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ZX6R Brake Calipers

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Jayy
Mr. Ponzi



Joined: 08 Jun 2009
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PostPosted: 21:06 - 14 Sep 2009    Post subject: ZX6R Brake Calipers Reply with quote
My back disc gets extremely hot when I put my hand on it after a ride and there's a distinct "CLICK" as it's cooling down every couple of minutes.

Someone told me I need to have the back brake caliper stripped down and sorted out? Is this true and how much would it cost for a mechanic to do it? (I can't do it myself)
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.....
Quote Me Happy



Joined: 15 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: 21:12 - 14 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote
You might be surprised how easy it is to strip and clean a caliper. All you really need is some brake fluid, new seals and a soft brush.

I thunk there are some guides on here somewhere.

Might be worth checking that the disc isn't warped as well.
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Jayy
Mr. Ponzi



Joined: 08 Jun 2009
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PostPosted: 21:20 - 14 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote
Thing is, I don't know anything about engines or mechanics, so I wouldn't know if it was safe or I had done it properly. Computers are my speciality yet I have people call me up an ask how much to replace a stick of memory in their PC... simple job to someone who knows but people just want re-assurance it's done properly.

I don't mind paying for stuff, like I'm about to pay my mechanic £15 just to fit a K&N air filter for me. I know an air filter sounds really simple but I wouldn't know where to start and wouldn't want to fuck anything up.
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



Joined: 21 Sep 2005
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PostPosted: 23:07 - 14 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote
Are you sure it's not your riding position? It is every easy to drag the rear brake.
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Kickstart
The Oracle



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 23:27 - 14 Sep 2009    Post subject: Re: ZX6R Brake Calipers Reply with quote
jay-recoil wrote:
Someone told me I need to have the back brake caliper stripped down and sorted out? Is this true and how much would it cost for a mechanic to do it? (I can't do it myself)


Assuming it is the single piston sliding caliper that Kawasaki often seem to use then it is pretty easy. However they will need to clean up behind the seals, probably put in new seals and possibly put in a new piston, and also check it is free to slide on its carrier. Nothing difficult but can be a bit time consuming.

Chris' suggestion above is well worth checking first though.

All the best

Keith
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Jayy
Mr. Ponzi



Joined: 08 Jun 2009
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PostPosted: 23:47 - 14 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote
Well this was the first thing my mechanic said to me, it's your boots. He told me to take it out, for 30 mins or so, don't use the back brake if I can get away with it and feel the back disc.

I took it out for 30 mins, didn't touch the back brake and when I put my hand on it, it was red hot.
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Irezumi aka Reuben
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Joined: 28 Sep 2004
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PostPosted: 08:00 - 15 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote
It may well not be the caliper but the disc.

The disc I beleive is a fully floating one. The little circles that make it 'floating' get stuck somehow(no idea what the technical term is). Put some penetrating fluid in there and go for a ride. Hopefully this will stop the overheating and pinging sound you get by allowing the disc to 'float' properly.
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Noxious89123
World Chat Champion



Joined: 10 Jun 2007
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PostPosted: 19:45 - 15 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote
Reuben wrote:
It may well not be the caliper but the disc.

The disc I beleive is a fully floating one. The little circles that make it 'floating' get stuck somehow(no idea what the technical term is). Put some penetrating fluid in there and go for a ride. Hopefully this will stop the overheating and pinging sound you get by allowing the disc to 'float' properly.


Bad advice! If you put any kind of oil on there and then go ride, it will run out to the edge, across the surface of the disc, when it spins! Even if you only use tiny amounts! If you must do this, I'd think it was a better idea to sprray some on, leave it for a few hours, then clean off the entire disc with brake cleaner to make sure there's no traces of oil on anything.

I've never quite understood abou floating discs... As far as i was aware, the discs are meant to be fixed in place, totally immovable? Surely if they could move, they would wobble at speed?

It's quite likely that the rear caliper slide bolts or the caliper piston is corroded or covered in crap, stopping i moving properly, causing the brake to drag.
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Irezumi aka Reuben
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PostPosted: 21:28 - 15 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote
Noxious89123 wrote:
Bad advice! If you put any kind of oil on there and then go ride, it will run out to the edge, across the surface of the disc, when it spins! Even if you only use tiny amounts! If you must do this, I'd think it was a better idea to sprray some on, leave it for a few hours, then clean off the entire disc with brake cleaner to make sure there's no traces of oil on anything.

I've never quite understood abou floating discs... As far as i was aware, the discs are meant to be fixed in place, totally immovable? Surely if they could move, they would wobble at speed?

You've first suggested I have given bad advice then admitted that you don't understand about the subject in question. Slightly contradictory. Please do some research in to floating discs, the clue is in the name.

I assumed that when applying this penetrating oil/WD40 to the bobbins the OP would be sensible enough to wipe the disc and take it easy at first.

Regardless of everything I have just said I did not pay attention to the fact the OP said it was a rear disc, which is unlikely to be fully floating in which case my advice is therefore null and void anyway.
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Noxious89123
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Joined: 10 Jun 2007
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PostPosted: 22:02 - 15 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote
Reuben wrote:
Noxious89123 wrote:
I've never quite understood abou floating discs... As far as i was aware, the discs are meant to be fixed in place, totally immovable? Surely if they could move, they would wobble at speed?


You've first suggested I have given bad advice then admitted that you don't understand about the subject in question. Slightly contradictory. Please do some research in to floating discs, the clue is in the name.


And you'll see that in the very post you quoted, I did comment on that myself... I understand what you are saying, it's just that I can't get my head around how "floating" movable discs would actually work...

Doesn't change the fact that using any type of oil near brakes = bad.

And never underestimate someones stupidity. Assume = Ass U Me.
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the grim reaper
World Chat Champion



Joined: 29 Jun 2005
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PostPosted: 12:51 - 16 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote
Reuben wrote:
Noxious89123 wrote:
Bad advice! If you put any kind of oil on there and then go ride, it will run out to the edge, across the surface of the disc, when it spins! Even if you only use tiny amounts! If you must do this, I'd think it was a better idea to sprray some on, leave it for a few hours, then clean off the entire disc with brake cleaner to make sure there's no traces of oil on anything.

I've never quite understood abou floating discs... As far as i was aware, the discs are meant to be fixed in place, totally immovable? Surely if they could move, they would wobble at speed?

You've first suggested I have given bad advice then admitted that you don't understand about the subject in question. Slightly contradictory. Please do some research in to floating discs, the clue is in the name.

I assumed that when applying this penetrating oil/WD40 to the bobbins the OP would be sensible enough to wipe the disc and take it easy at first.

Regardless of everything I have just said I did not pay attention to the fact the OP said it was a rear disc, which is unlikely to be fully floating in which case my advice is therefore null and void anyway.


It is bad advice, any oil on or near the rear disc would end up on the pads and contaminate them. The ZX6R rear disc is not floating, it's solid and mounted to the rear wheel directly.

OP, your caliper needs a strip down, if you're near Southampton I'll do it in under an hour for you. £15 plus brake fluid would cover it. Any mechanic doing that job only should be able to turn it round in well under an hour and charge about £30-40 maximum.

Cheers

Grim
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