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VFR400 Tyga kit respray

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pits
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PostPosted: 09:10 - 13 Oct 2009    Post subject: VFR400 Tyga kit respray Reply with quote

Slightly encouraged to post this here, as I showed some people in the chat room last night.

Long story short, I ended up painting my mates fairing for his VFR400 he had bought, already had the Tyga kit on it, but who ever fitted it/painted it, dear god, frankly a monkey could of done better, created epic amounts of work for me Middle Finger


Cant seem to find the prep photos, but it had a fair few repairs to be done, mostly on the nose, where cracks had started to appear, due to it being such a flimsy kit, I was reluctant to do to much drilling to get rid of the cracking.


It also finally made him find a way of securing his mirrors other than copius amounts ducttape and cable ties Laughing

After all the drilling was done and filling, and sanding, I finally got its very fist coat of primer on...Ever, who ever sprayed it used maybe one or two coats of paint and no primer, I have no idea how it stayed on there, I guess they must of used 2 rattle cans to do the whole thing, 1 white, 1 black


After getting it in highbuild primer mainly even it out, the tank had become an issue, as it seemed no matter what I did, the left hand side of the filler cap area, and the right handside bottom of the tank just kept vapour locking. I scraped all the paint off twice sanded it all back to bare metal, still vapour locked, dont know what the hell was going on, but I eventually got it on there.


Colour scheme was to remain the same, black and white, whilst very simple, it became very tricky to get it all symetrical and lined up, then had masking tape problems, turned out to be a bad batch of tape, the thinners in the paint were melting the glue on the tape, sticking the glue to the paint and the tape not doing much, as it just ended up bleeding through


These seem to be the only pics I can find
Started off arse about tit, as the way it needed painting was black first, which I didnt really want to do, but it would save massive amounts of time in the long run, as he wanted the insides black
https://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/pitslayer/Photo0524.jpg


Here is the bleeding tape problem I kept having

https://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/pitslayer/Photo0525.jpg


After 9 coats of black and 9 coats of white, as it had to be perfect,

https://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/pitslayer/Photo0666.jpg
https://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/pitslayer/Photo0665.jpg

Then it was sand it all back down to get rid of paint lips, and apply 5 coats of a very high build very strong very glossy lacquer
https://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/pitslayer/Photo0687.jpg
https://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/pitslayer/Photo0685.jpg
https://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/pitslayer/Photo0686.jpg


And back on the bike, only on for a day or so, has since been completely flat and polished, but no pics, as my camera on my phone was getting progressively worse, new phone now so will get some final finished pics
https://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/pitslayer/Photo0865.jpg
https://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/pitslayer/Photo0866.jpg
https://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d112/pitslayer/Photo0867.jpg

Only problem being was that he only waited a day before fitting them, so the paint hadn't hardened to what it normally would, and ended up dropping it against a wall, only scuffed it, and somehow this is completely unknown we ended up with a chip on the bottom edge/lip of the tank, strange....


All in all the bike has over 3 litres of paint on it so dont have to wory about the cover wearing the paint off, and has about several billion hours of work in it

Let me know what you think Smile
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Acemastr
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PostPosted: 10:05 - 13 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Second to last pic doesn't look wonderful, looks rather blotchy. tis a nice colour scheme though.
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pits
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PostPosted: 10:13 - 13 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Acemastr wrote:
Second to last pic doesn't look wonderful, looks rather blotchy. tis a nice colour scheme though.

You not read the whole thing? Has since been flatted and polished since that pic, the problem is with the top coat used, because of its nature you have to polish the clear. That paint apart from rattle cans is probably the quickest setting paint in the world.

The issue you get is with high gloss it fills in all the contours of the GRP, and shows this up as you can see in the pic, very little that can be done about it, couple that with paint being able to dry in 4 hour cure, ie you can get it wet in 4 hours with no ill effects, you can flat and polish it in 4 hours if you so wished... As it drys so quick, and takes the contours of the the GRP and shrinks with drying, it ends up with that rippled effect/orange peel, just something we cant get away.

After flatting and polishing its now like glass I just need to get the pics of it and upload them,
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CHR15
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PostPosted: 18:00 - 13 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

what kit did you use to paint it?

looks very good Thumbs Up bet he owed you a few beer tokens after that.
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pits
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PostPosted: 18:07 - 13 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Most of the kit is very specialist stuff, with airless turbines, the black, white and primer was just standard 2k.
Clear again specialist stuff that we import from America



As for owing of beer tokens, I wish, I owed him some money so we wrote off that sum of money, and I did this for him, our group of friends arent big on lending each other money as we know money and mates dont mix, but he helped me out of a tight spot, so I sorted his bike out Smile
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TUG
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PostPosted: 23:17 - 13 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks crap, the front end just doesnt suit. Sorry.
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Acemastr
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PostPosted: 07:40 - 14 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

pitslayer wrote:
Acemastr wrote:
Second to last pic doesn't look wonderful, looks rather blotchy. tis a nice colour scheme though.

