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alien.46.uk
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PostPosted: 15:44 - 01 Oct 2006    Post subject: Is this right? Reply with quote

Simple Question ... Is this right?

Because it doesn't look it and there isnt much room for the bolt and it could strip with not enough ...


https://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a317/taazzukcb/Pegaso%20Re-Build/DSCN0067Medium.jpg

https://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a317/taazzukcb/Pegaso%20Re-Build/DSCN0068Medium.jpg

https://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a317/taazzukcb/Pegaso%20Re-Build/DSCN0069Medium.jpg

https://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a317/taazzukcb/Pegaso%20Re-Build/DSCN0070Medium.jpg

https://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a317/taazzukcb/Pegaso%20Re-Build/DSCN0071Medium.jpg

https://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a317/taazzukcb/Pegaso%20Re-Build/DSCN0072Medium.jpg

https://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a317/taazzukcb/Pegaso%20Re-Build/DSCN0073Medium.jpg

https://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a317/taazzukcb/Pegaso%20Re-Build/DSCN0074Medium.jpg
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 15:49 - 01 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Err, no. But how many base gaskets have you got on there?

All the best

Keith
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alien.46.uk
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PostPosted: 15:52 - 01 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just over 1.0mm of gaskets, as it says it need 1.0mm squish ...

This is the kit they said i needed so i dont get it ...

Is this completely wrong or is it a case of too many gaskets?


Luke.
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0ddball
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PostPosted: 15:54 - 01 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd be wanting at least 2 full threads showing once the nut is fitted.

I don't think it means that type of squish Laughing It's probably refering to the gap between the rim of the piston and the cylinder head deck at tdc.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 15:55 - 01 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

1mm squish is the distance from the edge of the piston to the edge of the head when the piston is at TDC.

Normally you should be using a 0.3mm or 0.5mm gasket. Which explains ~0.5mm of the stud shortness. Remember that it will seat a bit further than that,

Not seen that kind of issue before though.

All the best

Keith
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Paddy Blake
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PostPosted: 15:58 - 01 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

As a rule you need 6 theads and that looks to short.The base gaskit looks
like it is to thick.

Paddy.
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cestrian
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PostPosted: 16:12 - 01 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

That base gasket looks almost as thick as the 'Mitaka' lettering, wayyyy to thick.
Maybe I'm getting old but I've never seen a gasket like that before, and certainly never that thick.
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gavin
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PostPosted: 16:30 - 01 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

an old cheap tuning trick was to add a second or third base gasket, and assemble the head to the barrel with instant gasket to restore the squish, raising all the ports and getting more revs and power.

you should really only have one gasket in there. assemble the engine and measure the squish at at least 4 (preferably 8 ) points around the top of the piston, by feeding a length of solder in through the plug hole and turning the engine over by hand, so the piston squashes the solder. measure the thickness of the squashed solder with a digital vernier and take an average of the measurments. you should ideally be looking for about 0.7-0.9 mm, but it depends on the bike a bit, generally its smaller on smaller pistons and bigger on bigger pistons. but you should be ablke to find an appropriate squish clearance for your bike if you search.
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cagiva gezzer
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PostPosted: 16:31 - 01 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Download a manual. Rolling Eyes
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alien.46.uk
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PostPosted: 16:45 - 01 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

You've said that before cagiva and as i've said they dont have the manual for mine downloadable ... Probably because they're so rare or because they were never sold in the UK or something ...

Anyways, im pretty sure [now i know what it means] the squish is right, judged by eye and some feelwer gauges squished onto the top of the barrel ...

I dont know what to do about the barrel though ... Im pretty sure its right because it fits fine everywhere else although the gaskets were a little too big ...

It's just that fact that the bottom is soo god damn thick ... and wide ...


Luke.
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six
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PostPosted: 16:48 - 01 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

slightly off topic, but could anyone tell me what a gasket is? lol... I was just reading through and I don't have a clue what any of it is about! hehe

sorry for being thick!

Tom
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 16:58 - 01 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

The Aprilia manual tells you to use a pipette to measure the combustion chamber volume with the piston at TDC.

By the way, never knew this before but it seems that Haynes have finally got round to doing a manual:-

https://www.haynes.co.uk/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10001&storeId=10001&productId=38953&langId=-1

The Pegaso was imported to the UK (in small numbers) and the engine is basically the same as the AF1 / Tuareg / Tuareg Rally engines. Aprilia sold seperate manuals for the engine and for the rest of the bike (bike manuals are pretty rare).

gavin wrote:
an old cheap tuning trick was to add a second or third base gasket, and assemble the head to the barrel with instant gasket to restore the squish, raising all the ports and getting more revs and power.


The Rotax engines used in Aprilia 125s just use a rubber O ring to seal the head.

All the best

Keith
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 17:04 - 01 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can't have measured the squish until the whole lot is torqued down and the head is on. You certainly can't do it with a feeler guage.

As has been said, those base gaskets are WAY too thick. A thicker gasket increases the squish, a thinner one reduces it. Standard gasket paper is 0.4mm (roughly 1/64"). You can cut your own out using gasket paper or thin card.

With a brand new barrel and head, you'd only normally need one gasket. May need more if the head had been skimmed/lapped a fair bit.

So, you would need to fit it with ONE paper gasket. If you still don't have enough stud showing, contact the place that sold you the barrel and ask them about it because something has gone wrong somewhere, maybe their design needs slightly longer studs fitting? Once you have the barrel bolted down, fit the head.

The way I was taght to measure squish was to make a 'ring' of solder slightly smaller than the diameter of the bore and lay this on top of the piston. Then fit the head, torque it down, turn the engine over once by hand and remove the head again. Now measure the bit of solder. The thickness of the solder = the squish. Gavins technique sounds easier though.

