, but if you have a drain plug, use that).

I gave it three changes of diesel then flushed it with petrol:2-stroke premix at 40:1 to make sure the bearings were well oiled.

Last time I flushed a gearbox.. well I never have, I think it is a total waste of time unless there is something in it that shouldn't be. If I was going to, I wouldn't piss about with flushing oil. I'd just use cheap garage forecourt oil of the correct grade.
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alien.46.uk
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PostPosted: 19:20 - 30 Sep 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

The reason i want to flush the Gearbox, was that it was run dry some time ago for quite some time, so there's been some thick van gearbox oil in there, to gather all the shards of metal that might of come off the gears then i plan to flush them and put back some lighter motorcycle gearbox oil.

So far i flushed with some cheap tesco engine oil, so tomorow ill flush it with some petrol, then a little dab of 2-stroke oil as i only have a litle bit left and need to lube up the Piston and Barrel.
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Paddy Blake
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PostPosted: 19:43 - 30 Sep 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don,t put petrol in the gearbox because you wont get it all out and when
you put the oil into the gearbox the petrol that is left in there will brake
down the new oil.

Paddy.
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alien.46.uk
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PostPosted: 20:33 - 30 Sep 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry, i didnt write that very well, the petrol was meaning to go through the engine Razz ... Not the Gearbox, that'll just be flushed with Gearbox oil ...


Luke
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 01:02 - 01 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you're going to flush the crankcases with petrol, make sure the last flush is with pre-mix or you'll wash all the oil out of the bearings.

With respect, if you don't have enough 2-stroke left to do this, go buy some more. Lubing the bore will be the least of your worries if the bearings pack in. You could quite safely use some light engine oil to put on the bore as you assemble it but you MUST have 2-stroke oil in the bearings.
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Paddy Blake
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PostPosted: 01:20 - 01 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
If you're going to flush the crankcases with petrol, make sure the last flush is with pre-mix or you'll wash all the oil out of the bearings.

With respect, if you don't have enough 2-stroke left to do this, go buy some more. Lubing the bore will be the least of your worries if the bearings pack in. You could quite safely use some light engine oil to put on the bore as you assemble it but you MUST have 2-stroke oil in the bearings.

[quote="Paddy Blake"]Use petrol to flush it out then oil the bearings with twostroke oil.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 01:23 - 01 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paddy Blake wrote:

Use petrol to flush it out then oil the bearings with twostroke oil.


Agreed, he just didn't seem to be listening so I thought I'd say it again.
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Paddy Blake
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PostPosted: 01:36 - 01 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry stinkwheel it,s the night i have had when you were not around to
sort this things out.Any chance you could sort this guy out,i cant be sure
what to do i never worked on one of this.

Cheers.Paddy.
https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=96503
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ZRX61
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PostPosted: 02:17 - 01 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

What the fuck is a "piston head"????


I can see this one is going to end in tears.... Rolling Eyes
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alien.46.uk
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PostPosted: 21:41 - 01 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Right, piston head, perhaps i mean the cyclinder head? Not too sure Razz ...

But anywho, is this in anyway re-useable for saveable? Can the lumps be filed down or sanded down?

It's just a new one is out of my price range of £0!

Here's the pics:

https://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a317/taazzukcb/Pegaso%20Re-Build/DSCN0077Medium.jpg

https://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a317/taazzukcb/Pegaso%20Re-Build/DSCN0080Medium.jpg

https://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a317/taazzukcb/Pegaso%20Re-Build/DSCN0081Medium.jpg
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gavin
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PostPosted: 22:04 - 01 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

it is salvagable, but it will cost, you cant just sand it down. it needs machining on a lathe to get the pits out and keep the correct squish profile. the gasket face will also need machining down to compensate, and you may need plain nuts (or extra washers) if the bike has dome nuts, as they wont do up fully after its been machined.

if your mitaka barrell is a big bore, you will need it reprofiling anyway.
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alien.46.uk
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PostPosted: 22:15 - 01 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

No, i havent gone for a big bore kit, it's the normal 125cc ...

Im guessing this will end up costing more then a second hand head?



Luke.
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ZRX61
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PostPosted: 06:55 - 02 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

gavin wrote:
it is salvagable, but it will cost, you cant just sand it down. it needs machining on a lathe to get the pits out and keep the correct squish profile. the gasket face will also need machining down to compensate, and you may need plain nuts (or extra washers) if the bike has dome nuts, as they wont do up fully after its been machined.

& then ya have the chance of the piston closing the plug gap... Wink
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