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fucked screws

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Rufus
Brolly Dolly



Joined: 04 May 2008
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PostPosted: 00:56 - 21 Sep 2009    Post subject: fucked screws Reply with quote

after all my hard work getting the carbs off the cb (which is a pain in the dick after the lovely and spacious zx6) i found, to my dismay, that some bellend had pretty much rounded all the screws on them. what the hell do i do now?

cheers.
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hmmmnz
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PostPosted: 02:27 - 21 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

cut a notch in them with a hacksaw or a dremmel and undo them with a large flat head screwdriver,
or get some small multi-grips and grip the screw and undo them,
easy as pie,
failing that, grind the top of the screw off, and grip the shaft of the screw, they will easily undo when no weight is on them
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TUG
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PostPosted: 02:38 - 21 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

What has already been said, hacksaw grooves are excellent, double blade your hacksaw for great results. Giving them a great hit with a hammer and a punch is an excellent way aswell as it shocks the threads. Thumbs Up
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Alexio
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PostPosted: 02:52 - 21 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the screws really are fucking (screwing?) as you have claimed in your title, then once you have extracted the old screws and they have finished reproducing you will have some nice new screws to replace them with Thumbs Up

I apologise for the above sentence. It's kind of late.
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will never give up his CG. I look at my fuel gauge more as a progress bar than a fuel gauge.
G: With my GSXR I do often effectively use it as a scooter with a clutch in town.
ms51ves3: why does it need 500 miles? Are you teaching it how to be a piston?
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Rufus
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PostPosted: 15:26 - 21 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

hmmmnz wrote:
cut a notch in them with a hacksaw or a dremmel and undo them with a large flat head screwdriver,
or get some small multi-grips and grip the screw and undo them,
easy as pie,
failing that, grind the top of the screw off, and grip the shaft of the screw, they will easily undo when no weight is on them


XlonewolfX wrote:
What has already been said, hacksaw grooves are excellent, double blade your hacksaw for great results. Giving them a great hit with a hammer and a punch is an excellent way aswell as it shocks the threads. Thumbs Up


cheers, men Thumbs Up off to the garage to put this into practice and to order some stainless steel hex screw replacements Smile thanks.

Alexio wrote:
If the screws really are fucking (screwing?) as you have claimed in your title, then once you have extracted the old screws and they have finished reproducing you will have some nice new screws to replace them with Thumbs Up

I apologise for the above sentence. It's kind of late.


fucked screws, not fucking screws. your humour needs a bit of work Thumbs Up
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Alexio
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PostPosted: 15:36 - 21 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rufus wrote:
fucked screws, not fucking screws. your humour needs a bit of work Thumbs Up


Again, I can only say sorry. I was hallucinating by that hour of the morning. Also, a hammer really can fix most things Cool
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will never give up his CG. I look at my fuel gauge more as a progress bar than a fuel gauge.
G: With my GSXR I do often effectively use it as a scooter with a clutch in town.
ms51ves3: why does it need 500 miles? Are you teaching it how to be a piston?
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



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PostPosted: 15:46 - 21 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alexio wrote:
Also, a hammer really can fix most things Cool


Although hitting Japanese carbs with a hammer is a risky business, the alloy is fragile at best. They crack easily. Especially on the flange around the float bowl where the screws are.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Rufus
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PostPosted: 18:53 - 21 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

managed to clean out the carbs and put em back, now bike won't start Mr. Green any ideas?
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 21:24 - 21 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is it a vacuum fuel tap? Need the float bowls priming?

Cracking open the drain screws and making sure there is fuel getting through is a good first step anyway.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Rufus
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PostPosted: 12:42 - 22 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Is it a vacuum fuel tap? Need the float bowls priming?

Cracking open the drain screws and making sure there is fuel getting through is a good first step anyway.


right, there's fuel going into the carbs. what now? i really am a retard at this.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 13:24 - 22 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rufus wrote:

right, there's fuel going into the carbs. what now? i really am a retard at this.