You not read the whole thing? Has since been flatted and polished since that pic, the problem is with the top coat used, because of its nature you have to polish the clear. That paint apart from rattle cans is probably the quickest setting paint in the world.

The issue you get is with high gloss it fills in all the contours of the GRP, and shows this up as you can see in the pic, very little that can be done about it, couple that with paint being able to dry in 4 hour cure, ie you can get it wet in 4 hours with no ill effects, you can flat and polish it in 4 hours if you so wished... As it drys so quick, and takes the contours of the the GRP and shrinks with drying, it ends up with that rippled effect/orange peel, just something we cant get away.

After flatting and polishing its now like glass I just need to get the pics of it and upload them,


Ahh i see, sorry i'm a bit naive with painting, i've always gotten the orange peel effect with rattle cans, assumed that was the finished product.
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pits
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PostPosted: 10:25 - 14 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Acemastr wrote:


Ahh i see, sorry i'm a bit naive with painting, i've always gotten the orange peel effect with rattle cans, assumed that was the finished product.


Rattle cans are a pain to get right, really are, a normal 2k clear over this would of given a better aesthetical finish at first, but the stuff I used drys like that, is a pain to work with, but when flat and polished its like glass Smile

Will get some proper finished pics up, when I see him next




edit:messed up quotes
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tutton
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PostPosted: 16:01 - 14 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Look ite,
Im told that unless your using a 2K etch on grp that stonechips etc are more likely to lift off whole patches of paint insted of small chips like normal.
More pics would of been good,
Bit hard to follow Was this all cans,
or Sounds like part of it your talking about 2K in cans, which imo is still shit to work with...
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pits
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PostPosted: 16:27 - 14 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

tutton wrote:
Look ite,
Im told that unless your using a 2K etch on grp that stonechips etc are more likely to lift off whole patches of paint insted of small chips like normal.
More pics would of been good,
Bit hard to follow Was this all cans,
or Sounds like part of it your talking about 2K in cans, which imo is still shit to work with...


No p/o was the one who sprayed it with rattle cans, I used a fully kitted out spray shop with an airless turbine and my tres expensive gun.

GRP and etch shouldn't make a difference never had an issue in well over 6 years of spraying, the high build will have some etch in it aswell, besides if the stone chips can get through that clearcoat it would have to be a large stone it has a hardness of around 7-9H IE it can withstand around 1.5lb steel ball hitting it, and thats not at the 5 odd coats that are on there probably about 1000microns of paint on there lol


I cant find the pics, I have trawled my laptop for them, every folder checked and they have all gone Sad
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tutton
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PostPosted: 17:21 - 14 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ahh right just going by what ive been told by someone whos been making fibreglass and moulds since he was 13.
And ive sprayed and worked in a bodyshop but we never dabbled in fibreglass so was quite intrested in this..
Have been told its alot harder to work with lots of pinholes etc, personally id probably end up spreading a layer of stopper over the lot Laughing
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craigs23
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PostPosted: 20:01 - 14 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

The reflections in the first nose photo don't look bad...Tyga's not my cup of tea though.
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Fnatic
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PostPosted: 20:07 - 14 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

craigs23 wrote:
The reflections in the first nose photo don't look bad...Tyga's not my cup of tea though.


must have been at some point surely...
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pits
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PostPosted: 20:54 - 14 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

tutton wrote:
Ahh right just going by what ive been told by someone whos been making fibreglass and moulds since he was 13.
And ive sprayed and worked in a bodyshop but we never dabbled in fibreglass so was quite intrested in this..
Have been told its alot harder to work with lots of pinholes etc, personally id probably end up spreading a layer of stopper over the lot Laughing


Yep it can be a complete arse to work with, the problem most people have is that they dont prep it right, you have to be meticulous with cleaning and handling, as they hold greases etc really well
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craigs23
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PostPosted: 21:14 - 14 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fnatic wrote:
craigs23 wrote:
The reflections in the first nose photo don't look bad...Tyga's not my cup of tea though.


must have been at some point surely...


Ah...we were all young once....
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Fahd
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PostPosted: 10:59 - 15 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

craigs23 wrote:
The reflections in the first nose photo don't look bad...Tyga's not my cup of tea though.


More of a K-Conversions man? Wink Laughing (somehow, I thought not)

That bike looks pretty good though mate. I have a Honda CBR400 with a similar body-kit...

https://www.bikechatforums.com/files/my_honda_cbr_400rr.jpg

https://www.bikechatforums.com/files/dsc_0027_edit.jpg
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Mystery
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PostPosted: 11:04 - 15 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fahd wrote:


that looks stunning btw nice bike Thumbs Up
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