Resend my activation email : Register : Log in 
BCF: Bike Chat Forums


breaks/calipers

Reply to topic
Bike Chat Forums Index -> The Workshop
View previous topic : View next topic  
Author Message

grandmasterbo...
Scooby Slapper



Joined: 30 May 2009
Karma :

PostPosted: 11:16 - 21 Jun 2009    Post subject: breaks/calipers Reply with quote

hi i was wondering what to do about my binding front break on my CBR 125 i sprayed it with cleaner before because it was makeing a squeaky noise and the dealer sed it would fix it then it came back and i took it to my mate who said that it was binding as on the 5 min journey from mine to his the front break was extremely hot when i took it back to the dealer i was told that it would cost me about £65 to get it sorted or i could take it of and clean it out and hope that that works

so what would you all recommend take it to them or try to sort it myself?
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

steo
Nova Slayer



Joined: 08 Jun 2009
Karma :

PostPosted: 13:15 - 21 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

if your ok with the spanners then it's a handy enough fix. you probably shouldn't have sprayed the caliper with cleaner as this could make the seals distort & swell, it's the brake pads that make the squealing noise. take a look at the pads, make sure they're sitting in the caliper properly & that they're not snagged up in the brake pad clip. if they're ok then the piston in the caliper is probably semi seized with dirt & gunge so when you pull in the brake it's not returning into the caliper thus making the brake bind. if you take the piston out then you will lose your fluid unless you use a clamp on the brake hose but you're still going to have to bleed the brakes. you maybe able to get away with cleaning the piston by removing the pads, pumping the brake till the piston is 3/4 way out of the caliper, clean it lightly with a bit wire wool & brake fluid, (you don't want to scratch the piston) & be careful with the seals, clean it off with a cloth. put a bit of brake fluid on the piston & push it back into the caliper. if you use a large G clamp, it's easier.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

Finglonga
World Chat Champion



Joined: 27 Jul 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 17:25 - 21 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v112/finglonga/Finglonga%20Inc/BRAKE.gif

Doh!
____________________
Andy Sez....
F.Y.Y.F.F.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Noxious89123
World Chat Champion



Joined: 10 Jun 2007
Karma :

PostPosted: 20:06 - 21 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

steo wrote:
probably shouldn't have sprayed the caliper with cleaner as this could make the seals distort & swell

Er, hello? Brake cleaner won't hurt the seals at all. That's what it's designed for, cleaning brakes!
steo wrote:
clean it lightly with a bit wire wool & brake fluid, (you don't want to scratch the piston)

No shit you don't want to scatch it! DO NOT use wire wool! Can of brake cleaner and a paint brush. Spray liberally with brake cleaner and brush the crap off. Push the piston back into the caliper, refit the pads, regrease the caliper sliders (silicone grease works well for this). You can also smear a little bit of silicone grease on the back of the pads to help stop them squealing.

Good intentions Steo, but not the best advice! Doh!

If the brakes have been dragging, the pads could have been overheated and might not work as well as they should. Use some fine sandpaper to take a small amount of material off. Once the pads have bedded in again they should work sweet.

EDIT: Also, you can smear a little silicone grease around the sides of the piston, or you can use a little brake fluid.
____________________
'06 Honda CBR125RW-6 ~ '00 Honda CBR600F-Y ~ '07 Honda CBR600RR-7 ~ Bikeless Sad
'53 Ford Ka 1.3 ~ '03 Vauxhall Astra SRi 1.8 ~ '52 Vauxhall Astra SRi 2.2 ~ '53 Vauxhall Astra GSi
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

steo
Nova Slayer



Joined: 08 Jun 2009
Karma :

PostPosted: 00:00 - 22 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks noxious for the pat on the head & the kick up the arse but we're all here to help folks that don't have the experience of working on bikes that you have. i try to make things as simple as possible & could have suggested using oiled wet & dry sandpaper which you didn't specify so i said wire wool (not a brillo pad) which maybe less abrasive on the pistons. your thread is accurate to a certain extent if the poster knows what you're talking about but you probably need to come across in layman's terms for people to understand all your technical jargon. sorry for the rant bobo & don't mean to patronise you as this thread is not helping your cause.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

The Artist
Super Spammer



Joined: 06 Jan 2008
Karma :

PostPosted: 01:37 - 22 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

steo wrote:
thanks noxious for the pat on the head & the kick up the arse but we're all here to help folks that don't have the experience of working on bikes that you have. i try to make things as simple as possible & could have suggested using oiled wet & dry sandpaper which you didn't specify so i said wire wool (not a brillo pad) which maybe less abrasive on the pistons. your thread is accurate to a certain extent if the poster knows what you're talking about but you probably need to come across in layman's terms for people to understand all your technical jargon. sorry for the rant bobo & don't mean to patronise you as this thread is not helping your cause.


