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| Thom |
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 Thom World Chat Champion

Joined: 24 Oct 2007 Karma :   
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 Posted: 11:36 - 11 May 2009 Post subject: Blipping the throttle - I know, it's been done... |
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I've been trying this blipping the throttle on the downshift lark to try and make my downshifting smoother.
Previously i wouldnt do this and could unly let the clutch out very slowly so the gears/engine could catch up with one another - kinda like i was slipping the clutch.
Now, having tried blipping the throttle ive noticed it certainly does make the downshifts smooth and sweet, but i only get it right maybe 1 in 10 or even 15 times.
How do you do it?
Currently my 'technique' is:
Roll off throttle, clutch in, 'blip' throttle (Although its more like rev the engine?), clutch out and repeat if neccesary.
Does this sound right?
When you guys say 'blip the throttle' if if coming down from high revs, a small twist of the throttle doesnt seem to be enough and i need to rev the engine more for it to be smoother.
Maybe i should try using my brakes more to help?
Maybe you lot should just teach me how to ride again
Any advise would be great, and if it makes a difference its a xj600s divvy i ride (Of which wont shift up or down without clutch) ____________________ Current Bike: 1996 Yamaha TRX850 (The Japanese-Ducati One).
Previous Bikes: 1990 Honda NSR125 'Rothmans' (The smoking one), 1990 Suzuki GS500e 'Caf? fighter' (The loud one), 1987 Kawasaki GPX400r (The quick one), 1997 XJ600s Diversion (The reliable one), 2000 Kawasaki ER-5 (The spontaneously combustive one) |
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| warped one |
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 warped one Banned

Joined: 25 Dec 2007 Karma :     
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| Thom |
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 Thom World Chat Champion

Joined: 24 Oct 2007 Karma :   
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 Posted: 12:12 - 11 May 2009 Post subject: |
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this may sound stupid but how soon quickly should i release the clutch?
I mean if i do it slowly surely it defeats the object of blipping and if i do it quickly it would probably still feel jumpy?
Im considering this an 'advanced' technique so that i dont sound such a twat!  ____________________ Current Bike: 1996 Yamaha TRX850 (The Japanese-Ducati One).
Previous Bikes: 1990 Honda NSR125 'Rothmans' (The smoking one), 1990 Suzuki GS500e 'Caf? fighter' (The loud one), 1987 Kawasaki GPX400r (The quick one), 1997 XJ600s Diversion (The reliable one), 2000 Kawasaki ER-5 (The spontaneously combustive one) |
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| warped one |
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 warped one Banned

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| DEN MONKEY |
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 DEN MONKEY World Chat Champion

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| Hetzer |
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 Hetzer Super Spammer

Joined: 19 Feb 2007 Karma :     
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 Posted: 12:55 - 11 May 2009 Post subject: |
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| metalforever wrote: | this may sound stupid but how soon quickly should i release the clutch?
I mean if i do it slowly surely it defeats the object of blipping and if i do it quickly it would probably still feel jumpy?
Im considering this an 'advanced' technique so that i dont sound such a twat!  |
The only thing different between a non-blip down-change and a blipped down-change is you blip the throttle for the latter. Nothing else changes, nothing else is different.
The knack is making sure you feed the clutch in before the blip tails off. If you let the clutch in too slowly you lose the advantage of the blip; if you let it in too quickly you can either flip the bike (highly unlikely) or lock up the rear wheel.
The idea is to match the engine revs to the speed of the gearbox/rear wheel. It doesn't have to be 100% perfect, because any blipped match is better than the match you'll get without the blip.
The amount of blip is dependent on your speed and original revs in the gear from which you're shifting down. If you're burbling along you really don't need to blip. If you're coming down from a screamer that's when you need to blip, otherwise you will get rear-wheel lockup (unless you feed the clutch in real slow, and put lots of nice wear on it).
The best way to practice is to go along slowly and do it at low revs and low speed. Throttle off, pull clutch-lever in, down shift, blip throttle and feed clutch back in (release lever). Do it all day long until it becomes second nature and you no longer have to consciously think about it. Then you can start picking up the speed.
Once you've mastered it, and have an impressive bike, find a high-school near a set of lights and come past at about 120mph at kicking-out time and blip down all the way through the box up to the lights (make sure they're red) and you'll get a good bunch of hot school-girls asking you for autographs and babies. It's really coolio.  ____________________ "There's the horizon! Ride hard, ride fast and cut down all who stand in your way!"
Last edited by Hetzer on 12:59 - 11 May 2009; edited 1 time in total |
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| Hetzer |
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 Hetzer Super Spammer

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| Kickstart |
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 Kickstart The Oracle

