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Electrical work needed - what's a good price?

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Mr Calendar



Joined: 14 Jun 2004
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PostPosted: 12:26 - 20 Oct 2009    Post subject: Electrical work needed - what's a good price? Reply with quote

Need to get an old fuse box replaced.
I always seem to feel I get ripped off by contractors in these things.
I wondered what was a ballpark price for this work?

That is removal, supply of replacement and fitting.

I was thinking it may be cheaper to source the stuff myself and pay for removal and fitting, but it's an area I'm not that familiar with.

Any other advice appreciated.

Thanks in anticipation Thumbs Up
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jayrhammond
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PostPosted: 12:33 - 20 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

its not that cheap, to fit a fuse board you need a testing certificate aswell so you will be paying more for the mans "expertise", i couldnt give you an estimate because areas are different prices for some strange reason, but at least £100+, i would be interested to see what you have been quoted.
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Mr Calendar



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PostPosted: 12:38 - 20 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks.
Need the thing replaced because of the big 30amp fuse.
It's being used for the shower and has blown.
I suspect it's been overheating for ages as the holder just crumbles and the socket is black.
I also suspect that the fuse value is too low for the shower. I guess that fitter didn't check, which is why I'm wary*

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* yes I know shouldn't treat everyone the same after one bad experience but it does, as I said, make me cautious, which isn't a bad thing.
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The Shaggy D.A.
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PostPosted: 12:50 - 20 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sure you need the whole fuse box replaced? When my old shower burnt out, I just had a separate, higher amperage feed put in, with it's own RCD.
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Mr Calendar



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PostPosted: 12:55 - 20 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Shaggy D.A. wrote:
Sure you need the whole fuse box replaced? When my old shower burnt out, I just had a separate, higher amperage feed put in, with it's own RCD.

Good point well made.
I like your thinking, more than one way to skin a cat and all that.

So, to return to the original query, how much for just that?
Maybe difficult as if shower burnt out you'd have had the job lot done.
As far as I know shower should still be ok (anyone betting if I'm tried to be sold a new one?).

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The Shaggy D.A.
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PostPosted: 13:28 - 20 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, bit of a bugger to price just that part as when the shower died we decided it was time for a new bathroom, so it was done as part of the whole job.
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WildGoose
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PostPosted: 19:01 - 20 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a fuse box replaced while I ripped my kitchen out, it cost me £675 parts + labour. Basically 1 days work, although he ran over into the following day, because he turned up late and had to make a trip out for parts (typical tradesman Rolling Eyes ).

Can see the old box here, in a crappy position near under the taps.

https://www.bikechatforums.com/files/newplaster.jpg

Had to install a waterproof junction box there to bring it up to code, then chase it up to a new position on the wall, hidden in a cupboard, a far more convenient location, also uses the new MCB breakers rather than the old pull out fuse type circuit breakers.

He also chased out the wall and installed two new sockets for the kithen on a separate circuit and did a bit of earth bonding, boiler/pipes etc. So a straight fusebox change will be a bit cheaper and quicker, but most of the cost is the labour time.

New stuff.,..

https://www.bikechatforums.com/files/newelectrics.jpg
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panrider_uk
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PostPosted: 21:53 - 20 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

£675 just for the electrical work? Ouch.

I've got a bulder coming in a few weeks to fit my new kitchen. Been quoted £8-900 to make up and fit the cabinets (20 of them) + cornice and pelmet, new induction hob, oven, extract, fit worktops, plumb sink and fit new sockets.

Mark
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firefox
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PostPosted: 01:06 - 22 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

150 quid including him buying the wylex, but im now qualified so can do my self, there is a trick but ill email you about it.
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Sparks!
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PostPosted: 18:11 - 22 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Last private fuseboard I done was £350 cash for supply, fit + certificate.

