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Braking and Handling Questions

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smegballs
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PostPosted: 19:34 - 25 Dec 2008    Post subject: Braking and Handling Questions Reply with quote

1. Having bought the MZ a christmas present ,in the form of a nice grimeca master cylinder, from the breakers.
When cleaning out the resevoir the little "minimum" window (which had gone all opaque) cracked under light
finger pressure. As it was obviosly broken i drifted it out and now have a nice round hole in the side of my reservoir.

Sadly nice round holes are not too compatible with holding liquids, so i was wondering what plastics would be suitable
for contact with brake fluid that could be superglued/araldited it place??

Or if you know a better way to repair it please say.

This is based on the assumption that getting hold of a new window is
impossible/expensive/pain in the ass etc etc...

2. I was thinking of dropping the yokes down the forks slightly so i have enough fork over the top
of the yoke to install clip on handlebars. Obviously this will affect the rake (or is it trail??), of the bike.
How is this likely to affect handling and is it wise move??
The yoke would be dropped 3 or maybe 4 inches.

Bike: MZ ETZ250

Thanks,
Rich
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mattjs895
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PostPosted: 23:36 - 25 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

not to sure about what plastic you can use but mz spares to find many spare parts for all mz's.

also, i believe, dropping the forks will make the bike turn into the corners better but there's no need to drop the forks that much, normally an inch is all that's required.

cheers
matt
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virus
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PostPosted: 23:55 - 25 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Araldite and a penny is your friend. Thumbs Up


Cheers
John
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own: 81 xs1100g...
owned: 85 rat CG (sold), 91 GS500e (stolen), 84 gsx400f (scrapped), 81 z250 (siezed, siezed, scrapped), 83 cb250rs (sold), 84 gpz750r ratfighter (killed) 84gpz400 (sold), '80 cb650 ratfighter (wrote off) 95gsx6/12f ratfighter (killed) 91 xj900 (sold)
stinkwheel Well I just had my hands up a pigs fanny. Which makes your concerns pale into insignificance.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 00:32 - 26 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not entirely sure what would hold brake fluid. I think virus has the best idea with an epoxy resin.

I just wonder if araldite would be the best thing or if it would be better to use something like JB weld.

In any case, don't use araldite "rapide", use the slow setting "precision" version.

Dropping the forks through the yokes effectively shortens the wheelbase slightly and decreases the rake on the front. This will make the bike fall into corners more readily but at a cost of stability and with more tendancy to develop speed wobbles. It will also be harder to get it back up out of a corner.

You should be thinking millimetres rather than inches. Adjust it a little at a time then go out and have a try. No more than 4 or 5mm at once or you could come a cropper.

EDIT: What about using a dome headed spout bolt in the hole (dome to the inside with a rubber gasket, penny washer and nylok nut to the outside)?

One of these:
https://www.fastfixdirect.co.uk/images/prodimages/P371.jpg
____________________
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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smegballs
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PostPosted: 07:19 - 26 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

cheers for the suggestions guys. especially the warning about dropping forks.

I think I'll sort the master cylinder first of all.
I want to sort braking out before handling.
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metal ken
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PostPosted: 12:48 - 26 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,

i have just got in a MZ ETZ 251 for breaking, i could see what the master cylinder is like on it if you are still needing one,

Ken, Thumbs Up
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Current bikes, GSXR750 Fighter, GSXR7/12, RD350 race rep, KH400
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smegballs
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PostPosted: 15:14 - 26 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks ken, i think ill have a go with the araldite for starters.

If it dont work out tho you may be hearing from me very soon!!

Cheers
Rich
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metal ken
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PostPosted: 15:17 - 26 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool Thumbs Up
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Current bikes, GSXR750 Fighter, GSXR7/12, RD350 race rep, KH400
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mattjs895
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PostPosted: 00:16 - 27 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

hey ken, just wondering if you have the rear engine mounts for the 251?
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metal ken
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PostPosted: 01:14 - 27 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

mattjs895 wrote:
hey ken, just wondering if you have the rear engine mounts for the 251?


Hi, You have PM

Cheers, Ken Thumbs Up
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Current bikes, GSXR750 Fighter, GSXR7/12, RD350 race rep, KH400
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ms51ves3
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PostPosted: 01:44 - 27 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can you not put the clip ons in between the yokes instead?

Like this:

https://www.gaz-racing.co.uk/images/vehicle_162.JPG

Gazdaman's MZ.
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smegballs
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PostPosted: 01:15 - 28 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is fine looking!!!

I shall have to be asking him a few questions!!

It would be interesting to find out wether thats BMZRC approved
or just a trackday setup.
Also how he rearset the rear brake lever

Rich
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sumpgard
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Joined: 20 Nov 2008
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PostPosted: 10:57 - 28 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

nice bike dropping the fork will make the bike turn faster i do this on motorcross bikes but in a straight line at speed you can get head shake but we are talking rough surface i think you would be fine on the road.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 21:04 - 28 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bittern wrote:

Also how he rearset the rear brake lever


At a totally wild guess, I'd imagine it either involved the following three tools:

Bench vice.
Blowlamp.
Lumphammer.

AND/OR

Any two of:
Hacksaw.
Welder.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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smegballs
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PostPosted: 21:21 - 28 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice brute force technique there Stinkwheel.

I'm trying to think of a way to get around the drum brake being on
the wrong side (as you know).

I suppose it wouldn't really be an MZ if things were easy tho.

I love the modular build on them tho, I just switched rotor and stator
from my knackered 125 to my 250.

Dont suppose you've any experience with the queer Hall Effect MZ ignition stinkwheel?
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 21:36 - 28 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bittern wrote:

I'm trying to think of a way to get around the drum brake being on
the wrong side (as you know).


Doesn't have to be rod activated, you could use a cable with a bit of threaded bar soldered on the end. In fact, I did a picture showing how it could be attached using a drilled bolt. Nipple is red, solder is blue.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/brakethread2.jpg

EDIT: It's only on the "wrong" side until you need to fit the brake for a right hand sidecar by the way. That's historically why Jap and Brit bikes have it on the left and European bikes have it on the right.

Quote:
Dont suppose you've any experience with the queer Hall Effect MZ ignition stinkwheel?


The MZ-b aftermarket one? I have one on my Jawa, it is very good. The gap between the sensor and the trigger needs to be small enough, the coil needs to be well grounded and the plug caps need to be tip-top and not have too high a resistance rating (5kΩ max as I recall).
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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smegballs
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PostPosted: 21:51 - 28 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nah mines MZ OE so we can guess how good that will be....

I got it off one of the "Saxon" models, i think its meant to be
their attempt at breakerless/electronic ignition. Its very tempermental.

I was turning the engine over to test the spark and it went from a healthy spark to nothing without changine any wiring!!

A bit of multimetering shows that the coil is getting charged, but even when the rotor should be blocking the hall field, the flow through the primary isnt collapsing.

It might be 'cos the coil is designed for use with points tho, I will try the coil the sensor came off.

Rich
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 21:56 - 28 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is the battery flat?

Takes a few kicks to excite the coil enough to make a spark with a flat battery with the ignition switch in the "emergency" position.

I'm pretty sure the coils would be different.

There is not a whole hell of a lot to go wrong with a hall effect sensor.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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smegballs
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PostPosted: 22:02 - 28 Dec 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, I did a bit of research and hall effects do seem to be very good.

Its got quite a good homebrew factor i think.
Like you said tho clearances do have to be tight and well made.
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