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Increasing Fuel Efficiency

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Thom
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PostPosted: 12:11 - 05 Nov 2009    Post subject: Increasing Fuel Efficiency Reply with quote

Right, awaiting a new bike and whilst im stuck in uni i thought i'd ask a question.

The new bike is an ER5, generall quite good as a hack, hwoever im wondering if there is a way i can increase fuel efficiency throughout the rev range?

Now im thinking to myself "Create a more complete burn of the fuel" however i cant see how i can do this easily, perhaps ignition advance(start the burn earlier for a longer burn?) or perhaps new cams (Close the inlet sooner and open the exhaust later?). Perhaps it could be as simple as a different style of spark plug or fuel?

Im not necceserily going to do this but it would be interesting to see what's suggested, and if something comes up that i could perhaps sort out maybe ill try it.

P.s running the bike lean isnt an option unfortunately.
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Current Bike: 1996 Yamaha TRX850 (The Japanese-Ducati One).
Previous Bikes: 1990 Honda NSR125 'Rothmans' (The smoking one), 1990 Suzuki GS500e 'Caf? fighter' (The loud one), 1987 Kawasaki GPX400r (The quick one), 1997 XJ600s Diversion (The reliable one), 2000 Kawasaki ER-5 (The spontaneously combustive one)
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Kickstart
The Oracle



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PostPosted: 12:30 - 05 Nov 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

You probably could lean the mixture out a bit to improve consumption. Just don't do it too much. Similarly playing around with the spring on the slide you could probably get it to open more slowly and saving a bit of fuel.

Advancing the timing would only be an option if the fuel could put up with it (ie, high enough octane rating). Likely you would just get a load of detonation. The spark already happens before the piston is at the top (so the first bit of mixture burnt is pretty much wasted anyway).

If you want it really fuel efficient then use a far longer stroke and ignite the fuel far later so all of the burn is useful (you could probably use a far quicker burning fuel and ignite it later as well), and use a large flywheel to smooth things out and effectively store energy. Don't expect it to be fast though.

All the best

Keith
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yen_powell
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PostPosted: 12:46 - 05 Nov 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get rid of any top boxes or panniers, don't wear flappy waterproofs, keep your knees in, keep your tyres pumped up, oil your chain, keep the bike in tune, ride when the traffic is lighter so you don't have to keep start/stopping, plan your filtering so it's a smooth as possible and lose weight.
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el_oso
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PostPosted: 15:03 - 05 Nov 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

changing gearing may help but it will depend on what sort of speed you will be doing. Motorway journeys could be improved quite drastically simply by increasing the gear ratio and dropping the revs. It is very touch and go though as dropping the revs too much will cause more fuel than required to be injected in.
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Alexio
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PostPosted: 16:07 - 05 Nov 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Certainly does depend on how and where you ride it. On certain routes through my town I can increase speed to about 40, clutch in and cruise until my bike hits about 25 and then smoothly re-engage gear to slowly accelerate back to 40. Down hill this works even better. Would definitely depend on the momentum of you bike but this sometimes saves me much fuel when the roads are quiet.
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will never give up his CG. I look at my fuel gauge more as a progress bar than a fuel gauge.
G: With my GSXR I do often effectively use it as a scooter with a clutch in town.
ms51ves3: why does it need 500 miles? Are you teaching it how to be a piston?
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Cigaro
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PostPosted: 16:32 - 05 Nov 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alexio wrote:
Certainly does depend on how and where you ride it. On certain routes through my town I can increase speed to about 40, clutch in and cruise until my bike hits about 25 and then smoothly re-engage gear to slowly accelerate back to 40. Down hill this works even better. Would definitely depend on the momentum of you bike but this sometimes saves me much fuel when the roads are quiet.


You will use a lot more fuel keep accelerating back up to speed than if you just sat in gear and cruised.
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ms51ves3
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PostPosted: 16:34 - 05 Nov 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alexio wrote:
Certainly does depend on how and where you ride it. On certain routes through my town I can increase speed to about 40, clutch in and cruise until my bike hits about 25 and then smoothly re-engage gear to slowly accelerate back to 40. Down hill this works even better. Would definitely depend on the momentum of you bike but this sometimes saves me much fuel when the roads are quiet.


Coasting with the engine engaged uses less fuel than if you have the clutch pulled. Obviously you slow down quicker though.

To get the best out of this you'd want to pull the clutch in and flick the kill switch off and then back on, then just let the clutch out, the bike will start and you can continue riding.
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.
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 18 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: 19:57 - 05 Nov 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could use a friction reducing micro oil like ACTIVE8 or ZX1 (sold in Half*rds) add a table spoon of the stuff to a full tank of petrol, then go for a ten mile ride.

