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Modifying Yamahas powervalve system YPVS

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Dischord
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Joined: 08 May 2005
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PostPosted: 19:21 - 05 Nov 2007    Post subject: Modifying Yamahas powervalve system YPVS Reply with quote

It's very difficult to tune the powervalve exactly how you want and I recall someone saying before they used to operate the powervalve via a bicycle gear changer mounted on the bars. I'm not sure if this is true to all YPVS systems but on the DT125 in stock form it doesn't open more than about 1/4 - 1/2 way when flat out.

Now this sounds like a really cool idea to me, keep the valve closed for town riding and then the second you hit the B roads / dual carriageway open the valve up for more top end grunt.

Has anyone tried anything like this before? would it even work or where they bullshitting? I think I could open the valve via a lever but having it return to the closed position is another thing entirely, would have to sort it out with a spring somehow.

Any ideas? would be interesting as you could switch from 15hp to 20+hp instantly!
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Last edited by Dischord on 20:06 - 06 Nov 2007; edited 1 time in total
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G
The Voice of Reason



Joined: 02 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 19:40 - 05 Nov 2007    Post subject: Re: Modifying Yamahas YPVS powervalve system Reply with quote

The powervalve servo on my CRM was dodgy.

Until I got a replacement I just had the wires sticking out by the tank.
So I pulled on one if I wanted more top-end power or the other if I wanted more midrange power.

Personally, I'd look at a way of making the system work properly in the first place.

For road use, I'd go with top end over midrange all the time, if I had to choose.

An old-style racing bike gear changer would probably do the trick; reckon you could probably mount a cable each side so you've got the return as well.
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Dischord
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PostPosted: 19:47 - 05 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Interesting G, I didn't really consider using 2 levers - one for return! Thinking about it though that sounds like the simplest way of doing it.

My riding style varies quite a bit, I like to pull wheelies and go up the mountains so torque is pretty useful there but don't want to be left with 60MPH top-end DT125! Very Happy

I reckon I could make a custom bracket and mount the 2 levers somewhere apart from the bars, so I could use the stock cables instead of extending them?
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G
The Voice of Reason



Joined: 02 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 21:02 - 05 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was thinking of a single one with a cable mounted the other way for the return, however you could use two too.

If you mounted them lower down you could use the original cables.

Oh and your title reads:
>>Yamahas YPVS powervalve system<<
which is
>>Yamahas Yamaha PowerValve System powervalve system<< Very Happy
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Kickstart
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Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 22:18 - 05 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

The lever on the bars for the power valve was a cheap bodge solution. Sold because it was far cheaper than the proper power valve kit from Yamaha.

Opening the valve further is not going to make the bike quicker. Effectively all it would do is start to close again. It is a half cylinder, and in the open position the engine side of the half cylinder will be flush with the top of the exhaust port. Open it further and the back end will just start to come down into the exhaust port.

Exactly the same as if you tried to open a throttle throttle butterfly beyond fully open.

All the best

Keith
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 22:24 - 05 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would appreciate the subtle irony if you used an old-style ignition advance lever (as fitted to pre 1950's motorbikes) to work your powervalve. It would have a similar effect too.
https://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/motorcycle/photolevers/w83005.jpg
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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firefox
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PostPosted: 01:27 - 06 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

why dont you just put an electric one on ?
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Dischord
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PostPosted: 20:05 - 06 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

It already has an electric one, it's just a load of crap Razz

@G - cheers for that, guess I better change it lol never knew what it stood for! Very Happy

@Stinkwheel - I think people would probably mistake that for a bell Laughing

@Kickstart - I was under the impression it was a simply a valve that controls how big the exhaust port is? If I adjusted the 2 pulleys on the servo I saw massive gains in power and speed. Just thought a bike lever would be a quicker way of adjusting it instead of getting the spanners out every 5mins?
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Kickstart
The Oracle



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PostPosted: 23:47 - 06 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dischord wrote:
@Kickstart - I was under the impression it was a simply a valve that controls how big the exhaust port is? If I adjusted the 2 pulleys on the servo I saw massive gains in power and speed. Just thought a bike lever would be a quicker way of adjusting it instead of getting the spanners out every 5mins?


It is, and a servo motor is an even quicker way of adjusting it! Its main purpose it to effectively alter the exhaust port timing. You should not see any gains beyond it being set up correctly (although it is perfectly possible to have it only work on half the valve, it is split and just has a locating pin in the middle).

In its open position it should be producing best power. Adjusting the cable should give no more power at all.

Possible that a UK market restricted bike has a power valve control unit that does something silly at the revs go up.

All the best

Keith
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dougon2wheels
Nitrous Nuisance



Joined: 28 Feb 2006
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PostPosted: 19:29 - 07 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
Dischord wrote:
@Kickstart - I was under the impression it was a simply a valve that controls how big the exhaust port is? If I adjusted the 2 pulleys on the servo I saw massive gains in power and speed. Just thought a bike lever would be a quicker way of adjusting it instead of getting the spanners out every 5mins?


It is, and a servo motor is an even quicker way of adjusting it! Its main purpose it to effectively alter the exhaust port timing. You should not see any gains beyond it being set up correctly (although it is perfectly possible to have it only work on half the valve, it is split and just has a locating pin in the middle).

In its open position it should be producing best power. Adjusting the cable should give no more power at all.

Possible that a UK market restricted bike has a power valve control unit that does something silly at the revs go up.

All the best

Keith


keith is correct,peak power(and peak port size)are when the valve is at the top of the travel,any futher and the port is closed down again,stick to using the servo and make sure that its set up correctly.........remove the exhaust,turn ignition on and feel up the port and make sure the powervalve feels flush with the port,if not adjust the cables and try again.
i run tuned engines on both my tdr250's and the mito 350,the tuning work includes porting the powervalve so the port is efectivly larger when the valve is open,it may be worth having a top endy tune put on the barrel if you want engine that goes like a switch.
but for me a peaky bike is no use on the road what so ever,try riding a standard stroker 250/350 with the powervalves wedged open,awful Shocked
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Dischord
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PostPosted: 19:38 - 07 Nov 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's why I wanted a quick way to open and close the powervalve - with a lever for example Razz

Like you say with the valve wide open the bike doesn't want to move unless it's over 8k or so and is almost fighting against you under that. Yet with it closed it has plenty of torque but basically no powerband at all.

Would be cool to pull off the mountain, flip a lever and have the bike ready to hit the roads without getting off and adjusting the cables!
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