Race prepping the RVF! Nearly complete!

[daz_d_biker]

Ok so yea, i've never done it before.

The major thing is that i'll be replacing the RVF engine temporarily for a VFR one, while i replace the RVF gearbox and fix the alternator (should i? or total loss?), I may also get some engine work done but that would be at a later date. I'll also be putting the vfr carbs on the rvf engine when it goes back in.
I've got some info on the gearbox's in both, and they have slightly different ratios:-

vfr
Gear ratio, 1st 2.928 (14/41)
Gear ratio, 2nd 2.166 (18/39)
Gear ratio, 3rd 1.800 (20/36)
Gear ratio, 4th 1.591 (22/35)
Gear ratio, 5th 1.435 (23/33)
Gear ratio, 6th 1.318 (22/29)

rvf
Gear ratio, 1st 3.307 (13/43)
Gear ratio, 2nd 2.352 (17/40)
Gear ratio, 3rd 1.875 (16/30)
Gear ratio, 4th 1.590 (22/35)
Gear ratio, 5th 1.434 (23/33)
Gear ratio, 6th 1.318 (22/29)

I have absolutely NO idea what what means, but would greatly appreciate if anyone could decipher which one would be better for race use.

I've made a list of all the things i can think off the top of my head i need to do/get:-

- Race fairings (ARD- bought off ebay for £100 new!)
- lock wire sump plug and filler plug.
- Suspension is already set up, but may upgrade the rear shock when i get chance
- Wet wheels (off a written off vfr i have lying around somewhere) with disks
- Tyres... i think i'll go for Dunlop Qualifier GP's as they last a while-
- Rearsets
- Maybe a transponder but I think i'll rent for now (anyone got any info on this? like can i rent them on the day or a race? etc.)
- Tyre warmers
- Shark fin (i'll make one at work)
- Front and rear paddock stands (Got rear... 2 actually, anyone want to swap for a decent front?)

Is it worth keeping the air intakes?
Do i need to get a clear screen?
Where can i get the weird tools to undo the engine mounts? If worst comes to worst i'll have to make some but if they can be picked up for cheap enough i may aswel buy some eh!

Is there anything i've missed?

Oh yea, one more thing, a really good website if you have a vfr, rvf or cbr 400 - https://www.vsource.org/

Cheers for any help, and karma will be given appropriately

Daz.
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"bikes are replaceable - but a complete nutter aint."

[NSR Mick]

Get yourself over to 400greybike.co.uk.
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races NC30s/NC35s and has many many NC30s/35s in his back yard about 12 of them last time I was there.
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[Gazdaman]

I'd buy a transponder, they're only about £100. And I think it'll be at least a tenner or 20 quid to rent one with a fat deposit needed too.

I'd keep the air ducts if it's an RVF, every 0.5bhp counts.

The gearing I'd chat to people about. You'd probably change it depending on the track. i.e lydden you'd want low gearing, i.e acceleration and lesser top speed. Whereas you'd want the other way around for Snetterton.

I'd say suspension is the place you really want to spend the money. Even if you just get yours rebuilt and set up for you.

Don't worry about a clear screen. It's not like you'll ever be racing in the dark.

Gaz

[Deckx]

Think the general view among 400cc sportsbike riders is that the best tire to get is the Bridgestone BT 90 or Dunlop GPR70 which is superseeded by the Alpha 10.

I just bought a set of BT 90's last month, didn't get much time in as the bike died after 2 sessions but they felt pretty good. I also put on a 150 rear (it had 160 previously)

Ground clearance is problem with the standard pegs (even with the blobs off), rearsets are too pricey for me so i'd get used to hanging off more which helps, you also have more control with your knee down if the pegs dig in.
The exhuast pipe also touches down pretty easy but at least it doesn't dig in so i'm not sure how effective rearsets are for that side ??, probably could get more ground clearance if you raise the back with some washers/spacers on the back-shock.

Also crash bungs can save a lot of cash if you drop it..

