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deliriousthun...
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PostPosted: 01:21 - 01 Aug 2008    Post subject: Clutch Reply with quote

This might be a stupid question, but bear with me, I've not got a clue how this works..

I had to replace the clutch lever after a spill.. I adjusted it so there wasn't much slack in the cable.. and found that the biting point was much different now that the cable was properly adjusted..

I preferred the biting point where it was.. I'm wondering how to adjust where the biting point is without making the cable all slack again..

Thanks for any help,
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petemell
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PostPosted: 07:39 - 01 Aug 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

There will be a difference when putting the new lever on, perhaps the pivot bolt had worn the hole in the lever slightly oval.

There should be about 10mm max amount of play at the end of the lever. You can adjust cable at either end and the worm screw adjuster.


Last edited by petemell on 04:06 - 27 Nov 2008; edited 3 times in total
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deliriousthun...
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PostPosted: 10:11 - 01 Aug 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

um.. well I don't know what you mean by a wormscrew adjuster..

as far as I can tell there are only 2 places to adjust it.. at the lever, and an adjuster close to the clutch casing.. I've used both.. but the problem is that to get the biting point where I like it, I end up creating a lot of freeplay..

Is the one near the clutch casing the wormscrew adjuster?

Sorry I'm a complete n00b Razz

Thanks again,
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Keir
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PostPosted: 11:23 - 01 Aug 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

deliriousthunder wrote:
as far as I can tell there are only 2 places to adjust it.. at the lever, and an adjuster close to the clutch casing


common misconception. there is usually a third one as pete says. on my GSXR there is a screw and locknut under a rubber cover by the front sprocket cover so i would assume others would be in this area too. have you downloaded a workshop manual for your bike? they are very useful if you havent.
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deliriousthun...
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PostPosted: 23:20 - 01 Aug 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a haynes manual, and I can only find mentions of the 2 adjusters I have used so far.. not to say you're wrong.. just that it doesn't seem to be in the manual, or I'm not looking hard enough..

The section "Clutch - Check" that explains how to adjust it definately only mentions 2 ways to adjust though..

Bike is an xj600n btw.. if anyone reading happens to have done this on an divvy before Razz

Thanks,
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petemell
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PostPosted: 23:37 - 01 Aug 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

The biting point will only be different if you have adjusted the cable adjusters.

If adjusting the worm screw adjuster, undo the locknut, then screw the screw in till it touches the pushrod then screw back about a quarter turn. Tighten lock nut back up.


Last edited by petemell on 04:09 - 27 Nov 2008; edited 2 times in total
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deliriousthun...
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PostPosted: 23:46 - 01 Aug 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

oh yeah.. there's not a problem with it at all.. it was needing adjusted before I replaced the lever anyway.. I knew that.. but now that it's adjusted properly, the biting point is so much different to what it used to be..

sorry if I didn't make it clear.. but that's what I was asking; is it possible for me to bring the biting point closer to the handlebars again? (keeping the cable adjusted correctly that is)

Thanks,
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Wil
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PostPosted: 14:38 - 02 Aug 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not without creating more slack in the cable. You might find that where the bite point was you weren't fully disengaging the clutch - I'd suggest you just go out and ride, you'll get used to the new bite point in no time.
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deliriousthun...
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PostPosted: 14:42 - 02 Aug 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

fair enough..

well thanks for help Smile
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Wil
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PostPosted: 15:14 - 02 Aug 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

If there is an adjuster on the clutch itself I suppose you could do it, but I may be wrong. The only other way I can think of doing it is by fitting a different length cable.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 15:27 - 02 Aug 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

The adjusters on each end of the cable just adjust the cable. Using these to adjust the biting point further in by more than a small amount will just result in a floppy lever.

There may also be an adjuster on the engine end on the clutch (but not on the Divvy). These are there to adjust out the play in the actual clutch linkage. Having these out of adjustment can result in the clutch being fairly heavy.

Only real way to adjust the lever position is an adjuster on the lever. Sometimes a convenient to adjust round adjuster knob, sometimes a small screw. But don't think the Divvy has either of those.

However check that you have not mislaid a spacer washer from the clutch lever.

All the best

Keith
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deliriousthun...
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PostPosted: 20:14 - 02 Aug 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wil wrote:
The only other way I can think of doing it is by fitting a different length cable.


Yeah, that would work.. for the sake of that much hassle I'll just learn the new bite point though Razz

Kickstart wrote:
However check that you have not mislaid a spacer washer from the clutch lever.


Question

A spacer washer from where? The bolt that is used as a pivot/hinge? That's the only place I could see that you could fit a washer.. And now that you suggest it that would be a good idea.. the new lever is pretty loose vertically.. a shade on the narrow side where it slots in..

Can't see how that would affect the cable tension or bite point though Confused unless it was just a general reminder?

Thanks,
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 20:29 - 02 Aug 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

deliriousthunder wrote:
Yeah, that would work.. for the sake of that much hassle I'll just learn the new bite point though Razz


Longer inner cable would have exactly the same effect as using the adjusters

deliriousthunder wrote:
A spacer washer from where? The bolt that is used as a pivot/hinge? That's the only place I could see that you could fit a washer.. And now that you suggest it that would be a good idea.. the new lever is pretty loose vertically.. a shade on the narrow side where it slots in..


Yep. There is often 1 or 2 there.

deliriousthunder wrote:
Can't see how that would affect the cable tension or bite point though Confused unless it was just a general reminder?


Won't affect it much but the movement does make a bit of difference. Mainly a general reminder though.

All the best

Keith
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deliriousthun...
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PostPosted: 20:56 - 02 Aug 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
Longer inner cable would have exactly the same effect as using the adjusters


Was actually thinking a slightly shorter cable.. Wouldn't have so much slack.. Would that work?

I'm not going to go to the bother of changing the cable though.. not when I can just learn the new bite point Razz just asking out of curiosity..

Thanks,
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 22:04 - 02 Aug 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

A different length inner cable would have exactly the same effect as changing the adjusters. The important bit for how much slack you have / bitting point is the difference in length between the cable inner and cable outer, and effectively the adjusters on the cable are changing the length of the cable outer.

Fitting a shorter inner cable would be the same as adjusting the cable to have less slack. Would have the same effect on slack and bitting point.

All the best

Keith
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