You don't want anything abrasive near the pistons.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

steo
Nova Slayer



Joined: 08 Jun 2009
Karma :

PostPosted: 08:39 - 22 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

read my last thread again allymoss, i didn't suggest using anything abrasive & unless caliper pistons are now manufactured from candle wax, lightly rubbing with wire wool & brake fluid is not going to take the crome coating off the pistons. i'm done with this particular post as i'm sure the person with the brake problem has all the info they need but i am looking forward to reading what you & the other 'johnny come lately' have to contribute to future posts. hopefully you will start off the replies & not wait to find out what other people's thoughts are before posting a thread.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

Davie_G71
World Chat Champion



Joined: 18 Sep 2007
Karma :

PostPosted: 08:46 - 22 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

As has been said - just use brake fluid and some cloth for cleaning the pistons - nothing abraisive in any shape or form if you have any pitting or scratches on the pistons then replace them.

Also when you take the seals out clean all of the crud out from the seal seats, there will be loads caused from oxidisation and general road grime. Spray some brake cleaner into the seat seals after cleaning and this will dislodge all the wee fragments that you have left behind from cleaning, brake cleaner won't damage your seals.

WD40 can be used, but this could damage your seals, but ok if you use a bit of brake cleaner afterwards.

David.
____________________
Suzuki GSXR600 SRAD, 1997 & Kawasaki Z1000, 2003.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

Noxious89123
World Chat Champion



Joined: 10 Jun 2007
Karma :

PostPosted: 10:20 - 22 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

steo wrote:
thanks noxious for the pat on the head & the kick up the arse but we're all here to help folks that don't have the experience of working on bikes that you have. i try to make things as simple as possible & could have suggested using oiled wet & dry sandpaper which you didn't specify so i said wire wool (not a brillo pad) which maybe less abrasive on the pistons. your thread is accurate to a certain extent if the poster knows what you're talking about but you probably need to come across in layman's terms for people to understand all your technical jargon. sorry for the rant bobo & don't mean to patronise you as this thread is not helping your cause.


Steo, I wasn't trying to be an arse, and can't really tell if you are trying to be one or not. Confused

Don't want to give you a "kick up the arse" as you are trying to help, but advising use of wire wool or "oiled wet and dry" to clean brake pistons is an incredibly bad peice of advice.

Also, there was zero technical jargon in my post, and if the person asking the question needs an answer in "laymans terms" they really should not be working on their brake system!

And my level of experience on working on bikes is what i have learned by reading how other people have done it, asking questions, watching other people do it, and doing it with assistance by someone that knows what they are doing.

As such, I have the knowledge and confidence in myself to do some things with my bike (Haynes manuals ftw). Cleaning brake calipers is pretty easy if you know what's what. I have never split a pair of calipers and changed seals though, and wouldn't want to without an assistant for the fist time.

If I was trying to be a nob, I'd have pointed out in this thread that you ride a bike, and that they are called sprockets... And capital letters and paragraphs wouldn't kill you.

Wink
____________________
'06 Honda CBR125RW-6 ~ '00 Honda CBR600F-Y ~ '07 Honda CBR600RR-7 ~ Bikeless Sad
'53 Ford Ka 1.3 ~ '03 Vauxhall Astra SRi 1.8 ~ '52 Vauxhall Astra SRi 2.2 ~ '53 Vauxhall Astra GSi
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Mr Hammers
World Chat Champion



Joined: 10 Jul 2008
Karma :

PostPosted: 15:07 - 22 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's also worth checking that the tiny return hole in the master cylinder isn't blocked.

If it is, it means that as the brake gets hot and the fluid expands, it has nowhere to go except to push out the calipers, instead of back into the master cylinder.

An easy visual check is to remove the reservoir cover, and when pulling the brake on and off to look for a small disturbance in the fluid.

Anyway, good luck Thumbs Up
____________________
A Guide To Powerbands
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

TUG
World Chat Champion



Joined: 12 May 2007
Karma :

PostPosted: 19:42 - 22 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can tell you how to over haul your brakes so they're like new if your good enough with the spanners?
You would need :-
Bottle of brake fluid
Brake oil seal
Brake Dust seal
A pick at 45-90 degree angle or bent screw driver
Pair of mole grips or pliers
Vice
Red grease.

If memory serves me the front brake on the CBR125 is a 1 pot slider?
You need to take your brake pads out, take the caliper off, pump the lever untill the piston is on its last stroke or gets forced out, now depending on how badly your seals have swollen, you should be able to wiggle the piston out with the caliper in hand.