On a bike with a carb you will need to adjust your tickover speed afterwards as the revs will rise.
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Kickstart
The Oracle



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 20:10 - 05 Nov 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

ms51ves3 wrote:
Coasting with the engine engaged uses less fuel than if you have the clutch pulled.


Not so sure on bike with either carbs or fairly crude fuel injection systems. On cars they often cut the injectors totally when the revs are higher and the throttle is shut, hence on those coasting with the engine engaged does use less fuel than pulling the clutch.

All the best

Keith
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 20:11 - 05 Nov 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

romeohotel wrote:
You could use a friction reducing micro oil like ACTIVE8 or ZX1 (sold in Half*rds) add a table spoon of the stuff to a full tank of petrol, then go for a ten mile ride.

On a bike with a carb you will need to adjust your tickover speed afterwards as the revs will rise.


That won't work if the bike has a wet clutch because it will just make the clutch slip.

Also I was under the impression that friction reducers were supposed to be put into the oil, not the fuel. Putting stuff in the fuel which isn't supposed to be in the fuel is very bad as it leans off the mixture.
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Alexio
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PostPosted: 21:09 - 05 Nov 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I swear my town is the hilliest town in England Shocked by certain routes I guess what I meant was;

When you are going down a hill, don't forget to pull in the clutch and cruise!

Of course, you'd lose the fuel efficiency when having to go back up the hills, but at least it would be kind of balanced rather than simply burning more in a hilly area.
____________________
will never give up his CG. I look at my fuel gauge more as a progress bar than a fuel gauge.
G: With my GSXR I do often effectively use it as a scooter with a clutch in town.
ms51ves3: why does it need 500 miles? Are you teaching it how to be a piston?
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P.
Red Rocket



Joined: 14 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: 06:47 - 06 Nov 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

do you seriously pull your clutch in and cruise...
I thought that was a disaster waiting to happen..thus havent really done that.
Only way to really increase fuel economy is to ride more sensible Razz
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.
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 18 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: 09:25 - 06 Nov 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
romeohotel wrote:
You could use a friction reducing micro oil like ACTIVE8 or ZX1 (sold in Half*rds) add a table spoon of the stuff to a full tank of petrol, then go for a ten mile ride.

On a bike with a carb you will need to adjust your tickover speed afterwards as the revs will rise.


That won't work if the bike has a wet clutch because it will just make the clutch slip.

Also I was under the impression that friction reducers were supposed to be put into the oil, not the fuel. Putting stuff in the fuel which isn't supposed to be in the fuel is very bad as it leans off the mixture.


Unlike a teflon based additive, these particular products will not affect a normal wet clutch.

They are added to the fuel to treat the bore, and can be added to the oil to treat any hard bearing surfaces.

The single one off application required (which is 1cc per litre of petrol) is insufficient to cause fueling issues.
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Alexio
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PostPosted: 09:42 - 06 Nov 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

padwaxk88 wrote:
do you seriously pull your clutch in and cruise...
I thought that was a disaster waiting to happen..thus havent really done that.
Only way to really increase fuel economy is to ride more sensible Razz


When I'm running out of petrol, yes I cruise. Otherwise I don't. It makes me feel like I'm doing something to get myself to the next petrol station without running out of my reserve Laughing

The car theory test tells you that cruising is dangerous and should never be done because in a car braking and steering is often engine assisted.

This isn't in the bike theory test because the brakes and steering aren't dependant on the engine even being turned on thankfully. Also, even while I cruise I'm still in the right gear to brake with my engine if needed.
____________________
will never give up his CG. I look at my fuel gauge more as a progress bar than a fuel gauge.
G: With my GSXR I do often effectively use it as a scooter with a clutch in town.
ms51ves3: why does it need 500 miles? Are you teaching it how to be a piston?
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P.
Red Rocket



Joined: 14 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: 13:37 - 06 Nov 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah cool cheers Alexio!
If i recall you are from Hastings?
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Alexio
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PostPosted: 14:36 - 06 Nov 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

padwaxk88 wrote:
Ah cool cheers Alexio!
If i recall you are from Hastings?


Correct. Although I should probably edit what I said slightly. Some big bikes are equiped with ABS which I suspect requires the bike to be turned on in order to work. So if you have ABS, I highly recommend you don't kill your engine and cruise!
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will never give up his CG. I look at my fuel gauge more as a progress bar than a fuel gauge.
G: With my GSXR I do often effectively use it as a scooter with a clutch in town.
ms51ves3: why does it need 500 miles? Are you teaching it how to be a piston?
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