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Making your own manual CCT

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Visitor Q
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PostPosted: 22:59 - 23 Feb 2009    Post subject: Making your own manual CCT Reply with quote

Right, in essence I think its safe to say the CBR has eaten another CCT.

Irritating, especially as I'm poor and David Silver spares wants 50 quid for a new one, and its only been about 10k since the last one.

I've just found out about manual ones, which is news to me as I assumed the camchain actually moved in and out and needed constant variance (ala pedal bike drive chains with that little tensioner behind the rear wheel gear stack).

Having remembered I had an old CCT lying about, and seeing just how simple the manual ones are (despite wanting £50 quid for them), I was wondering if anyone had considered machining their own? Or for that matter, converting the CCT body in to a manual one.

It's not as mad as it sounds, on the CBR one the top off the CCT when hollowed out has a ~6mm thread, and the actual rounded bit that contacts the blade/guide is encased within a sleeve that naturally fits within the CCT and is retained (regardless of spring).

So, if I were to source a long enough bolt and a nut that fitted it, and perhaps use a crush washer on the top (I have a spare CCT gasket kicking about too Thumbs Up) to be extra careful, I could have a rattle free life for sometime, for next to fuck all.

Thoughts? I do only have a rudimentary grasp of mechanics I'll be honest, but to me this seems very painfully obvious (especially given how shite Honda CCT's seem to be).
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PostPosted: 23:02 - 23 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

By the way, this is a manual jobby (as said, sold for £50 Neutral)

https://www.bigccracing.com/shopfiles/product/image259_big.jpg
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 23:06 - 23 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd worry about the cam chain ripping the the top of the bolt off, you have to make sure it was strong enough for the job. Providing it doesn't leak oil I can't see why it wouldn't be fine.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 23:12 - 23 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

The chain doesn't ride over the bolt - the bolt just presses on the back of the tensioner blade.
Making one of those would be very easy if you had the equipment. All they do is take a normal bolt and turn the head down on it, make a plate, tap it for the bolt, screw it through the plate and fit a nut which is pinned to the end of the bolt. Oil is kept in by a small o-ring on the bolt thread which seals on a countersink in the plate. The big trick is knowing how much tension to put on them.
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Visitor Q
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PostPosted: 23:16 - 23 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris-red wrote:
I'd worry about the cam chain ripping the the top of the bolt off, you have to make sure it was strong enough for the job. Providing it doesn't leak oil I can't see why it wouldn't be fine.


The bolt doesn't contact the camchain directly, it pushes in a guid/blade in the centre (which is hinged from one end) which applied pressure for it. And as said, theres a cap over the end of the bolt which is rounded and smoothed off.

I have three concerns;
One, that the thread in the CCT housing already would be too weak to cope.
Two, despite being under next to no oil pressure it might leak around the bolt unless I'm willing to put on a new crush washer every time I adjust it (although apparently thats not very often)
Three, due to being manual it would have no give at all, which may or may not be an issue (the sold products wouldn't either, and loads of people rate them so I doubt it).

It's probably use two nuts to lock it, cos I'm paranoid, but it could definitely work Thinking

Might be a clearance issue by adding an extra inch to the CCT though... Thinking I'd rather machine the old CCT down a bit, or make a new one, but thats mildly optimistic.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 23:16 - 23 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Your idea does sound feasable, although would partly depend on the metal of the adjuster being half decent to hold the bolt.

However are you sure the problem isn't just a worn cam chain. Not really much to wear out in a cam chain tensioner.

All the best

Keith
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Visitor Q
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PostPosted: 23:20 - 23 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:


However are you sure the problem isn't just a worn cam chain. Not really much to wear out in a cam chain tensioner.



True, its incredibly irritating but Honda CCT have a serious notoriety so I'd be more inclined to think it was that. A quick google search generally says every rattle on a CBR is solved by swapping the CCT.

I've just taken off and flue sealed the hell out of the headers, so thats /definitely/ not the source of the rattle (and it goes better now Twisted Evil). But I can't be 100% sure the CCT will cure the rattle, and dropping £50 on it when I'm this poor having just shelled out ~100 servicing/fixing it is a tad galling without being 100%.

It might even be worth just doing it as a diagnostic exercise Thinking
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 23:31 - 23 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Honda cam chains used to be dire, but thought the CBR600 one was no worse than any other bike cam chain.

The cam chains are basically ratchets, allowing them to push out to take up slack but not move back and release the cam chain. Not really much to wear.

However a knackered cam chain isn't going to be solved by a new tensioner.

All the best

Keith
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mad4it028
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PostPosted: 23:36 - 23 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

when i had my cbr 600 i was always changing them so changed the chain same problem!!
how i solved this was to take off the cct remove the circlip which lets you into the spring i then fitted a stronger spring which fitted inside the standard spring refitted the circlip refitted the cct did 20000 miles on it before i sold it and was still fine

think the spring i use was an exhaust spring off the front pipe of a pug 106 i may be wrong on that tho
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 23:36 - 23 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I'd rather machine the old CCT down a bit, or make a new one, but thats mildly optimistic.


Not optimistic at all. What you'd do is simply tap the tensioner for your bolt thread and machine a bolt to fit. Just find a bolt big enough, or bore the tensioner out and press-in a bush then drill & tap that. Easy job.
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Visitor Q
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PostPosted: 23:46 - 23 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Geri wrote:
Quote:
I'd rather machine the old CCT down a bit, or make a new one, but thats mildly optimistic.


