Suzuki Rg125, what to do? *The Restoration has begun!*

[twotakt]

Hi all,

I was thinking about buying a N reg Suzuki Rg125f Gamma off the mrs' uncle. He has limited knowledge about bikes but said the bike was off the road due to a broken power valve (which from my reading is a regular problem with these bikes). When the ignition is turned on the servo tries to move but can't, as if its jammed. However I forgot to give the bike a kick to check if there is any compression.

My question is, if the power valve has broken what other damage could this cause? i.e. damage to piston, cylinder head, barrell and/or the bottom end

If the power valve isn't broken what else could have caused the problem?

Also, if any of these problems have occured what is the likely cost for replacement parts (in particular the powervalves, but I found a pattern new set on ebay fo £73 made by Anguila in Sheffield, anyone have any experience with these?).
Finally, if any damage has occurred on the barell can I get it rebored? As I'm aware with some 125cc 2t sports bikes which are ?Nicksail? plated which can only be replated or totally replaced.

He has asked £100 for the bike, considering all of this is it worth it? (I will be undertaking the work with my Dad and myself).

Cheers,
Jack
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R.I.P. Tareree Shiimi, 1985-2008

[bladerunner]

Yes the powervalves are the weak point with the Later RG's. As well as the VJ22 RGV250's. The pattern powervalves you've seen on the net are really just blanks which act as if the powervalves are fully open so you lose your mid range but better than nothing.

If the valve has hit the piston bad then chances are it will have damaged the piston and bore as well. The RG and RGV's cant be rebored as the run nicosil plated bores but they can be welded up and replated but it's not cheap £100 for a replate and £20 if it needs welding.

You can fit RGV 250 barrels and pistons which are quite easy to come across and the 250's run the 125 pistons these days as they are a bit better anyhow.

If you do go the 250 replacement top end you'll find the tuning a little better than the std bore as they detuned the 125's a bit to give them a little extra torque. Not needed on the 250's as they were running twice the engine anyhow. I've seen a few of them done like this and .......They sure do fly!!

Good luck if you do get it and I'd have thought that for £100 if you price up the bits needed you should be onto a winner
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Current bikes...cbr929, KDX200's, Rd125lc mk2, RGV250's

[twotakt]

Thanks for the reply Blade,

Is there any particular RGV250 barell that I'd need to get i.e. VJ22/VJ23?

Also the bike has got an electric start not a kick as I first mentioned, whoops.

Its the original blue/white colour scheme at the moment which I love but unfortunately the fairing has some cracks in it. So I'll fibreglass those and then get it resprayed at my Dad's work. Then a professional stickermaker he knows will make us some stickers for it. I thinking of having it look like something along the lines of below. However any other suggestions/ideas for the final colour scheme would be welcomed.

Once I get the bike on the weekend, I'll take some photos and post them up here. Also as the project progresses I'll keep everyone informed on hows it going.

Thanks again,
Jack

https://aycu09.webshots.com/image/43488/2002862741626212664_rs.jpg
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R.I.P. Tareree Shiimi, 1985-2008

[Barry_M2]

I brought one of these when they first came out, cracking little bike!

I think the problem was that the pins holding the two halfs of the powervalve together used to come loose and either jam the valve, or drop into the barrel (along with the powervalve its self) and destroy the motor.

Also, I wouldn't recomend turning the ignition on if the servo cant move the valve, as this will burn out the ecu, and you'll end up having to replace that too!!

I always fancied getting another one of these at some point.

Keep us posted on how you get on.


____________________
ZXR750R (M2) - For the road.
CBR1000 RR4 - For the track.
https://www.bikechatforums.com/profile.php?mode=viewprofile&u=4332

[twotakt]

If the valves drop into the barrel is it likely that this could cause any damage to the bottom end?

Also if I were to use a RGV250 top end, from which model would I need to source this part from e.g. VJ21/VJ22?
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R.I.P. Tareree Shiimi, 1985-2008

[Barry_M2]

[bladerunner]

you can use either VJ21 or VJ22 not the VJ23 as far as I know and they are so rare anyhow. The main difference between the VJ21 and the 22 is the valve on the 21's is 2 stage open or shut although the pins dont wear as bad as they only have 2 parts to the valves. The 22 valves are 3 stage ie closed mid and open but are more prone to wear as the pin in the middle part is prone to wear although its an easy enough fix to fit larger pins that are available for a few quid.

