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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



Joined: 21 Sep 2005
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PostPosted: 03:38 - 04 Feb 2009    Post subject: Electric help (Too many gadgets!) Reply with quote

Right Currently I have 4 things attached to each Battery terminal on my TDM.

I have
Air Horn
Heated Grips
Cigarette Adaptor
Loom

I want to attach a optimate adaptor to it as well but I think it's getting abit silly. I want to rewire and tidy it up, I'm looking for ideas how to group the lot together I only really want 1 extra wire coming off each battery terminal. Any suggestions?
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iooi
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PostPosted: 06:05 - 04 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Trip to scrapyard and pick up a cheap fuse box.
Find another thick cable to go from battery to fuse box, then rewire all from that fuse box.

Could you not just adapt the optimate to go to the ciggi adaptor..
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



Joined: 21 Sep 2005
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PostPosted: 06:58 - 04 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

iooi wrote:

Could you not just adapt the optimate to go to the ciggi adaptor..


I could but it is already a mess and wanted to tidy it anyway. How would you connect the 4 wires to 1?
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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finpos
World Chat Champion



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PostPosted: 09:36 - 04 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

The way it's generally done is to wire everything in [not serial, parallel - Edited for stupidity].

So have a wire run from the battery to the air horn*. Put two wires into the crimp terminal for that. You now have a loose end of wire. run that to the fag lighter, again, two wires into the crimp, run the loose one to the hot grips. Use fat wire and big crimps Smile

* via a single fuse of sufficient magnitude to take the load of all the accessories, obviously. Also you need to be careful you don't have the optimate powering anything, so everything on that wire needs to be switched. In fact, you'd be much better taking the accessory wire from a switched supply(e.g. at the fusebox) than the battery terminal. The optimate then goes straight to the battery.

f.


Last edited by finpos on 18:20 - 06 Feb 2009; edited 1 time in total
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Cigaro
World Chat Champion



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PostPosted: 10:30 - 04 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

finpos wrote:
The way it's generally done is to wire everything in series.

So have a wire run from the battery to the air horn*. Put two wires into the crimp terminal for that. You now have a loose end of wire. run that to the fag lighter, again, two wires into the crimp, run the loose one to the hot grips. Use fat wire and big crimps Smile


Except that simply wouldn't work.

Wire them in parallel instead.

So the two wires would go to one device, then from there to the next one, etc.

Make sure you stick a fuse at the end that connects to the battery

Shit paint diagram attached.
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NSR Mick
World Chat Champion



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PostPosted: 10:33 - 04 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

You would be best adding a second fuse box.

Some cheap ones here.

https://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/search/browse.jsp?N=411+500001+1001434&Ntk=gensearch_003&Ntt=fuse+box&Ntx=
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Finglonga
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PostPosted: 10:45 - 04 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use my power socket to charge the bike, just a case of plugging it in if needed then as it goes directly to the battery. No extra wires needed then.

Air horn as said should be directly from battery(fused) to cut any loss in power.
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chillpill
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PostPosted: 11:57 - 04 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

TheBassJunky wrote:


Shit paint diagram attached.


thats wired in series

worse paint diagram attached Laughing
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 12:06 - 04 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

TheBassJunky wrote:


Except that simply wouldn't work.

Wire them in parallel instead.

So the two wires would go to one device, then from there to the next one, etc.

Make sure you stick a fuse at the end that connects to the battery

Shit paint diagram attached.


Very shit.

Either you missed the switch and the heated grips would only come on when you sound the horn, or the horn is on all the time.

iooi wrote:

Trip to scrapyard and pick up a cheap fuse box.
Find another thick cable to go from battery to fuse box, then rewire all from that fuse box.


Do this.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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map
Mr Calendar



Joined: 14 Jun 2004
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PostPosted: 12:14 - 04 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Best thing would be, as you said, to rewire and to add another fuse box.

Look at some of the BMW touring sites or search my-mc.com (search for "fuse box", you get links like this) for ideas.
The fuse box you want is one of the waterproof ones used in boats (marine suppliers/chandelers), bright yellow if I remember.

Wire into a live feed, put a fuse on it with a relay. Then wire your electric gadgets from the fuse box, fitting other relays as appropriate.
-
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



Joined: 21 Sep 2005
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PostPosted: 20:53 - 04 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

How would I split the single wire from the battery though?


The air horn is on a relay, everything is fused individually.

Now
https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v295/chris-red/my%20pics/now.jpg

should be

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v295/chris-red/my%20pics/shouldbe.jpg
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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chillpill
World Chat Champion



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PostPosted: 20:57 - 04 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

get the multiple wires , trim the ends and twist them together creating one wire Thumbs Up

looks messy but does the job and can be covered up with insulation tape
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loply
World Chat Champion



Joined: 24 Mar 2004
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PostPosted: 21:15 - 04 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't really see the problem with having lots of accessories bolted to the battery terminals. Incidentally some batteries have two screws on the terminals for this purpose.

Sure, it probably makes a bit of a birds nest, but if you're anything like me you probably disconnect, replace or upgrade accessories frequently. Any kind of custom-made wiring harness is going to be a waste of time and effort.

If it's just a nuisance because you have to line up 5 rings each time you d/c the battery then consider soldering the rings together into one - quick, simple and temporary.