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| Welshd1k |
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 Welshd1k World Chat Champion
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| KevTM |
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 KevTM World Chat Champion

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| Hetzer |
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 Hetzer Super Spammer

Joined: 19 Feb 2007 Karma :     
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 Posted: 13:27 - 11 May 2009 Post subject: |
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How's it hard to say the process? It's not facking rocket-science, is it.
Unless a normal gear-change is "hard to say" too? Think 'normal gear change', then just add 'blipped throttle' into the mix.
a) Roll off throttle.
b) Pull in clutch-lever.
c) Select gear down.
d) Blip throttle (OPTIONAL EXTRA).
e) Let clutch-lever out.
When you let the clutch-lever out you are feeding the rear wheel into the engine.
How fast do you want the engine to be going when you feed the rear wheel into it? If the engine is going too slowly the rear wheel will lock up. If the engine is going too fast the rear wheel will flip the bike. If the engine is going just right the rear wheel will cuddle it.
The gear you're in plays a part too, IF you go down more than one gear but don't slow the bike with the brake too. The rear wheel can't do 100mph if you feed the clutch back into too low a gear, it will lock up the rear wheel. Opposite to that, if you rev the motor too high and feed a slower rear wheel into it the wheel will try to catch up with the motor and flip the bike (or do a nice wheelie if that was your intention, though usually that's achieved without changing down a gear).
If you can't understand the simple mechanical processes at work you're more likely to fack something up. Understand why and how something does the thing it does before trying to make it do it, you'll live longer (or whatever). ____________________ "There's the horizon! Ride hard, ride fast and cut down all who stand in your way!" |
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| Hetzer |
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 Hetzer Super Spammer

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| KevTM |
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 KevTM World Chat Champion

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| Smooth |
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 Smooth Could Be A Chat Bot

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| Paulington |
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 Paulington World Chat Champion

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| Wafer_Thin_Ham |
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 Wafer_Thin_Ham Super Spammer

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| s44678 |
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 s44678 Guest
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 Posted: 19:13 - 11 May 2009 Post subject: |
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Hi.
I've seen this in a few of your posts now. It's not an established punctuation mark as far as I'm aware, so I get a bit confused when I see it.
Am I supposed to pause (like a comma) when I see the '><' ? Or await some further information (like a semi-colon)? Or just accelerate right through it and pretend it's not there. Maybe it denotes a missing word. I just don't know, and it's causing me some distress.
Please could you clarify.
Kind regards
Sam |
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| The Tot |
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 The Tot World Chat Champion

Joined: 11 Jun 2004 Karma :    
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 Posted: 19:37 - 11 May 2009 Post subject: |
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You get used to the motion after a while. I find it steadies the bike nicely when setting yourself up for a corner.
My sequence goes like
1) Clutch in
2) Blip
3) Snick it into the next gear down the same time your wrist opens your throttle
4) let the clutch out "progressively" when your wrist is at 80-90% open throttle position
It takes some feeling but after a while, you just get used to doing it. I picked it up when going on a ride out with Swaffs 5 years ago! and noticed how much smoother the XR125 was during braking.
In those 4 steps, the more experienced you get, the more of a blurr those steps become until they end up as one fluid motion. The quicker you blip the throttle ( combined with a larger throttle opening), the quicker you can go down the gearbox without unsettling the rear end. It's good if you want to really attack a favourate corner and be as late as you dare on the brakes.. or can be used in emergency situations, such as a car pulling out 100 yards away when you're going faster than you originally thought
Due to the way i hold the throttle and brakes, i have the front brake engaged with my ring, middle and pinkie and use my palm to blip (index and thumb are gripping the throttle). I've grown used to braking like that and it's very smooth, especially with pillions. ____________________ The Tot 2019 Z1000SX - 2007 R1
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| yuri2085 |
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 yuri2085 World Chat Champion
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| Thom |
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 Thom World Chat Champion

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| Faraz |
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 Faraz Nearly there...

Joined: 26 May 2007 Karma :    
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| 5v3d3b0 |
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 5v3d3b0 World Chat Champion
Joined: 24 Sep 2006 Karma :     
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 Posted: 21:24 - 11 May 2009 Post subject: |
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The only reason for doing this that I can see is when you're braking hard?
How do you blip the throttle when you're fingers are grasping the brake lever? Surely it's uncomfortable to say the least...
What's wrong with regular brake plus engine brake? Or when changing down normally just let the clutch out slow.
I'll definitely try it on the zxr when I get it cause the engine braking is pretty brutal compared to the rs 125  |
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| colin1 |
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 colin1 Captain Safety
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| Faraz |
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 Faraz Nearly there...

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| Faraz |
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 Faraz Nearly there...

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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 17 years, 151 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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