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er5, reg.rec problem, can any of you chaps provide me with..

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shleppy
Nova Slayer



Joined: 21 Nov 2006
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PostPosted: 19:18 - 11 Jun 2007    Post subject: er5, reg.rec problem, can any of you chaps provide me with.. Reply with quote

a solution:

heres the problem - the kawasaki er5 has a problem, the reg.rec blows, but thats not all, when it goes, and this seems to be a common problem on all years of er5, it bypass' fuses and blows nearly all the electrics, the only way to prevent this at the moment is to spot the signs of it going before it goes.

becuase its the reg.rec im not sure if i could just solder in a fuse or resistor in there, cause i still want it to perform its task, but there must be a solution to this, why dont other bikes have this problem?

aparently the reg.rec malfunctions in the first place becuase of its positioning, under the bike behind the wheel, so it gets covered in road dirt, and then overheats ect, so ive thought about moving it but id really prefer to have the comfort knowing i have some protection for my electrics.

ill post up my bikes haynes circuit diagram and hope one of the more gifted electrically minded people can give me some good ideas.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 20:36 - 11 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Never heard of this as a problem.

They DO have a problem with corrosion on the wire running from main fuse to the bikes live feed (usually white, as on the attached diagram). It's gone on all three 500 twins I've owned

This causes a bad connection and essentially stops the battery both charging and feeding the electrics. I could see how this intermittantly making and breaking contact could confuse the hell out of the reg/rec and eventually cook it.

The reg/rec feeds in after the main fuse for some reason.

I would imagine fitting an additional 30A fuse where I've marked it in yellow on the attached diagram would protect the loom in the case of the reg/rec spiking the output too high.

If you're having trouble with it eating reg/recs though, check that wire at both ends for signs of corrosion, especially inside the main fuse holder attached to the starter solenoid.
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hmmmnz
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Joined: 22 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: 23:34 - 11 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

as above. Thumbs Up
if you still have a problem.
then move the little bastard, contrary to popular belief, motorcycle manufactures don't know it all. place it in a position not too far from the alternator with plenty of air flow around it and away from salt filled muddy road slag.
have fun Thumbs Up Thumbs Up
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Ade
Nitrous Nuisance



Joined: 19 Sep 2006
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PostPosted: 00:05 - 12 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

or get a hugger Very Happy

Does seem to be a fairly common problem on the Er-5s, thankfully mine is ok (than agin, with only 6k on the clock, you'd think so Wink )

Ade
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davidimurray
Nitrous Nuisance



Joined: 04 Jul 2006
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PostPosted: 08:57 - 12 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, it's fairly common on the ER5s - but only if you rev them a lot! My brother in law has had dozens and dozens of them and only ever had 1 reg/rec fail (training school).

Putting a fuse in may help but I thought it was the voltage that was the problem. When the reg goes it tends to start spitting out silly voltages - when mine went it gave 18V at idle that rose with the revs! I could smell the battery boiling!

Once the voltage gets high enough I think it then kills the reg on the rev counter circuit and blows the bulbs.
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kawakid
World Chat Champion



Joined: 15 Mar 2005
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PostPosted: 08:51 - 13 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've had a regulator go on my ER5 earlier this year.

I noticed after light bulbs blown after just swapping them.

You need a multimeter, to test , I think mine went up to 19v when
it went.

I had lots of problems when I ordered a replacement, because it came with totally different connector than what was on the ER5.

See this post https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=105520&highlight=

Basically you need to make sure they supply you with the correct connector, or its a major arse. ie they expected me to cut in to the loom and cut the terminal block of the new rectifier (yeahh right, what if it doesn't work and they didn't supply me with a wiring diagram).

Make sure you get the right connector.

The other issue I had was bolts broke as I tried to take it out and I had to take it to a garage to remove the bolts. (Cost me £20 they used some chemical to get them out).