Not sure what my company would charge at the min, but gives you an idea.

p.s as far as private work goes.. I'm not cheap! but you get what ya pay for and I've had no complaints Wink
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Sparks!
Sir Tart-a-lot



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PostPosted: 18:13 - 22 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

panrider_uk wrote:
£675 just for the electrical work? Ouch.

I've got a bulder coming in a few weeks to fit my new kitchen. Been quoted £8-900 to make up and fit the cabinets (20 of them) + cornice and pelmet, new induction hob, oven, extract, fit worktops, plumb sink and fit new sockets.

Mark


Doubt he's making any money then if that's all he's charging! and/or he's a bit of a cowboy Laughing
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panrider_uk
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PostPosted: 21:36 - 22 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sparks! wrote:
panrider_uk wrote:
£675 just for the electrical work? Ouch.

I've got a bulder coming in a few weeks to fit my new kitchen. Been quoted £8-900 to make up and fit the cabinets (20 of them) + cornice and pelmet, new induction hob, oven, extract, fit worktops, plumb sink and fit new sockets.

Mark


Doubt he's making any money then if that's all he's charging! and/or he's a bit of a cowboy Laughing


He's fitted my niece's and my sister's kitchens and they're both pleased.

I think he's charging low rates while business is a bit slow.

Mark
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Mr Calendar



Joined: 14 Jun 2004
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PostPosted: 11:25 - 23 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the replies.
I've been offline for a few days with a dodgy wireless hub.
Applying the necessary ointment and appears to be clearing up Very Happy

It's not causing much hassle at the moment as bathroom needs re-grouting anyway and the missus' prefers a bath.

In the process of 'phoning around for quotes.
I love dealing with tradesmen, it's like some of them don't actually want the work and to take money off me Rolling Eyes

When I get some figures and/or have the work done I'll post so you can share my horror or relief.

Thumbs Up
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Robby
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PostPosted: 15:40 - 23 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I was getting assorted bits of work done I used www.mybuilder.com

Means I don't have to spend ages talking to tradesmen on the phone. It has a feedback system too.
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MarJay
But it's British!



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PostPosted: 18:09 - 24 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got my ancient fusebox replaced with an RCD protected wonder, and all of the earth bonding re done at the same time for £300.

But my cousin runs an electrical contractor company so I got it on the cheap. About half price by my reckoning.
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amnesia
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PostPosted: 21:17 - 25 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

WildGoose wrote:
...


Bit of a derail...sorry but...


A professional did that? - I thought that at the very least 'good practice' says the cables should be vertical from sockets etc. so people in the future 'know' where any cables are and can safely hit nails into walls without worrying about getting a new hair-do.
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WildGoose
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PostPosted: 00:33 - 26 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Possibly? I'm no electrician.

However, the horizontal cables in the pic are visible on the wall surface, they weren't chased into the wall at that level because they are now hidden by kitchen cabinets.

All the ones that are hidden in the walls and plastered over (the ones with the trunking) are vertical.
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Speedy3
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PostPosted: 09:23 - 27 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try www.MyHammer.co.uk

People bid for the job, and you can see how they've been rated for what work they've done before and also any qualifications they have, have been verified. You should get a few people bidding and a very competitive quote Smile
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steven_191
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PostPosted: 17:15 - 28 Oct 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

im an electrician.

id say the current price is around £400. plus or minus depending on how much work there is. although if its a private job in someones spare time it'll be cheaper. remember though that contractors should also be giving you install certificates and maybe test certificates if your having that done too (normally about £150ish for a 3bed house)

you could buy the parts for less than £100, thats a split load board so you have RCD protection for your sockets, and all of the MCBs and main breaker and RCD. you normally would get a selection that suites pretty much any house but extra MCBs for maybe £10 each.

if you go for something like Wylex, Crabtree, they are fairly good quality and fairly cheap. if you go for MEM or MK you could easily pay double although they are much better quality. not that it'll matter to you as you probably wont use them.

check out this bad boy
https://www.screwfix.com/prods/80908/Electrical-Supplies/Consumer-Units/Wylex-Consumer-Units/WYLEX-10-Way-Fully-Insulated-Dual-RCD-Consumer-Unit?ts=49615

i fitted this at our old house and its was more than enough and cheap.
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Cigaro
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PostPosted: 13:16 - 03 Nov 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Isn't it legal to do the work yourself as long as you have it checked by a professional?

