NSR125R Bike Dies when changing from Nutral to In Gear

[stormofsilenc...]

Hi I’ll get strait to the point, but try and give you any information that may help.

My bike has been standing for a couple of months now, covered at my parents house. I’ve had this problem with the bike needing to be bump started as the battery goes flat after a while of being in suite. After bumping the bike I took it for a quick ride and pulled up at my destination (with no problems if anything the bike was running well). When I pulled up and turned off the engine, put the bike on it’s stand etc and was walking away the bikes alarm kicked in with its standard double beep.

When I returned to the machine, I pressed the key fob but the alarm did nothing, I took this as it being temperamental because of the very flat battery (this no noise of deactivation has happened before) I got on the bike, put it in neutral and tried to bump the bike into 2nd but the bike just didn’t run. I came to the conclusion because the battery was so flat the alarm/immobiliser got stuck on. So I put the bike somewhere safe and removed the battery, took it home and charged it.

Sorry if this is long winded I just want everything covered.

When I returned to the bike and re-inserted the battery the bike would then electric start etc. But again nothing from the alarm/immobiliser, nothing at all. I put it in neutral and started the bike – fine. But when I pulled the clutch in an put the bike in First the bike just dies, cuts out. I also tied this from N into Second. But again, the same results.

To cut the ending short, my brother and I (he being more mechanically minded) took the bike home and, altered the clutch because it was slightly loose, and tried with the alarm box removed, same results.

I’m really stumped on this one, is it the immobiliser? Remember the bike starts fine in Neutral.

Is it something else?

Any help is much appreciated as I’m a Student and money is something that evades me.

Cheers, Si

Honda NSR 125R 03 Red/White/Blue
Alarm is a Meta System Alarm - £300- worth (put on by bikes first owner)

[Timmeh]

1. Get the bike's rear up in the air and make sure the rear wheel spins relatively freely when its in neutral with both the engine on and off. If not, the clutch is dragging.

2. Failing that, chances are the sidestand switch or wiring isn't working properly, and it thinks its always down. This will of course kill the ignition if you put it into gear.

HTH
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GSXR400 x2 | '94 RVF400 | '93 TZR125 4DL (again)
20:22:30 BLUEX5: i would love to be forced to undergo a**l plugging with different sizes
20:48:18 Temeluchus: comp you hunk of smouldering homos3x you

[tshort2007]

i get this with a lot with my AR, and my brothers NS. We find sometimes the clutch plates stick together when cold, so to release it, we hold the revs at around 2500, hold the front brake, hold the clutch handle in and then kick it into first. the shock frees the plates up, although they do stick for a few minuites until the oil warms slightly. once free, let off the throttle, and it should idle fine, although sometimes slightly under normal tickover speed.

Try it, saves pullin the engine apart! Good quality oil helps resolve it

[Timmeh]

[stormofsilenc...]

Well its not the Side stand switch because there is a light on the dash which goes out when the stand is put up, (the little sensor did come off once though which was annoying) but apart from that im in the dark. The bike was fine, its really strange how the bike dies, if the clutch was not working correctly the bike would jolt forward, but it doesnt.

Also its a bit strange that the alarm etc stops working, beeping or complaining at the same time, but I don't understand how the bike still electric starts in neutral.

Cheers so far.

[yen_powell]

Has it got a clutch switch on the handlebar lever?
____________________
Blackmail is a nasty word........but not as nasty as phlegm!
XT1200Z and a DR350 in bits

[stormofsilenc...]

You know I was going to say about that, there are 2 wires coming out of the clutch lever (apart from the obvious clutch cable) do you think it could be that?

Any idea how I can fix it or test it? Its not the side stand as like I said before the light on the dash goes out when the stand is raised.

Also whats up with my alarm/immobilizer then? It that ok just being broke, as it starts, so is the immobilizer disengaged? as one day the alarm will probably decide to come back to life...as is my luck.

