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hayabusa clutch problem

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psalliss
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 20 Apr 2010
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PostPosted: 18:57 - 20 Apr 2010    Post subject: hayabusa clutch problem Reply with quote

ive got a k8 hayabusa with 6000 miles on the clock and full history and have been experiencing problems with the clutch for last month or so where it has become stiffer and harder to pull in plus i can let the clutch lever fully out in 1st gear and the clutch is still enaged. this is more prominent when it is cold.
the dealer reckons the clutch has gone and will need replacing is that normal for a 6000 miles bike??

cheers
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Kaph
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Joined: 03 Oct 2009
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PostPosted: 19:00 - 20 Apr 2010    Post subject: Re: hayabusa clutch problem Reply with quote

psalliss wrote:
ive got a k8 hayabusa with 6000 miles on the clock and full history and have been experiencing problems with the clutch for last month or so where it has become stiffer and harder to pull in plus i can let the clutch lever fully out in 1st gear and the clutch is still enaged. this is more prominent when it is cold.
the dealer reckons the clutch has gone and will need replacing is that normal for a 6000 miles bike??

cheers


Eh, clutch shouldn't need replacing after 6k miles. Sure the cables not just gone? Although your dealer knows far more than I do.

When you say fully out, do you mean fully in? So it's not disengaging?
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psalliss
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PostPosted: 19:06 - 20 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

thats what i thought. ive no idea to be honest i wondered if it was the fluid needing changing as its to thick hence gets better when bike warms.

by fully out i mean i can pull the lever in (towards bars) and select 1st then let it fully out and gear is still engaged
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TUG
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Joined: 12 May 2007
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PostPosted: 19:15 - 20 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clutch plates from alot of wear and tear and user neglect? To check takes less than 10 mins, bike on side stand, clutch casing off and the 5 or 6 bolts off pressure plate off and check the friction plates, if worn, would suggest your in need of new ones to fix your disengaging problems.
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psalliss
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PostPosted: 19:46 - 20 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

the dealer did that today and he said the plates are fine and were moving ok therefore needed clutch.

no neglect it is fully services and not ridden any harder than the average rider.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 20:10 - 20 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your dealer is full of it. The Hayabusa clutch is one of the strongest put into a bike, can handle 4x the power of a stock engine and usually last well past 50,000 miles on the original clutch.

The cure for this is not difficult, al you need to do is clean the slave cylinder:

You need to remove the sprocket cover on the left hand side. Remove the left fairing for access and un-bolt the cover. You should be able to get it off without removing the gear change arm (just) but if you can't then put a mark on it with tip-ex or a permanent marker so it goes back on the same spline to save you lining it up later.

Once you have the bolts out pull the cover off. You'll see a steel rod in front of the sprocket poking out of the engine. It'll be covered in black gungy horribleness. Pull it out, clean it up, put it back in again. A small amount of oil might dribble out.

The slave cylinder is mounted on the cover and it'll now be hanging by the hydraulic hose. Look inside the cover and you'll find the same crap all over that, and covering the piston. Clean everything insode the cover with de-greaser and a 2" paintbrush that you've cut the bristles down to 15mm long. Now pump out the piston using the clutch lever using something to catch the fluid that escapes (an up-turned dustbin lid is good). Clean the piston thoroughly and then you can replace it in the cylinder. Push it all the way home.

Now you can replace everything and bleed the clutch.
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andys675
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Joined: 08 Feb 2007
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PostPosted: 20:57 - 20 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
Your dealer is full of it. The Hayabusa clutch is one of the strongest put into a bike, can handle 4x the power of a stock engine and usually last well past 50,000 miles on the original clutch.

The cure for this is not difficult, al you need to do is clean the slave cylinder:

You need to remove the sprocket cover on the left hand side. Remove the left fairing for access and un-bolt the cover. You should be able to get it off without removing the gear change arm (just) but if you can't then put a mark on it with tip-ex or a permanent marker so it goes back on the same spline to save you lining it up later.

Once you have the bolts out pull the cover off. You'll see a steel rod in front of the sprocket poking out of the engine. It'll be covered in black gungy horribleness. Pull it out, clean it up, put it back in again. A small amount of oil might dribble out.

The slave cylinder is mounted on the cover and it'll now be hanging by the hydraulic hose. Look inside the cover and you'll find the same crap all over that, and covering the piston. Clean everything insode the cover with de-greaser and a 2" paintbrush that you've cut the bristles down to 15mm long. Now pump out the piston using the clutch lever using something to catch the fluid that escapes (an up-turned dustbin lid is good). Clean the piston thoroughly and then you can replace it in the cylinder. Push it all the way home.

Now you can replace everything and bleed the clutch.


+1

workmate had the same problem on his SV1000, same symptoms, Suzuki replaced the slave cylinder with a modified unit under warranty
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 21:09 - 20 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unless you drag race it then your dealer is a twat, try as above first sounds very plausible Mr. Green
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temeluchus
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PostPosted: 21:20 - 20 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:

The cure for this is not difficult, al you need to do is clean the slave cylinder:


+2
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psalliss
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PostPosted: 14:34 - 21 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for all the advice. its just been dropped off at the dealer so will have to wait and see. hopefully wont be too expensive.

i asked the local garage where i had it booked in who siad that it was the clutch that needed replacing if it needed just a fluid change and they were adament that it was the clutch. so will have to wait and see.
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 15:09 - 21 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

It can't be the clutch plates, not after 6k miles unless they is something massively wrong with them or the clutch has been slipping since new.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 17:20 - 21 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

psalliss wrote:
thanks for all the advice. its just been dropped off at the dealer so will have to wait and see. hopefully wont be too expensive.

i asked the local garage where i had it booked in who siad that it was the clutch that needed replacing if it needed just a fluid change and they were adament that it was the clutch. so will have to wait and see.


Don't let them change the clutch. I have never known one need changing and I know dozens of owners including dragracers and landspeed racers and I know the model of bike inside-out.

All that needs doing is to clean the slave cylinder. If the garage say it's anythng else go and get your bike because they either don't know enough to do the work competently or are deliberately trying to stiff you for a part you don't need..
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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psalliss
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PostPosted: 14:35 - 22 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

dealer has just called and it was as many of you said the slave cylinder was covered in gunk and just needed taking out and cleaning up. my rear brake was also siezed and covered in gunk so they cleaned that off as well.
only cost £90 which was a relief.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 16:15 - 22 Apr 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fair enough price I think, the rear brake can be a bugger to sort out if those pins are seized.

Well done in getting it sorted Thumbs Up
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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