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"over"-revving

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TechJinx
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PostPosted: 09:45 - 09 Oct 2009    Post subject: "over"-revving Reply with quote

not sure if this is common but when you accelerate hard is it usual for the bike to appear to over-rev.

What I mean is that if I crank the throttle about 75% as quickly as I could then I get normal smooth acceleration but if I'm in second for example and twist full on the revs will jump but it seems to take a while for the engine "pull" to catch up.

So you'll get a jump in the Revs to say 10,000 then despite still being full on throttle they'll then creep back to 7-8000 and you'll feel the bike accelerating and the revs creep back up speeding the bike up.

Is this something fairly common? Sorry if it's explained badly
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YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'T MOVE AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THE DUCT TAPE.
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serlant
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PostPosted: 09:55 - 09 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

That will be the clutch slipping, adjust the cable to the free play specified in the manual, and if it still slips might be time for a new clutch.
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TechJinx
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PostPosted: 10:49 - 09 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

serlant wrote:
That will be the clutch slipping, adjust the cable to the free play specified in the manual, and if it still slips might be time for a new clutch.


Means nothing to me, I'm a technical dunce! Laughing

Is this the kind of thing that would be picked up/fixed on a service as it's due one in a few miles or so?
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bikes: SV650S K5 that is making me do this Very Happy 57 CBR125 RW-7 - sold ; 54 CBR125 - anyone wanna buy a project?

YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'T MOVE AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THE DUCT TAPE.
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Ol
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PostPosted: 10:58 - 09 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

TechJinx wrote:
serlant wrote:
That will be the clutch slipping, adjust the cable to the free play specified in the manual, and if it still slips might be time for a new clutch.


Means nothing to me, I'm a technical dunce! Laughing

Is this the kind of thing that would be picked up/fixed on a service as it's due one in a few miles or so?


Adjusting the Cable MIGHT be included in the service depending on where you take it, although i doubt it. Changing the clutch definately wont be included! The bad news is that it's only going to get worse before you get it fixed !

Cheers
Olly.
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serlant
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PostPosted: 11:19 - 09 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

for free play basically this, but change 3mm to whatever it specifys in your manual.
https://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp276/thump_140/clutchfreeplay.jpg
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Charlie
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PostPosted: 11:45 - 09 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you went to a bike meet I am sure you could get someone there to adjust it (via the adjuster at the top), it really isn't hard. They have the same system on pedal bike brakes.
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Jayy
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PostPosted: 11:57 - 09 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Something I've noticed on my 98 ZX6R is when you accelerate full throttle and it hits about 12k it suddenly bursts a spout of power for a second. Is that just a power valve?
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Coxyzxr
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PostPosted: 13:12 - 09 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

jay-recoil wrote:
Something I've noticed on my 98 ZX6R is when you accelerate full throttle and it hits about 12k it suddenly bursts a spout of power for a second. Is that just a power valve?



Humm... no...

It's either 2 things. Clutch slips then regains or if it's bang on same RPM each time its the "Powerband" term used with trepidation

It's when the ZX6r wakes up, use and abuse it.
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Alexio
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PostPosted: 13:40 - 09 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

As you slowly release your clutch while changing gears it helps to be slowly decreasing your throttle as well anyway so that the two "meet" faster. Sometimes the revs will match where they are supposed to be while the clutch is still partially engaged (slipping) so that as you release the clutch entirely you wont get any of this unpredictable RPM Business anyway. This definitely sounds like a clutch cable issue though. I suggest adjusting it immediately. A kind garage will spend 60 seconds doing it for you most likely.

Hope I've explained that well, I'm not always good at articulating what I mean.
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will never give up his CG. I look at my fuel gauge more as a progress bar than a fuel gauge.
G: With my GSXR I do often effectively use it as a scooter with a clutch in town.
ms51ves3: why does it need 500 miles? Are you teaching it how to be a piston?
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TechJinx
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PostPosted: 13:42 - 09 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers for the reponses guys - I'll try the cable tonight as that looks like a simple fix if thats the problem. Otherwise I'll get her down the garage.

On an unrelated note - upsettingly the first winter glove day of the year for my commute Sad

Andy
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bikes: SV650S K5 that is making me do this Very Happy 57 CBR125 RW-7 - sold ; 54 CBR125 - anyone wanna buy a project?

YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'T MOVE AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THE DUCT TAPE.
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Alexio
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PostPosted: 13:48 - 09 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

TechJinx wrote:
On an unrelated note - upsettingly the first winter glove day of the year for my commute Sad

Andy


Agreed, was absolutely freezing last night and needed my winter gloves for the first time. Better get used to it, on a bike winter is always far too long Thumbs Up
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will never give up his CG. I look at my fuel gauge more as a progress bar than a fuel gauge.
G: With my GSXR I do often effectively use it as a scooter with a clutch in town.
ms51ves3: why does it need 500 miles? Are you teaching it how to be a piston?
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TechJinx
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PostPosted: 13:52 - 09 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

The REALLY upsetting thing will be when I need to put the muffs on the handle bars.....
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bikes: SV650S K5 that is making me do this Very Happy 57 CBR125 RW-7 - sold ; 54 CBR125 - anyone wanna buy a project?

YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'T MOVE AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THE DUCT TAPE.
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Muscle Bike Rider
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PostPosted: 13:57 - 09 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can you adjust the pressure of the clutch leaver here to? mine feels a bit tight / stiff would be nice a bit looser easier, sometimes when stood at lights for a while you gotta keep a tight grip on lever, recently had new clutch cable fitted after it snapped by RAC, guy said it would soften up after a bit of use but it still feels the same.

Ta,

Paul.
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Polo
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PostPosted: 14:12 - 09 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought I had clutch slip on my bike but I actually realised that when I was getting a bit spirited and making really good progress Wink I was actually pulling on the clutch lever a snatch in anticipation of the next gear change.

Conciously take your fingers away from the lever next time and just grip the bar and see if it still does it - before you adjust stuff!!! Thumbs Up
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iooi
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PostPosted: 20:05 - 09 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

A5tra_G wrote:
sometimes when stood at lights for a while you gotta keep a tight grip on lever,.


If waiting at lights for a while then sit in netural Rolling Eyes
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T0MMY
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PostPosted: 11:25 - 10 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Coxyzxr wrote:

It's either 2 things. Clutch slips then regains or if it's bang on same RPM each time its the "Powerband" term used with trepidation


May I be the first?...

That'll be the tension in the powerband releasing. Basically, as the rev counter goes round it tightens up the powerband and then at 12k rpm the tension is suddenly released to add a spurt of power. This is how wheelies are done.

powerband joke no. 21549, copyright T0MMY 2009, all rights reserved
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