Check it still has a spark. Check the condition of the sparkplugs (they should be wet if you've been trying to start it for a while).

I sometimes find an engine needs a few drops of fuel putting down the sparkplug holes the first time you restart it after working on it. No idea why but worth a try.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Rufus
Brolly Dolly



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PostPosted: 13:48 - 22 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Rufus wrote:

right, there's fuel going into the carbs. what now? i really am a retard at this.


Check it still has a spark. Check the condition of the sparkplugs (they should be wet if you've been trying to start it for a while).

I sometimes find an engine needs a few drops of fuel putting down the sparkplug holes the first time you restart it after working on it. No idea why but worth a try.


will give it a look in a minute after i've been relieved of looking after the kids Thumbs Up

otherwise i guess i'll just buy a new carb Sad
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Rufus
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PostPosted: 14:47 - 22 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

no change in spark plugs. tried dropping fuel, still nothing. every time i kick it there's not even the slightest sign that the bike wants to tick over, or even a splutter then death. it just won't start lol.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 15:16 - 22 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

So the plugs are dry but fuel is getting to the float bowl? Thinking

Tends to suggest either a massive air leak so there is no vacuum through the carbs (try putting your hand over the choke end as you turn it over, it should suck your hand against the carb) or that one or more of the jets are blocked.

If there is suction throught the carb, fuel in the carb and an open jet, fuel should be getting into the engine and at least making the plugs wet and the exhaust smell of petrol.

Are they CV or slide carbs on your bike?
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Rufus
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PostPosted: 16:26 - 22 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

i have no idea what carbs they are lol. it's a 1980 cb250n...
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Chriss
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PostPosted: 17:11 - 22 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does your throttle cable pull the metal sheet in the carbs open directly?
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Rufus
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PostPosted: 17:16 - 22 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

aye.
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Chriss
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PostPosted: 18:45 - 22 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Slide carbs then.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



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PostPosted: 20:15 - 22 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chriss wrote:
Slide carbs then.


Maybe not!

I've just been looking at some pictures, I think they are CV carbs with a solid slider.
https://www.zed-parts.com/images/ZP_ultra_sonic/CB250_carbs_1.jpg

Did you totally strip them or just take the float bowls off?

There is a vacuum chamber in the top part of these carbs, the suction of the engine lifts the throttle body and allows the fuel/air to pass through according to how open the butterfly operated by the twistgrip is. It's normally via a rubber diaphragm attached to the throttle body but I seem to recall there being some other arrangement on that type. I've never had dealings with them so I'm unsure what it is.

In any case, probably worth checking it is all moving freely and is undamaged. If there is a diaphragm, treat it with care, they are delicate, any holes or tears and they need to be repaired or replaced.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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GREEN KMX
Derestricted Danger



Joined: 28 Aug 2009
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PostPosted: 08:21 - 23 Sep 2009    Post subject: sometimes stud extractors actually work. Reply with quote

I managed to remove this rounded off gear change sprocket with a square stud extractor without breaking anything. Cool.
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Xenocide
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PostPosted: 12:55 - 23 Sep 2009    Post subject: Re: sometimes stud extractors actually work. Reply with quote

GREEN KMX wrote:
I managed to remove this rounded off gear change sprocket with a square stud extractor without breaking anything. Cool.


What address would you like the medal sending to?
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Rufus
Brolly Dolly



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PostPosted: 13:16 - 23 Sep 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

BLUEX5 wrote:
The pooper dream uses horrific CV carbs which rely on the clearance between the slide and the bore of the carb to provide vacuum lift, hence they are a pile of shit once a bit of wear kicks in. However if it was running before then this might not be your problem.


however i probably knocked something out of whack trying to get the screws out knowing me Neutral i've ordered a new set of carbs anyway and if that doesn't solve it i'm just gonna have to cry all the way to the local mechanics.
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