Clutchless Upshift

[veeeffarr]

Just been out practising my clutchless upshift on my GS500e after reading some threads in work at lunch.

Have found that when I get to about 8,500rpm if I back off a TINY amount on the throttle (say about 1/2mm) I can just nudge up the box without any force whatsoever.

Am I doing things right? (Ignoring the embarassing kangaroos a few times).

Seems worth doing, as it's fast as fuck clutchless.

[Whosthedaddy]

[.....]

Sounds about right. Back off the throttle a bit more to ease up on the kangarooing

[Zimbo]

Yes you're doing it just right I'd say

[veeeffarr]

I find if I back off too much then it won't go up the box at all, hence the kangaroos

If the gear just slots straight in with no force I can't see a down point to it to be honest... It's a £700 bike anyway and if it goes bang then it gives me that bit more justification to walk into the dealers with my £2500 finance limit and get something I really want

[edd]

If you slightly weight the pedal with your foot before backing off the throttle it will drop in without you having to time anything. Then just throttle on again as soon as it moves.
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Bluespark Automotive - Diesel Tuning for Performance and Economy

[feef]

[edd]

Yeah im aware of the "club footedness" problem causing selector forks to bend. Im not talking about using much force at all here, or any length of time, just enough that you can feel the box with your foot go from heavy to light as you back off. This method might wear selector forks over time. I've never had a problem with it as yet but Ive not really had one bike in one peice on the road long enough to notice.
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Bluespark Automotive - Diesel Tuning for Performance and Economy

[Finglonga]

[ncrn]

I've found that as long as your revs are increasing, you can upchange no problem what so ever, so I just give it a little extra throttle then kick up and it goes straight in every time. Im not sure if this is similar for a bigger bike I am only on 2T 125.
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Past: 55 Sym Jet, 91 ZZR250, 03 NSR125R. Present: 97 ER-5.
https://www.nsr125.co.uk - NSR Owners forum.

[Cog Head]

i found out by accident when i first got my mito was bladdering it down the duel carrige way and went to change up just before the redline and missed the clutch. it was great, there was a sudden power surge where theye usually isnt one, i was kinda shocked, but got HUUUUUGE grin factor off it, dont do it too often tho cus i can imagine everything in the gear box is being bashed about
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Rieju RS2 50cc MATRIX Race Replica - Cagiva Mito 125 - VFR400 NC30
LukeVFR: Cog Head is a Karma whore
McGee: Hence I smell like a gimp

[Finglonga]

[McGee]

I love doing it as it sounds amazing.

You just get a constant almost GTA style engine noise.
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Its pronounced Jixxer!

[befdelta7]

have never done it tbh, dont want to cause any damage to my bike as its a j-reg 1992 and knowing my luck it would go boom!

might try it sometime next week when im back on the road (insurance reason ... or rather lack of insurance )
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Dont do a wheelie in front of a traffic copper... it gets you 3pts and £220 fine.

[Davo]

I do it all the time on my road bikes although on the CB-1 did get into a bad habit of using the rev limiter to allow me to clutchless upshift

[ncrn]

[veeeffarr]

Ok my bike makes peak power at 8,000rpm (From the Dynograph)

I've perfected my technique so it only takes me about 1/4 of a second to change gear, if that... my revs drop by about 1,000 in each gear, so should I change at about 9,000?

Cheers,

T

[alone]

Toby - I'd assume that's your best bet.

My bike really kicks into life at 10,500rpm and redlines at 12,500rpm... So when out enjoying myself I tend to ride the bike right in the 'zone'. The only problem is I don't have much play left in the gear, instead it's just very responsive- Which is alright if you know the road and can clearly see ahead.
This reminds me, I really need to ask someone about getting my bike set up a bit better!
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Bikes; '06 Triumph Sprint ST 1050 (for sale) - '95 BMW R1100GS

[johnsilva]

I ride 20,000 miles a year mainly in town, and i very rarely use the clutch to change up, and sometimes i dont use it go change down either, but timing has to be spot on with that!

Clutchless changes are fine, and are no more likely to damage your gearbox than if you did use the clutch.

HOWEVER

Timing is critical!

The risk of bad timing is higher with out the cluctch.D'oh!
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Current Bikes: ZX7R P5; KR1S C2; GPX250R F3
Previously: CBR400RR-R; YQ50 Aerox

[Finglonga]

[ncrn]

[Finglonga]

Not shut the throttle as such, just ease off enough to release the load on the gearbox and get engine and gearbox to the same speed for the new selected gear. Ease off too much and it will still clunk into place as the engine will be spinning too slow.

HTH.
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Andy Sez....
F.Y.Y.F.F.

[JonB]

I rarely clutchlessly shift cause i've got into the habit of using the clutch. Oh well.
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Be careful whose advice you buy, but, be patient with those who supply it. Advice is a form of nostalgia, dispensing it is a way of fishing the past from the disposal, wiping it off, painting over the ugly parts and recycling it for more than it?s worth.

[Finglonga]

[Pete.]

CLutchless shifting depends a lot on the bike - some bike gearboxes lend themselves to it and others dont. My gixxer 600 will clutchless-shift either way with ease, though I only do it shifting up. My 'busa on the other hand needs a much heavier foot to shift gear, and clutchless shifts can be a bit of a chore and result in missed gears. I put this down to the immensely strong gearbox - the gear are quite heavy and have much more intertis than the gixxer box so changes are slower.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good