Taking old chain off

[moto]

I have bought a bigger back sprocket, smaller front sprocket and fitted them to my XT600.
I also bought a bigger DID Xring chain.

Having never done this before I did not think how to get the old chain off.
I want if possible to be able to use it again if I put the standard sprockets back on again.

How do I get the chain off, with a chain splitter?

Halfords only have a bicycle chain splitter for £8.99, not sure if it will be man enough for the job.
Or maybe there is another technique for chain removal without the special tool?

[Paxovasa]

To take the old chain off, just use a angle grinder
____________________
Suzuki GSF600 K3 (in the fastest colour, black).

[Walloper]

Pull the swing arm off.

A chain splitter will cost you about £50
Or take it to a bike shop.
____________________
W-ireless A-rtificial L-ifeform L-imited to O-bservation P-eacekeeping and E-fficient R-epair

[stinkwheel]

I should point out that motorbike chains are not the same as bicycle chains. The ends of the pins are rivetted over. Once you remove a link, it is not a good idea to put them back in again like you can do with a bicycle chain.

They are normally supplied either endless, with a split link that is held on by a spring clip or with a rivet link (aka a "soft link") which you press on then deform the ends of using a special tool.

So.

If it has a split link. Take the split link off using a pair of pliers and a screwdriver to prise the spring clip off.

If it has a rivet link, you'll need either a chain splitter or to grind/cut the rivet link off.

To rejoin it afterwards, you would need either a new rivet link or a split link. Importantly, it would need to be for the same make of chain because they don't all use the same pin diameters.

A bicycle chain splitter is almost certainly not man enough for the job. Any bicycle ones that were would be so expensive that you wouldn't want to risk breaking them on a motorbike chain.

A proper motorbike chain tool will cost in the region of £65+.

I would strongly recommend against using a split link to join your chain except as a temporary measure to take it to a bike shop/mates house to have a rivet link fitted. That is however my personal oppinion, I hate the bloody things. Others use them and appear to have no problems.

There is also another way. Drop the swingarm and remove the chain in one piece. This may not necessarily be as much of a pain in the backside as it first appears.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[moto]

I would grind it off but it's still a good chain and I want to be able to use it again.

Taking the swing arm off is an option I suppose.

Might be worth investing an a splitter though.

£30 best price I found so far for cutter/rivetting tool 520 chains.

edit, found cheaper one for upto 530.

https://cgi.ebay.co.uk/STANDARD-MOTORCYCLE-CHAIN-BREAKER-TOOL-MOST-CHAINS-/220597017187?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item335c9b5a63

[stinkwheel]

[moto]

Thanks for that detailed post stinkwheel.

My new chain did come with a new joining link, the rivet type ZJ with 4 x rings.

I could not find the split link on the old chain, so thanks for the tip. I'll take a closer look.
I also did not realise that even if I used a chain splitter I would ruin the link so I might aswell (if I can find the joining link) try to grind it off) or look at taking the swing arm off.

If I manage to get the old one off, do I need a special tool to fit the new connecting link or do I just pust it together with pliers?

[Paxovasa]

[moto]

Yes the new link came with a little sachet of lubricant too.

I have just been to the garage and pulled the chain round a few times but could not find the connecting link, I looked on both sides of the chain, how odd!

So I will read up on how to take the swing arm off, but I still need to buy a chain splitter in order to fint the new connecting link?

On the chain box it says I need a DID KM500 cutting and rivetting tool to press fit the connecting link so I guess thos one is ok. £165 or £40 on ebay.

https://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Motorcycle/Chain_And_Sprockets/Chain_Tools/D.I.D_ZJ_Link_Riveting_Cutting_Tool/409/3509

[RichP]

Just cut through the bugger, back in the day when I couldn't afford decent tools I remember having to cut through the split link on an SR125 chain with a blunt junior hacksaw, no fun at all

[moto]

Yeah, I'm more concerned with fixing the new chain connecting link properly.
It says to use a DID KM500 rivet tool.

Unless someone comes up with a good alternative I will order the tool.
Some things are worth doing properly.

[stinkwheel]

It might have an endless chain on it which is why you can't find a rivet link.

That rivetting tool seems pretty cheap but looks quite robust and compact in design and it is the correct tool for the job you want.

It should split your current chain. You can split it on any link but as said, you'd need the correct brand of rivet link to re-join it again. I said to look for the rivet link because it makes sense to split it there if one is fitted.

If you're happy to be using DID chains, I'd go with that one. I suspect it will ONLY join DID chains though. If you're going to use other brands of chain, you might want a more universal tool.

The very best one is a whale.

I use a hein gericke own brand one that cost £65. Does the job fine.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[TUG]

You will need 1) angle grinder, 2) big chisel, 3) Decent weight hammer.