Remove both seals, get your pick or screw driver thats bent and scrape out all of the white corrosion and make sure you get all of it out.
To put the new seals in takes a bit of fiddling so be patient, you should have some red grease at hand to apply to the seals and piston, When you have seated the seals correctly you can now insert the piston and it should slide in after an initial bit of posistioning and gentle persuasion.

Once the piston is back in the caliper you will then need to bleed the brake, refit the pads and caliper to the fork leg, you will need a brake bleeding kit or clear tube and empty bottle.
To bleed your brake get an 8mm spanner, put the clear tube on after the spanner, hold the brake lever in with a full master cylinder and undo the bleed nipple, then pump away until the master cylinder gets low at this point you need to hold the lever in and tighten the bleed nipple, top up the fluid again and then repeat untill you cant see anymore air bubbles in the clear tube.
____________________
Haz ER-5, innit!
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

Noxious89123
World Chat Champion



Joined: 10 Jun 2007
Karma :

PostPosted: 21:18 - 22 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just to add; brake fluid could also be used to lube the seals and pistons for reassembly, if you haven't got any red rubber grease.

Thumbs Up
____________________
'06 Honda CBR125RW-6 ~ '00 Honda CBR600F-Y ~ '07 Honda CBR600RR-7 ~ Bikeless Sad
'53 Ford Ka 1.3 ~ '03 Vauxhall Astra SRi 1.8 ~ '52 Vauxhall Astra SRi 2.2 ~ '53 Vauxhall Astra GSi
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

TUG
World Chat Champion



Joined: 12 May 2007
Karma :

PostPosted: 21:22 - 22 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Noxious89123 wrote:
Just to add; brake fluid could also be used to lube the seals and pistons for reassembly, if you haven't got any red rubber grease.

Thumbs Up

Yep it could your correct noxious but grease doesnt run everywhere like the fluid will, i use red grease cos we have it in mass stock and keeps mess down and is easier to while off my gloves also.
Not disagreing with you mind. Thumbs Up Very Happy
____________________
Haz ER-5, innit!
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

Noxious89123
World Chat Champion



Joined: 10 Jun 2007
Karma :

PostPosted: 21:32 - 22 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

What would happen if some of the grease got on the inside of the seals, so it was trapped inside the hydraulic system?

I would have also suggested silicone grease (wonderful stuff, never sets or hardens) but can't imagine it would be good if it got into the brake fluid.
____________________
'06 Honda CBR125RW-6 ~ '00 Honda CBR600F-Y ~ '07 Honda CBR600RR-7 ~ Bikeless Sad
'53 Ford Ka 1.3 ~ '03 Vauxhall Astra SRi 1.8 ~ '52 Vauxhall Astra SRi 2.2 ~ '53 Vauxhall Astra GSi
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

TUG
World Chat Champion



Joined: 12 May 2007
Karma :

PostPosted: 21:34 - 22 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Noxious89123 wrote:
What would happen if some of the grease got on the inside of the seals, so it was trapped inside the hydraulic system?

I would have also suggested silicone grease (wonderful stuff, never sets or hardens) but can't imagine it would be good if it got into the brake fluid.

Never had that happen yet cos the grease cant get past the seals in theory can it Wink unless you plaster it with the stuff at the bottom then your bound to get some inside, what i ment what the sides of the piston to ease it in that way very little gets past if any.
It makes the job easier cos i tried it with and without and with was miles easier without effort. Thumbs Up Very Happy
____________________
Haz ER-5, innit!
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

TUG
World Chat Champion



Joined: 12 May 2007
Karma :

PostPosted: 20:29 - 23 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ow you'll need to squeeze the brake pipe to gain pressure, clamp the pipe, then hold, pump the brake, keep held and release the pipe you will hear all the air inside gettin moved repeat this till you have pressure then bleed.
I did a rear caliper on a DT125 today like brand new now. Thumbs Up
____________________
Haz ER-5, innit!
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

StevRS
Scooby Slapper



Joined: 25 Jun 2009
Karma :

PostPosted: 12:51 - 25 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you're not looking to change the fluid, which can be fiddly if you're new to it (and you certainly don't want to balls it up!!) then you can take the brake fluid reservoir cap off and this will allow you to push the piston back (a spanner across he piston with a thumb at either end will move it back - it might be quite firm) to get the pads back in and over the disk after cleaning.