Might not be, I'm just wondering.
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hmmmnz
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PostPosted: 10:54 - 24 Nov 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

TheBassJunky wrote:
Isn't it legal to do the work yourself as long as you have it checked by a professional?

Might not be, I'm just wondering.


yep perfectly legal,
infact you dont even need to get it checked,
the householder can do all his own wiring,

which is kind of fucked up, but, as long as you have an idea, and you are prepared to face the consequences if you fuck it up, then sweet by me,

when i was in scotland, i used to do fusebox replacements
everything included for 250quid cash
good deal for the client and i'd make almost 200 quid,
and it would only take me an hour or so,

go on gumtree and see if anyone is advertising
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tutton
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PostPosted: 15:07 - 25 Nov 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can do it for yourself but you have to send off to building control and have proof of your competancy to do it yourself.

It is possible as said to wire it yourself, then get it tested and inspected before commision but i think most electricians wouldnt want to do that as theres alot more potential labour in the installation itself.
Bear in mind if you do it yourself your accountable say if it kills somebody who comes to your house, you will go to court for industrial manslaughter i think it is, The only thing that can be used in your favour is wiring it to BS7671.
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unitybiker
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PostPosted: 03:51 - 02 Dec 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

nice place for wires and water pipes. just a few points.showers need the extra thicky cable the same sort that is used on the electric cooker socket.A cooker or shower should have its own supply and cannot be wired into any other circuit without a fire risk.You could put your own fbox in and wire all the old wiring in but you have a problem with the 'tails' .these are the live and neutral thick power wires that go to thefusebox from the meter then to the substation.Unless you remove the big big leckyboard fuse then these wires are live,so youll have to leave them dangling somewhere while you fit the new box and wiring ,very dodgy.If you remove the big fuse the elecky board could have your bollocks.if you do'nt remove it then you are taking a big risk ,this fuse will not blow if you have an accdent ,you will only stop frying when the elecky board go to the subsation to turn off the whole street .If your work is done for the morgage people or on a grant it has to be inspected and tested and a certificate is issused .If you do'nt use an elecky cooker but have the correct wiring and cooker socket you can use this circuit as connection for your shower.
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panrider_uk
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PostPosted: 09:42 - 02 Dec 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unitybiker, could you break your posts up into paragraphs?

They're hard to read when done as a solid block of text.

Thanks

Mark
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Sparks!
Sir Tart-a-lot



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PostPosted: 18:12 - 02 Dec 2009    Post subject: Reply with quote

unitybiker wrote:
nice place for wires and water pipes. just a few points.showers need the extra thicky cable the same sort that is used on the electric cooker socket.A cooker or shower should have its own supply and cannot be wired into any other circuit without a fire risk.You could put your own fbox in and wire all the old wiring in but you have a problem with the 'tails' .these are the live and neutral thick power wires that go to thefusebox from the meter then to the substation.Unless you remove the big big leckyboard fuse then these wires are live,so youll have to leave them dangling somewhere while you fit the new box and wiring ,very dodgy.If you remove the big fuse the elecky board could have your bollocks.if you do'nt remove it then you are taking a big risk ,this fuse will not blow if you have an accdent ,you will only stop frying when the elecky board go to the subsation to turn off the whole street .If your work is done for the morgage people or on a grant it has to be inspected and tested and a certificate is issused .If you do'nt use an elecky cooker but have the correct wiring and cooker socket you can use this circuit as connection for your shower.


Why do people try to give advice on things they clearly have no idea about? You'll end up getting someone killed!

Anyone considering electrical work please ignore unitybikers post and call in a pro Rolling Eyes
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