The other difference is only minor difference is the base studs on the 22 i think are a little longer than the vj21 items so worth looking at how thick the base casting is on the 125 but I'd have thought they were of the thicker type so you might need to fit some washers if you use a vj21 barrel.

I'd also pop over to RGV250.co.uk as they will be able to help you out with any info you need.
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Current bikes...cbr929, KDX200's, Rd125lc mk2, RGV250's

[twotakt]

Nice I've managed to source a cheap VJ21 barrel , I'll also check out www.rgv250.co.uk

Harsh about your RG Barry, luckily I've never had to go through having a bike being nicked. However on a couple of occassions some lads have tried to pull me off my Dt125 whilst I've been riding it (always happens at the same place). I just dropped a gear and pinned the throttle, powerband came in and luckily I was gone.

All X'er riders beware of Crow Lane, Bristol. Lol.
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R.I.P. Tareree Shiimi, 1985-2008

[twotakt]

Hi again,

Apparently the RGV250 has an extra port in the barrel which needs to be blocked off. Can anyone confirm this? If so, how can I block it off?

Thanks,
Jack
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R.I.P. Tareree Shiimi, 1985-2008

[bladerunner]

the extra port will be a coolant pipe which is external. the way I've seen this done is either by machining a metal plug and welding it up or removing the steel pipe and having the hole ali welded ! Not a big job for any engineering shop
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Current bikes...cbr929, KDX200's, Rd125lc mk2, RGV250's

[twotakt]

If anyone has got a RGV250 top end for sale, please let me know I'd like the following:

Would prefer a top end from a Vj22 rather a Vj21

As complete of a top end as possible: Barrel, Piston, Powervalves, Cylinder Head (but would be still happy to buy if all of these parts weren't available)

The bore has to be in good condition, no scrapes/scores.

I live in Bristol and would be willing to collect from there or the surrounding area, but would be prepared to travel further if the price was right

However, I'd be equally prepared to pay for postage and packaging.

Thanks for your time,
Jack

P.s. I'd also be willing to buy a Rg125f (1995 model) top end
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R.I.P. Tareree Shiimi, 1985-2008

[Vincent]

I've got some RG125 parts lying around including a motor. Got a feeling the top end isn't that good, not sure about the powervalve. I'll dig it out and have a look. Are your wheels damaged at all? I've got a pair of them too with good discs, and the rear caliper. think I have the tank aswell. You can have anything for a nominal fee.

[twotakt]

The only things need for it at the moment are top-end engine parts and consumables (chain, disc brakes etc.).
I'll be picking the bike up either tonight or the weekend then I'll strip the bike and remove the engine and if anything turns up then I'll let you know if I need anything else.

Ta,
Jack
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R.I.P. Tareree Shiimi, 1985-2008

[twotakt]

I offered the bloke £70 and he accepted it! I'm off to pick it up in a minute and will take some photos when I get it home and post them up here.

Happy days,
Jack
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R.I.P. Tareree Shiimi, 1985-2008

[twotakt]

I took some photos of the bike in Shed, however there wasn't much room to get a picture; I took them on my phone so there not of exceptional quality. The bikes pretty tatty at the moment, but depending on cost I'll get the logo's remade in the same scheme as is currently on the bike (as well as a respray of the frame/fairings).

Also I took off the barrel as well to discover that it was scored, so will need a replate/replacement. Obviously a piston kit is needed and one of the powervalves has broken so I'll need one of those (is it ok to use 2nd hand powervalves? If not, where can a source a good new set from?). There is no excessive movement at the top of the con rod so thats good news.

However there is a load of petrol in the bottom end, I took the plug out and drained the transmission oil but the petrol still remains. How can I drain this petrol off? Also when I push the con rod down to move the crank there is a (kind of) whirring noise, I thought this might due to the lack of lubrication due to the petrol stripping the oil from the bottom end parts. Any other ideas on what this could be?