At this point you can rough up the pads and disk surface if you like to remove scoring or corrosion as well as check wear, clean up any brake dust (don't inhale it) with brake dust agressor and a cloth. Smile
____________________
MV Agusta Brutale 800 RR, Unfinished 1978 XS250
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Noxious89123
World Chat Champion



Joined: 10 Jun 2007
Karma :

PostPosted: 20:45 - 25 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why remove the res cap to push the pistons back in? Confused

You can do all of that stuff you just said, without removing the res cap...
____________________
'06 Honda CBR125RW-6 ~ '00 Honda CBR600F-Y ~ '07 Honda CBR600RR-7 ~ Bikeless Sad
'53 Ford Ka 1.3 ~ '03 Vauxhall Astra SRi 1.8 ~ '52 Vauxhall Astra SRi 2.2 ~ '53 Vauxhall Astra GSi
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

TUG
World Chat Champion



Joined: 12 May 2007
Karma :

PostPosted: 20:48 - 25 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Noxious89123 wrote:
Why remove the res cap to push the pistons back in? Confused

You can do all of that stuff you just said, without removing the res cap...

Because there will be trapped air in the res and the pressure in there will stop the fluid traveling up to some degree but unless the res is fairly full it shouldnt make to big of a difference in theory, i'm rebuilding my SRAD calipers soon, i might do a nice write up on them if i have time/remember.
____________________
Haz ER-5, innit!
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

StevRS
Scooby Slapper



Joined: 25 Jun 2009
Karma :

PostPosted: 10:34 - 26 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Noxious89123 wrote:
Why remove the res cap to push the pistons back in? Confused


Because it makes moving the piston back much easier.
____________________
MV Agusta Brutale 800 RR, Unfinished 1978 XS250
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

the grim reaper
World Chat Champion



Joined: 29 Jun 2005
Karma :

PostPosted: 10:42 - 26 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

StevRS wrote:
Noxious89123 wrote:
Why remove the res cap to push the pistons back in? Confused


Because it makes moving the piston back much easier.


No, it doesn't, the fluid movement is restricted by the master cylinder, which sits between the reservoir and the caliper, hence taking the reservoir lid off is not going to make any difference.

FWIW, cleaning behind the seals is the most important part of stopping binding brakes, brake fluid crystallises in there and pushes the seals out against the piston, stopping the piston from returning and holding the pads against the disc.

Cheers

Grim
____________________
Adverts don't always work: Remember that advert, where the army are running across the desert and they have a wounded man on a stretcher. They get to a ravine, the bridge is down and a caption pops up that says, 'What are you thinking?'. I don't know about you but I was thinking, 'Christ, I'm glad I'm not in the f***ing army'.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Noxious89123
World Chat Champion



Joined: 10 Jun 2007
Karma :

PostPosted: 18:58 - 26 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

So many thing I'd like to do, but need to save £££ for a car, and I'll never get there if I keep blowing money on my bike....

Things to add to the wish list;
Braided Lines
New brake pads
New brake fluid

Is i easy to get the old seals out without fubar'ing them, or will they likely need replacing if removed?
____________________
'06 Honda CBR125RW-6 ~ '00 Honda CBR600F-Y ~ '07 Honda CBR600RR-7 ~ Bikeless Sad
'53 Ford Ka 1.3 ~ '03 Vauxhall Astra SRi 1.8 ~ '52 Vauxhall Astra SRi 2.2 ~ '53 Vauxhall Astra GSi
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

TUG
World Chat Champion



Joined: 12 May 2007
Karma :

PostPosted: 19:30 - 26 Jun 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Noxious89123 wrote:
So many thing I'd like to do, but need to save £££ for a car, and I'll never get there if I keep blowing money on my bike....

Things to add to the wish list;
Braided Lines
New brake pads
New brake fluid

Is i easy to get the old seals out without fubar'ing them, or will they likely need replacing if removed?

if you work fast then it wont really affect them, they swell over time anyway, that why mine on my GSXR had seized due to lack of use, i did my fron calipers today and the pistons just slid straight in, smooth braking for me? Yes please, i can do one caliper in 30 mins which is a bit long but i like to make sure i get every last bit of the corosion out.
____________________
Haz ER-5, innit!
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts
Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 16 years, 231 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
  Display posts from previous:   
This page may contain affiliate links, which means we may earn a small commission if a visitor clicks through and makes a purchase. By clicking on an affiliate link, you accept that third-party cookies will be set.

Post new topic   Reply to topic    Bike Chat Forums Index -> The Workshop All times are GMT
Page 1 of 1

 
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You cannot download files in this forum

Read the Terms of Use! - Powered by phpBB © phpBB Group
 

Debug Mode: ON - Server: birks (www) - Page Generation Time: 0.10 Sec - Server Load: 0.84 - MySQL Queries: 13 - Page Size: 130.82 Kb