Ok step one, as the chain is on the sprocket grind the 2 links on the plates untill the plate is flat and shiney (Do not go too mad, it takes only a few seconds to acheive what i'm describing, doing it for too long or too much pressure will weld the links into the plate)

Now, take your chisel and place it behind the plate and hit hard then soft you will see the plate starting to come off the links. tap to remove the plate, if you hit it off with force it will fly and bounce off what ever is in its way be it your car or eye.

if replacing the chain for a new one, use the link as a split link and join your new chain to the old one and pull the old one while you feed the new one on then link up with your new split link.

If the split link is a clip type the chisel and hammer and even the grinder is unnessicary but the feeding the new chain onto the wheel is the same. Trust me it takes 10 mins.
____________________
Haz ER-5, innit!

[Walloper]

Using the rear sprocket as a holding tool comes with a risk of bending or breaking teeth whilst Malkie-ing with the big hammer.

Trust me.. Unless you intend to make a habit of changing chains on bike the splitter is not an economic investment. Chains should last a couple of years or more when looked after properly. And as Stinkers says look at £60 + as they must be robust to deal with the pressures involved in use.
A cheap one may only last a few pins and the anvils chip or mash.

A bike shop will take about a tenner to fit a chain on for you.
____________________
W-ireless A-rtificial L-ifeform L-imited to O-bservation P-eacekeeping and E-fficient R-epair

[TUG]

I've not bent a sprocket yet as when hitting the chisel into the links the pressure is not into the wheel, rather onto the sprocket as if you was sitting with the wheel inbetween your legs forwards.
____________________
Haz ER-5, innit!

[yen_powell]

This was my chain swap a few days ago.
A light touch with an angle grinder on the pin you want to remove.
https://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b165/yen_powell/chain%20swap/P1040339.jpg
Then use one of these tools to push the pin out. I used the medium sized pin, takes a few seconds.
https://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b165/yen_powell/chain%20swap/P1040345.jpg
Swap the chains over and use the rear sprocket to hold it together.
https://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b165/yen_powell/chain%20swap/P1040350.jpg
Open the little bag the rivet link comes in, put two x-rings onto the link.
https://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b165/yen_powell/chain%20swap/P1040355.jpg
Open the little bag of grease and lube up the pins (ooer)
https://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b165/yen_powell/chain%20swap/P1040357.jpg
Put the link through the chain, a dab of grease then the other x-rings will stay on the pins. Place the side plate on and use the same tool to press it on till it's level with the other side plates.
https://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b165/yen_powell/chain%20swap/P1040363.jpg
Same tool (with a different pin in)will then open up and spread the ends of the rivet link pins.
https://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b165/yen_powell/chain%20swap/P1040368.jpg

This is the old chain and the new chain together. About 4mm stretch in over 35,000 miles, DID 525VM X ring. Ignore the odd link sticking out further, thats the old rivet link after cutting.
https://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b165/yen_powell/chain%20swap/P1040349.jpg
____________________
Blackmail is a nasty word........but not as nasty as phlegm!
XT1200Z and a DR350 in bits

[moto]

Thanks for the replies and pictures. Pictures really make things clearer.

It was driving me mad looking for the connecting link but I am pretty sure it must be an endless chain fitted from new.

I do have a small angle grinder, I will buy a metal wheel for it this morning. I have a chisel and lump hammer.

So as it is endless I can choose any link and grind down two of the pins level with the plate and use the KM500 rivet tool (ordering this morning so probably wont get it until Tuesday) to push the pin out and seperate the chain.

Use the same tool to open rivets up level with other plates.
My new chain has a connecting link just like in the pictures.

That tool gets good reviews, it's a copy but apparently a sturdy build.

I am miles from any motorcycle shops so want to do this myself if possible.

[Kickstart]

Hi

The Ebay link to the splitting tool shows a styleI have tried before. Worked OK on 520 chains on 125s, but on a HD chain it just snapped rather than pushing the rivet through.

Some bikes taking the swinging arm out isn't that difficult. Also gives you the easy opportunity to greases the suspension linkages while is is apart.

There are 2 common kinds of rivet link (plus a 3rd kind which uses some kind of shear bolt to peen over the end). The soft type shown on yen_powells post which are not too difficult. The other type is just like a normal chain link, and most riveting tools will not do them. Quite likely it is this 2nd style that was used on the chain that is currently on the bike.

All the best

Keith
____________________
Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[Walloper]

[moto]

I was not able to get the DID KM500 cutting and rivetting tool on the chain while the chain was on the sprocket like yen did because it is a different design.
So it made things a bit fiddly. I decided to cut the old connecting plate with the angle grinder.

Got the new chain on, greased the connecting link and used the other end of the cutting pin to push the plate onto the rivets so that the plate is flush with the others.
This apparently should open up the rivets too but they don't seem very opened up to me so I am paranoid that the chain will come apart. I assume the opened up rivets are all that's keeping the plate on.

[yen_powell]

Actually they look plenty opened out. It doesn't take much to make it safe, remember the load of the chain turning isn't trying to push the pins out.
____________________
Blackmail is a nasty word........but not as nasty as phlegm!
XT1200Z and a DR350 in bits

[Walloper]