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Wiring in a 12v cigarette lighter

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Chiz
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Joined: 06 Nov 2005
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PostPosted: 20:47 - 24 Oct 2006    Post subject: Wiring in a 12v cigarette lighter Reply with quote

I'm planning on wiring in a 12v cigarette lighter as i don't have one at the mo (it's actually on a car but sshhh Silence )

I wondered whether i had to wire it through a fuse or just straight onto the battery, i'm not too hot on electrics, please explain in stupid talk.

Thanks,
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Davo
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PostPosted: 20:50 - 24 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fused most definately! Your risking a fire if not.

Easiest way to do it is run a wire straight from the battery to the back of the cigarette lighter socket, put a fuse as close as possible to the battery. That'll sort the positve power lead.

The ground lead just needs a lead taken from cigarette lighter socket to a piece of bare metal on the car.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 20:50 - 24 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Definately fused. Run a wire with an inline fuse direct from the battery.

On a c*r, you might even find that there is a spare fuse in the fusebox already that you can use.
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Chiz
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PostPosted: 20:54 - 24 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys,
How do i know what amp etc fuse to use?
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Davo
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PostPosted: 20:57 - 24 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chiz wrote:
Thanks guys,
How do i know what amp etc fuse to use?


It depends on what the wire that you use between battery & socket, cigarette lighter etc.. can take.

I only use a 5 amp fuse on my cigar lighter as all I use it for is charging my mobile phone.


Last edited by Davo on 21:54 - 24 Oct 2006; edited 1 time in total
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Chiz
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PostPosted: 21:42 - 24 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Right, thanks.
How do i know what the wire will take?
i was planning on using it for my ipod, but maybe whacking in a 1 - 3 adaptor so i can use it for my phone etc as well. Will i need a stronger wire than a standard one?
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Davo
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PostPosted: 21:48 - 24 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chiz wrote:
Right, thanks.
How do i know what the wire will take?
i was planning on using it for my ipod, but maybe whacking in a 1 - 3 adaptor so i can use it for my phone etc as well. Will i need a stronger wire than a standard one?


It's a calculation of the wire guage and length of the wire that determines what load you can place on it.

I'll try and find the table that you need to be able so that you can calculate the correct the correct guage to use.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 21:52 - 24 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, for example, if you want to actually use it as a cigarette lighter (essentially a lump of metal with a built-in short circuit) you'll need some pretty hefty wire. Some goes for using stuff like inverters and such.

If you're just running an ipod, you'll get away with thinner stuff.
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Chiz
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PostPosted: 21:56 - 24 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, i'll get a 12v socket and report back with pictures etc if that's ok.
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finpos
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PostPosted: 21:58 - 24 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can use science - look on the adaptors you plan to plug in, they will have a rating in amps written on them. Add together all the values. Choose a fuse rated at approx (bang goes the science) 2 times this figure, and the next grade up of wire.

e.g. total of all adaptors = 2.5A, fuse = 5A, wire = 10A.

finpos.
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syl
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PostPosted: 22:07 - 24 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Definately fused. Run a wire with an inline fuse direct from the battery.

On a c*r, you might even find that there is a spare fuse in the fusebox already that you can use.


If not, you can always use one from something else - the manufacturers sometimes do. I blew the fuse on an old Ford Orion I had and the clock stopped working - turned out that the electrics for the lighter and clock (and something else like the interior light) was shared.
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BFG
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PostPosted: 22:17 - 24 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

finpos wrote:
You can use science - look on the adaptors you plan to plug in, they will have a rating in amps written on them. Add together all the values. Choose a fuse rated at approx (bang goes the science) 2 times this figure, and the next grade up of wire.

e.g. total of all adaptors = 2.5A, fuse = 5A, wire = 10A.

finpos.

OK for wires but not for fuses.

Formula is I = W/V.
Or Amps = Watts divided by Voltage.
So 50 watts / 12v = 4.16A.
Round up to 5amp for fuse, use 10amp wire.

Other stuff. Use the red lead for positive and connect it to the centre of the cigarette lighter socket, not the outside. Make sure any cables will not rub against metal parts or you risk fire. For the same reason, don't put the fuse behind the dashboard, put it in the engine compartment. Smile
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Phil_G
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PostPosted: 00:09 - 25 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

is there a specific problem that can be encountered by just using a heavier gauge of cable than is strictly needed?
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Davo
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PostPosted: 00:18 - 25 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Phil_G wrote:
is there a specific problem that can be encountered by just using a heavier gauge of cable than is strictly needed?


I've not encountered any problems with it, apart from getting it through the engine bay bulkhead (less flexibility). I generally try and use the next step up (in thickness) than is required.

Back when I was into my car audio I used to run 0 guage cabling to my main distribution blocks.
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Phil_G
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PostPosted: 00:22 - 25 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Davo wrote:
Phil_G wrote:
is there a specific problem that can be encountered by just using a heavier gauge of cable than is strictly needed?


I've not encountered any problems with it, apart from getting it through the engine bay bulkhead (less flexibility). I generally try and use the next step up (in thickness) than is required.

Back when I was into my car audio I used to run 0 guage cabling to my main distribution blocks.


didnt think there would be, and I have always done it without hassle. I kind of prefer the idea of the cable being overspecced too tbh...

Its just a question Ive always sort of presumed the answer to, without actually asking.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 00:24 - 25 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Phil_G wrote:
is there a specific problem that can be encountered by just using a heavier gauge of cable than is strictly needed?


No. heavier = better. You would eventually run ito the problem that it is too thick to fit into the connectors properly.

Most it will ever be likely see is 15A though, anything more would be overloading the socket. As such, you could consider 2mm square cable to be more than sufficient.
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krebsy
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PostPosted: 09:18 - 25 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

When the wiring went on the Divvy due to water damage I just used a a spool of heavy ignition wire to re-connect everything up again. Let's see the water corrode that.. Smile.

K.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 18:55 - 25 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

krebsy wrote:
When the wiring went on the Divvy due to water damage I just used a a spool of heavy ignition wire to re-connect everything up again. Let's see the water corrode that.. Smile.

K.


Depends on how well you crimped the terminals on. The water only corrodes the wire if it manages to get up inside the insulation.
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krebsy
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PostPosted: 09:35 - 26 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh it was all well crimped, tightened, inserted, sealed in watertight casing with Sillicone and Duct Taped..., all with a dash of WD40 beforehande to keep the moisture out... Smile..

K.
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R1stu
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PostPosted: 12:12 - 26 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ive just fitted one to the R1 Very Happy

Got an extension from Halfords, remove from the connector and soldierd on an inline fuse from a car stereo system. at the end of this I soliderd on some 8mm ring connections from halfords/motorworld to connect to the battery.

Its a coil wire i threaded it under the subframe out through the gear selector shaft and behind the fairing.

Ran it though the stay and behind the clocks, then used some velcro to stick it to the dash.

This way I can move it and cover it easy when washing the bike.

The only thing im thinking of now is a switch along it, as it seems to drain the batt some. (maybe damp causing it to short?)

its the same for a car, just use 10mm ringconnectors if your going to the batt.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 17:41 - 26 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

R1stu wrote:

The only thing im thinking of now is a switch along it, as it seems to drain the batt some. (maybe damp causing it to short?)


Have a look at methods current thread on heated grips. Use a relay in the same way and your socket will only be 'live' when the ignition is switched on.

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=98697
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The last post was made 19 years, 153 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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