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fitting a 12v socket?

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mattjs895
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PostPosted: 18:16 - 10 May 2007    Post subject: fitting a 12v socket? Reply with quote

i'm tepted to try to fit a 12v socket to my bike, but not straight from the battery, i would like to wire it between light switch and the main headlight so it will only work once the lights as on, which is pretty much all of the time...

is this a simple thing to do, as in will i need any fuses put in as well.

any help appreciated

cheers

matt
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Finglonga
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PostPosted: 19:27 - 10 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

You must run it from the battery as the extra load will fry your loom. You can switch it using the wire from the headlight so that it only comes on when the lights are on or from a live feed when the ignition is on.

Also you must use a fuse and placed as close to the battery as possible, as if anything goes wrong, again you will fry your loom.

Also use a BMW type socket and plugs as they have waterproof covers. Wink
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mattjs895
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PostPosted: 19:53 - 10 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

and how would this be done, as it switching it from the headlight switch..
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Finglonga
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PostPosted: 20:25 - 10 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Replace the spotlights with a 12v socket on the pic below and just tap into the feed for the headlight where is says "main beam switch" if you do go from the main beam switch then it will only come on with the main beam. I would suggest the sidelight would be the best option

https://www.offroaders.com/images/projects/lightforce/wiring-diag.gif
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Hairy Ben
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PostPosted: 20:26 - 10 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finglonga wrote:

Also use a BMW type socket and plugs as they have waterproof covers. Wink



BMW type DIN auxilliary power socket

Cigarette lighter socket kit

You can also buy adapters so you can use something that needs a cigarette lighter style socket in a DIN style socket... Witness Hairy B sitting reading a book in a carpark on his last camping trip while his phone charged from the Bimler. Laughing
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JGY6000
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PostPosted: 22:31 - 10 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v142/Gonzo2053/bandit07012Medium1.jpg

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v142/Gonzo2053/jopeg.jpg
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Jammy-R6
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PostPosted: 22:43 - 10 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why dont you just mount a seperate rocker switch somewhere, then it wont be a bugger when you turn your ignition off for sat nav etc. Much easier and you dont have to tamper with your loom.
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kawakid
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PostPosted: 22:47 - 10 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finglonga wrote:
Replace the spotlights with a 12v socket on the pic below and just tap into the feed for the headlight where is says "main beam switch" if you do go from the main beam switch then it will only come on with the main beam. I would suggest the sidelight would be the best option

https://www.offroaders.com/images/projects/lightforce/wiring-diag.gif



Why use the main beam?

This is normally accessible at the front of the bike meaning cables running to the back. I did something like this on the ER5 . And now I'm like why the .. did I do that.

One thing to note about using the lights to provide a feed, is that the "main beam" goes off on some bikes as soon as you go to full beam. (That's why there is 3 pins on bulbs, the other element comes on) So you should hack your side light as this is always on.

The next time I used the live feed to the rear brake light. But on reflection this is stupid, if this ever failed and someone didn't see you brake.

So I've now come to the opinion (and I have done this on my Z) , is to use the rear number plate light. I think that's the safest bet. Obviously connect it up to a relay and fuse.

Don't link anything unless really small amps , directly to anything on the bike without using a relay or you'll fry your circuits.
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mr.z
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PostPosted: 23:04 - 10 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

What are you running off the accessory plug?
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iooi
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PostPosted: 23:21 - 10 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why not use the horn circuit.
It's switched, does not get used that much, so should you have problems its not vital in the dark.
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Finglonga
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PostPosted: 11:29 - 11 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

kawakid wrote:


Why use the main beam?



Head light or side light, thats just a Googled image I found, as I said if you used the main beam then power would only be live when its on. Thumbs Up
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feef
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PostPosted: 11:39 - 11 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finglonga wrote:
kawakid wrote:


Why use the main beam?



Head light or side light, thats just a Googled image I found, as I said if you used the main beam then power would only be live when its on. Thumbs Up


when you say Main beam, I assume you mean dipped beam, and not full beam (which is what I would associate the term 'main beam' with)

a
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Demonic69
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PostPosted: 11:48 - 11 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good plan, running a lighter socket while your lights are on...
Why would you want all that drain on such a small battery?
My lighter socket cost £3.50 for socket, wire, switch and in-line fuse. I had one switch that turned on/off when the seat was removed too but I liked having the phone on charge while I rode Very Happy
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Finglonga
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PostPosted: 18:26 - 11 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

feef wrote:


when you say Main beam, I assume you mean dipped beam, and not full beam (which is what I would associate the term 'main beam' with)

a


Its my shit ass way of explaining it. Embarassed

NOT MAIN BEAM! Use dipped beam or side light or any switched feet to activate the relay. A fuse is a must on the main lead from the battery.
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R1stu
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PostPosted: 19:08 - 11 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ive got one on the R1, straight to the batt, with a fuse in line and then a rocker switch attached to the sub frame.
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mattjs895
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PostPosted: 19:28 - 11 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

cheers for all your help guys, i have now managed to put a 12v socket onto my bike, i did the way jose said and made another circuit with a rocker switch.

cheers

matt
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Molly
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PostPosted: 20:35 - 11 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've done this. Smile. If I remember correctly I wired it directly to the battery via a fuse. I did it this way because I wanted to be able to plug an Optimate type charger into it.
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Gazdaman
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PostPosted: 21:20 - 11 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Surely if you charge something whilst riding you're going to cause problems because the voltage goes up to around 13.5-14.5v?

Or is that not enough to cause a problem?

I bought one to install on the bandit when I was planning to tour spain, never got around to it. Still have various car chargers for my various devices laying around though.

Gaz
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Finglonga
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PostPosted: 11:00 - 12 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Molly wrote:
I've done this. Smile. If I remember correctly I wired it directly to the battery via a fuse. I did it this way because I wanted to be able to plug an Optimate type charger into it.


That's the way I charge my R1150GS when it needs a boost, but I have heard horror stories of people trying to jump start through a accessory socket. Mucho smoke and burning smell . . . Shocked
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Syx
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PostPosted: 01:37 - 13 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gazdaman wrote:
Surely if you charge something whilst riding you're going to cause problems because the voltage goes up to around 13.5-14.5v?


I found this to be a problem when installing a permanent camera system that needed a 12v supply. Whilst it was apparently "ok" to wire it directly to the battery, the extra voltage was not something I was willing to risk - so I built a regulator. Pretty simple if you've got any electrical knowledge, and there's plenty of examples on the 'net. I also built a converter to get a 5v output for the recorder, which was again surprisingly simple. It's a little large though, taking up a large amount of my underseat space, so I need to look into a way of making it smaller. Perhaps a little better organisation the the board might help!

https://img99.imageshack.us/img99/8881/1001368ds2.th.jpg
(Note: Ignore the heatsink in that pic - once the power resistors were added it was no longer needed!)
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 10:06 - 13 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Run it off the starter relay.
That handles more power than owt else and only on when key is in.
Make sure you insulate competently.
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