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Carbed bike laid up for a year

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cheesyleps
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 31 Jan 2008
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PostPosted: 23:23 - 10 May 2009    Post subject: Carbed bike laid up for a year Reply with quote

Hi guys.

Basically, I've just been offered a k reg Kawasaki ZZR 600 for nothing (messy breakup, she wants rid of his bike which is now her property).

However, it's been laid up in a covered entryway under a cover for the last 14 months. Essentially, I'm wondering what sort of process I should run through (what problems you would expect to face) when starting her up and looking for faults to get her back into tip top shape. For the age and the "neglect" over the last 14 months it looked in failry good nick, but I only got a quick look at it and haven't tried to start it yet.

Any advice you can offer to someone taking baby steps into the mechanical world would be much appreciated.
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5v3d3b0
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PostPosted: 23:28 - 10 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think it will be essential to take the carbs off and strip them. Give all the parts a good clean paying special attention to the jets.
Tires might be useless by now as they can get deformed it the bike doesn't move for a long period of time. Brake fluids may need changing. Check all the fuel hoses for cracks and leaks.
You can probably get a manual for it in the manual topic. Should make things a lot easier for you.
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 00:10 - 11 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it generally looks in reasonable condition then the first thing I always do is attach a battery and try to start it, its not likely to have much wrong with it after 14 months, a lot of new cars sit in fields for longer than that Laughing

Once it starts I would change the oil then go for a short ride to see if anything else is needed.
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cheesyleps
Renault 5 Driver



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PostPosted: 00:38 - 11 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

As far as I'm aware the battery is still sitting inside the bike. Is this likely to have caused a problem? I expect to be flat, so I was just going to whack a charger on her. But, is it likely that the terminals may have corroded or something else that will require a new battery?
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Bendy
Mrs Sensible



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PostPosted: 09:27 - 11 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

cheesyleps wrote:
As far as I'm aware the battery is still sitting inside the bike. Is this likely to have caused a problem? I expect to be flat, so I was just going to whack a charger on her. But, is it likely that the terminals may have corroded or something else that will require a new battery?


Terminal corrosion - no particular reason why it should, look and see.

Sometimes batteries just get beyond flat and into the realm of 'fucked'. Try charging it, if it doesn't want to play ball stick another one in. If it's the original battery on a K reg bike, I'd be replacing it anyway.

Definitely try starting it before taking anything to bits, 14 months isn't all that long and there's no point making new problems. A bit of new fuel might not be a bad idea but I've seen bikes start on petrol that's considerably older than that. If everything works, I'd do an oil change and if the brakes are shit I'd change the fluid. Wouldn't even look at the carbs unless it's running like a bag of spanners after a good few thrashes.
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b-f-c
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PostPosted: 09:38 - 11 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Crank it over with the CDI disconnected, get a good spread of oil round the bike before firing it up properly
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 10:58 - 11 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

It'll probably take enough cranking to start it to do that anyway.

It'll need a new battery, charging the old one is a waste of effort as even if it takes a small charge it'll have no real capacity and will die very soon anyway. I would chack the oil level then crank here over and listen for any horrible noises before spending any money on it. If it sounds ok then give it a good going-over.

Be prepared for a couple of good days maintenance at least.
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Blue_SV650S
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PostPosted: 10:59 - 11 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Drain the tank of old yucky fuel*, stick some fresh fuel in there, get some jump leads form the car and whirl her over!! Smile

If you are lucky, it'll run fine and all you need is a new battery for it, if you are less lucky it'll need a carb strip and clean ....



*or at a minimum 'brim' the tank to dilute the old sh1tty petrol in there.
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1016
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PostPosted: 11:18 - 11 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

looks like everyone above has covered it! - would endorse fuel tank carbs check - did similar with a GPZ500s, internal tank rust was main problem, but also vacuum-type fuel cock (if you have one). needle valves and corresponding seat recess in float chambers were well varnished up, and caused fuel to seep into gearbox. If you are going to churn engine just to get oil round, don't forget (as has also been said) to either disconnect coils or, if plugs removed, rest on head so allowed to spark, otherwise ignition circuit can get fried when starter cranked continuously.
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map
Mr Calendar



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PostPosted: 11:31 - 11 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

fjrat wrote:
Crank it over with the CDI disconnected, get a good spread of oil round the bike before firing it up properly

Wouldn't starting it up with the kill switch engaged do the same job?
Prevents fannying around with the wiring (which, IMO, on a bike that's being stood has a habit of turning into cheese).

