Wiring Diagram

[binge]

I need somebody to simplify a wiring harness for me.

I basically need to add a battery to my pit bike Hybrid because the output on the Reg/Rec is a bit high. And I also need a battery pack so I can run a Powervalve servo properly. As it needs to activate before the engine is started etc.



This is what I have in mind:


https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v358/binge/LOOM.jpg



I have no idea what the brown wire is for, I've been told its for "ignition". So not sure. I know it comes out of the reg/rec. Tested it on the Multimeter and barely 1 volt is coming from it when the bike is running.




Ben

[finpos]

Looks correct. You don't actually have to run the (black) wire from the reg/rec to the battery, you can earth it through the frame.

My <guess> about the brown wire is that it's a sense wire, in which case it's supposed to give feedback to the reg/rec about what the voltage is like out on the edges of the loom, not just at the battery terminals - it's possible there will be a slight drop. As such, it's usually connected to a live 12V somewhere down-loom of the ignition (key) switch, which is why it may have been described to you as such. If it is a sense wire, it really should be tied to a 12V supply somewhere.

f.

[finpos]

...also it's often more convenient to run the red wire from the reg/rec only as far as the unfused side of the fuse holder, or to the live side of the starter relay, depending on where all the components are. Just saves trailing wires back and forward.

f.

[Pete.]

I fitted a honda rec to a Suzuki and it had an extra wire that had to be connected to switched live, can't remember the colour sorry.

I did find this on another site yesterday though:
____________________
a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[binge]

So could that brown wire be why I am getting readings of 17/18 volts from the reg/rec at low RPM?

When I rev the bike, the voltage output drops to 12~




Ben

[Blue_SV650S]

[binge]

Hmm, I might wire that brown wire to the back of the +tive on the headlight then. See what happens.




Ben

[Blue_SV650S]

[binge]

Hopefully it will work. The last thing I want to do is wire this Powervalve servo up and cook it by putting 18v through it.

[Blue_SV650S]

[binge]

I've been looking at 12v powercells on ebay for about £10.
Thing is, Wont the Reg/Rec overcook that?




Ben

[finpos]

The sense function will only modify the output voltage of the regulator by about +/-1V according to load, and relatively slowly at that.

f.

[finpos]

I would have though you would get away with it, the reg/rec charges batteries pretty slowly (like a trickle charger). Depends entirely on the characteristics of the battery, but at any rate it should last a couple of years, which is pretty much what you'll get out of a cheap bike battery.

f.

[Blue_SV650S]

[binge]

Right seen.

I just have NO room to mount a conventional bike battery. At all.
What if I was to break one of the output wires from the stator?

I know with my pit bike stator, There were 2 wires from stator to Reg/Rec, Then 2 from Reg/Rec to loom.

But on certain race engines they only had 1 wire from the Stator to the Reg/Rec, Which was to power a single headlight for enduro riding etc.
The other wire from the stator was cut and earthed to the the stator plate. And the output to the reg/rec was so small that it wouldn't power my lights or horn properly until I re-connected the extra wire from the stator.





Ben

[Blue_SV650S]

You have 3 yellow wires, so have a 3 phase system. They are 3-phase as lead-acid batteries last longer when charged with pure DC. Having the 3 phases means once rectified, its a closer approximation to pure DC than say a single phase that pumps more out - picture it as riding the crest of 3 overlapping waves verses riding up the huge peeks and of a single - You are up and down less ...

Basically don't go chopping wires

What you could do is add more load to the system so there are other things using up some of the energy. For example if it has a 35w headlight, put a larger wattage bulb in there (do watch it if your headlight wires are pathetic - might be best to double up so as not to melt them). You could also put a resistor in there somewhere ...

Perhaps consider putting a fan over the reg/rec to aid its cooling (and to use up a little bit more juice) ... re-locate it so it is in direct cool airflow ... perhaps put a computer heat-sink on it too???

As long as the reg/rec can keep suitably cool/get rid of the heat, you will be OK with a tiddy battery
____________________
The purpose of life is to fight maturity.

[finpos]

If you have no room for a battery, you can try replacing it with a big sod-off capacitor, which will have the same effect in taming your regulator output. Basically just connect the + and - terminals on the capacitor as you would a battery. Still big but not battery big.

You'll need one that's about 25,000mf to 50,000mf, rated for 20V or more. There's a couple going on ebay now for peanuts.

f.

[binge]

Okay I'll have a look around.
Gonna have a go at connecting the brown wire to a 12v on the bike first to see how I get on.


The headlight is only bright (18v) when the bike is idling. Once I rev it, The voltage drops to 12v~ and the light dims.



Ben