Remember a fuse only protects you about amps not voltage. So its not going to do anything to help with a rectifier fault.
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shleppy
Nova Slayer



Joined: 21 Nov 2006
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PostPosted: 19:40 - 16 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

after looking for voltage protection, there was a circuit i found which basically shorted out itself when a high voltage came along, and i also found another alternative, has anyone used a voltage dependant resistor before?

i have now realised a fuse wouldnt do anything.
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bugsy46
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Joined: 16 Mar 2004
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PostPosted: 20:04 - 16 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

well thats the job of the reg rec, a series of diodes and gates to short too high voltage to earth to mantain a safe charge rate to the battery. Check the wire that runs from the reg rec to the battery, if this is corroded then the power will back up and blow the reg rec. Stinkwheel quote me on this matey, iv seen it on blackbirds
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sickpup
Old Timer



Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 13:00 - 17 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

bugsy46 wrote:
well thats the job of the reg rec, a series of diodes and gates to short too high voltage to earth to mantain a safe charge rate to the battery. Check the wire that runs from the reg rec to the battery, if this is corroded then the power will back up and blow the reg rec. Stinkwheel quote me on this matey, iv seen it on blackbirds


The job of a Reg/Rec is to rectify the voltage supplied by an alternator from AC-DC by using the Diode bridge(?) to do away with half the wave form (ah remember the fun with oscilloscope's?) and then allow the 3 phases on the other wave form to provide a near constant supply. The regulator part regulates the current down to whatever the bike requires, 14ish volts. The output from an alternator is often upto 60 volts AC.

Excess power is converted to heat and bled off via the heat fins not bled to earth, it can't be bled to earth as virtually all vehicles made in the last 30 years run a negative earth system not positive.

Now as to Shleppy's question.

The ER-5 just like the late 90's Fireblade uses a resistor in the bottom of the ignition switch to lower the voltage to the CDI below 12 volts, I think its about 9 volts. I've got a feeling this is a crude anti-theft device as if you try to bypass the ignition switch you then blow the CDI, very crude. As the Tacho is in turn fed by the CDI you get a kind of domino effect when the reg/rec blows as you are aware.

I'm not sure if a work around of any type is a good idea as it would possibly make the bike a lot easier to hot wire.
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sickpup
Old Timer



Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 19:14 - 17 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

bugsy46 wrote:


Ive never heard such shit in all my life.

I shall give you a lesson in regulator rectifiers my friend



I'm not your friend. I look forward to this.

bugsy46 wrote:


The reason for a reg/rec having fins is to disipate heat.



Said that.

bugsy46 wrote:


This is because they use semiconductors.



Well yes diodes are semi conductors.

bugsy46 wrote:


SINGLE PHASE HALF WAVE RECTIFICATION



Most bikes use a 3 phase Alternator, that's why they have 3 lives off of the alternator, gives a smoothish supply after the half wave rectification..

bugsy46 wrote:


Uses a diode to convert AC to DC. Outputs positive half cycles. Used on small bikes with low load

INTERNAL VOLTAGE REGULATION

Current from the coil is regulated through 1 diode, and then fed to the battery. The voltage is regulated by the reg circuit and an SCR. as the RPM increases, the alternator output does as well and is rectified by another diode, this current then goes to a zenor diode. The current flows in the normal direction but not reverse until a certain voltage is applied. When it has, the ZD conducts it in the reverse, thus turning the SCR on. When it turns on, the output from the alternator is shorted to ground through the SCR, this obviously explains why a battery over charges if there is a bad earth.

Now, sickpup, go back to your haynes manual and when you know something about charging systems come back and pour advice to people who need it. Your post had me in stitches because it confirms you know jack shit.

Night x


Now you are right I didn't mention zenor diodes but I did a pretty simplified version. Also must say I've never known a reg/rec to throw positive to earth either but I'm happy to be wrong.

As to corrosion in the circuit it introduces resistance so the reg/rec pulls more power from the alternator(which has to work harder so produces more heat and as you no doubt know the enemy of all SCR's is heat especially excess heat as well as hot/cold/hot cycling.

Your explanation of what the Zenor Diode does is not very good either. A zenor like all diodes only allows flow in one direction however when the voltage on one side becomes higher than a pre-set value it can reverse flow as well. I will admit I didn't know it dumps it to earth, still don't from your explanation I do know it dissipates excess charge as heat.

You sleep well Bugsy, where do you want me to send the GCSE textbooks to?

<edit>As I write this I realise yes excess power is probably bled to earth creating heat, needs to go somewhere.<edit>
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