Buying Cat C bike

[SoulRider]

Well at the end of the month me and coronaboner are hoping to buy a CAT C write of for use as track bike and possibly make road legal.

The one thing we really need to know how to check is frame damage, is there anything we need to look for or can do to check its aligned properly. We only get the chance to check the damage on the day of auction. To me in the pictures it looks like its not but what do you lot think?

We will be replacing the fairings with track ones and the amount of damage were not to fused as it will be a project we aim to be ready next summer. Plus its a good way for me to start learning bike mechanics. The basics at least.
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My Bike Pics

[Jamie S]

It's a start I suppose , if you are going to use it on a track this means your life depends on that bike being 100% solid , if you are not sure how to check the structural integrity of the frame ect then pay to have it done by a professional.

[SoulRider]

I only get to check the bike the morning of the auction so i need some ways of checking that its pretty well intact, checking for obvious signs of damage etc so i can be fairly reassured the frame is ok.
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[0ddball]

The fact that it's a cat c is a pretty good indication that there is no frame damage but don't take it as solid proof because from pics people have posted on here, it's clear the assessors don't always get it right.

Sit on the bike and compress the forks. If it feels ok and the forks are straight and true it's likely the frame is ok.

Try to guess how the crash happened as that will give you hints of where to look for damage. That looks like it's flipped or run into the back of a lorry/truck.
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ZXR750L

[SoulRider]

To me it looks like it was a wheelie gone horribly wrong, not sure if there is fork damage though, so if there is i will have to pay extra attention to how it feels.

Still no bids on it so fingers crossed we can get it, will need fair bit of work but as long as frame is allright i dont mind to much. I will have a good sit on it when we check it and check the frame over for any obvious signs of damage. Hopefully will be good.

Im guessing if we want it road legal we have to have the frame checked or will that be done in MOT?
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[Gazdaman]

Looking at the general condition of that bike I'd put money on the frame being straight.

And as said, cat C usually indicates fairly serious cosmetic damage, but cosmetic only.

IMO that bike's a bit good to be a track bike. Looks like it could be perfect without too much monitary input.

Gaz

[Jamie S]

How much you think it will go for ?

[SoulRider]

Not sure, hopefully not much due to the amount of cosmetic damage, we will have around £600 to bid on it, if i could afford it myself would love to get it road worthy and replace my SV with it.
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[Barry_M2]

That doesn't look in too bad nick, just headlights and clocks etc... few hundred quid to get it up to track spec.

Wouldn't mind that myself actually, quick fancy trying a V-twin 1000 on the track.
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ZXR750R (M2) - For the road.
CBR1000 RR4 - For the track.
https://www.bikechatforums.com/profile.php?mode=viewprofile&u=4332

[Misc]

I doubt it'd go for £600, my 2000 R6 went for £900 & that was a Cat C with similar damage, maybe worse.
And being an Aprilia i'm guessing they're not cheap.

[SoulRider]

Can only hope on the day theres not much interrest.
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[Misc]

Should try & make the seller an offer, is it on ebay?

[SoulRider]

Nope salvage yard, going to have to wait till the auction day and see if were lucky.
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[Barry_M2]

Where abouts is the salvage yard mate, and how often do they have auctions?


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ZXR750R (M2) - For the road.
CBR1000 RR4 - For the track.
https://www.bikechatforums.com/profile.php?mode=viewprofile&u=4332

[SoulRider]

Sandy mate, i believe they have auctions every couple of months.
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[0ddball]

The price of salvage is extortionate these days. Being such a new bike i'd guess it will go for £1500. If you do get it for £600 it will be the bargain of the century.
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ZXR750L

[element]

[Chriss]

Any written off vehicle would need a VIC check.
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TheShaggyDA: I've got 3 or 4 pairs that predate my wife, so at least 11.5 years old.

[Jamie S]

Category A - Must be crushed. All of it.
Category B - Vehicle may not be returned to road. Parts may be sold.
Category C - Repairable. Possibly structural damage. Cost of damage (at dealer prices and labour rates) is more than book value of vehicle.
Category D - Repairable. Probably non-structural damage. May have been economic to repair, but insurer doesn't want to.
Category X - Repairable. Minor damage.

In more detail for what your looking at :

Category C - Repairable salvage. Usually applies to vehicles with significant (structural) damage, where cost of repairs exceeds book value. Can be sold complete to Trade or Public. Recorded as "Category C" at DVLA. Category C vehicles' V5 documents are returned to DVLA. You re-apply, to DVLA or at your local VRO, for registration on the original identity once you have fixed it up, MOT'd it and want to Tax it. Re-registration removes the Category C classification, but evidence it was at one time Category C remains on the vehicle's record at DVLA (and HPI and AA and the others).

There is a difference between cars (and presumably vans, lorries, caravanettes..) and bikes when re-registering. Motorcycles do not need a VIC inspection, cars do.

Cars (and vans...) sold for repair but must now have VIC inspection before returning to the road.

Category D - Repairable salvage. Minimal damage, probably not structural, but insurer does not want to repair, even though it might be economic to do so. Often stolen and recovered after claim has been paid. Or for unusual models or Grey imports where the difficulty of obtaining new parts hinders a quick repair. Does not need VIC inspection to return to road. Recorded with HPI, AA, and the like.



Ref to VIC Checks :

VIC inspection - Straight from VOSA's web site "[The VIC] will involve comparing the vehicle presented against information held by DVLA, such as the vehicle identification number, make, model, colour and engine number. The VIC will also compare the record of previous accident damage with evidence of damage repair as well as checking other components to confirm the age and identity of the vehicle."
Officially, the VIC does not check road worthiness. If any significant defects are present, they can prevent it being used, but it is not a check of vehicle condition or road worthiness. VIC tests centers in major towns.


Hope this helps.

[veeeffarr]

You don't need a VIC check on bikes.

[Syx]

[Chriss]

I stand corrected.
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TheShaggyDA: I've got 3 or 4 pairs that predate my wife, so at least 11.5 years old.

[gixernick]

I reckon closer to £2000 for that one, before you bid get an idea of prices Aprilia are silly money for Mille bits £60 + VAT for brake lever.
I reckon trade salvage £600 will get you about Nreg 600cc.Two years ago I paid £1000 for a 750 SRAD Cat D with a bit less damage than that.

[Barry_M2]

[veeeffarr]

Jesus Jamie will you stop with the karma bashing just because someone downrates your posts? I rated your as off topic as it seemed mainly geared towards cars and gave inaccurate information, why was mine OT?