Just a thought Thumbs Up
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Blue_SV650S
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PostPosted: 11:36 - 11 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

map wrote:
fjrat wrote:
Crank it over with the CDI disconnected, get a good spread of oil round the bike before firing it up properly

Wouldn't starting it up with the kill switch engaged do the same job?
Prevents fannying around with the wiring (which, IMO, on a bike that's being stood has a habit of turning into cheese).

Just a thought Thumbs Up


Many kill switches prevent the engine turning over too ....

I've never heard of lots of cranking over frying ignition components ....

I wouldn't consider that a consideration myself ... just make sure you only do what 10 second bursts? of cranking over, with say 30s in between to let the starter and starter wires cool!! Smile

I'd say overheating the starter and wires is the only real concern ... but you would have to be a bit of an animal to even do that!! Shocked
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 12:01 - 11 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blue_SV650S wrote:
Drain the tank of old yucky fuel*, stick some fresh fuel in there,


slighty OT.
While I won't deny that some petrol seems a bit crappy after a few months I just wanted to point out that classic bike did a test a few months ago and found that the age of the petrol seemed to make very little difference. One bike even ran better on old fuel. I can't remember exactally but I don't think they could work out why. I reckon the biggest cause of problems is down to the additives, water contamination, dirt, and rust. I'll have to see if I can find it.
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Robby
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PostPosted: 12:35 - 11 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your plan is to see if it runs, so don't go over the top. Check the engine has some oil in, hook up a big battery (the current one will be flat or low) and fire it up. Only fanny around if it needs it.

Otherwise you'll take the carbs out, break something, and spend the next 6 months sinking loads of money into it, fixing things that don't need fixing.
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Kickstart
The Oracle



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PostPosted: 13:07 - 11 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Another vote for just starting it.

The ZZR600 does seem to need a fair amount of battery power before it will idle. Probably worth taking the battery off and putting it on an optimate for a few days. It might well be dead long term, but at least should have enough power to let the bike idle.

Would be inclined to think about draining the petrol (or most of it) and then putting fresh petrol in.

If you want to crank it over for a bit without it starting the I would just short out the starter relay rather than faffing round disconnecting things.

All the best

Keith
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1016
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PostPosted: 00:07 - 12 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

my first post did have some ambiguity in it, so I will try again... :-
On a popular Kawasaki forum several owners had posted saying that they had burnt out ignition components on their bikes (similar to ZZR600) by cranking over continuously with spark plug caps REMOVED - i.e. nowhere for the spark to ground - warnings of same in Haynes and factory handbook.. Is that better? P.S. If you are going to crank an engine just to try and clean up bores in preparation for starting after long layup, then plugs out/squirt of oil method is best everytime - easier on starter, easier on battery Thumbs Up
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Kickstart
The Oracle



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PostPosted: 09:31 - 12 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

1016 wrote:
by cranking over continuously with spark plug caps REMOVED - i.e. nowhere for the spark to ground - warnings of same in Haynes and factory handbook..


Yep, that is a very big no no with a lot of ignition systems.

All the best

Keith
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Blue_SV650S
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PostPosted: 09:35 - 12 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
spark plug caps REMOVED - i.e. nowhere for the spark to ground - warnings of same in Haynes and factory handbook..


Ah, right, I see what you mean now!!

Not massively sure how even that can cause damage as it won't stop the primary coil (in the coil) discharging (will it??), but I'd certainly be more wary of that than I would simply turning it over with the plugs properly in. Thumbs Up
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1016.5
Renault 5 Driver



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PostPosted: 09:56 - 12 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

In-spite of all the advice from other posters I reckon sorting this bike will be a huge plate of aggravation for you - don't do it.

I'll have it instead, can you deliver?
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Wozza
Brolly Dolly



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PostPosted: 10:02 - 12 May 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ichy wrote:
I reckon the biggest cause of problems is down to the additives, water contamination, dirt, and rust.


In that case, leave the old fuel in there but remove all water contamination, dirt and rust. Razz
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