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Brake seized - how to prevent it in the future?

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dabigginger
Crazy Courier



Joined: 28 Oct 2006
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PostPosted: 22:29 - 18 Dec 2008    Post subject: Brake seized - how to prevent it in the future? Reply with quote

I last used my Hornet back in mid-October. A few weeks later, I went to wheel it out the garage to wash it. There was a fair bit of resistance coming from the front brake (it was a fair struggle to push). A few weeks later, I had to move it out the garage again and it was really hard to move. I mean when I pushed it forwards, the front of the bike dipped quite a lot. The front brakes are almost completely seized on the front! Anyway, they free up if the calipers are tapped lightly with a rubber mallet. I'm hopefully getting this fixed shortly (I don't feel 100% confident working on the most important part of the bike).

Anyways, I was wondering if there is anything in particular I can do to avoid this happening again? Was this possibly just caused by lack of use? If I get it fixed up, then don't use the bike for a couple of months, is it likely to happen again so soon?
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hmmmnz
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PostPosted: 22:43 - 18 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

clean your brakes with warm water everytime you ride in the uk's shitty salt covered roads,

better yet start patitioning your local mp to get salt gritting stopped,
it fucks bikes and cars and is bad for the enviroment,

regular grit (small stones) will give a decentish grip for cars (the only people who matter, apparently) and wont rust everything to buggery
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dabigginger
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PostPosted: 18:38 - 20 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought warm water was a big no no where salt is involved as it speeds up how quickly it corrodes metal and helps dissolve it into harder to reach areas...
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Itchy
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PostPosted: 18:42 - 20 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Strip them down every 6 months , should be no problem,

As a preventitive when you ride in winter (and summer) let the bike cool down a bit and hose the bike off a bike...

Also you might want to use a bit of red rubber grease when you reassemble the calipers and pistons.
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hmmmnz
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PostPosted: 10:51 - 21 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

dabigginger wrote:
I thought warm water was a big no no where salt is involved as it speeds up how quickly it corrodes metal and helps dissolve it into harder to reach areas...

warm water should be fine, anything to dissolve the salt really
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iooi
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PostPosted: 11:51 - 21 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Make sure when you park the bike up you don't use the front brake to stop the bike..
Or give the calipers a tap, spin wheel to make sure that the pads are moved away from the disk.
Sounds like the pads are sticking/rusting to the disk when parked up rather than anything else.

I would also stop washing it and putting it back in the garage for a few weeks, at least without taking if for a good ride to clear all the excess water of the hard to reach places like pads and disks.
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Kickstart
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Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 11:55 - 21 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

dabigginger wrote:
I thought warm water was a big no no where salt is involved as it speeds up how quickly it corrodes metal and helps dissolve it into harder to reach areas...


My view on this is that it is possibly true that warm salty water is more corrosive than cold salty water, but that doesn't mean that warm salty water will cause stuff to instantly disolve. I would doubt in the short while the water is warm and in contact with the brakes it would make any difference at all, and I would expect the warm water to wash the salt off more effectively (and also mean you are more likely to do the washing when you don't have to plunge your hand into freezing water on a cold day to do it).

All the best

Keith
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metal ken
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Joined: 15 Dec 2008
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PostPosted: 13:23 - 21 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

I sometimes use a non penatrative grease like silicone grease on the pistons and either copper of aluminium paste on the back and side of the pads, be carefull not to get any on the pad friction material or disc.

Or Sometimes for a quick fix i spray the pistons/back of the pads with a non-penatrating lube that doesn't react with rubber. Lubes like wd-40 are penatrating and are a big NO-NO on calipers.

As said on this post it is always good to give them a service on a regular basis, servicing and prevention is the best method for fixing a lot of bike problems.

Good luck, Ken Thumbs Up
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Itchy
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PostPosted: 14:40 - 21 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:


My view on this is that it is possibly true that warm salty water is more corrosive than cold salty water, but that doesn't mean that warm salty water will cause stuff to instantly disolve. I would doubt in the short while the water is warm and in contact with the brakes it would make any difference at all, and I would expect the warm water to wash the salt off more effectively (and also mean you are more likely to do the washing when you don't have to plunge your hand into freezing water on a cold day to do it).

All the best

Keith


You obviously haven't seen a made in China CG125 copy or a 1980s ford.
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Kickstart
The Oracle



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PostPosted: 15:34 - 21 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Itchy wrote:
You obviously haven't seen a made in China CG125 copy or a 1980s ford.


Shouldn't matter given the tiny difference. Be sort of like saying a Big Mac is more fattening than a Cheeseburger. Not enough difference to care about, and both are a lot better than starving.

All the best

Keith
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