You could also consider earthing some of your accessories to nearby frame or engines bolts or other parts of the bike, rather than the neg terminal on the battery. Make sure you do this after any relevant switches though.
This would just reduce some of the birds-nest effect under the seat.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



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PostPosted: 22:45 - 04 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

chillpill wrote:
get the multiple wires , trim the ends and twist them together creating one wire Thumbs Up

looks messy but does the job and can be covered up with insulation tape


That should read, you can twist the ends of the wires together then solder them and cover the joint in adhesive backed shrink tube.

That way if you land up selling the bike to stinkwheel at some point in the future, he doesn't have to track you down and shove your insulating tape up your arse after spending two days tracking down an intermittant wiring fault.

EDIT:
How about wiring up a couple of terminal blocks in the following fashion? (less shit paint diagram attached)

You can buy terminal blocks ready to crimp and assemble yourself. Have your accessories on the other half of the block.

Providing the wire is thick enough, this is a tidy and elegant way of doing it. You would be able to unplug the battery from the loom without any tools.

As has been said, connect earths to the frame near where the accessory is. You only need one earth strap going between the battery negative and the frame itself.

This type of connector block is good. They are waterproof. Cost under a tenner.
https://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/connectors/photo/swp5.jpg
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.


Last edited by stinkwheel on 22:55 - 04 Feb 2009; edited 1 time in total
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chillpill
World Chat Champion



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PostPosted: 22:51 - 04 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Laughing Laughing Laughing

but i couldnt be bothered to type all that Mr. Green
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



Joined: 21 Sep 2005
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PostPosted: 23:49 - 04 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

That block looks useful, where would I get one from?


The problem with having all that shit attached to the battery is that it is really difficult to screw the terminals to the battery as all the connections mean the screw only just gets in far enough to pick up the block.
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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iooi
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PostPosted: 06:11 - 05 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris-red wrote:
The problem with having all that shit attached to the battery is that it is really difficult to screw the terminals to the battery as all the connections mean the screw only just gets in far enough to pick up the block.



Ever thought of a longer screw..... Rolling Eyes Laughing
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Cigaro
World Chat Champion



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PostPosted: 09:16 - 05 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

As others have said, a fusebox would be best. Then each device is individually fused.

chillpill wrote:
thats wired in series


No it ain't. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Series_and_parallel_circuits

Better diagram:
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mr jamez
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PostPosted: 09:40 - 05 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris-red wrote:
That block looks useful, where would I get one from?




vehicle wiring products
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Finglonga
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PostPosted: 14:14 - 05 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

mr jamez wrote:
chris-red wrote:
That block looks useful, where would I get one from?




vehicle wiring products


Picture properties? Question Laughing
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headgear
Scooby Slapper



Joined: 02 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: 11:56 - 06 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
TheBassJunky wrote:


Except that simply wouldn't work.

Wire them in parallel instead.

So the two wires would go to one device, then from there to the next one, etc.

Make sure you stick a fuse at the end that connects to the battery

Shit paint diagram attached.


Very shit.

Either you missed the switch and the heated grips would only come on when you sound the horn, or the horn is on all the time.

iooi wrote:

Trip to scrapyard and pick up a cheap fuse box.
Find another thick cable to go from battery to fuse box, then rewire all from that fuse box.


Do this.


What the man^^^^says Thumbs Up
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Kickstart
The Oracle



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 12:04 - 06 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Simplest solution would be to wire a few of the items to the terminal for the starter relay (the terminal connected to the battery).

Earths are easy to find.

All the best

Keith
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NiteMare
Spanner Monkey



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PostPosted: 12:30 - 06 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
Hi

Simplest solution would be to wire a few of the items to the terminal for the starter relay (the terminal connected to the battery).

Earths are easy to find.

All the best

Keith


careful Kickstart, you'll be expecting folks to start thinking next Mr. Green

i personally prefer taking un-necessary things out of the harness, as then there's less likelihood of stuff going wrong , no sidestand/clutch switches or un-necessary diodes in my slabby, along with having binned the lights relays, leds where possible to reduce the current draw from the battery/charging system, i also like the choice to be able to turn my lights off
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finpos
World Chat Champion



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PostPosted: 18:16 - 06 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Er, yes, I did mean wire them in parallel, description was right though Smile I think what I meant to say was wire them in series, which is different.

You can wire it as I described to avoid unnecessary "T" type joints and junction boxes etc. Also, there's no need to negative run wires back to the battery, just to the frame by the nearest earthing point.


f.
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Phoenix
Twisted Firestarter



Joined: 01 Aug 2002
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PostPosted: 02:08 - 07 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Several things you can safely tap off other circuits to save wiring to the battery. I run exactly the same equipment as you. Heated grips are powered directly off the low beam feed, they only draw about 30watts so are well within the limits of the wiring guage and the headlight fuse.

The cigarette lighter you can run off a thick guage wire to the battery, you can split this wire into 2 further away from the battery and have one go to the air horn relay to save 2 seperate wires onto the battery terminal, just make sure the combined current draw off all circuits doesn't exceed the guage and fuse of the single feed from the battery. So if you have an air horn pulling 20 amps and a cigarette lighter maxing at 20 amps and you join the wiring before the battery, the wire to the battery must be 40 amp while the 2 branches can be 20 amp each, if doing it this way you're best off fusing each branch rather than the main wire.
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