Not optimistic at all. What you'd do is simply tap the tensioner for your bolt thread and machine a bolt to fit. Just find a bolt big enough, or bore the tensioner out and press-in a bush then drill & tap that. Easy job.


Oh no, I know it is very doable. Would rather CNC it out of a slab of steel etc, but the old one could be done (although it does open out in to a large chamber which would need filling). I just lack the tools, parts and nouse.

I did think about wedging another spring in there as the original is piss weak. Just would be worried that I'd over do it Thinking

As mentioned, cbr 600's are just notorious. Mine is a 96, back when they still had the issue it seems. And as said, replacing the chain isn't necessarily going to sort it either. It still runs fine for now, but from last time I remember the rattle gets louder and louder until you eventually snap out of mechanical sympathy.

I heard a theory that it could be through leaving it on the side stand for long times (ie while travelling/uni Embarassed), which drains all the oil (CCT is on right), thus doing it no good when you start it dry... Thinking

Either, no rush now (famous last words).

Any tips for cheap places to get some bespoke machining?
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virus
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PostPosted: 23:48 - 23 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Getting it machined = yes, making one out of an old one = no.

Ill explain, the automatic CCT on my gpz failed when I was rebuilding the engine, now for those that arent familiar with kwak CCTs, its got a oil seal bolt on the end, then inside is a slot you put a screwdriver in to do your adjusting etc, me being a cheapskate decided to put a much longer bolt in place of the oil seal bolt, with a washer and 2 locknuts on.

All worked well until I fired it up the other day and the bolt dropped out of the CCT, turns out 4mm or so of thread on that oil seal bolt isnt up for the job.


so, your 2 best options are, get on ebay and find another cheap, or get it machined properly into a manual one.

Cheers
John
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 23:59 - 23 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I heard a theory that it could be through leaving it on the side stand for long times (ie while travelling/uni ), which drains all the oil (CCT is on right), thus doing it no good when you start it dry...


Sounds like a load of rubbish to me. Camchains are splash-fed, and don't need much lubrication anyway.
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D O G
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PostPosted: 02:38 - 24 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

I changed the CCT on my SRAD to a manual one (which I bought, not built!), pain in the arse IMO.

You do have to retension it regularly - like each oil change, somewhat annoying. I would try the spring mod as previously suggested (perhaps by a CCT from the breakers to modify), or wait a month and get a new genuine one.
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Visitor Q
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PostPosted: 06:29 - 24 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Damofo D.O.G. wrote:
I would try the spring mod as previously suggested (perhaps by a CCT from the breakers to modify), or wait a month and get a new genuine one.


I have my old one still. God bless being a hoarder Laughing

Just try to think about tensions, like I say I could just ram a beast in there without causing excess wear to the tensioner blade/camchain Thinking
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China traffic/travel bike vid - When I make a sweeping statement, please add the word 'statistically' in to the sentence before you bitch...
From September 2014 to January/February 2015 I will not be using any English, nor reading any. As such, I won't be on here. PM at will, but I won't be checking/posting unless in emergencies. Certainly not for the first couple of months. Please berate me savagely if I break that rule...
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D O G
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PostPosted: 06:39 - 24 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

bonny_ricardo wrote:
Damofo D.O.G. wrote:
I would try the spring mod as previously suggested (perhaps by a CCT from the breakers to modify), or wait a month and get a new genuine one.


I have my old one still. God bless being a hoarder Laughing

Just try to think about tensions, like I say I could just ram a beast in there without causing excess wear to the tensioner blade/camchain Thinking


I doubt it.

The way to to tension a manual CCT is to screw the bolt in until you feel resistence, start the engine, and loosen until you hear the clatter, then tighten until it goes away, plus an extra 1/4 turn or so.

By putting a very strong spring in there you would no doubt over tension it.

If you have your old one, take it apart, and try and measure the stiffness of the spring by resting weights on it and measuring the squish. I'm sure you could then get a spring to fit with say 25% extra stiffness from a supplier. Hell, if you could get a range of tensions you could test them to find the optimum one, if you have the time and the inclination that is!!
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Visitor Q
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PostPosted: 12:33 - 24 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

bonny_ricardo wrote:


Just try to think about tensions, like I say [i][b]I doubt[\i][\b]I could just ram a beast in there without causing excess wear to the tensioner blade/camchain Thinking


Check the posting time, i'd just got up Embarassed

And yeh I could try a slightly uprated pring, but bare in mind this is an old knackered one.
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From September 2014 to January/February 2015 I will not be using any English, nor reading any. As such, I won't be on here. PM at will, but I won't be checking/posting unless in emergencies. Certainly not for the first couple of months. Please berate me savagely if I break that rule...
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iooi
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PostPosted: 18:18 - 24 Feb 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
heard a theory that it could be through leaving it on the side stand for long times (ie while travelling/uni ), which drains all the oil (CCT is on right), thus doing it no good when you start it dry...


As its half way up the cylinder block, neither stood on a center stand or a side stand is going to any diffrence.... Unless you fill the engine 2/3 full with oil....

Sounds like a old wives tale if there ever was one...

Just shove a stronger spring in... Sounds like Honda have engineered a money spinner in there Wink
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