If the squish is too small, fit another base gasket. If it is too big, skim a bit off the top of the barrel/head.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 17:08 - 01 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

roadbusters.com wrote:
slightly off topic, but could anyone tell me what a gasket is? lol... I was just reading through and I don't have a clue what any of it is about! hehe

sorry for being thick!

Tom


A gasket is a thin piece of paper, metal (usually copper), rubber or fibre that you sandwich between two pieces of metal to ensure they form a fluid/gas-tight seal when you clamp them together. The gasket deforms slightly as it is compressed to fill in any small gaps and irregularities between the two pieces of metal.
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six
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PostPosted: 17:12 - 01 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:


A gasket is a thin piece of paper, metal (usually copper), rubber or fibre that you sandwich between two pieces of metal to ensure they form a fluid/gas-tight seal when you clamp them together. The gasket deforms slightly as it is compressed to fill in any small gaps and irregularities between the two pieces of metal.


thanks a lot! Very Happy hehe
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alien.46.uk
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PostPosted: 17:21 - 01 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well i've taken them all off and put the smallest one on and there isn't even enough thread showing to fill up the bolt ...

Im going to get slightly stroppy with the company as i've asked them three times to clarify this is the right kit as i need this bike on it first run-in on Tuesday as from this week i cant get a lift to college anymore ...

Hmphh ... I even thought to myself last night [Whilst slightly pissed] that this was going too well because i was enjoying it too much ... Something always stops me ...

That haynes looks interesting Kickstart, i know its the same engine, but its a totally different bike, lol ... Think ill pass on that one and keep browsing for the Rotax 123 Manual then base the body on the old 650, lol as its the ame frame ... Also noticed the '98 ETX is vertually identical parts wise, so that isn't too bad ...

Anyway, ill give it another check and see whats going on, i think they've just made the base to thick as i dont think it being too wide will effect, might look odd and add weight, but internally it matches up ...


Rolling Eyes
Luke.
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cagiva gezzer
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PostPosted: 17:32 - 01 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.laverdaman.co.uk/

God knows what the bike is a mix of.

If you're not sure about how the two stroke engine is meant to work, take a look around sites like

https://www.eric-gorr.com/

www.macdizzy.com

Or buy one of the two stroke books - jennings / bells - .

Or, shock horror, ask on a Aprilia site?
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gavin
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PostPosted: 17:33 - 01 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

just spotted something odd about that barell.......usually the bolt lands (mating faces) are machined down a bit. this is done to locate the flange of the nut properly.

the ones on that barrell arent, and they dont even appear to be flat in relation to the studs. if that is the case, even if you get it to do up, the nuts wont sit right, they will touch one side first and bind on the threads. maybe you have a barell that didnt get fully machined Shocked
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Whosthedaddy
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PostPosted: 17:34 - 01 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

How does it compare to the old one?

If the gasket is much thicker then theres the problem as it does nt look a very good fit in my opinion, it does nt seem to follow the contours of the casings. Surley, like mentioned before, it should be paper thin, not several mm thick?

If the new part is the top end then is this different, as the studs in the existing block have not shrunk overnight and maybe the new part is not suitable for the bike.

Comparing new with old takes 2 minutes and will tell you insantly whether there will be problems Rolling Eyes
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Paddy Blake
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PostPosted: 17:36 - 01 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can you show us a picture of it with one gaskit on it as it may be possible
to lossen the bolts a bit where they go into the engine and so long as you
have a good amount at the engine end it could fit together.

I dont know what way that sounds to you maybe someone can say it right
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Whosthedaddy
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PostPosted: 17:38 - 01 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paddy Blake wrote:
Can you show us a picture of it with one gaskit on it as it may be possible
to lossen the bolts a bit where they go into the engine and so long as you
have a good amount at the engine end it could fit together.

I dont know what way that sounds to you maybe someone can say it right


The studs may be unscrewed slightly giving you more threads to tighten a bolt onto to Wink
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cagiva gezzer
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PostPosted: 17:41 - 01 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

alien.46.uk wrote:
.....Think ill pass on that one and keep browsing for the Rotax 123 Manual then base the body on the old 650, lol as its the (s)ame frame ... ....


You're gonna get far then.

Pegaso 650:

https://w1.bikepics.com/pics/2006%5C07%5C06%5Cbikepics-627477-full.jpg

Pegaso 125:

https://w1.bikepics.com/pics/2006%5C03%5C17%5Cbikepics-543008-full.jpg

Same name, very different bikes.
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Paddy Blake
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PostPosted: 17:45 - 01 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

The studs may be unscrewed slightly giving you more threads to tighten a nut onto to Wink[/quote]
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 17:45 - 01 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

gavin wrote:
just spotted something odd about that barell.......usually the bolt lands (mating faces) are machined down a bit. this is done to locate the flange of the nut properly.

the ones on that barrell arent, and they dont even appear to be flat in relation to the studs. if that is the case, even if you get it to do up, the nuts wont sit right, they will touch one side first and bind on the threads. maybe you have a barell that didnt get fully machined Shocked


Yeah, it doesn't mate-up with the crankcases very well, far too much overlap in some places and exposed mating surface in others. The gasket doesn't look like it was meant for either the barrel or the engine, doesn't extend to the edge of either. I'd normally expect the gasket to extend round all the studs, which it clearly doesn't.

This picture in particular looks distinctly ropy, huge gap under the barrel, no gasket round the stud. Make sure they sent you the right bits.

https://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a317/taazzukcb/Pegaso%20Re-Build/DSCN0072Medium.jpg
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gavin
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PostPosted: 18:12 - 01 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

makes me wonder if its for a different version of the rotax motor...
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