[Barry_M2]

Forget the gearbox ratios, this is club racing, not MotoGP!
The most you'll need to do is change sprockets to adjust your gearing for individual tracks. You'll be able to do this in your practice sessions.

If its currently in road going form, just take off all the bits that are not needed. Number plate bracket, lights etc... To be honest, removing the odd bracket or two is not going to win you a race in saved weight.


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[daz_d_biker]

Thanks for all the help...
i've been thinking about getting crash bungs but have been told they can dig into the ground if you slide off the track and cause more damage than not having them.

Deckx- One of my friends get sponsored for tyres so is giving me some hardly worn freebies as he will be taking full advantage of the sponsorship! I think they may actually be GPR70's, but cant really remember. They're a 70 profile front anyway, is this better?

I had a problem with ground clearance at mallory on a trackday on it, the brake pedal dug in so rearsets are a must because i dont fancy it changing gears by itself it i bottom out the left! the blobs were done away with long ago lol.
Unfortunately if i make it any higher than it is i wont be able to touch the floor! It already is pretty high for an RVF for some reason.

Should i go total loss?

Thanks again, Daz.
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"bikes are replaceable - but a complete nutter aint."

[G]

Gear ratios:
The VFR is 'close ratio' in that it's gear ratios are closer together - from 2.9 to 1.3, rather than 3.3 to 1.3.
What this means is that you would have a higher first gear, but then second would come sooner after the redline in first.
Technically this is better because you've got more gears at the speeds you need on track.
Realistically, for club racing, it doesn't really matter - you turning the throttle more at the right time will make a much bigger difference .

For tyres, I would be looking at 'proper' race scrubs - these won't be GPR70s, or shouldn't be. You could race on them or qualifiers, but proper Dunlop 209GPs, Supercorsas make more sense and can be got cheaper second hand.

Crash bungs I would definitely get - I've never had a bike flip because of them and in many cases it's meant that the bike's been ridden back to the pits missing a lever or two rather than having to be vann'd back, then sitting digging grit out of broken engine casings. Just make sure you get good bungs.
On that, armour on engine casings is a worthwhile addition too.

Total loss: again, if you want to go faster, turn the throttle more in the right place. Until you find you're really on it with stuff sliding around, you don't need more power really. Even when you, first thing is probably to look at getting decent tyres if you're using scrubs.
It is worth making sure your bike can keep up at least - but it's not really a problem until you're starting to decently push the bike.

One of my best races was when I had 35hp on an SV650 on really working on one cylinder. I /really/ tried and got an 11th place, same lap time as at a trackday the week before when I had 64hp.

Incidintally, I've got a transponder I'm not using right now, if you're not going to buy (£230 new or something, but can be got for a fair bit less second hand) I could do you a deal renting it at a bit more reasonable rate than the clubs charge until I'm using it again.

[daz_d_biker]

Ok then, well i've got 2 pairs of Dragon supercorsa pro's to tide me over for now. free does it matter that theyre a 70 profile front instead of 60? I've had a 70 on the front before but i dont exactly know what it does lol.

Note to self- turn throttle at the right time

That reminds me, i have a friend that has a race bike, i may have to borrow his transponder.

Cheers, Daz.
____________________
"bikes are replaceable - but a complete nutter aint."

[G]

The profile is the ratio of the height of a tyre to it's width, so a higher profile will be a bit taller. This is generally considered a good thing because it should give quicker steering and possible more rubber on the side - but at the expense of stability.
It will lift the front up a bit, so might be worth dropping it slightly to compensate (or lift the rear a bit more, if you've got ground clearance issues.)

120/70 is the 'standard' race tyre size for fronts.

[Deckx]

[G]

Difference between 65 and 70 won't be massive.

You should notice more grip with the Supercorsas when on the limit (ie, you can get on the power earlier without sliding, etc). Not sure the profile will make a particularly noticeable difference.
As mentioned, if you go for the 70 it might be worth slightly dropping the front to compensate for the slight lift you will get from them.

The big advantage of Supercorsas is that there's loads of racers that will sell them to you relatively very cheaply - they won't have 100% of the grip they had when new, but they wouldn't after the second session at a trackday anyway. They may still have say 98% of the grip though, which is fine for a track day; but not so good if you're trying to win a race and the person in front has 100% of available grip.

