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| grandmasterbo... |
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 grandmasterbo... Scooby Slapper

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| steo |
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 steo Nova Slayer
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| Finglonga |
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 Finglonga World Chat Champion

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 Posted: 17:25 - 21 Jun 2009 Post subject: |
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| Noxious89123 |
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 Noxious89123 World Chat Champion

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| steo |
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 steo Nova Slayer
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| The Artist |
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 The Artist Super Spammer

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| steo |
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 steo Nova Slayer
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| Davie_G71 |
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 Davie_G71 World Chat Champion

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| Noxious89123 |
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 Noxious89123 World Chat Champion

Joined: 10 Jun 2007 Karma :    
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 Posted: 10:20 - 22 Jun 2009 Post subject: |
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| steo wrote: | thanks noxious for the pat on the head & the kick up the arse but we're all here to help folks that don't have the experience of working on bikes that you have. i try to make things as simple as possible & could have suggested using oiled wet & dry sandpaper which you didn't specify so i said wire wool (not a brillo pad) which maybe less abrasive on the pistons. your thread is accurate to a certain extent if the poster knows what you're talking about but you probably need to come across in layman's terms for people to understand all your technical jargon. sorry for the rant bobo & don't mean to patronise you as this thread is not helping your cause. |
Steo, I wasn't trying to be an arse, and can't really tell if you are trying to be one or not.
Don't want to give you a "kick up the arse" as you are trying to help, but advising use of wire wool or "oiled wet and dry" to clean brake pistons is an incredibly bad peice of advice.
Also, there was zero technical jargon in my post, and if the person asking the question needs an answer in "laymans terms" they really should not be working on their brake system!
And my level of experience on working on bikes is what i have learned by reading how other people have done it, asking questions, watching other people do it, and doing it with assistance by someone that knows what they are doing.
As such, I have the knowledge and confidence in myself to do some things with my bike (Haynes manuals ftw). Cleaning brake calipers is pretty easy if you know what's what. I have never split a pair of calipers and changed seals though, and wouldn't want to without an assistant for the fist time.
If I was trying to be a nob, I'd have pointed out in this thread that you ride a bike, and that they are called sprockets... And capital letters and paragraphs wouldn't kill you.
 ____________________
'06 Honda CBR125RW-6 ~ '00 Honda CBR600F-Y ~ '07 Honda CBR600RR-7 ~ Bikeless
'53 Ford Ka 1.3 ~ '03 Vauxhall Astra SRi 1.8 ~ '52 Vauxhall Astra SRi 2.2 ~ '53 Vauxhall Astra GSi |
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| Mr Hammers |
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 Mr Hammers World Chat Champion

Joined: 10 Jul 2008 Karma :   
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 Posted: 15:07 - 22 Jun 2009 Post subject: |
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It's also worth checking that the tiny return hole in the master cylinder isn't blocked.
If it is, it means that as the brake gets hot and the fluid expands, it has nowhere to go except to push out the calipers, instead of back into the master cylinder.
An easy visual check is to remove the reservoir cover, and when pulling the brake on and off to look for a small disturbance in the fluid.
Anyway, good luck  ____________________ A Guide To Powerbands |
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| TUG |
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 TUG World Chat Champion
Joined: 12 May 2007 Karma :  
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 Posted: 19:42 - 22 Jun 2009 Post subject: |
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I can tell you how to over haul your brakes so they're like new if your good enough with the spanners?
You would need :-
Bottle of brake fluid
Brake oil seal
Brake Dust seal
A pick at 45-90 degree angle or bent screw driver
Pair of mole grips or pliers
Vice
Red grease.
If memory serves me the front brake on the CBR125 is a 1 pot slider?
You need to take your brake pads out, take the caliper off, pump the lever untill the piston is on its last stroke or gets forced out, now depending on how badly your seals have swollen, you should be able to wiggle the piston out with the caliper in hand.
Remove both seals, get your pick or screw driver thats bent and scrape out all of the white corrosion and make sure you get all of it out.
To put the new seals in takes a bit of fiddling so be patient, you should have some red grease at hand to apply to the seals and piston, When you have seated the seals correctly you can now insert the piston and it should slide in after an initial bit of posistioning and gentle persuasion.
Once the piston is back in the caliper you will then need to bleed the brake, refit the pads and caliper to the fork leg, you will need a brake bleeding kit or clear tube and empty bottle.
To bleed your brake get an 8mm spanner, put the clear tube on after the spanner, hold the brake lever in with a full master cylinder and undo the bleed nipple, then pump away until the master cylinder gets low at this point you need to hold the lever in and tighten the bleed nipple, top up the fluid again and then repeat untill you cant see anymore air bubbles in the clear tube. ____________________ Haz ER-5, innit! |
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| Noxious89123 |
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 Noxious89123 World Chat Champion

Joined: 10 Jun 2007 Karma :    
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 Posted: 21:18 - 22 Jun 2009 Post subject: |
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Just to add; brake fluid could also be used to lube the seals and pistons for reassembly, if you haven't got any red rubber grease.
 ____________________
'06 Honda CBR125RW-6 ~ '00 Honda CBR600F-Y ~ '07 Honda CBR600RR-7 ~ Bikeless
'53 Ford Ka 1.3 ~ '03 Vauxhall Astra SRi 1.8 ~ '52 Vauxhall Astra SRi 2.2 ~ '53 Vauxhall Astra GSi |
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| TUG |
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 TUG World Chat Champion
Joined: 12 May 2007 Karma :  
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 Posted: 21:22 - 22 Jun 2009 Post subject: |
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| Noxious89123 |
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 Noxious89123 World Chat Champion