So, perhaps the clutch sensor?...cheers so far, a great help chaps!

Si

[stormofsilenc...]

Sorry CHR15 we did remove the alarm, it took some pannel removing, but we pulled the plug out of it (with like 15 connectors inside) but I'm not sure if thats all of the alarm, is the immobilizer a separate box? buried somewhere else?

Be nice to know, even just for future reference.

Well I'll have a look see and if I can I'll remove the wires and place them together like you said.

I'll get back to you if it works.

Cheers.

[tone]

You can bypass the clutch & side stand switches temperarly by joining the wires with a piece of spare wire across the connectors

I doubt the alarm/ immobiliser is at fault if you have removeed it properly as they are normally wired into the starter circuit at the solinoid & the bike wouldnt start at all if you had messed this up

Let us know how you get on
____________________
Of all the things ive lost , i miss my mind the most

[alains]

on this bike you cannot engage a gear with the side stand down
____________________
the worst day fishing is better than the best day working

[stormofsilenc...]

[dlatch]

quite poss the side stand switch connects to another control box which will be imobilising the engine

stupid question time u checked for a spark?

if no spark then the alarm and sidestand switching if the highly likely culprit

[Timmeh]

[stormofsilenc...]

Ok i checked the Clutch switch by pulling the connectors off the Clutch lever and manually connecting them.

Again nothing, the bike just dies when going into 1st or 2nd from neutral.

Im very grateful al all the help and comments I've had so far!

Any other ideas?

[Timmeh]

Get yourself a wiring diagram (in haynes or off the net)

I've found one but it's in B&W which isn't very helpful.

Trace the wiring from pin 3 of the starter relay back towards the gearbox. Now find the neutral switch which will be a single wire coming out of the crankcase somewhere. Somewhere on the bike these two cables will meet. What you're looking for is a small diode with two wires coming out of it.

If the diode is not working, then the bike will always think it is in gear, regardless of whether the neutral light is on or not. A diode only conducts electricy one way, so if it is working you'll get continuity (using a multimeter) with the +ve on the side with the little stripe but none if you swop the test leads over. If you get continuity both times, or neither then you've found your answer!

As you've discounted everything else I hope this will be the solution.


____________________
GSXR400 x2 | '94 RVF400 | '93 TZR125 4DL (again)
20:22:30 BLUEX5: i would love to be forced to undergo a**l plugging with different sizes
20:48:18 Temeluchus: comp you hunk of smouldering homos3x you

[alains]

i've got the diagram but in french , see the pict where the diodes are
____________________
the worst day fishing is better than the best day working

[stormofsilenc...]

Well, I think I know where the diodes are, but the problem is the wiring set you have given is quite different to mine as there are splices everywhere where im guessing the alarm etc is wired in, im looking for two white(ish) plastic plugs with diodes in, now are you saying the diodes are 3pin? as this may help me find them, as the wiring on the NSR is very tight and I dont have a lot of free space to grab things.

If you can get me a pic of the kind of thing im looking for it would be much appreciated.

Thanks very much, your a massive help. (also whats a diode cost to replace?)

Cheers.

[alains]

here are the honda references
31700-124-003
31700-196-000
____________________
the worst day fishing is better than the best day working

[stormofsilenc...]

Both of those codes are rectifiers not diodes.

So are they the same thing?

Not to bad tbh, like 20euro each so like what £30odd?...maybe more with the current state of the pound

Cheers

[iooi]

[Whosthedaddy]

[alains]

they are traced as rectifier but diode=rectifier . if you apply AC on a diode they will allowed only the positive half of the periode
in fact the result is a wavy periode
____________________
the worst day fishing is better than the best day working

[stormofsilenc...]

[alains]

put you multimeter on Ohmmeter (0-100K) . check between both contacts then reverse your wires , you must have continuity in one way not the other
____________________
the worst day fishing is better than the best day working

[stormofsilenc...]