[EuropeanNC30R...]

On the subject of rearsets, you could always fit jack-up plates for your existing footpeg hangers instead. iirc they cost about £15ish and Rick Oliver does them.

The exhaust is a bit of a ground clearance issue, I've had that down on the road before. I think most racers that don't have a fancy rear shock use a modified rear suspension linkage to jack up the rear of the bike. The main reason is to get the bike turning in quicker, but you also get more ground clearance.

Again Rick Oliver does these on an exchange basis and is generally a very helpful bloke, you should be able to find his contact details on 400greybike.

[Deckx]

[G]

They are a bit of metal with holes for your pegs and holes to attach to your bike - so could be fairly easily made yourself, especially if you don't mind your pegs sticking out slightly further.

[Fawbish]

Daresay they could easily be made/machined so that the pegs dont stick out further, for not much more trouble
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"Oh....it looks like Average Joe's is forfeiting the match!" - "Yeah, its a risky strategy but lets see if it pays off for 'em Cotton."

[feef]

Also need to make sure your fairing incorporates a catch-tank. Can't remember the volume offhand, but needs to be able to hold most of the fluid from your engine, should it go pop.

Clear screen is requried too afaik.

a
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[Fawbish]

I didnt think a clear screen was in the regs, due to no night riding etc? Or perhaps allowed a certain tint? I cant imagine that theyd enforce clear screens if you're allowed tinted visors etc?
____________________
"Oh....it looks like Average Joe's is forfeiting the match!" - "Yeah, its a risky strategy but lets see if it pays off for 'em Cotton."

[G]

[feef]

[daz_d_biker]

Ok, i've bought a couple of things-

Rearsets
https://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=150213116048&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=005

And ARD race fairings
https://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=230216441961&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=013

I cant really jack it up anymore than it already is because i'm only 5ft5 and can only just touch the floor, so its pretty high already. I'll just hang off i suppose

I'm doing trackdays to start off, to get me in the swing of things, then i'll enter my first race, as i don't even have my race licence yet.
Having an eye test this weekend and joining derby phoenix i think.

Cheers, Daz.
____________________
"bikes are replaceable - but a complete nutter aint."

[Fawbish]

[daz_d_biker]

Time for an update!

Last weekend I basicly race prepped the bike, including the engine swap, was working on it all day saturday and half day sunday! Basicly all i need to do now is clean the callipers inside and out, bleed all brakes and renew front pads, sort out a chain, get some crash bungs sometime, lockwire some stuff and get some better grips! Did an oil and filter change lastnight too, may need a new air filter.

Pics:-Basicly finished.
https://www.bikechatforums.com/files/10022008091.jpg

Its snowing! cooker cleaner! £1.65 a tin and is just as good as castrol bike cleaner.
https://www.bikechatforums.com/files/09022008082.jpg

Stripped it back to basicly nothing!
https://www.bikechatforums.com/files/09022008080.jpg

First trackday is going to be angelsy with any luck, weekend after next. Anyone going?

Daz.
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"bikes are replaceable - but a complete nutter aint."

[Zimbo]

Lots of good advice from G there!

Get a clear screen - you WILL be tucked right in behind it and looking through it, looking over the top is going to turn you into an airbrake on long straights.
Tyres - get as sticky as you can. They cost more and wear quicker, but you need them.
Transponder - buy a new one. They're £230, you can sell it again for £160 any time. Buying a second hand one is always a risk, how good is the battery, will it hold a charge???
Good luck with it! What club will you be racing with???

[daz_d_biker]

I wont be racing until later on in the year, just doing trackdays mainly so a transponder can wait, i'm probably going to be racing with derby phoenix.

And no.... the battery will not hold a charge neither will my spare Never mind, that'll teach me for leaving them on bikes over winter and not using them.

Anyone else racing with derby phoenix? what's the club like?

Cheers, Daz.
____________________
"bikes are replaceable - but a complete nutter aint."