Joined: 10 Jun 2007 Karma :    
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 Posted: 21:32 - 22 Jun 2009 Post subject: |
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What would happen if some of the grease got on the inside of the seals, so it was trapped inside the hydraulic system?
I would have also suggested silicone grease (wonderful stuff, never sets or hardens) but can't imagine it would be good if it got into the brake fluid. ____________________
'06 Honda CBR125RW-6 ~ '00 Honda CBR600F-Y ~ '07 Honda CBR600RR-7 ~ Bikeless
'53 Ford Ka 1.3 ~ '03 Vauxhall Astra SRi 1.8 ~ '52 Vauxhall Astra SRi 2.2 ~ '53 Vauxhall Astra GSi |
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| TUG |
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 TUG World Chat Champion
Joined: 12 May 2007 Karma :  
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 Posted: 21:34 - 22 Jun 2009 Post subject: |
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| TUG |
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 TUG World Chat Champion
Joined: 12 May 2007 Karma :  
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 Posted: 20:29 - 23 Jun 2009 Post subject: |
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Ow you'll need to squeeze the brake pipe to gain pressure, clamp the pipe, then hold, pump the brake, keep held and release the pipe you will hear all the air inside gettin moved repeat this till you have pressure then bleed.
I did a rear caliper on a DT125 today like brand new now.  ____________________ Haz ER-5, innit! |
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| StevRS |
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 StevRS Scooby Slapper
Joined: 25 Jun 2009 Karma :     
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 Posted: 12:51 - 25 Jun 2009 Post subject: |
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If you're not looking to change the fluid, which can be fiddly if you're new to it (and you certainly don't want to balls it up!!) then you can take the brake fluid reservoir cap off and this will allow you to push the piston back (a spanner across he piston with a thumb at either end will move it back - it might be quite firm) to get the pads back in and over the disk after cleaning.
At this point you can rough up the pads and disk surface if you like to remove scoring or corrosion as well as check wear, clean up any brake dust (don't inhale it) with brake dust agressor and a cloth.  ____________________ MV Agusta Brutale 800 RR, Unfinished 1978 XS250 |
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| Noxious89123 |
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 Noxious89123 World Chat Champion

Joined: 10 Jun 2007 Karma :    
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 Posted: 20:45 - 25 Jun 2009 Post subject: |
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Why remove the res cap to push the pistons back in?
You can do all of that stuff you just said, without removing the res cap... ____________________
'06 Honda CBR125RW-6 ~ '00 Honda CBR600F-Y ~ '07 Honda CBR600RR-7 ~ Bikeless
'53 Ford Ka 1.3 ~ '03 Vauxhall Astra SRi 1.8 ~ '52 Vauxhall Astra SRi 2.2 ~ '53 Vauxhall Astra GSi |
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| TUG |
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 TUG World Chat Champion
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| StevRS |
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 StevRS Scooby Slapper
Joined: 25 Jun 2009 Karma :     
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| the grim reaper |
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 the grim reaper World Chat Champion

Joined: 29 Jun 2005 Karma :   
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 Posted: 10:42 - 26 Jun 2009 Post subject: |
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| StevRS wrote: | | Noxious89123 wrote: | Why remove the res cap to push the pistons back in? |
Because it makes moving the piston back much easier. |
No, it doesn't, the fluid movement is restricted by the master cylinder, which sits between the reservoir and the caliper, hence taking the reservoir lid off is not going to make any difference.
FWIW, cleaning behind the seals is the most important part of stopping binding brakes, brake fluid crystallises in there and pushes the seals out against the piston, stopping the piston from returning and holding the pads against the disc.
Cheers
Grim ____________________ Adverts don't always work: Remember that advert, where the army are running across the desert and they have a wounded man on a stretcher. They get to a ravine, the bridge is down and a caption pops up that says, 'What are you thinking?'. I don't know about you but I was thinking, 'Christ, I'm glad I'm not in the f***ing army'. |
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| Noxious89123 |
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 Noxious89123 World Chat Champion

Joined: 10 Jun 2007 Karma :    
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 Posted: 18:58 - 26 Jun 2009 Post subject: |
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So many thing I'd like to do, but need to save £££ for a car, and I'll never get there if I keep blowing money on my bike....
Things to add to the wish list;
Braided Lines
New brake pads
New brake fluid
Is i easy to get the old seals out without fubar'ing them, or will they likely need replacing if removed? ____________________
'06 Honda CBR125RW-6 ~ '00 Honda CBR600F-Y ~ '07 Honda CBR600RR-7 ~ Bikeless
'53 Ford Ka 1.3 ~ '03 Vauxhall Astra SRi 1.8 ~ '52 Vauxhall Astra SRi 2.2 ~ '53 Vauxhall Astra GSi |
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| TUG |
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 TUG World Chat Champion
Joined: 12 May 2007 Karma :  
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 16 years, 231 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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