Anyway here are some photos

https://aycu12.webshots.com/image/43571/2000422031461959487_rs.jpg
https://aycu12.webshots.com/image/41891/2000471835319958649_rs.jpg
https://aycu22.webshots.com/image/43421/2000415411857940596_rs.jpg
https://aycu19.webshots.com/image/43658/2000496758083627868_rs.jpg
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R.I.P. Tareree Shiimi, 1985-2008

[stirlinggaz]

hi,
good luck on the restoration, always liked those bikes, my late father had one.
i do hope you keep the original colour scheme.
sorry, not mechanical minded enough to advise on other stuff.
but good luck anyway & keep us posted!
cheers,
GAZ

[Joeb46]

i wannnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnt it. gizza go mister.
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Current- Drz400sm- For sale
Kawasaki er-5 race bike# 106

[twotakt]

Hi again,

Apparently to get the petrol drained I'll have to remove the engine and literally tip it upside down, problem solved! (apparently ).

The whirring noise I described is apparently the clutch moving around with the crank and is normal. However I did experience this when I stripped my dt125r but the sound was less prominent. Also when pushing the dt125r conrod up and down the crank moved relatively freely and smoothly. When pushing the RG125f conrod the noise is more prominent and the crank doesn't move as freely and smoothly (could this be a result of lack of lubrication from sitting in a bath of petrol?)

I've been advised to buy only a brand new set of powervalves, however where can I buy some from? The cheapest that I've seen for are ~£240 , will I have to bite the bullet and cough up the cash? If so, that would be more than 3x the amount I paid for the bike, lol.

If I get the replate done, it'll be down Weston-Super-Mare (closest place to Bristol that does it) by a bloke called George Hardwick at www.georacing.co.uk Anyone had any work done here?

Also when respraying the bike will I need to rub down the paint before I finally lacquer it? Does it even need a lacquer?

Thanks again,
Jack
____________________
R.I.P. Tareree Shiimi, 1985-2008

[Ichy]

Bit early to be thinking about painting

Get yourself some really cheap oil. Fill up the engine. Put the bike in gear and slowly turn the rear wheel until you get bored. Drain the oil and chuck the oil filter.

You'll probably need to either support the con rod or protect the sides of the crankcases.


Didn't someone mention fake powervalves? Got to be a cheaper option and you can always replace them if the bikes proves itself.

[twotakt]

I know its early, I just get exicted thats all .
____________________
R.I.P. Tareree Shiimi, 1985-2008

[stirlinggaz]

hi,
just out of curiosity,
do you know how much its gonna cost you to get barrell re-plated?
im looking to get a rs barrell done (nicosil plating).
cheers,
GAZ

[twotakt]

I was quoted £90 for replate and from £30-50 if any welding needed to be done. So thats between £90-£140 all in, however if the barrel is damaged particulary badly apparently it can cost even more .

Instead I've opted to buy a second hand, good condition Vj22 barrel from the RGV250 for £75 (It's coming with a cylinder head too). I'll also be buying some second hand powervalves, apparently near new set of 4 for £150; for a set of 2 brand new ones it was £214 . As well as that the bloke said he'll give me a free piston kit, which is sound of him.

So I'll be traveling up the A38 to Gloucester to buy them tomorrow, I'll also have to order a gasket kit for it. As well as getting the external coolant pipe on the Vj22 barrel welded shut; how much is this likely to cost?

Also I siphoned the fuel off from the crankcase, and its pretty dry now. Didn't need to take the engine out of the frame in the end, but I will do when I eventually get the frame sprayed. Is it alright the steam clean the outside of the engine?

Thanks again,
Jack
____________________
R.I.P. Tareree Shiimi, 1985-2008

[twotakt]

These are the powervalves that I'm meant to be buying tomorrow for £150. They look pretty shabby in my untrained eye, what do you lot think?

https://aycu20.webshots.com/image/40819/2005263139257116011_rs.jpg
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R.I.P. Tareree Shiimi, 1985-2008

[MarJay]

[twotakt]

Hi again,

Went and got the powervalves in the end, cheers for the offer though Marjay.

Made good progress with the bike today too, completely removed all the electrics (all thats left is the front forks, bottom end and wheels/tyres) and have nearly removed the bottom end. Only problem is that I can't get out the swingarm pivot shaft. It seems to be stuck solid, tried WD40 and banging it out but still no luck. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Jack
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R.I.P. Tareree Shiimi, 1985-2008